The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

Shaina and I sat down and answered a bunch of questions we received from our Instagram audience about nutrition for climbers.

I sat down with current (and past) professional climbers Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angie Payne to talk about how becoming mothers in the past couple years has changed their lives as climbers. 
Emily Harrington is known for her hard sport ascents (up to 5.14b or 8c), her one-day ascent of El Cap, her ascents of Everest and other big peaks, and her epic skiing accomplishments. 
Paige Claassen is known for her hard sport ascents (up to 5.14d or 9a) and her recent ascent (post baby) of a V14/5.14d in Rocklands. 
Angela Payne is known for her accolades as a competition climber in the 2000's and the fact that she was the first woman to send V13. 
But beyond that, they're really incredible, dynamic, intelligent people who grew up together. Their close relationship and the fact that they all became mothers at around the same time is part of why I asked them to be on the show all together as more of a friendly conversation between old friends.
I wanted to give the world more of an in-depth picture of these elite climbers' lives than we see on social media. 
What We Talked About
How they all love being a mom even more than they thought they would
How being a mom has changed their climbing
What's been harder about motherhood than they thought it would be
Any long-lasting physical changes they've experienced, and how that's affected their climbing
Where they are now in their climbing compared with pre-baby
Some interesting comments they got on social media throughout pregnancy and motherhood
Some awkward comments they got in person about their bodies, etc
How they've been affected mentally in their climbing by having a child 
Whether or not they think their best days of climbing are still ahead of them
Bonus content on Patreon
There's some bonus content at the end of this episode about how they would've liked to have been talked to by strangers and friends during pregnancy and afterward, whether they want more kids, and how their sponsors responded to their pregnancy. You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
I hope you love this conversation as much as I did! It's not only for mothers, but for anyone who wants to understand motherhood through elite climbers' eyes. 

Kelly Birch is a 29-year-old climber living in Boulder, Colorado who sent her first V14 last fall. She has many, many double digit boulders under her belt.
She is an incredible climber and has been really vocal on her Instagram about using weight training in her climbing training. She actually competed in power lifting for a while when she took a 5-year break from climbing after getting burnt out on competition climbing as a youth.
We talk in depth about the following:
her training program
how and why she incorporates heavy weight lifting into her program
what she thinks are the most important things to focus on when training for bouldering.
how she manages her schedule with a full-time job
how she fuels nutritionally for climbing and training
some of the difficulties with nutrition and body image that exist in the climbing world
how she approaches climbing with a mastery mindset
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about core training, hip mobility, how she deals with failure in climbing, and how to train efficient movement that you can find on my Patreon page.
 


----more----

 

Get More Training Advice on Our Patreon
You can find bonus content from this episode and other climbing training advice, as well as nutrition and mindset education on our Patreon.
Become A Patron









 

----more----
Show Links
Kelly Birch Instagram: @kellyabirch
Listen or Watch the the uncut video with no intro or outro on Patreon
Get nutrition and mindset education and tools on Patreon
Start a training program built by TrainingBeta
 

Therapist Tyler Stableford talks with Neely about therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives.

Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.