The Hungry Eye Looks At Ruth Reichl And The Screaming Focaccia

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I locked James out of the studio for this one.

Because Ruth Reichl – my hero, my origin story, my reason for existing – came to Chatham, New York, to judge the Great Chatham Bake-Off. And I, The Hungry Eye, the anonymous food critic for the podcast, had to be there. In the gazebo. In the humidity. Bearing witness.

In this episode, I take you to the center of it all in the village square as 30+ bakers compete for the coveted first place ribbon: There’s a pineapple-pistachio-bacon crumble cake. A focaccia interpretation of Edvard Munch's "The Scream." A one-year-old that I'm not quite convinced actually baked what they said he baked. 

Jack Shear, Betsy Thorleifson, and Ruth – each gracious, judicious, precise – guide us through the cakes, pavlovas, brownies, pies, cobblers, savories, and sweets, as they wield fate and crown the worthy.

It's an immersive experience on the show today, a show that is now proud to be a James Beard Award Winning-Adjacent podcast. And if you want the full hour-long conversation I had with Ruth (we talked about her NYT disguises, how she invented such personas as Chloe and Aunt Betty, and how I might improve my disguises as the anonymous food critic), it’s available to premium subscribers as an Audio Exclusive in The Jiffy-Mart Members' Lounge.

You can upgrade to a premium membership here.

Be sure to read Ruth's memoir of her time as the restaurant critic for the New York Times, "Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise."

Learn more about the Ellsworth Kelly Foundation here.

And follow Betsy Thorleifson on Instagram: @ninecakes

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"The Jiffy Audio Newsletter Podcast" is an audio documentary zine – the official podcast of The Jiffy – exploring the odd histories, cozy mysteries, and surprising characters of upstate New York. Each episode is an adventure, and new episodes drop every other week.

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Follow James on Instagram: @jamescave

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