Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.
135: Halston on TV
We discuss the new Netflix series on Halston - just how accurate is it? And how will they turn fashion design into entertainment? See links below.
Daniel Minahan (director), Jeriana San Juan (costume designer), Halston (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9569546/
Netflix Staff, ‘The Fashion Behind Halston’ (13 May 2021): https://about.netflix.com/en/news/the-fashion-behind-halston
Maureen Dowd, ‘Ewan McGregor: Dahling, He’s Halston!’, The New York Times (7 May 2021): https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/07/style/ewan-mcgregor-halston-netflix.html
Molly O’Donnell, ‘Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion Designer (1881-1956)’, Maine Historical Society (3 December 2019): https://mainehistory.wordpress.com/2019/12/03/jessie-franklin-turner-american-fashion-designer/
Exhibition: ‘Halston and Warhol: Silver and Suede’, The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh (18 May – 24 August 2014): https://www.warhol.org/exhibition/halston-and-warhol-silver-and-suede/
BBC World Service, People Fixing The World, The detection dogs tracking poachers and Covid-19 (27 April 2021): https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p09fsrjh
Walter Benjamin, ‘True Dog Stories’, Excerpt from Radio Benjamin (3 December 2014, first broadcast some time between 1927 and 1933): https://hazlitt.net/longreads/true-dog-stories
We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below.
Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/
Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf
Success: Richard Dyer on Diana Ross [and Beyond] (1982/2016): https://vimeo.com/150268022
Oybò Untuned Socks: https://www.oybo.it/
We remember Alber Elbaz and his wonderful design sensibility and talk about the amazing jewels on view at Bonhams this week. See links below.
Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/
AZ Factory Show Fashion by Alber Elbaz (26 January 2021): https://youtu.be/wssdl8xlZSk
AZ Factory: https://www.azfactory.com/
Geoffrey Beene: A Duet of Fashion + Movement, Phoenix Art Museum (2021): http://www.arizonacostumeinstitute.org/geoffrey-beene-virtual-unveiling-fundraiser
Loïc Prigent (director), The Day Before: Lanvin (2011): https://distribution.arte.tv/fiche/LANVIN__-_LE_JOUR_D_AVANT and https://youtu.be/FcYDtlQNtWc
Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/
John Brogden at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/jewellery-designs#slideshow=93099346&slide=0
Fashion and Fancy Dress (The Messel Family Dress Collection at Brighton Museum):
We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below.
Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/
Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/
Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4226919w/f9.item (about Annie Beaumel)
Alexander Fury, ‘The Fascinating Woman behind Hermès’ Window Displays’, AnOther (9 November 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10351/the-fascinating-woman-behind-hermes-window-displays (about Annie Beaumel’s ‘pupil’ Leïla Menchari)
Recueil. “Falbalas” film de Jacques Becker (1945): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10516145p
Marie Claire (15 March 1944): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4701341r/f1.image (cover with hat by Gabrielle)
Josée de Luca (director), Alex et Marie (1993) – short film about the hairstylist Alex Archambault who also was behind Simone Signoret’s hairstyle in Jacques Beckers’ ‘Casque d’or’ (1952)
Paul Thomas Anderson (director), Mark Bridges (costume design), Phantom Thread (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5776858/
131: Anna May Wong
We talk about two films featuring the mesmerising Anna May Wong: Piccadilly (1929) and Daughter of Shanghai (1937). See links below.
Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/
Robert Florey (director), Daughter of Shanghai (1937): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028770/
Costume worn by Anna Mae Wong in Daughter of Shanghai: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5634636
Brian Taves, Daughter of Shanghai, Library of Congress (undated): https://www.loc.gov/static/programs/national-film-preservation-board/documents/daughter_shanghai.pdf
Jean-François Staszak, ‘Performing race and gender: the exoticization of Josephine Baker and Anna May Wong, Gender, Place & Culture, Volume 22, No. 5 (2015): http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/0966369X.2014.885885
Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, ‘Forgetting Anna May Wong’, Wasafiri, Volume 19, Issue 43 (2004): https://doi.org/10.1080/02690050408589931
130(Repost): If I Was A Painting
We all need some light relief, so join us (again) to play ‘If I Was a Painting’. See links below.
Jacques-Louis David, Madame Récamier, née Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard (1777-1849), known as Portrait of Juliette Récamier, Musée du Louvre, Paris (1800): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/madame-recamier
François Gérard, Portrait de Juliette Récamier, Musée Carnavalet, Paris (c. 1805): http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/fr/collections/portrait-de-juliette-recamier-1777-1849
Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, National Gallery, London (about 1434): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait
Hans Memling, The Donne Tryptich, National Gallery, London (about 1478): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-memling-the-donne-triptych
Oorijzers – ‘Ear-irons’ – Part 1, Atelier Nostalgia (27 September 2016): https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2016/09/27/oorijzers-ear-irons-part-1/
John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (1897): https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/38.104/
Wash Westmoreland (director), Andrea Flesch (costume designer), Colette (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5437928/
James Jacques Tissot, Frederick Burnaby, National Portrait Gallery, London (1870): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00932/Frederick-Burnaby
François-Hubert Drouais, Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame, National Portrait Gallery, London (1763-4): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/francois-hubert-drouais-madame-de-pompadour-at-her-tambour-frame
Otto Dix, Bildnis der Journalistin Sylvia von Harden, Centre Pompidou (1926): https://www.centrepompidou.fr/cpv/resource/cjyXKB7/rzEpd6
August Sander, Sekretärin beim Westdeutscher Rundfunk in Köln (1931): https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/august-sander_sekretarin-beim-westdeutscher-rundfunk-in-koln_epreuve-gelatino-argentique_1931