108 episodes

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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    • Society & Culture

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls. Rebecca teaches at The Courtauld Institute of Art, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

    Love, Duty & Veiled Aristocrats

    Love, Duty & Veiled Aristocrats

    We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below.

    Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/

    Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/

    Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili:

    Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932)

    Irene Eber and Joan Hill, ‘Luo Chen (1883-1970), a Jewish Author in China’, Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies & Gender Issues, No. 31, (Spring-Fall 2017): https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2979/nashim.31.1.08

    Patrick Galvan, Ruan Lingyu: Her Life and Career (documentary) (16 October 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cDg7wjsas

    Richard Meyer, Jin Yan: The Rudolph Valentino of Shanghai (Hong Kong University Press 2009): https://hkupress.hku.hk/pro/318.php

    Sam Juliano, ‘Cinema as Archaeology – Bu Wancang’s masterpiece Love and Duty (1931)’, Wonders in the Dark (27 May 2011): https://wondersinthedark.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/cinema-as-archaeology-bu-wancangs-masterpiece-love-and-duty-1931/

    Anne Kerlan, ‘Love and Duty (Lian’ai yu yiwu) (1931)’, in Steve Neale, Silent Features: The Development of Silent Feature Films 1914-1934 (University of Exeter Press 2018)

    Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/

    Oscar Micheaux (director), Veiled Aristocrats (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023655/

    Trailer for Veiled Aristocrats on The Criterion Channel: https://www.criterionchannel.com/veiled-aristocrats/videos/veiled-aristocrats-trailer

    Charles W. Chesnutt, The House Behind the Cedars (The University of Georgia Press 2000, first published 1900): https://ugapress.org/book/9780820321943/the-house-behind-the-cedars/

    Charles Musser, The Films of Oscar Micheaux, The Criterion Channel (2016): https://www.criterionchannel.com/videos/the-films-of-oscar-micheaux

    Monica Drake, ‘Oscar Micheaux’, The New York Times (not dated): https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/oscar-micheaux-overlooked.html

    Oscar Micheaux (1884-1951): Micheaux Film Corporation, Norman Studios Online Museum: http://normanstudios.org/nsdrc/displays/oscar-micheaux/

    Douglas Sirk (director), Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/

    Nella Larsen, Passing (2003, first published 1929): https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/286575/passing-by-nella-larsen/

    • 34 min
    Willi Smith

    Willi Smith

    We talk about the fabulous catalogue and wonderful website accompanying the ‘Willi Smith: Street Couture’ exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. See links below.

    Lou Stoppard, ‘The Phantom Handbag’, New York Times (16 July 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/15/style/coronavirus-handbags.html

    Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxBFwqRbI8c

    Simone Vertua, ‘Show-in-a-box: Loewe celebrates the creative process’, L’Officiel (13 July 2020): https://www.lofficiel.co.uk/fashion-week/show-in-a-box-loewe

    Brit Bennett, The Vanishing Half (Hachette 2020): https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/brit-bennett/the-vanishing-half/9780349701448/

    Lila Shapiro, ‘If You Can Perform Whiteness, Then What Does It Mean to Be White?’, Vulture (12 June 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/06/brit-bennett-the-vanishing-half-interview.html

    Helen Rappaport, Four Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Romanov Grand Duchesses (Pan 2015): https://helenrappaport.com/russia/four-sisters/

    Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/channel/willi-smith-street-couture/

    Willi Smith Community Archive: https://willismitharchive.cargo.site/

    Alexandra Cunningham Cameron (editor), Willi Smith: Street Couture (Rizzoli Electa 2020): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847868193/

    Stephen Burrows: https://stephenburrows.com/

    Scott Barrie: https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2020/06/scott-barrie.html

    Arthur McGee: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/29/fashion/arthur-mcgee-dead.html

    Robin Givhan, ‘Patrick Kelly’s Radical Cheek’, Washington Post (31 May 2004): https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/2004/05/31/patrick-kellys-radical-cheek/7f404cd3-6f4d-4f28-8a24-6a0b398dba45/

    Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/

    • 28 min
    The Invisible Man

    The Invisible Man

    We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below.

    Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man

    Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/

    Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/

    Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/

    Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/

    Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

    • 21 min
    Virtual Histories

    Virtual Histories

    We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below.

    Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/ma-history-art/documenting-fashion


    V&A, London, fashion exhibitions: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/exhibiting-fashion-victoria-and-albert-museum/5wKyuCOYoCgBIA?hl=en

    Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, fashion publications: https://tinyurl.com/tca9for

    Kwame Brathwaite: https://www.kwamebrathwaite.com/

    Tanisha C. Ford: http://www.tanishacford.com/

    The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/

    Ahluwalia: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/

    Jalebi, photographed by Laurence Ellis: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/jalebi-shop/jalebi

    Laurence Ellis: https://www.laurenceellis.com/

    ‘My heart will always be in Brixton’: Olive Morris - An exhibition of artwork by Linett Kamala inspired by the activism of Olive Morris, Google Arts & Culture (2020): https://artsandculture.google.com/story/XwWReH6wADe8xA

    Linett Kamala: https://linettkamala.com/

    Black Cultural Archives: https://blackculturalarchives.org/

    • 23 min
    David Copperfield

    David Copperfield

    Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/

    George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/

    Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazine/interviews/armando-iannucci-personal-history-david-copperfield-casting-modern-dickens-adaptation

    Melissa Bennett & Iyamide Thomas, ‘Meet the Krios of Sierra Leone’, Museum of London Discover (26 September 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/meet-krios-sierra-leone-docklands

    London’s Fashion Alphabet – K for Krio, Museum of London (2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet/londons-fashion-alphabet-k

    Beatrice Behlen and Christine Supianek, ‘Peopling the Pleasure Garden: Creating an Immersive Display at the Museum of London’, in Mary M. Brooks and Dinah D. Eastop (editors), Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress (The Getty Conservation Institute, 2017): https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/books/refashioning_redress.html

    Alison Toplis, ‘Smock Frocks: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue’, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245

    Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: www.smockfrock.co.uk

    • 23 min
    Jamel Shabazz

    Jamel Shabazz

    Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below.

    Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal

    Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola

    Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz

    Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper

    Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by Jame Shabazz (first published 2001): http://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/back-in-the-days/

    Jamel Shabazz, A Time before Crack (first published 2005): https://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/a-time-before-crack-limited-edition/

    Daryoush Haj-Najafi, ‘Jamel Shabazz: A Time Before Crack, Vice (27 May 2011): https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/qba9xm/jamel-shabazz-a-time-before-crack

    The Badila Family: https://www.facebook.com/TheBadilaFamily/

    Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick, Cumbria: https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb/c/about/company/derwent-pencil-museum

    • 26 min

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