All Things Iceland Jewells Chambers

Where Iceland's Loch Ness Monster Lives

Lagarfljot, nestled in eastern Iceland, is not just a lake but a river channel flowing from the majestic Vatnajokull glacier to the sea. This secluded area carries a mysterious aura, providing fertile ground for local folklore.Visitors from the east of Iceland or those who have journeyed to Reykjavik might share tales of a monstrous inhabitant lurking in the murky depths of the lake, reminiscent of Scotland’s famous Loch Ness monster.This creature, known as Lagarfljotsormur, a name that challenges even the bravest linguist, translates to "the Lagarfljot worm." Reported sightings by locals have captured this enigmatic being on film, where it appears as an elusive, moving shape beneath the water's surface.

How Lagarfljótsormur Came to Be

According to legend, the origins of this creature stem from a young girl’s encounter with greed. Gifted a gold ring by her mother, she sought advice on how to maximize its value. Her mother relayed a local myth: placing a worm on gold would make the gold multiply.The girl, hoping to increase her wealth, locked a worm in a chest with the ring. Contrary to her hopes, the worm grew exponentially. Overcome with fear upon discovering the worm’s transformation, she hurled the chest into the lake.Since that day, the creature, resembling a giant sea snake, has surfaced sporadically, captured in fleeting video glimpses that stoke the fires of legend and debate. To some, these images are proof of its existence; to others, they are mere fragments of myth. The true nature of Lagarfljotsormur remains shrouded in mystery, its legend undiminished by time.

Random Fact of the Episode

There have been numerous people that claim to have seen this giant worm and there was even a video that came out once that was said to be footage of it.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Lagarfljótsormur - the Lagarfljot worm

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Have you ever imagined swimming between two continents, touching the jagged edges of the earth’s crust beneath crystal-clear water? I had the unforgettable experience of snorkeling in Silfra Fissure, located in the heart of Thingvellir National Park, Iceland.This unique adventure is available all year round, and whether you visit during the chilly embrace of December or the milder days of April, like I did, it’s an exhilarating experience not to be missed.Arctic Adventures is a premier travel company in Iceland, offering a wide array of day and multi-day tours that showcase the breathtaking natural beauty of this volcanic island.From snorkeling and glacier hiking to exploring the eruptive landscapes, they ensure a memorable and safe adventure for all. I’ve partnered with them for this post, and by using my code Iceland10, you can save 10% on any of their tours. Check out their offerings at adventures.is and plan your next epic journey!

What is Silfra Fissure in Thingvellir National Park in Iceland?



Silfra Fissure is a remarkable rift formed between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This gap widens slightly each year, filled with glacial meltwater that is filtered through underground lava for nearly a century before it emerges as some of the clearest and freshest water on earth. Snorkeling here, you are literally floating between continents, in water visibility that extends up to 100 meters (about 328 feet), making it one of the top dive sites in the world.

My Arctic Adventure Begins



My journey began in the historic Thingvellir National Park, just about an hour’s drive from Reykjavik. I chose to drive myself to the meeting point, parking in Lot 5 and walking a short distance to where Arctic Adventures had set up. It was a brisk 10 degrees Celsius in April—a perfect day for snorkeling.After a quick registration and waiver signing, the team helped us suit up. We were advised to wear thin thermal layers and thick wool socks under provided thick onesie thermal suits. Over these, they layered us into snug dry suits complete with gloves, a dry suit material face mask, snorkel mask, and fins.Given the water temperature hovers around 2-3 degrees Celsius, these dry suits were crucial for keeping our core body temperatures stable. And yes, take advantage of the restrooms before you suit up—it’s a lot easier!

The Snorkeling Experience in Silfra Fissure



The walk to the water’s edge was brief, and entering the water was seamless. Visibility was phenomenal; we could see the divers below us looking as if they were hovering just feet away due to the clarity of the water. A soft current gently pulled us through the fissure, meaning we could enjoy the surreal surroundings without much effort.The guide even snapped photos during our adventure, which were later available for download—truly epic shots that captured the ethereal blue of the waters, which are so pure you can drink from them.

