How Fitting Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker

In episode 92, The Shortlist founder Laura Briggs gives us a detailed look at how her fun and cheeky petite-only brand has reached profitability. From pricing and production to business operations, Laura describes the growing pains she’s gone through and the huge milestones she’s reached as she’s scaled her 3-year-old business.



Laura was also my guest two years ago on How Fitting episode 37 where she talked about how she first started The Shortlist and what her first year of entrepreneurship looked like.



The Shortlist is a premium, limited edition petite fashion brand.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




Why Laura moved production from the UK to Poland



How many collections The Shortlist released before it became profitable



What the turning point was for profitability



What Laura is changing since realizing The Shortlist customer base is wider than she originally thought



The balance between innovative designs and familiar basics



How The Shortlist has built exceptional loyalty and repeat business from its customers



Laura’s genius system for celebrating how far the business has come at each step



The rollercoaster of launch day and what Laura is doing to minimize the challenges



How Laura balances sharing her personal entrepreneur story and The Shortlist brand voice in her marketing and copywriting



Laura’s plan for scaling The Shortlist this year



How Laura’s long-term goal for The Shortlist drives her decisions now




People and resources mentioned in this episode:




The Shortlist website



The Shortlist Instagram



The Shortlist LinkedIn




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In episode 91, hear how former opera singer Suzanne Vinnik designs bold, inclusive fashions that make women “feel seen” and encourage them to take up space for who they are. Knowing first hand what it is like to be exploited working in the arts, Suzanne runs her business differently. Her secret to success both on and off the stage is prioritizing community and personal relationships and paying everyone she works with living wages.



Suzanne Vinnik, a distinguished figure in both classical music and the fashion world, boasts a richly diverse career path. Originally traveling the world as an opera singer, Suzanne performed at renowned venues such as Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center, and notable opera houses across Europe, Russia, Norway and the United States. As a leading soprano, some of her favorite operas included "Manon Lescaut," Nedda in "Pagliacci," Mimi and Musetta"La bohème," and Violetta "La traviata," captivating audiences with her emotive performances.



Parallel to her operatic endeavors, Suzanne embarked on entrepreneurial ventures, founding Shoperatic, a pioneering social media network and marketplace tailored for women in classical music. This platform served as a hub for artists to connect, collaborate, and showcase their talents, solidifying Suzanne's reputation as an innovator within the industry. Users could buy, rent, sell and promote their outside skills. 



Driven by her passion for fashion and a commitment to inclusivity, Suzanne transitioned seamlessly into the realm of design, launching "byVINNIK," a luxury womenswear brand celebrated for its size-inclusive ethos and ethically manufactured garments. Based in the heart of Los Angeles, Suzanne's designs have graced the frames of Classical Music luminaries, Broadway stars, and prominent figures in television and film. 



The impact of Suzanne's creations extends beyond the realm of entertainment, with her designs featured prominently on platforms like Disney+, Netflix, and HBOMax's acclaimed series "The White Lotus," on Jennifer Coolidge earning recognition with an Emmy nomination for Outstanding Contemporary Costumes. Her work frequently adorns red carpets, editorial spreads, and stages worldwide, embodying a fusion of sophistication, elegance, and inclusivity.



Suzanne holds a Bachelor of Music in Vocal Performance from Texas Christian University, supplemented by studies at prestigious institutions such as Mannes College of Music and Otis College of Design. She further honed her craft at the Opera Studio of Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in Rome, mentored by the late Renata Scotto, and as an Administration Fellow at The Dallas Opera's Hart Institute for Women Conductors.



Beyond her artistic pursuits, Suzanne is a passionate advocate for entrepreneurship, ethical manufacturing practices, and classical music education. Her expertise as a textile connoisseur, style forecaster, and classical music aficionado has positioned her as a sought-after keynote speaker at conferences, and universities, and as an expert for popular TV Shows like Today Show and Access Hollywood. Through her inspiring journey from opera singer to fashion designer, Suzanne empowers women of all backgrounds to embrace their confidence and individuality, embodying the transformative power of artistic expression.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




Why Suzanne left a worldwide career in opera to start a fashion brand



The transformative power of owning your boldness and dressing accordingly



How Suzanne created a loyal community before she even started her brand



How the personal relationships she’s built with her clients influences her design decisions



Why ethical production and paying fair wages are so important to Suzanne



The people on Suzanne’s team and what they each do in the business



How By Vinnik’s production model has changed and why



How Suzanne prioritizes her day to not burn out even though she’s “bad at boundaries”



What

In episode 90, hear how Aja Cohen left her big corporate fashion career for a lifestyle - and fashion business - that put relationships and her values first. Transcendent Active is helping women embrace who they are and move confidently toward their goals. Her modest activewear designs aren’t just covering, but also comfortable, sustainable, and functional and are worn by more than just the modest community.



