The Climbing Doctor Podcast Jared Vagy

In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization.
Takeaways
Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence. Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety. Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity. Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing.  Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance. Beth Scott's Bio
My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. Chapters
00:00 Introduction 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health  33:17 Final Thoughts Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.
CONTACT BETH SCOTT: 17bethclark@gmail.com
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Soc

In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis.
 
Takeaways DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint. Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain. Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury. Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms. Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury. Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.
Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations 46:11 Returning to Climbing 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis Contact Steve Smith: stephen.smith.dpt@gmail.com
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session Recording Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.
Takeaways
Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique. Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon. Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at evan@mendcolorado.com for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free Consultations Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 YouTube Session Recording Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers:
Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos  Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency  Patrick's info and outro Contact Info:
IG: @kraftfactory email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers:
A history of The Rock Warrior's Way -- how it started and developed to what it is today Mental aspects of injury management with climbing Body awareness and mental flexibility  Arno's personal routine for sharpening his mind Coping with stressors in rehab and leveraging senses to live in the moment Arno's general advice and closing thoughts Contact Info:
https://warriorsway.com/ IG: @rockwarriorsway

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers:
Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro  Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting  Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's favorite drills  RR’s advice on injury management  Outro Robyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team. Additionally, Robyn is the founder of ABC Kids Climbing, an institution that has included the likes of Brooke Raboutou, Colin Duffy, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman.
Contact Info:
https://www.abckidsboulder.com/ IG: @robyn_erbesfield_raboutou