Warmth After the Chill

Post-snorkel, we were treated to hot chocolate or tea and cookies, a welcome treat that helped warm us from the inside out. While the dry suits did an excellent job overall, my hands did feel the chill, especially my left one, which got uncomfortably cold. Fortunately, the sunny weather helped in warming up quickly once we were out of the water

Overall Impressions

Despite the minor chill, the experience was nothing short of magical. Snorkeling at Silfra with Arctic Adventures was a highlight of my adventures in Iceland—a truly unique experience where you can float between two worlds. It’s something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Iceland, no matter the season.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

How Rusty "The Brown One" Became a Ghost

Rusty is a boy that is the main character of this story. According to the legend, he was 16 years old in the late 1700s in Iceland, and one day is he was out walking during a bad storm. Unfortunately, Rusty only had rags on and it was hard for him to find shelter.At one point he finally found a farm, knocked on the door and asked the farmer if he can stay there until the storm had passed. To Rusty’s surprise, the farmer turned him away. Rusty decided to continue on walking in the storm and sadly he ended up drowning in a large body of water.After he died, I guess his ghost made the choose to come back and haunt the farmer tha denied him shelter on that fatal night. However, he didn‘t just haunt the farmer. He haunted the family of the farmer for generations. So, if anything went wrong it was blamed on Rusty, the Brown One.Some examples include marriages not working out, farm equipment breaking, things going missing and so on. Apparently, Rusty‘s ghost was not satisfied with just haunting the family because it‘s said that he started to haunt travelers as well on the south coast.

Rusty Formed a "Ghost Gang"

A young woman that died in a similar way to Rusty ended up joining Rusty as a ghost to haunt travelers. In an even weirder twist to the story, the ghosts of Rusty and the young somehow caused the death of another person. This individual also became a ghost and joined their ghost gang to haunt people. If you plan to travel along Iceland‘s South Coast, know that there is a chance that you might be haunted by this trio of ghosts.

Random Fact of the Episode

Ghost stories are very popular in Icelandic folklore. Every region has a plethora of stories about ghosts, mostly people who we might consider to be wronged in some way, who come back to haunt people. I have some fascinating ones to share in the near future, so keep your eye out for that.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Ghost – draugur

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

This is the third response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.

1. Should I exchange a small amount of currency before I leave? I have heard that Iceland is a cashless society, but I am thinking about tour guide tips or random purchases.- Christina

Iceland is not yet a cashless society, but we are certainly heading quickly in that direction. It isn’t necessary to take out cash in the local currency because debit and credit cards are the preferred method of payment. Also, tipping is not expected or encouraged because companies pay their employees livable wages for their work. You can, of course, take out cash to tip your guide or make random purchases if you prefer to pay that way but that’s up to you because it is not required.

2. Hi, I have another question! You wear such beautiful Icelandic sweaters on your Instagram. Where should I shop when I come in the spring? Somewhere that has really nice ones and doesn’t jack up the prices for tourists? - Alison

Kolaportið is flea market by the old harbor that is only open during weekends. There are some vendors there that are selling handmade Icelandic sweaters for a decent price.Another place is the Handknitting association of Iceland. They have two locations in Reykjavík and all of their sweaters are handknit in the country. One helpful tip is to make sure you get the appropriate form at the store to get the 24% VAT (Value added tax) back at the airport when you leave the country. Iceland has that tax included in the price but they refund it for tourists on certain items.

3. "Hi Jewells,

I have recently discovered your podcast, and have been binge listening to episodes to prepare for my upcoming trip in May! ( I am so excited!) I am learning so much, and I appreciate hearing about your experiences! Thank you!

You mentioned that eating in restaurants is quite pricey in Iceland for a variety of reasons, including allowing restaurant owners to be able to pay their employees a living wage. Is it still customary to leave a tip for waitstaff? If so , is the recommnded amount the same as the US? (20-25%)

Thank you for taking the time to read my question." - Vickie



The great news is that tipping is not part of the culture in Iceland, so you don’t have to factor in any % to your bill. This applies in every place, including cafes.

