Выпусков: 127

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

    127: Poiret, Drecoll & Double Love

    127: Poiret, Drecoll & Double Love

    We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below.

    How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4

    Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/

    Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque française website:
    https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48362-le-double-amour-jean-epstein-1925/

    Cycle Jean Epstein – Le Double Amour, DVD Classik (not dated):
    https://www.dvdclassik.com/critique/le-double-amour-epstein

    Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art: https://www.stephenongpin.com/object/805553/0/bernard-boutet-de-monvel-paris-1884; also: https://www.instagram.com/boutet.de.monvel/

    Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120

    Textile design by Paul Poiret for Martine, Metropolitan Museum of Art (c. 1919): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/487282

    Printed cotton, designed by Francis Jourdain, made by Cornille (c. 1925), Lot 233, ‘Étoffes & Costumes Anciens – Papiers Peints’, Couteau-Bégarie & Associés, Paris, Auction (19 February 2021): https://www.coutaubegarie.com/lot/107236/14310881

    • 34 мин.
    126: Le Lion des Mogols

    126: Le Lion des Mogols

    We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below.

    Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe

    Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/

    Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924):
    https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/

    Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/

    François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf

    Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film

    Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm

    Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky

    Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour

    Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus

    Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine

    Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

    • 36 мин.
    125: The Street

    125: The Street

    We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below.

    Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/

    Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/

    Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview

    Tayari Jones, ‘In praise of Ann Petry’, The New York Times (10 November 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/10/books/review/in-praise-of-ann-petry.html

    Tayari Jones, ‘The Street: the 1940s African American thriller that became a huge bestseller’, The Guardian (14 December 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/14/the-street-the-1940s-african-american-thriller-that-became-a-huge-bestseller

    Heather J. Hicks, ‘Rethinking Realism in Ann Petry’s “The Street”, Melus. Vol. 27, No. 4 (Winter 2002): https://www.jstor.org/stable/3250621

    Heather J. Hicks, "This Strange Communion": Surveillance and Spectatorship in Ann Petry's "The Street", African American Review, vol. 37, no. 1 (Spring 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1512357

    All-American news IV (1945), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2018600204/

    One tenth of a nation. The Arts (1954), Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/item/2020600724/

    • 29 мин.
    124(Repost): Visible Mending & Unzipped

    124(Repost): Visible Mending & Unzipped

    Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below.

    The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989

    Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/

    Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html

    Visible Mending:
    https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
    http://celiapym.com/
    https://tomofholland.com/
    http://www.woolfiller.com/
    http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
    http://goldenjoinery.com/

    Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/

    Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY

    Robert J. Flaherty, Nanook of the North (1922): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013427/

    Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg

    Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8

    Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (costume design), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/

    • 22 мин.
    123: Clowns

    123: Clowns

    We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below.

    Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php

    Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs

    Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/794735.html

    Carold Reed (director), Veniero Colasanti (costume design), Trapeze (1956): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0049875/

    Mode Circus Knie, Textilmuseum St. Gallen (7 March 2019 – 19 January 2020): https://www.textilmuseum.ch/modecircus/

    Jean-Antoine Watteau, ‘Pierrot, formerly known as Gilles’ (c. 1718-19), Musée du Louvre, Paris: https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/pierrot-formerly-known-gilles

    Playbill for The Great United Circus Alhambra Palace (1858), Victoria & Albert Museum: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1462318/the-great-united-states-circus-playbill-horner/

    National Fairground and Circus Archive, The University of Sheffield: https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/nfca

    • 25 мин.
    122: Lovers Rock

    122: Lovers Rock

    We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below.

    Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/

    Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/

    Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY

    Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/

    Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker

    George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/

    Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad Kidao (costume design on different episodes), Small Axe (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3464896/
    and https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episodes/p08vxt33/small-axe

    Supertone Records: http://www.supertonerecords.co.uk/

    Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan and Jacqueline Durran (costume design), Lovers Rock (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10551102/

    Laura U. Marks, The Skin of the Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses (Duke University Press 2000): https://www.sfu.ca/~lmarks/skin/skin.html

    Lauren Cochrane, ‘Well put together’: the style legacy of lovers rock’, The Guardian online (20 November 2020): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/20/well-put-together-the-style-legacy-of-lovers-rock

    K. Austin Collins, ‘The Dance Floor Is Always at the Center of Steve McQueen’s “Lovers Rock”’, Rolling Stone (28 November 2020): https://www.rollingstone.com/movies/movie-reviews/lovers-rock-steve-mcqueen-small-axe-1090869/

    Wales Bonner, Lovers Rock collection (AW20): https://walesbonner.net/blogs/lovers-rock-aw20

    John Goto, Lovers’ Rock (1977): http://www.johngoto.org.uk/Lovers_Rock/index.htm#45

    • 28 мин.

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