84 episodes

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.

Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Eric J. Hörst

    • Sports
    • 4.9 • 49 Ratings

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.

Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

    #84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You

    #84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You

    In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance. 
    RUNDOWN
    0:15 - Welcome
    0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.
    2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance. 
    2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing.
    5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:
    Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber...and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach. Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general. Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance. Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber? 6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport.
    10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal?
    18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal?
    30:15 -  A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
    32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport?
    37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance?
    40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items.
    43:30 - Best best climber in the world is....
    43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    44:00 - Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). 
    44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music by Misty Murphy
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
    Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

    • 45 min
    #83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve More Greatly

    #83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve More Greatly

    If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast!
    With the perspective of a new year's renewal, Coach Hörst explains the power of making occasional training, climbing, and life “edits” in the quest for peak performance and a deeper sense of joy and happiness.
    RUNDOWN
    0:15 - Welcome
    0:43 - Job Announcement. If interested, message Eric on Instagram @Eric_Horst
    1:50 - The importance of "editing" -- in writing...and in training, climbing, and living effectively!
    5:35 - You are the author of your training (and life), so it's essential that you act with intention!
    7:45 - #1: EDIT your daily and weekly schedule to maximize time spent engaged in important activities.
    15:15 - #2: EDIT your training to provide optimal results, not maximal fatigue.
    25:24 - #3: EDIT your thoughts and self-talk to create a state of mind for massive action towards your goals.
    34:05 - #4: EDIT your diet and nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance.
    42:30 - #5: EDIT your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of good stress.
    49:50 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
    50:30 - Closing comments on the power of climbing.
    PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music by Misty Murphy
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
    Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

    • 52 min
    #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)

    #82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)

    In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make!
    Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals!
    RUNDOWN
    00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)
    01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more!
    03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings).
    05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks.
    08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains.
    14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
    16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency.
    18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months.
    21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain).
    25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals.
    28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success: 
    Podcast #57 – A Simple System for Extreme Success!
    Podcast #59: Back to Basics – Effective Training for Climbing
    Podcast #70 – A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing…and Beyond!
    Podcasts #73 & #74 – 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing!
    29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!"
    31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year!
    PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music by Misty Murphy
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    • 33 min
    #81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2)

    #81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2)

    You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance?
    This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit.  
    RUNDOWN
    0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast
    1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session.
    2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details.
    6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day.
    10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes.
    16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
    Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
    Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    • 17 min
    #80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1)

    #80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1)

    Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation. 
    0:25 - Intro to the new "FLASH edition" of the Training For Climbing podcast
    1:30 - TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior)
    3:12 - Part #1 - The goals of weekday training....and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to "peak" for weekend sending.
    4:50 - Part #2 - What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that's two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)....this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you? 
    8:32 - Part #3 - The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you're NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important -- sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors.
    11:00 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
    Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
    Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    • 13 min
    #79 - 13 "Little, BIG" Tips for Sending Your Project Boulder or Route

    #79 - 13 "Little, BIG" Tips for Sending Your Project Boulder or Route

    In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
    Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.
    RUNDOWN
    3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing
    4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.
    10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.
    14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.
    20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.
    26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.
    SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Endure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
    32:45 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.
    39:15 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.
    41:13 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?
    44:35 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!
    45:45 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...
    50:45 - 11.  Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.
    52:00 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!
    54:45 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.
    58:15 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business.
    1:00:10 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.
    PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
    SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
    SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
    Music by Misty Murphy
    Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
    Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
    Follow Eric on Facebook!
    And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

    • 1 hr 2 min

Customer Reviews

4.9 out of 5
49 Ratings

49 Ratings

LancashireNicole ,

Great podcast

Really like Eric’s ability to bridge the gap between his knowledge, current knowledge from research and practical application. He’s also great at reflecting naturally on what he has done that has or hasn’t worked or initial perceptions on concepts he’s tried out.

vhfjrjei ,

A great podcast!

Always got new and interesting information

Nell_Gwyn ,

Hard to follow

TL,DR: host has incredible knowledge but the podcast needs big improvement on delivery.

I was listened to the energy system episodes. I’m putting 4 stars for the hard work the host put on and made available to us but overall I was quite disappointed. First there’s like 15 minutes of ranting before the episode actually starts. It’s such a waste of time. Why not keeping this to the end? Or telling us to skip to XX’XX” for the episode’s topic? And second, the content is hard to follow. There’s no pause, the structure isn’t obvious and the desire to make it exhaustive makes it often off topic and/or boring (eg: explaining us to write our question in two tweets if it is over tweeter’s 140 characters, seriously) even for me a professional sports teacher who already know about energy systems and just want to understand better how to apply them to my climbing.

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