The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast
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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.
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TBP 254 :: Kelly Birch on Training, Nutrition, and Mindset to Climb V14
Kelly Birch is a 29-year-old climber living in Boulder, Colorado who sent her first V14 last fall. She has many, many double digit boulders under her belt.
She is an incredible climber and has been really vocal on her Instagram about using weight training in her climbing training. She actually competed in power lifting for a while when she took a 5-year break from climbing after getting burnt out on competition climbing as a youth.
We talk in depth about the following:
her training program
how and why she incorporates heavy weight lifting into her program
what she thinks are the most important things to focus on when training for bouldering.
how she manages her schedule with a full-time job
how she fuels nutritionally for climbing and training
some of the difficulties with nutrition and body image that exist in the climbing world
how she approaches climbing with a mastery mindset
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about core training, hip mobility, how she deals with failure in climbing, and how to train efficient movement that you can find on my Patreon page.
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Get More Training Advice on Our Patreon
You can find bonus content from this episode and other climbing training advice, as well as nutrition and mindset education on our Patreon.
Become A Patron
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Show Links
Kelly Birch Instagram: @kellyabirch
Listen or Watch the the uncut video with no intro or outro on Patreon
Get nutrition and mindset education and tools on Patreon
Start a training program built by TrainingBeta
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TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford
Therapist Tyler Stableford talks with Neely about therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives.
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TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?
Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.
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TBP 251: Climbing Drills for Beginner to Elite Climbers with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate climbing drills into your sessions, why you’d do that, and which drills to do, whether you’re a novice, intermediate, or elite climber.
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TBP 250 :: How to Stop Your Sugar Cravings Once and For All
In this short episode, I talk about the incredible sugar cravings I used to have that would lead to regular binges and how I stopped them. I talk about what this taught me as a nutritionist and how I've honed that knowledge into a way of eating that decreases sugar cravings by a LOT. I'll go over what things to change about what you're eating, when you're eating, and why it's important to make these changes.
Today's episode is actually a reading of an email that I put out today to my email list. I'm doing a 5-day deep-dive into nutrition this week with my email list, and if you'd like to join that list you can do that here.
Join the Email List for Regular Training, Nutrition, and Mindset Content
I'm also doing a flash sale of 40% off of my Nourish program, which is an online video program that takes you through the process of working with me as a nutrition client and educates you on deep learning topics.
You'll learn:
How much you need to be eating at meals and snacks
When you should be eating during the day to optimize energy levels, performance, and recovery
How many grams of protein, carbs, fat, and sugar you should be consuming every day and every meal
Nutrition 101 on macros, calories, etc
Primer on how to deal with emotional eating
What to eat out at the crag
Which supplements to take, if any
Meal plans for many different caloric needs
Use Code "Save40" at Checkout for 40% Off Program Until Sunday the 29th -
TBP 249 :: How to Break into 5.11 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
Alex Stiger describes the skillset, mindset shifts, physical training, and other things that are required to climb consistently at the 5.11 grade.