The Nugget Climbing Podcast PREMIUM

Aidan answers questions from my Patrons about board training, finger training for The Midnight Project, reframing failures, developing local areas, Arnold Schwarzenegger posters, quitting climbing, favorite foods, hard projects, and more! We also had an honest chat about losing weight for climbing and some of the struggles we've both had with navigating eating.

Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Siblings, upbringing, and phones
(00:07:32) – Frankenstein climber continued
(00:21:20) – Board training
(00:28:57) – Finger training for The Midnight Project
(00:37:14) – Replicating failure points
(00:39:43) – Board training continued
(00:52:56) – Reframing potential failures
(00:57:39) – Accessing flow
(01:07:31) – Developing local areas
(01:15:20) – Arnold Schwarzenegger
(01:17:51) – Losing the path
(01:28:39) – Taking a step back
(01:31:10) – An honest chat about losing weight for climbing
(01:55:35) – Raspberries and a healthy palette
(01:59:22) – Beans
(02:00:20) – The Sams
(02:02:45) – V17 projects and reality checks
(02:04:23) – Excalibur
(02:08:35) – Aidan’s first 8A
(02:10:45) – Terrenova
(02:12:05) – Desert Island boulders and the Sisu project
(02:19:56) – Wrap up

Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.

We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.

Paul helps me rehab a minor A2 pulley injury in my pinkie, and he shares some general advice about pulley injuries. We were chatting after the podcast and I thought this might be helpful for some of you.

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention.

We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in our first episode:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi

Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.