Chris Kalous (The Enormocast) and Andrew Bisharat (Evening Sends) are talking to the best and most interesting people in climbing. Now clip your last piece and dig in...
RunOut #53: Embracing Your Own Progression with Nina Caprez
If you’ve ever found yourself clawing your way up the second pitch of a Gunks moderate with a 25-pound rack gear slung across your sweaty chest, you may also find yourself dumbfounded when you see pictures of pro climbers free climbing 20 pitches up the side of El Cap with nothing but a single locker and maybe an X4 on their harness. What do they know that you don’t? We share the secret knowledge of how “real” climbing gets done, and other sausage-making tips.
Next, we chat with Swiss climbing icon Nina Caprez about her current adventures during COVID. Turns out she’s taking #vanlife to the next level while re-evaluating what goals and progression mean on a personal level.
Finally, Niall Grimes delivers an unforgettable tribute to the late Doug Scott in a way that only he can.
Nina Caprez and “Andrea,” Nina Caprez’s adventure rig.
Niall Grimes and his Jam Crack Podcast
Portrait (C): Keith Ladzinski
RunOut #52: Way Down in Cochamo
Kicking off our 52nd episode, we sit down with fellow climbing podcaster Steven Dimmit of the Nugget Climbing podcast to talk shop and argue about the limits of this artistic medium. Even though, as a podcaster, Steven puts us to shame in both regularity and frequency, we nevertheless enjoyed chatting about what he’s got going on over at the Nugget.
For the main bit, we speak with Chris Kalman, a writer and climber from Flagstaff, Arizona, about his forays into writing climbing fiction. His forthcoming book, “Dammed if You Don’t,” poses the question what if our efforts to save the places we love ends up destroying them? Is this a work of environmental activism or unrequited psychotic love? You decide.
Rounding out this arcane episode full of “Chris’s,” our final bit is an op-ed delivered by yet another Chris, whose voice is as strong as his gorilla compression strength is fierce. That would be Chris Schulte, of course, who ponders the question: Just what the F— is going on out there at the crags?
The Nugget Climbing Podcast. https://thenuggetclimbing.com
Chris Kalman Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kalman-diyd/dammed-if-you-dont
Chris Schulte on Insta. https://www.instagram.com/chris_schulte/
Become a Rope Gun by supporting us on Patreon! https://www.patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Lead photo: Kalman on El Filo la Aleta de Tiburón in Cochamó. Photo by Austin Siadak http://instagram.com/austin_siadak.
RunOut #51: Emily Harrington Has Arrived
Fresh off her historic first female ascent of Golden Gate in a day (GGIAD), Emily Harrington joins us, the unworthy podcast hosts, as we grovel in the dirt and prostrate ourselves before her majesty’s feet—still ensconced in Alex Honnold’s TC Pros. With GGIAD, Harrington has really arrived as one of the best female climbers of all time. It’s hard to think of another woman who has done as much across all disciplines, from big mountains to national competitions and ice fests, to hard sport. Though we aren’t worthy, we did enjoy this inspiring dive into one of the great bits of news in the climbing world this year.
Speaking of news, one place you won’t be reading it is in the pages of Rock and Ice magazine, which has sold / merged with Climbing magazine. We reminisce about the golden era of climbing magazines, bemoan social media, and bemuse the sort of whimper with which the news was seemingly received about Rock and Ice’s folding.
And for the final bit, introducing everyone’s new favorite game, Whose PSAAT! Is That Anyway?
Photo by Jon Glassberg / Louder Than 11.
RunOut #50: Boone Speed Ahead
We kick off our 50th episode with a perilous journey through the world of objective hazards, especially as they pertain to the Mount Everest guiding industry and onslaught of lawsuits coming their way.
Next we kick it with Boone Speed, a man of the world and the captain of Grasshopper Adjustable Climbing Walls. (Why didn’t he name his company Boone Boards is unclear to us.)
For the Final Bit, Chris Parker turns the lights down and sets the mood right with his surefire campfire Dave Matthews Band setlist that will woo any crush back to your rig.
Thanks for the support and here’s to another Fitty episodes sent.
RunOut #49: The Diamond (And Crowds) Are in Style
Work from crag and the fact that no one can get to Europe means that covid is concentrating the crowds at the crags in a big way. Will Creeksgiving be more like Burning Man with a side of super-spreader?
After sobering up, we speak to Chris Weidner, a climber and writer from Boulder, about “Gambler’s Fallacy” (5.13b), his and Bruce Miller’s new route on the Diamond of Long’s Peak, Colorado.
Finally, the great and powerful Corey Rich dishes up an amazing story about Fred Beckey, bees, and a set of nuts.
Chris Weidner on Instagram, and you can also read his column on climbing at the Daily Camera.
Corey Rich on Instagram, and check out his book Stories Behind the Images.
Featured image: Chris Weidner on the last pitch of Gambler’s Fallacy (5.13b) on the Diamond of Longs Peak with Bruce Miller on belay. Photo by Jon Glassberg / Louder Than 11.
RunOut #48: God Save the Climate
The end may be nigh, but the absolutely nasty bass lines of Rocco Prestia will live forever. Chris eulogizes the recent passing of Rocco, bass player for the San Francisco funk band Tower of Power, in a meandering conversation about music that—spoiler alert—has nothing to do with climbing.
For the main bit, we go deep with Mario Molina, an avid alpinist, snowboarder, mountain biker, guide, and life adventurer who is the executive director of Protect Our Winters, a climate advocacy group that turns passionate outdoor people into effective climate advocates. The main question lingering is, Are we really f-ked? Mario’s optimism, however, saves the day.
The final bit returns to music, with a scratchy iPhone recording of our friend Lisa Hathway strumming Neil Young at a recent campfire jam out in Indian Creek.
Protect Our Winters: https://protectourwinters.org
POW Make a Damn Plan: https://protectourwinters.org/plan
Tower of Power on NPR’s Tiny Desk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDksWTzZQ2c
Rocco Prestia obit: https://www.guitarworld.com/news/legendary-tower-of-power-bassist-rocco-prestia-dies-aged-69
Phish: Anatomy of a Jam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6j6Xclma02w