Out Of Fashion? Remo Hegglin
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- Arts
In the early 1980s, Martin Kamer turned his passion for fashion and fashion history into a profession. He began to collect historical fashion. Over the years, this led to one of the world's most important private collections of fashion and accessories from the 18th to the 20th century, the Kamer-Ruf Collection. Today, Kamer is in demand worldwide as an exhibition organizer and expert. He will take a closer look at objects from his collection and point out exciting details. In other episodes he will talk about his experience as a collector and dealer during his career. | Host: Remo Hegglin
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Auction at Sotheby's in New York (1983)
This auction will remain in Martin Kamer's memory. He took part in it anonymously and by telephone from London. Not only did he buy many pieces for a lot of money, he also opened a new chapter in his career: From now on he was no longer interested only in dresses from the 18th and 19th centuries, but also in haute couture.
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Chasing moths
The biggest enemy of antique textiles and historical clothes is the clothes moth. Martin Kamer also loses some of his collector's items to this voracious insect, but he knows how to defend himself with appropriate measures over time. Kamer also noticed that moths do not touch clothes with certain dyes.
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The five key collaborators
Throughout his career, Martin Kamer has worked with many people on a professional level. With Rita Brown, Jan Reeder, Kumi Sakurai, Judith Clark and Annette Soumilas, he has a longstanding collaboration and special friendship. In this episode, Kamer talks about how the "five main ladies" came into his life and what the collaboration looked like.
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Sportswear
The Kamer-Ruf collection also includes some historical sportswear such as riding gear, dresses for tennis players, cycling outfits or swimwear. Martin Kamer reports on the successive emergence of leisure activities and the associated development of leisure fashion.
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Research and documentation
As a child, Martin Kamer cuts out articles and photos from art and fashion magazines and archives them. As a teenager he comes into contact with old photographs and books. During his art studies in London, Kamer spends every Friday researching in various museums and libraries. That inspires him a lot. Nowadays, Kamer gives various people access to his private library for research purposes. It contains many rare historical fashion magazines and books.
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Historical men's dresses
Martin Kamer not only collects historical ladies' dresses, historical men's dresses are also part of his collection. They make up about a quarter of the collection. Luxurious men's dresses from the 18th century have always been in demand, men's dresses from the 19th century less so. This has changed dramatically in recent years. Times have changed. Today, record prices are also being paid for historic men's fashion from the 19th century. Kamer tells of the extremely successful exhibition «Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015» at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) in 2016.
Go behind-the-scenes and see how the exhibition at LACMA was being prepared: https://vimeo.com/162776397