The Australian climbing podcast. Chatting to the old school legends, modern day heroes and everyone else who make up our awesome community. Tune in for stories, opinions, training and nutrition info. Spreading the love.
Dave Jones, what is there to say other than legend! He was at the forefront of hard Australian climbing in the 90’s and early 2000’s. He established and repeated many of the hardest routes and boulders in The Grampians and Arapiles in this time. He wasn’t just a one trick pony of hard edge pulling though, his list of scary trad lines is up there as well. His ground up first ascent of Shai-Hulud, 25X is a stand out of complete mind control. Those unfamiliar with the route, it’s 45m of vertical and overhung sandpit climbing on Taipan wall. You don’t see many climbers these days as well rounded as Dave.
Setting the scene with Pat Banda and Dan Gordon
What does the inside of the indoor climbing gym scene look like? We sit down with Pat Banda and Dan Gordon and discuss setting, building culture, creativity, holds and much much more. Pat and Dan are head setters with Urban Climb, perhaps the biggest climb gym business in Australia. They know what's what. It's a super interesting insight to a world we really only see the top layer of.
Climber's Dirty Tricks? Yay or Nay
Where is the line drawn between a clever tactic and cheating? The evolution of climbing tactics and trickery is constantly evolving, generation to generation. When has it gone too far though? In this episode Helen Day and Lee Cujes join Tom and Amanda to discuss s few current trends and where the line is for us.
Tom O'Halloran Australian Olympian - Sport Climbing
Tom O'Halloran has now qualified to represent Australia in Sport Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics. The Oceania Climbing Championships were held at the end of 2020 giving one athlete for each gender from the region a chance to represent their country at the Olympics. Tom talks about his early climbing journey, (unknowingly) meeting Adam Ondra for the first time, competitions and transitioning from outdoor to indoor climbing. We also get into the decision making process to go for the Olympic spot, the dark headspace in the lead up to the comp and how it changed during the competition. Plus what it may take for Australia to get onto the podium on the world stage.
Oceana Mackenzie qualified for Australia in the female category.
4 reasons we didn't send
We've all fluffed up a send. In this episode, Leah Dempsey and Matt Norgrove join Amanda and Tom to discuss why we haven't sent something. Each route has something to teach us and here's a few lessons we've learnt.
Duncan Brown - Athlete and Adventure by Choice
Duncan Brown is a climber, coach and great guy. We talk about his approach to coaching adventure athletes, accountability in training, the evolution of what inspires him, spending 4 summers on Ozymandias and developing new routes in China. There's a classic story at the end where he tells us about the time he helped Dani Andrada bolt one of the worlds hardest multi pitches.
He is also the man behind Athlete by Choice and has recently announced he'll be opening a dedicated mountain sport training facility in Canberra, Mountain Strong. Be on the lookout in early 2021.
Finally, an awesome Australian climbing podcast! I’m hooked! Great topics, great conversation. So cool to have a podcast where the hosts are the people actually doing the stuff - there aren’t many sports podcasts where the olympians are the ones doing the interviewing!
Frothing about climbing!!
I’m under no illusions that I will ever get up a climb that is graded with a 3 as the first number (I might be able to punch it out if it is the only number in the grade). So it is a privilege to hear from those who can do so and about a side of the sport that I’m not involved in.
The hosts Tom and Amanda are very generous to their interviewees who themselves are both interesting, engaging and kind. But through it all you can feel the flame of passion for climbing.
See above 😅