After designing fast fashion for over a decade, Aja Cohen launched an activewear brand for the woman she believed was not being spoken to in the marketplace - the modest woman.  At the time, she struggled to find modest activewear pieces that weren’t made of heavy, non-breathable fabrics or couldn’t wick sweat away properly. More importantly, she couldn't find brands that matched her strong ethical values of sustainability and locally made.  She knew there had to be a better option for women who wanted to workout, do good for Mother Earth, and honor their religious values.  Transcendent Active was born at the height of the Covid pandemic and combines eco-conscious fashion with strong ethical values.  Made in America from recycled plastic water bottles, the brand is committed to providing women of all faiths and sizes with high-quality, sustainable activewear. The signature All Day Active collection includes skirts, exercise dresses, quarter-sleeve tops, leggings, and bike shorts. Transcendent Active believes every woman deserves clothing that supports her lifestyle and faith while fostering confidence and style through movement.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




The positives and negatives of Aja’s corporate career in activewear design



Why knowing your customer is so important



How Aja has built a healthy business without selling on Amazon or manufacturing overseas



Why the pandemic was actually a great time to start a business for Aja



How Aja cultivates real connections and relationships with the people she works with



How Aja decides her priorities and delegates the work to get it done



How Aja approaches the difficult decisions of hiring and firing



How customer research has shaped Transcendent Active’s collection



Transcendent Active’s sustainability efforts



How to stay focused on your values




People and resources mentioned in this episode:




Transcendent Active website



Transcendent Active Instagram



Transcendent Active Facebook



Transcendent Active LinkedIn



Transcendent Active TikTok




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In episode 89, hear how Janet St Cyr & Diana Kerins have created a swim and resort brand inspired by nature and travel. Learn what this mother-daughter partnership did to land a dream collaboration with a luxury resort and how they are growing their business slowly and steadily.



Bambina is a women’s swim and resortwear brand owned and operated by mother-daughter duo Janet St Cyr and Diana Kerins. Their creations blend bold, vibrant aesthetics with unparalleled comfort to ignite confidence and happiness in those who wear them.



They’re committed to keeping production right here in the USA and their collections are sewn at a women-owned factory in the heart of New York City’s garment district.  From how they source materials to how they manufacture and package their products, they’re always learning and seeking out the most Earth-friendly ways to bring their collections to you. 



Bambina’s new resortwear launch for Summer ‘24 - The  Cardamom Collection, includes a beachwear robe and sarong featuring a custom print inspired by the endangered species of the Cardamom Rainforest in Cambodia. A percentage of proceeds from every sale will go towards The Wildlife Alliance to protect these beautiful and vulnerable creatures.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




How nature, the environment, and travel inspire Bambina Swim collections



What it is like working as a remote mother-daughter partnership



Why Bambina business started out sporadic and what changed for Janet and Diana to take it more seriously



What Janet and Diana look for and design in a quality garment



Why Janet and Diana are intentionally growing the business slowly



How Bambina gets its funding



How Janet and Diana landed a collaboration with a luxury resort to stock their recent collection



What Diana and Janet’s goals are for the future of Bambina




People and resources mentioned in this episode:




Get 10% off at bambinaswim.com with code: HOWFITTING



Bambina Swim website



Bambina Swim Instagram




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In episode 88, textile sourcing rep Jay Arbetman of The Sourcing District walks us through how to source wholesale fabric for your independent fashion brand - even in low quantities. Jay shares insights on fabric quality, sustainable fibers, and how to not spend months on your fabric search. With decades in the business, Jay knows what questions designers should ask and what has helped his longest-standing clients be so successful.



Jay has been in the garment and textile business since he was a teen. He spent the 1980's in NYC selling to department stores and specialty stores throughout the country. When he stopped making apparel, he started selling buttons and zippers and eventually morphed into fabric. He now represents 10 suppliers and sells to indie designers throughout the country.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




Why fashion brands should never buy fabric at retail stores



What makes the suppliers Jay represents ideal for independent designers



What designers need to have prepared before talking to a sourcing rep



How to source fabrics in-person, over the phone, and at trade shows



How to not spend months on your fabric search



The questions Jay wishes designers would ask



Do you get what you pay for when it comes to fabric?



The cost of made in the USA textiles



What MOQs and timeline to expect for sampling and production



What differentiates successful designers in the long run



What is new in sustainable textiles 




People and resources mentioned in this episode:




The Sourcing District website



Jay’s email



The Sourcing District Instagram



The Textile Show in Nashville April 3-4, 2024




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In episode 87, life-long lover of fashion and modest dresser, Rivky Itzkowitz, shares how she makes fashion work for her and other women like her through her brand Impact Fashion. Rivky seamlessly weaves her Orthodox Jewish values, skillful design and patternmaking, and fashion sense into each piece for sizes 2-28. 



Rivky Itzkowitz is a fashion designer living in NYC. As a practicing Orthodox Jew, she was frustrated at not being able to find modest clothes that actually fit, so she set out to create her own. Her company, Impact Fashion, is among the only size-inclusive modest fashion lines on the market. Every style is fitted to perfection and is available in sizes 2-28 because there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be. She is also the host of the Be Impactful Podcast where she sits down with the women making a difference in their own corners of the world. You can find her @impact.fashion.nyc and see all of her designs on impactfashionnyc.com. Listen to the Be Impactful Podcast wherever you get your podcasts.





In this episode, you’ll learn:




How Rivky has always her love of fashion fit her personal values



The real cost of offering inclusive sizes (hint: it’s not what you’d think)



Why good design and good fit require caring for bodies of all shapes and sizes



The insights Rivky gained from working as a seamstress doing alterations



How Rivky chose her business name - and why the name is not actually that important



The three values that Impact Fashion is built on



How Rivky developed the inclusive size chart for Impact Fashion



The reasons why Impact Fashion switched from being a wholesale line to selling only retail



How Rivky structures her days to get everything done



Why Rivky started her podcast, Be Impactful, and the results she’s seen after 200+ episodes




People and resources mentioned in this episode:




Impact Fashion website



Be Impactful podcast



Impact Fashion Instagram




Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.