229 episodes

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast Neely Quinn

    • Sports
    • 4.6 • 349 Ratings

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

    TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

    TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

    In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls.
    We’re not going to get into the nitty gritty of sets and reps or specific ways to train in this episode, but you will likely find some nuggets that will help you Occam’s razor your climbing and training days.

    Show Links Do an hour coaching session with Matt Work with Matt as your coach Do Matt’s Bouldering Training Program Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com Train with Matt Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.
    You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.
    TRAIN WITH MATT
     

    • 1 hr 1 min
    What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

    What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

    In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard.
    I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb hard, but the truth is that we need food at regular intervals every day, especially when we’re trying to perform athletically at a high level.
    So I’ll tell you what foods to pack in with you, what kinds of nutrients to focus on, and how to structure your day so it feels doable to get all the food you need. Not only will this help your performance on that day, but it’ll also help you recover better so you don’t feel like you got hit by a truck the next day.
    This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did in 2020 in front of a live zoom audience. I talked for about 15 minutes on the topic and then took a bunch of questions from the audience (very common questions, so they’re quite relevant).
    Nutrition Podcast Episodes in This Series
    TBP 209 :: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
    TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
    TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
    TBP 175 :: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
     
    A Little about Me

    After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist.
    During those 4 years, I learned about not only nutrition, but herbs, homeopathy, and other alternative practices. I’ve been seeing clients since 2007 and I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013.
    Nutrition Coaching with Me If you’re looking for help with your own nutrition and you feel like you need personalized coaching, I’m taking new clients right now. I also have a program that is self-paced with 4+ hours of video from me, PDF’s, and meal plans laid out for you.
    LEARN MORE ABOUT MY NUTRITION OFFERINGS
     

    • 28 min
    The Limits of Fingerboard Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

    The Limits of Fingerboard Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

     




    In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.
    Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual rock climbing. He talks about the physiology of hangboarding and two potentially better ways to train finger strength.
    Tyler also wrote an article about this topic, which you can find here.
     
    About Tyler Tyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
    He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
    You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
     
    Other Episodes with Tyler TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Injuries in Youth Climbers
     
     

    Episode Links
    Article on this same topic Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store Do a consultation with Tyler Instagram: @c4hp Facebook: @camp4chiropractic Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.



     
     

    Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
    At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

    • 55 min
    Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

    Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

    In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic alactic system (power) and the differences between them.
    Then Matt goes through some different training methods for each and how to incorporate those into your training program. I also selfishly ask Matt about what I’m doing to train endurance to get his opinions on it, which was super helpful for me.

     
    Show Links Do an hour coaching session with Matt Work with Matt as your coach Do Matt’s Bouldering Training Program Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com

    • 1 hr 17 min
    Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

    Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

    This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there are more and more dogs at crags and boulders.
    Sometimes this is an amazing thing and sometimes dogs can be a little out of control. So I asked my dog trainer, Jenna Teti, to come on the show to shed a little light on some things we can do to get our dogs to behave better at the crag and boulders (and all the time).
    Jenna is the owner and Head Trainer & Behavior Consultant at Think Smart Dog Training out of Longmont, Colorado, where I live. She has a LOT of certifications in dog behavior, and here is her description of what she does from her website:
    As a behavior consultant, my goal is to go beyond teaching you and your dog skills. I work with the human client to help them better understand their dog and their behavior in a way that is informative and fun! With this deeper understanding of not just the individual dog but dogs as a whole, we can address behavior and approach it from a place of compassion and understanding that builds a stronger relationship with your canine companion as you work through the behavior modification process.
    Jenna has helped me a ton with our young heeler mix, Willa, by changing the way we approach training. We talk about that in this episode, along with crag behaviors such as being able to just chill while we’re climbing, not being reactive to people and dogs, coming when called, and more.
    I hope this helps you have a better experience outside climbing with your dog!
    Here’s my dog, Willa, trying to be a good girl at the crag 🙂

    More Details

    How she works compared to other famous dog trainers Difference between positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, and punitive training styles How to get your dog to chill at the crag and at home How to get your dog to relax without overexercising them Why she thinks it's fascinating that so many climbers have herding dogs How to improve the all-important recall ("come") with your dog How to train "leave it" for when your dog gets into something it shouldn't What to do instead of punishing a dog How much time to spend training each day Setting up an environment at the crag for success Her thoughts on e-collars
    Show Links
    Reach Program: www.trainingbeta.com/reach Reach Program Discount: Code “Reach” for $50 off the program Work with Jenna in person or online Email Jenna at hello@thinksmartdog.com Instagram @thinksmartdogtraining

    • 1 hr 32 min
    Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

    Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

    New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below.
    In the program, you’ll get a 4-week training program from Alex, a comprehensive nutrition course + one-on-one time with Neely, plus weekly live meetings with Alex and Neely and a lot more.
    As a podcast listener, you get $50 off the program using the code “Reach” at checkout.
    Use Code “Reach” at Checkout for $50 Off of Reach
    Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition In this episode, I talk all about how to figure out how many calories–how much food–you should be eating in your meals, snacks, and throughout each day in order to feel energized, climb well, and have the body composition that’s right for you.
    We’ll talk about how to objectively and mathematically determine what is a good calorie amount for YOUR body to help you be your best all day every day.
    As for the body composition portion of this episode, yes, I’m going there. This is a difficult subject because there’s so much anti-diet rhetoric out there that it’s almost sinful to talk about weight or fat loss at all. But MOST of my clients come to me wanting to lose weight, and they’ve been taught their whole lives how to do it all wrong.
    So my goal is to give people the same advice I give my clients: measured, sustainable methods for changing your body composition at a reasonable rate. I get pretty real in this episode and it’s not something I’ve really talked about much on this podcast before. I hope this real talk is helpful for you!
    This is a recording taken from a 5-day nutrition challenge I did in 2020 in front of a live zoom audience and I added some bits to the beginning and end about the topic.
    A Little about Me After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutrition certificate program at Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. I’ve worked exclusively with climbers since 2013.

     
    Show Links Reach Program: www.trainingbeta.com/reach Reach Program Discount: Code “Reach” for $50 off the program Episode on Carbohydrates Episode on Protein Episode on Meal Timing
     
    Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

     
     

    • 43 min

Customer Reviews

4.6 out of 5
349 Ratings

349 Ratings

Jlifts ,

Nailing it.

This podcast has been fantastic for my motivation. The wealth of knowledge shared here is worth so much. Everything from training, injury recovery, defining quality sessions and so much more. Thank you so much Neely for putting this together and bringing so many great people on the podcast!

ksmiles92 ,

Too Woke and political now

I’ve been listening for a few years now but sadly woke ness has infected our climbing community. I get a sense sometimes that Neely may be at least trying to keep it neutral, but it’s slipping. The girl who was on here saying capitalism is an evil scandal was ridiculous to me. Definition of liberal privilege. Capitalism is the reason you can screw off and go climbing while you contribute nothing to your career. Also if you are “passionate about climate change” you wouldn’t be working 20 hours a week. Get someone in there who cares about what they do. Climbing went from being a cool hippie dirtbag sport to being infected by rich liberal elitist. They are the only ones who can afford it anyways.

True Realist ,

Knocking it out of the park!

Recent series of interviews has been tremendous. This podcast just gets better and better.

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