Bande à part Bande à part

We discuss Frédéric Tscheng’s 2019 documentary Halston and consider the American designer’s incredible work. See links below.

Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/

Halston on Dogwoof: https://dogwoof.com/halston

Jack Hazan (director), A Bigger Splash (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071219/ (contains Ossie Clark show footage)

Dwight Hemion/Joe Layton (directors): My name is Barbra, TV Special (1965): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0243435/

Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman, Halston: An American Original (Harper Collins 1999): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Halston.html?id=mLRxQgAACAAJ

Leslie Frowick, Halston: Inventing American Fashion (Rizzoli 2014): https://www.rizzolibookstore.com/halston-inventing-american-fashion

Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon, Yves Saint Laurent + Halston (YUP 2015): https://yalebooks.yale.edu/book/9780300211511/yves-saint-laurent-halston

Jenny Lister (author, editor), Mary Quant (V&A 2019): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/mary-quant-hardback-157216.html

We discuss the Dora Maar exhibition at Tate Modern, and especially enjoy seeing her fascinating fashion and street photography.

‘Dora Maar’, Tate Modern, London (to 15 March 2020): https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/dora-maar

‘Modern Couples: Art, Intimacy and the Avant-garde’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (10 October 2018 – 27 January 2019): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2018/event/modern-couples-art-intimacy-and-the-avant-garde

Brian Dillon, ‘The Voraciousness and Oddity of Dora Maar’s Pictures’, The New Yorker (21 May 2019): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/the-voraciousness-and-oddity-of-dora-maars-pictures

Liz Jobey, ‘The mesmerising art of Dora Maar’, Financial Times (15 November 2019): https://www.ft.com/content/0ee21c42-05a6-11ea-9afa-d9e2401fa7ca

Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1934), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56376

Dora Maar, ‘Untitled’ (c. 1930), MoMA: https://www.moma.org/collection/works/56382

Hans-Christian Dany, ‘MA-1. Mode und Uniform’ (Edition Nautilus 2018): https://edition-nautilus.de/programm/ma-1-mode-und-unifo

Antwaun Sargent, ‘The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion’ (Aperture 2019): https://aperture.org/shop/the-new-black-vanguard/

Patrick Baty, ‘The Anatomy of Colour’ (Thames & Hudson 2017): https://thamesandhudson.com/the-anatomy-of-colour-9780500519332

We revisit our favourite game - this time choosing the fashion photographs we would like to inhabit. See links below.

Nick Knight: https://www.nickknight.com/

Edward Steichen, Marion Morehouse, 1927: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/model-marion-morehouse-standing-with-both-hands-on-her-hips-news-photo/507047690

Helmut Newton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris (1975): https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/helmut-newton-19202004-yves-st-laurent-rue-6225247-details.aspx

Gordon Parks, Fath Show Stoppers, Paris 1951: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/about-gordon-parks/photography-archive/fashion-1948-61?view=slider#19

Gordon Parks on Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/entity/m02t_dy

‘A Hectic Week of Paris Showings’, Life (5 March 1951):
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0UsEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA102&dq=%22jacques%20fath%22&pg=PA105#v=onepage&q&f=false

Franz Xaver Winterhalter, Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Ladies-in-Waiting (1855): https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Winterhalter_Franz_Xavier_The_Empress_Eugenie_Surrounded_by_her_Ladies_in_Waiting.jpg

Martin Munkacsi: Stephen Mooallem, ‘Astonish Me: The Making of Harper’s Bazaar’, Harper’s Bazaar (23 February 2017): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a20537/making-of-harpers-bazaar/

Anthony Gordon (photographer), Alex Arts (model), ‘Alex Works: Careering through the Eighties’, The Face No. 100, September 1988 on Paul Gorman Is: https://www.paulgormanis.com/?p=21154

We discuss Mae West - her transgressive and contradictory negotiations of gender, sexuality, class and ethnicity, her body image and her incredible film costumes and extravagant jewels. See links below.

Lowell Sherman (director), Edith Head (costume designer, uncredited), ‘She done him wrong’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024548/

Wes Ruggles (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘I’m No Angel’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024166/fullcredits

Leo McCarey (director), Travis Banton (costume designer), ‘Belle of the Nineties’ (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024873/

Jill Watts, ‘Mae West: An Icon in Black and White’, Oxford University Press (2003):
https://global.oup.com/academic/product/mae-west-9780195161120

Mae West speaks at UCLA (5 December 1971): https://comm.ucla.edu/content/speaker-series-mae-west-5121971

FIDM Museum, ‘Mae West’ (14 August 2009): https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/mae-west.html

Bert Williams, Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/ihas.200038860/

Cait Miller, ‘Celebrating Bessie Smith: “Empress of the Blues”’, In the Muse - Performing Arts Blog, Library of Congress (30 April 2018): https://blogs.loc.gov/music/2018/04/celebrating-bessie-smith-empress-of-the-blues/

Jacob Bagwell, Anjelica Huston and Peter Lester, ‘New Again: Mae West’, Interview Magazine (11 December 2013, first published in 1974): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/new-again-mae-west

We discuss Lina Iris Viktor’s mesmerising exhibition at Autograph and the 1981 documentary ‘Edith Head: Portrait of a Hollywood Costume Designer’. See links below.

Lina Iris Viktor, ‘Some are born to endless night – dark matter’, Autograph (13 September 2019 – 25 January 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/some-are-born-to-endless-night-dark-matter

Lina Iris Viktor’s website: https://www.linaviktor.com/

Sarah Cascone, ‘Gustav Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer Paintings to Be Reunited at Neue Galerie’, artnetnews (30 June 2016): https://news.artnet.com/exhibitions/neue-galerie-gustav-klimt-adele-bloch-bauer-paintings-535565

Christian Blackwood and Charlotte Kerr (directors), Edith Head (1981): https://www.michaelblackwoodproductions.com/project/edith-head/

We discuss the diverse and fascinating exhibits on display in ‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’ at the Science Museum in London. See links below.

‘African Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection’, Brunei Gallery, SOAS (11 October 2019 – 14 December 2019): https://www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/african-textiles/

‘The Art of Innovation: From Enlightenment to Dark Matter’, Science Museum (25 September 2019 – 26 January 2020): https://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/see-and-do/art-innovation-enlightenment-dark-matter

Ciba-Geigy Review: https://discover.libraryhub.jisc.ac.uk/search?q=ciba+geigy+review

Caroline Alexander, ‘Faces of War’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2007): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/faces-of-war-145799854/

Jeanne Willette, ‘Henry Tonks: Torn Portraits: The Art of Facial Reconstruction’, arthistoryunstuffed (1 July 2016): https://arthistoryunstuffed.com/henry-tooks-torn-portraits-the-art-of-facial-reconstruction/

Allison Meier, ‘The Sculptor who made masks for soldiers disfigured in World War I’, Hyperallergic (8 September 2016): https://hyperallergic.com/314255/the-sculptor-who-made-masks-for-soldiers-disfigured-in-world-war-i/

Sandra Kemp, ‘Future Face: Image, Identity, Innovation’, Science Museum (October 2004 – February 2005): https://wellcomecollection.org/books/WwVK3CAAAHm5ExyF and http://www.bbc.co.uk/ouch/features/future_face_exhibition_at_the_science_museum_london.shtml