Episode 7: Umbhinqo Imiphindo kwaXhosa

Umbhinqo;

Kubhinqa abatheni xa kutheni?

Narrated by Mama Makholi, a maker at the Willowvale Arts Center, she details for us which folds adorn which body and for what occasions.

Here we come to learn about isishuba and the colours that fashion male and female bodies kwaXhosa. In our conversation with Mama Makholi we try locate the historical roots of colours used kwaXhosa, when and why we wrap the body in this particular garment.

Umbhinqo - the act of folding cloth around the body is normally associated with the female form but with Mama Makholi we come to understand that ukubhinqa extends to all genders, it is a way of wrapping the body as a form of showing respect to ancestry.

Isishuba being the traditional garment for men kwaXhosa is made with certain specifications, Mama Makholi becomes our Fashion instructor, guiding us to come to appreciate the craftsmanship behind the garment.

As we listen to her one has to wonder if our modern day re-appropriations do not take away from these historical meanings of the cloth that fashions the body.



Community contributors 

The James Family

Mrs Kutazwa James 

The community yaku Gatyana 

Willowvale Arts Center and with special thanks to the Art Center Manager, Lukhanyo Muluse

Azola Krweqe

Ms Nobuhle James

Mrs Nokhaya Jilingisa

Mama Makholi

Willowvale Makers Co-op

Mr Mangaliso Jafta



Special thanks to the production team:

Executive Producer - Bongani Tau

Content Advisor - Sihle Sogaula 

Graphic Designers - 2DOTS Space Agency 



UN/FOLDING_RE/FOLDING_FOLDED is nestled under THE FOLD – a creative and collaborative research project led by the African Fashion Research Institute in partnership with Creative Nestlings Foundation for the New Narratives Programme 2023