The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn
  • 4.5 (367)
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
TRAININGBETA PODCAST

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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

  1. 4D AGO

    TBP 290: How to Effectively Train with a Busy Schedule - Coach Collin McGee

    Collin McGee (@liftsmcgee) is a personal trainer and coach at C4HP with Dr. Tyler Nelson. He is also a personal trainer and coach to athletes of all sports, ages, and abilities and he has a firm grasp on how to become a stronger, better athlete no matter what your objectives are. In this episode he breaks down the basics of training and how to get better at climbing even if you have a busy schedule. Here’s what he covers: Assessment Strength Training Power Training Endurance Flexibility Making a Plan

    1 hr

  2. MAY 28

    TBP 289: Climbing Training Success Story - How Doug Hartman Climbed His 1st 5.13a at 46

    Doug Hartman is a 46-year-old ER doctor from Oakland, CA who is married with 2 kids. He’s a busy guy, but he figured out how to optimize his training and climbing in order to send his first 5.13a at the age of 46. He’s going to tell you the main things he learned from podcasts and coaches that helped him the most, and a little bit of advice about how to be a good spouse and parent, even when you’re a passionate climber. The two main things Doug changed about his climbing were: Resting more Following a non-linear vs linear training program He wrote up an entire description of everything he changed and how he trains so you can peruse it for yourself. >See Doug’s Training Plan  Suggestions for Menopause/Perimenopause Guests In the beginning of the episode I asked for suggestions for guests to talk about their personal experience with perimenopause/menopause and clinicians who work with people going through menopause/perimenopause. I want to educate climbers about this topic because it’s super important and impactful, and doctors are not doing a good enough job of educating us. Please email me at neely@trainingbeta.com with your suggestions! I’d prefer to have people on who are also climbers.

    1h 12m

  3. MAY 14

    TBP 288: Climbing Training Success Story Using Nutrition and Weightlifting

    This interview with Jeff Rotkoff is about how he used simple information from the TrainingBeta Podcast to improve his climbing. Jeff is a 46-year-old climber from Austin, Texas, who has a full-time job and 13-year-old twins. So he’s a busy guy. He started climbing seriously about 9 years ago and started making these changes a few years ago. He learned one nutrition tip from me and one weightlifting tip from Matt from this podcast and was able to start climbing harder, doing more in his sessions, and feeling more resilient to injury. Listen up to hear exactly what he changed and how it affected his climbing. You can find Jeff on Instagram @rotkoff.

    55 min

  4. APR 30

    TBP 287: Trip Report and Lessons Learned from Matt’s Climbing Trip to Margalef

    Coach Matt Pincus recently got back from a 7-week trip to Margalef, Spain, where he intended to get into projecting mode and climb 5.14. It turns out that the weather was rainy and he didn’t reach that goal, but he came away from the trip with some insights about his own climbing and some wisdom for the rest of us. Matt is taking a few new clients right now if you’re interested in working with him on your own climbing training. You can find his services here. More Details: What his intentions and goals were for the trip What happened on his trip How to go into a trip to have a good time even while climbing at your limit What he learned from climbing with/near some of the world’s best climbers on this trip Train with Coach Matt Pincus at Discounted Rate Matt is taking 6 new clients for a 12-week stint with him at $260 per month instead of his normal $295 per month

    45 min

  5. APR 9

    TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

    I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

    52 min

  6. MAR 26

    TBP 285: Climbing Training Success Story - From 10a to 12a in 3 Months

    I recently asked my audience to tell me about their climbing training success stories so I could present them on the podcast, and I got some good ones! This story from Lea Cleary stood out to me and I think you're going to love it. Lea is a 40-year-old woman from Boston who's been climbing for 15 years. She felt like she'd plateaued due to fear and performance anxiety. While she'd tried our Performance Route Training Program and made strength gains, she still felt very held back by her performance anxiety.  Then she started working with Coach Alex Stiger and while they continued working on her strength training and climbing technique, they really worked on the mental aspects of climbing. When she started working with Alex, the hardest sport climb she'd sent outside was one 5.10a, and after about 3 months of work together, she surprised herself by sending a 5.12a ("Fear and Loathing" in Red Rocks) in just 4 tries!  Since then she's been regularly sending 5.11's in the gym and feels way less performance anxiety and fear while climbing. She's able to regularly get herself into a flow state while climbing and just enjoy the process instead of being all revved up about performing well.  In this episode, we talk about what she and Alex did together to help her change her mindset, some tools they used, how she stays in the moment while climbing, and what helped her most with performance anxiety.  I hope this episode gives you some motivation and confidence that you, too, can overcome plateaus in your climbing with a little intentional work!

    1h 1m

  7. MAR 12

    TBP 284: Overcoming Mindset Hurdles in Projecting with Sport Psychologist Madeleine Crane

    Madeleine Crane is a Sport Psychologist from Austria who runs www.climbingpsychology.com. In this episode we discussed the mental and emotional struggles that many people encounter while projecting climbs. Hopefully this discussion will help you bring awareness to your own mental experience and give you some tools to deal with fear of failure, negative comparison to others, and knowing when to call it quits on a project. Madeleine is offering a 30% discount on her mental skills training programs at unblocd.com using the code “trainingbeta” at checkout.

    1h 14m

  8. FEB 26

    TBP 283: Using Mindfulness to Overcome Fear and Anxiety in Climbing - Alex Bridgewater

    Alex Bridgewater is a Sport Psychologist who works with climbers and other athletes to help them be the best person they can be. That work carries over into their sport to make them perform well and have a great time doing it. He uses mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory as part of his practice, and in this episode we dive into what that means. Alex is also a climbing coach at ClimbStrong.com and has been for about 7 years. He recently finished his Master’s degree in Sport and Performance Psychology and now has a consulting business at www.InnerSourcePerformancePsychology.com, where you can work with him from anywhere in the world. What We Talked About How values play into climbing performance & training How to incoproate joy and play into climbing Mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory Mindfulness in injuries Mindfulness with fear in climbing Mindfulness exercises Who could use a sport psychologist Need Help with Your Climbing Training? TrainingBeta was started in 2012 to provide people with all kinds of resources about training for climbing. We offer expert advice on how to get stronger, braver, and more skillful in your climbing with these offerings: climbing coaching training programs online nutrition coaching mindset coaching for climbers injury rehab programs blog posts podcast episodes  We are here to help you with your climbing training needs! You can always email us at info@trainingbeta.com if you have any questions about what program or service is right for you. All Training Options

    1h 23m
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4.5
out of 5
367 Ratings

About

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

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