Perfect First Layer Podcast guydunlap@gmail.com

This Episodes Questions:
Hey fellas! I live in stony plain Alberta and the temp like to swing a solid 80 degrees celcius over the year. I'm doing a new stereo build for my car and want to put my lowly ender 3 neo to work! It's modded to all heck and I can put it in my workshop if I need a heated chamber. Now here's my question. In the summer it's not unusual to see North of 35c/95f which means in car temps when parked can reach 50c/125f now will PETG survive this? Or do I need to go with ABS?I could google it but I'd much rather listen to guy accuse Nathan of making up words while JJ prints a golden toilet in the background.Cheers fellas! Look forward to the next episode.P.S.  I can't remember if I said this or not initially. I'll be making speaker pods that live on the dash next to the A pillar. Normally I'd do wood and fiberglass. Justin
I initially purchased a Prusa printer with the understanding that I could continuously upgrade it through available kits as new versions are released. However, I’m beginning to question whether this approach is truly beneficial. Do you believe it is sensible for Prusa to design the MK5 in a manner that allows full upgrading from the MK4, or could this strategy be inadvertently hindering significant innovation?Love the podcast!'' Jim
What are your thoughts on the best base or location for a printer?  Something soft to absorb vibration or hard and heavy to be sturdy, or a layering of different materials? Ben

This Episodes Questions:
I'm really looking forward to hearing about Guy's experience putting together his latest Voron. If you guys could build your “ultimate Voron”, what would it be and what would be your application for it? James
Are the phrozen machines any good or are they just bambu lab replicas? Tobias Raynor
 I am debating between a dual hybrid corexy motion system for idex or a basic cartesian cube setup.  I know everyone is obsessed with corexy these days for speed and quality but are there any actual benefits to that over a cube cartesian system like the ender 5 plus?  From what I can tell, all the benefits come from limiting bed movement to the z axis and a print head that is potentially lighter due to not carrying the x axis motor.  I'm using high temp motors so in theory they don't need to be moved outside of the chamber, and with idex, the x gantry will never be that light.   Am I missing something or do these 2 printer styles essentially share the same benefits? What do you think I should do - hybrid corexy or cartesian cube?Should I trust that this can be done safely, follow directions posted online, and maybe just have an electrician friend check my work?Is the reality that wiring on any moving parts will eventually fail, and therefore I should pursue a custom 48v or 24v heatbed made in the 800+ W range?Thanks guys and keep up the good work with the podcast Peter Osinski

This Episodes Questions:
Hey guys!seems like you guys cant stop talking about Bhaam-Booo printers. so this question is about filaments.I like how manufactures clearly label their filaments what type of filament it is(PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA so on) but what I dont like is how different brands/manufactures filaments differ from one another... NOT ALL PLAs are SAME PLAs even though the TYPE and COLOR are the same. so that makes me question - what the heck these manufactures mix into their filaments? is there any regulating body like FDA for food stuff? how are these random bands(funky named-chinese brands) able to offer filaments from time to time on the market?will be looking forward to the next episode! Thanks, Max
Hi, I really enjoy the pod cast. Keep up the good work. What the is the correlation between layer adhesion and a matted or shiny finish of a ABS print. Doesn’t a shiny finish mean better layer bonding. I want the strongest parts possible my chamber temps can reach 65-70c on a voron. What confusing me is when I run a volumetric flow test per Ellis tuning guide It says to pay attention to where it transitions from matted to shiny. So which is better for layer adhesion for abs? I hope you are understanding what I’m asking. Leeki Bumb
You had a question previously of someone who had acquired an X1 Carbon for work.  They were very happy with it and asked for a recommendation for a second printer, something in the $2500 range.  I was waiting for you to recommend the Bambu Lab X1E (Enterprise/Engineering) because that is exactly the price of that machine, but there was no mention of it.  The hot end gets hotter and it has a full lan only capabilities.   It seems like this machine is the reason we don't have full lan mode on the X1 Carbon, because they want to charge you an extra $1000 for that capability.  To me, that is a bad reason to withhold software features on X1 Carbon.  With a $600 Creality K1C able to do full lan mode out of the box, it seems to me it's direct competitor is really the $2500 Bambu X1E.  What do you think?Keep up the great work.  Best 3d printing podcast there is. Adam