4. Hi Jewells! My family will be there in June. Is there a traditional event for summer solstice? - Ruth

Unlike other Nordic nations, Iceland does not have nationwide celebrations for the summer solstice. One place that has an annual event is in the far north. It is an island called Grímsey. They have a multiple day festival to celebrate the long and seemingly endless summer day. Here is where you can find the program for last year. I assume they will have the 2024 program soon. Please note that you need to take either a boat or plane to reach Grímsey. I have heard that many people get sea sick on the boat, so keep  that in mind if you choose that option.

5. "Thank you so much for your informative podcasts! My wife and I are planning to visit Iceland for the first time in October 2025. We believe that the best way to experience a new place is to immerse ourselves in it and to attempt to learn the language. What was your experience in learning the Icelandic language, and what do you recommend is a good way/resource to learn the language?" - Gerald

My recommendation for learning Icelandic is to get as much input of the language as you can in a way that you can relate to. Meaning,

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

A Troll Lurking in Iceland’s East Fjords

Mjóifjörður (or narrow fjord) used to have up to 100 inhabitants centuries ago but it is now only about 14 people live there. During the winter it is common for the roads to be completely blocked off and the inhabitants can only be reached by boat.The troll of this story was said to be around centuries ago when there were more people living in the fjord. She lived in a beautiful gorge called Prestagil. It‘s said tha the troll would use her magical powers to make the priests of the church in small farm called Fjörður go mad.

Priests Enchanted by a Hungry Troll

 Her routine was to wait fo the pastor to be at the pulpit of the church on Sunday and then she would wave her hand outside the pulpit window. The pastor would see this and it would somehow enchant him to say:Tear out my guts and my heartOff to the gorge I'll departTear out my lust and my seedTo Mjóifjörður gorge I shall speedAfter saying this, the priest would run out of the church as fast as he could into the gorge where the troll lived and was never seen again. Due to the Troll telling a traveler once that she was nibbling on the head of a former priest of the Fjörður, news spread that the troll was eating the men.Several priests took the position over the years and each one disappeared after being enchanted by the troll. Naturally, priests became too afraid to serve there because they didn’t want to become Troll food.

A Brave Priest Comes Along

Finally, a priest volunteered even though he knew of the danger. What this priest did differently than the others was that he came up with a plan. Before his first mass, he assembled a group of men that normally attended the church.He instructed them to do the following: When the troll tried to enchant him, six men will hold him back from running out of the church, another six will ring the church bells, and ten men will hold the church doors shut.The fateful Sunday arrived and just as expected, the Troll waved her hand at the pulpit window. The priest immediately became enchanted and said the rhyme.All of the men jumped into action. While the men held the priest back from fleeing the church, the other men rang the church bells like crazy. When the troll heard the bells she fled into the gorge and was never seen again.

Random Fact of the Episode

Klifbrekkufossar is a seven tiered waterfall in Mjóifjörður that is worth seeing if you are in the area and have time to drive into this fjord.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Prestagil – Pastor’s Gorge

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Interviews are one of my favorite things to do for the podcast, so I was delighted when Laura was available to come on and share about her experience moving from the San Francisco Bay area to one of the most remote parts of the Westfjords in Iceland.

Background About Laura Alice Watt

Laura Alice Watt is a professor emerita of environmental history and policy at Sonoma State University in Northern California. She arrived in the Westfjords in July 2020 with a Fulbright-NSF Arctic Scholar grant to conduct historical research in Iceland, and decided to stay long-term.  She teaches occasional courses at the University Centre of the Westfjords, where she also provides writing support for graduate students with their thesis projects.Before taking early retirement from Sonoma State, she spent fifteen years as professor in the Department of Geography, Environment, and Planning, and also Graduate Coordinator for SSU's Cultural Resource Management masters program. She now lives on the northern shore of Dýrafjörður with her two cats, and is an avid photographer and knitter.

Questions I Asked Laura During the Interview

* Where did you grow up in the US?* What was your profession while living in the US?* What inspired you to come to Iceland?* When did you know you wanted to stay here?* Why did you choose the Westfjords to live in Iceland?* What do you like about living in Iceland?* What do you dislike about living in Iceland?* What do you miss from the US (if anything at all)?* Do you ever see yourself moving back to the US?* How has your Icelandic learning journey been since moving here?* What advice do you have for people who want to move to Iceland?* What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Icelandic Phrase of the Episode

Glöggt er gests augað - Keen is the eye of the guest

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.