121 episodes

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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    • Society & Culture
    • 4.9 • 38 Ratings

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

    Au Bonheur Des Dames

    Au Bonheur Des Dames

    We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below.

    Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/

    Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I

    Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html

    Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf

    Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf

    Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

    • 23 min
    Helmut Newton

    Helmut Newton

    We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below.

    Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/

    Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1

    Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169

    Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452

    Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/

    Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html

    ‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/

    Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/

    • 28 min
    Border Weave

    Border Weave

    We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below.

    Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures

    MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/

    British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive

    John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave

    John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853

    George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/

    Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio

    Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod

    London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/

    David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

    • 27 min
    Michael Clark

    Michael Clark

    We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below.

    Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer

    Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/

    Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.org/titles/hail-the-new-puritan

    Isabella Burley, Cult VIP: Rachel Auburn, Dazed Digital (5 February 2013): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15548/1/cult-vip-rachel-auburn

    Leigh Bowery on The Clothes Show (1988): https://youtu.be/om0MrCOXPcE

    Al Mulhall, Fashion Archive: Bodymap, Dazed (16 December 2009): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/6120/1/fashion-archive-bodymap

    Kar-Wai Wong (director), William Chang (costume design), In the Mood for Love (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118694/

    Noël Coward: Art & Style, Guildhall Art Gallery (2020-2021): https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/guildhall-galleries/guildhall-art-gallery/noel-coward

    Adam & The Ants, Prince Charming (1981): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p__WmyAE3g

    Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (25 September 2010 – 9 January 2011): https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/diaghilev-and-the-ballets-russes

    Designing Dreams: A Celebration of Leon Bakst, Villa Sauber, Monaco (23 October 2016 – 15 January 2017): https://tinyurl.com/hudos65

    • 25 min
    Josephine Baker

    Josephine Baker

    We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below.

    Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339

    bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/

    Autograph: Exploring Josephine Baker (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker

    Terri Simone Francis, Josephine Baker's Cinematic Prism (Indiana University Press 2021):

    Joséphine Baker, Le sel de la semaine (18 mars 1968): https://ici.radio-canada.ca/info/videos/media-8114314/josephine-baker-au-sel-semaine

    Jack Mangan interviews Josephine Baker aboard the SS Liberté (3 October 1950): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO1YLXqxTU

    Josephine Baker, Rehearsal for a performance at Olympia, Paris (1964): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdQ8p9U3Iw0

    • 26 min


    We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below.

    Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london

    Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london

    Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/

    Rebecca Arnold, ‘Drapery, Fashion, Ghosts’ and ‘Jake Wood-Evans: Between Two Worlds’, Pan &the Dream, Issue 4: Pan’s ghost Stories (2020): https://www.panandthedream.com/products/pans-ghost-stories-issue-4

    M.R. James, ‘”Oh, Whistle, and I'll Come to You, My Lad”’, Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904): https://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/jamesmr-ohwhistle/jamesmr-ohwhistle-00-h.html

    Jake Wood-Evans: https://www.jakewoodevans.com/

    Deborah Turbeville: https://www.instagram.com/deborah_turbeville/

    Benoit Delhomme: https://www.instagram.com/benoitdelhomme

    Wolfgang Tillmans, Faltenwurf (Cubitt Edition) (2000): https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/tillmans-faltenwurf-cubitt-edition-p78405

    Robert Howlett, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, National Portrait Galler (1857):

    London Stereoscopic Company, Peter Jackson (1889): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Jackson_(boxer)#/media/File:Peter_Jackson_boxer_1889.jpg

    Germaine Krull, Jean Cocteau, Museum of Modern Art (1929): https://www.moma.org/collection/works/51344

    Neil Kenlock, Olive Morris, National Portrait Gallery (1973): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw272120/Olive-Morris

    Fur coat, Museum of London (c. 1945): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82495.html

    James van der Zee, Lady with fur jacket, Howard Greenberg Gallery (1935): http://www.howardgreenberg.com/artists/james-van-der-zee

    • 21 min

Customer Reviews

4.9 out of 5
38 Ratings

38 Ratings

bluegentian1 ,

Easy listening

So kind, so gentle

CalSmith ,

Delightful and informative

The laid back but thoroughly well informed discussions in this podcast have provided an amazing entry point for me to understand and appreciate fashion.

The range of topics is excitingly broad and the genuinely useful footnotes for each episode have proven very useful and interesting.

L00321 ,

Sublime dive into fashions intricacies and experiments

A wealth of historical fashion knowledge shared by Rebecca and Beatrice in such a charming way, through natural conversation, diversions and anecdotes. Love the telephone conversation format.

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