GEMOLOGUE: A Jewellery Podcast from Liza Urla Liza Urla

Whenever I am in São Paulo I make sure to visit Ara Vartanian, where I first met him over eight years ago. His avant-garde gemstones jewellery combine luxury with wearability! Ara spares no expense when it comes to the size of his gemstones especially paraiba tourmalines and emeralds. His jewellery is never boring and often mind-blowing. He is famous for his opulent and innovative jewellery design and one of the first jewellers to incorporate inverted diamonds into unique designs. Luckily, you don’t have to fly to Sao Paolo to see his exceptional jewels. Ara Vartanian’s boutique is tucked away in London Mayfair. 
How is your family history connected to jewellery and gemstones?What is your favourite stone and why?What makes Paraiba Tourmalines, Emeralds, Rubellites and Pearls special? How difficult is to source these stones for your jewellery? What do you look for in Paraiba Tourmalines and Emeralds for your jewellery brand: colour, clarity, character, carat? Is buying loose gemstones a good investment?

I first caught a glimpse of Brazilian Moritz Glik’s delightful work over 7 years ago at Liberty London. The three pieces I saw there were enough to get me hooked forever! Originally a shoe designer, Glik is the sweetest, wisest and hard working men! He is based in NYC, where all his creations are handmade. Moritz design a kaleidoscope of colourful jewels moving with every movement. His jewellery ignites pure joy and playfulness in everyone lucky enough to wear them. #nobodyshakesitlikemoritzglik
Why did you choose to become a jewellery designer?How did you blend traditional technique with a playful, avant-garde sensibility in your signature locket design? What is your signature design element? How did you develop your innovative but timeless DNA across MUDA/ CORE / APOLLO collections? How important is drawing in the design process for you? How precise should it be?...

Silvia Furmanovich and I met in Sao Paulo over 8 years ago and I’ve been following the journey of her and her family’s jewellery creations ever since. I was so honoured when she asked me to be the face of her Botanica marquetry fine jewellery collection with salvaged Amazonian wood with Brazilian gemstones! ⁠A native of Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich has travelled the world bringing a multi-cultural element to her jewellery creations. Inspired by age-old artisanal techniques from the countries she’s visited like India, Egypt, Japan, and Italy. She creates the most stunning, one-of-a-kind statement pieces – a jewellery style much loved in Brazil, USA, Europe and the Middle East.⁠
What inspired you to become a jeweller?What was your vision when you launched the brand, and does it still remain the same today?Where do you go for inspiration when starting a new collection?How do you want women to feel when wearing your jewellery?...

British-born Stephen Webster MBE blends a love of traditional craftsmanship with a passion for music, fashion and art to produce jewellery that has to be picked up, worn, held to the light and loved by many jewellery lovers. All Stephen Webster jewellery collections are contemporary with a chic glam-rock twist. His enthusiasm and unmistakable creativity have helped him to win ‘British Luxury Jeweller of the Year’, ‘Diamond Jeweller of the Year’, ‘Jewellery Designer of the Year’, ‘UK Jewellery Brand of the Year’, COUTURE Award again and again! So what is it that so many love about his brand? For me it’s the bold and instant iconic style! The bright, colourful and exotic gems are just one of the many elements why we want more of Stephen Webster jewellery in our lives!
How did your jewellery journey and Stephen Webster brand start?Where do you go for inspiration when starting a new collection?What do you think will be the impact of coronavirus on the jewellery world?⁠ How is the crystal haze effect achieved?

I am currently running "United States of Jewels" series on GEMOLOGUE Instagram. Turns out, up to this point my selection was entirely taken over by talented American female jewelry designers, but here is one gentleman I couldn’t leave out! Deeply beloved by you, my gem squad and with almost 50 years of experience in the industry, Anthony Lent Jewelry has become a collection of sculptural works of art conceived in silver and gold. Tony Lent is undoubtedly one of the top American fine jewellery designers working side by side with his sons.⁠ He has dedicated his life to the painstaking transformation of visionary images into intricate pieces of wearable art.
How did Anthony Lent brand start?
What inspires you to create? What are your signature design elements?
How a jewellery startup can become successful?
Can you speak more about yourThe Celestial collection? Inspiration, process, manufacturing.
Why jewellery matters? 
What are your favourite jewellery books?

In this podcast I would like you to meet Dima Nawbar of L’Ateleier Nawbar, the fourth generation jeweller. I am very excited for you to discover her jewellery brand which she runs together with her sister Tania across the Middle East and recently in London Harrods with the base in Beirut. I first caught a glimpse of L’Atelie Nawbar jewellery during Jewellery Arabia Bahrain at Azza Showroom. Dima was floating between clients and she was always surrounded by crowds of jewellery lovers and clients who could not get enough of her stacking jewellery designs. 

How did Atelier L'Nawbar brand start? In 1891 your great great grandfather opened in the Gould souk in Beirut and in 1983 your parents opened a boutique on London Bond Street? 

You use ethically sourced materials. You also encourage the use of ecological stones in certain collections and push clients to upcycle there own jewellery reusing their stones and materials. What are your thoughts on recycling or upcycling jewellery as a trend?

What are your signature design elements? Are there any unique and special techniques used during the process

Describe your jewellery travel schedule pre Covid?  How has it changed and what have you learned from the lockdown?