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We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below.

Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/

Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I

Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html

Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf

Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf

Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below.

Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/

Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1

Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169

Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html

‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/

Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below.

Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures

MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/

British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive

John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave

John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853

George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/

Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio

Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod

London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/

David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below.

Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer

Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/

Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.org/titles/hail-the-new-puritan

Isabella Burley, Cult VIP: Rachel Auburn, Dazed Digital (5 February 2013): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15548/1/cult-vip-rachel-auburn

Leigh Bowery on The Clothes Show (1988): https://youtu.be/om0MrCOXPcE

Al Mulhall, Fashion Archive: Bodymap, Dazed (16 December 2009): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/6120/1/fashion-archive-bodymap

Kar-Wai Wong (director), William Chang (costume design), In the Mood for Love (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118694/

Noël Coward: Art & Style, Guildhall Art Gallery (2020-2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward

Adam & The Ants, Prince Charming (1981): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p__WmyAE3g

Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (25 September 2010 – 9 January 2011): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/diaghilev-and-the-ballets-russes

Designing Dreams: A Celebration of Leon Bakst, Villa Sauber, Monaco (23 October 2016 – 15 January 2017): https://tinyurl.com/hudos65

We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below.

Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339

bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/

Autograph: Exploring Josephine Baker (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker

Terri Simone Francis, Josephine Baker's Cinematic Prism (Indiana University Press 2021):
https://iupress.org/9780253052179/josephine-bakers-cinematic-prism/

Joséphine Baker, Le sel de la semaine (18 mars 1968): https://ici.radio-canada.ca/info/videos/media-8114314/josephine-baker-au-sel-semaine

Jack Mangan interviews Josephine Baker aboard the SS Liberté (3 October 1950): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO1YLXqxTU

Josephine Baker, Rehearsal for a performance at Olympia, Paris (1964): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQ8p9U3Iw0

We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below.

Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london

Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london

Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Drapery, Fashion, Ghosts’ and ‘Jake Wood-Evans: Between Two Worlds’, Pan &the Dream, Issue 4: Pan’s ghost Stories (2020): https://www.panandthedream.com/products/pans-ghost-stories-issue-4

M.R. James, ‘”Oh, Whistle, and I'll Come to You, My Lad”’, Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904): https://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/jamesmr-ohwhistle/jamesmr-ohwhistle-00-h.html

Jake Wood-Evans: https://www.jakewoodevans.com/

Deborah Turbeville: https://www.instagram.com/deborah_turbeville/

Benoit Delhomme: https://www.instagram.com/benoitdelhomme

Wolfgang Tillmans, Faltenwurf (Cubitt Edition) (2000): https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/tillmans-faltenwurf-cubitt-edition-p78405

Robert Howlett, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, National Portrait Galler (1857):
https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00867/Isambard-Kingdom-Brunel

London Stereoscopic Company, Peter Jackson (1889): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Jackson_(boxer)#/media/File:Peter_Jackson_boxer_1889.jpg

Germaine Krull, Jean Cocteau, Museum of Modern Art (1929): https://www.moma.org/collection/works/51344

Neil Kenlock, Olive Morris, National Portrait Gallery (1973): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw272120/Olive-Morris

Fur coat, Museum of London (c. 1945): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82495.html

James van der Zee, Lady with fur jacket, Howard Greenberg Gallery (1935): http://www.howardgreenberg.com/artists/james-van-der-zee