This Episodes Questions:
Howdy!  I just wanted to comment about the last podcast it was mentioned when you put a Bambu printer in LAN only mode bypassing the cloud it asks you for the 10 digit code.  It doesn't do that anymore, you just have to enter the code once and it remembers it now. Leith
In Canada today, a Prusa MK4 is $1099 CAD, Bambu's A1 is $719, or Creality is selling the Ender 3 V3 KE for $399. All 3 are bed slingers capable of a sub 20 minute benchy, auto bed-levelling, and input shaping.In the early days of 3D printing, Prusa demanded a premium because they had arguably the best printer on the market. Today, Prusa still prices their printers like they are a cut above,  but the competition has caught up.Does Prusa need to reassess how they price their machines in today's market? Or is that orange paint still worth the Prusa premium?I've been playing around with 3D printing on my ender 3 v2 for almost a year now, and I've pretty much exclusively used PLA. The other day I got my first spool of PETG and I'm amazed, it prints just like PLA but is tougher, more thermal resistant, UV resistant, and the quality is just as good as PLA and just as easy to print.Why are we still predominantly using PLA when PETG exists? Cory
Hey Guy, Nathan & JJ,Thanks for everything you guys do!the question is about designing models you could monetize. There are many talented folks come up with original ideas but one size does not fit all. so how about designing similar model for same purpose? truly designing; not removing their logos from their STLs, designing and making STEP files.does it invite copyright issues? just wanted to hear on this from you guys.Thanks, keep up the good workEM Extruded Mind
Also, I'm guessing the printer's motion control components are just as important for print quality if not more so, but is there anything new and innovative happening in the motion control space or has decades of industrial automation given us the best we are going to get and all that's left to do is find the best components at the cheapest price? James

This Episode's Questions:
It seems to me that the 3D printer market is going to split into two types; the enclosed ecosystem (Apple) and the open source type (Android). Companies like Bambu want the enclosed ecosystem to build appliances that maximize profit potential. I'm OK with that because there is good value to consumers for products that “just work” and you guys clearly like your P1P's and P1S's. My only problem with that is the loss of privacy and control to Bambu's network. It's a no-go for me and like Nathan, I work offline and I will never own a machine that requires online access to operate. I got the impression there is a way around that but Bambu makes it difficult. Could you expand on what workarounds there are for people like me who don't want to drink the Koolaid? James
Hello! New listener, and first time writer. I have an Ender 3, an Ender 3 v2, and a friends CR-10 smart.  I was wondering what your recommendations would be to upgrade one of the Enders to print either TPU, or ABS/ASA. I could go either direction really! Love the show! Leo
I heard a guy asking about building. Voron and you guys recommend he go with bambu. But he can go with troodon which is a pre built voron. I provided a link. Brad
And Nathan dispels some 3D Printing superstitions

This Episodes Questions:
 I want to make this printer as safe as possible but it will require a lot of power.  AC powered heat beds are getting more and more common but every video I watch on the topic makes a point to talk about SSRs failing with the power on (closed circuit?) even when talking about high quality and over-spec SSRs.  A thermal fuse will prevent a melted bed but then I still have a potentially dangerous situation with 120v AC power.  I am very well aware of the recent A1 recall and don't want to turn this into a bambu discussion.  I think we can all agree they shouldn't have put an AC powered heater on a bed slinger and call it a day Peter  .STL files are ubiquitous, but are there better alternatives such as .3MF? What are the pros and cons of different file formats?Also, do you have any recommendations for export settings when exporting a 3D file from a CAD program.Thanks!Austin
Hi Guys,I enjoy listening to your show here in the UK in my workshop. 3D printing started as a much loved hobby and has now turned into a big part of my small business 3d printing light fittings.Anyway, I'm currently running a bunch of Ultimaker 2's and looking to to upgrade.I print pretty much everything with 1mm - 1.5mm walls and a 0.5mm layer height, lots of spiralize/vase mode. Id love to hear your opinions on which printers can print wide walls and big layer heights with good cooling to speed my production up. I found that the matchless nozzles from 3D solex helped btw. Its definitely time to ditch the old UM2's though (I'm not considering Ultimakers, they're now hugely overpriced IMHO). I'm not after huge build volume either. Bamboo is a no for me due to IP worries.Thanks and keep up the good work!Jamie Norris Green - Leeds - UK