98 集
The Testpiece Podcast Testpiece
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- 體育
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.
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#98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake
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Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.
SHOW NOTES:
Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $Petzl Roc TripJames-Caro Wedding Present
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#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure
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Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.
Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.
SHOW NOTES:
Multiverse FA by Jimmy WebbThe Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel DavisonSupport the Show.
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#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
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You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send.
But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!
Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.
SHOW NOTES:
Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam OndraMichaela KierschHuecoEra VellaTick ListAidan Robert’s On New V17’s?No Edge ShoesSupport the Show.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
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Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!
He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!
Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level for over a decade including internationally at World Cups. He’s climbed 14d and sent his first V15 a few days before we recorded this podcast!
SHOW NOTES:
Momentum Climbing TeamSupport the Show.
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#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
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What is the best way to approach a climb?
It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time.
Announcement!!
$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now!
SHOW NOTES:
Devilution by Shawn RaboutouElias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)Dana White on Lex Fridman
Support the Show.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
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#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
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Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸
Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep.
Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14!
She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing.
SHOW NOTES:
Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbsCampusing on the 4mm’sSolving a Rubik’s Cube while hangingJerry Moffat’s book MastermindKeenan Takahashi Testpiece PodcastFLOAT TrailerCircle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)Support the Show.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
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