The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast

In this extra episode I explain how you can use a communication tool called DEARMAN to kindly ask a belayer who you don't feel safe with to make some changes to help you feel safer. A lot of people experience bad belays, and unfortunately, some people don't feel comfortable being belayed by even their most frequent partner. That can make them unwilling to try hard above their bolts, which can take the fun out of climbing. And it can cause a lot of tension in the relationship. So you can use this tool - or this exact conversation I lay out for you - to kindly but firmly request that changes be made.

You can use this tool with legitimately ANY difficult conversation you want to have. It helps take any accusations and insults out of the equation, it keeps the conversation focused on your requests and your feelings, and it helps the person understand that you really care about them and want to make this situation better for both of you. It's a win-win.

Author, psychologist, researcher, and clinician Aric Prather, PhD  talks about the practical advice he wrote about in his book The Sleep Prescription: 7 Days to Your Best Rest and the work he does in his sleep clinic. In this interview he offers clear steps to help you sleep better so you can feel more recovered, energetic, and calm in life and in climbing. 
Things people do to help them sleep that actually undermine sleep
How to use cognitive behavioral therapy to sleep
How to properly wind down before sleep
Thoughts on drugs and supplements for sleep
Using sleep diary
Importance of standardized wake-up time
Using sleep deprivation to increase “sleep drive” to eventually improve sleep
How to deal with rumination that keeps you awake
Bonus Content on Patreon
There’s some bonus content from this episode on Patreon.
what he thinks of the drug I was on (mirtazapine) for sleep and histamine use for sleep
why my alphabet game puts me to sleep most of the time
some thoughts on biomarker testing to figure out why you’re not sleeping
why nightly wake-ups might not be so abnormal.
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page. 
Help support the show and get nutrition and mindset coaching on Patreon. 

In this bonus episode, I get personal with Aric and ask him his thoughts on long-term usage of the drug I was on for 10 years to help me sleep, and we talk more in-depth about drugs for sleep in general.

We also talk about why an alphabet game I use to go to sleep actually helps and might help you, too. We discuss some testing that might be able to be done to help figure out why you're not sleeping, how menopause can affect sleep, and the fact that biphasic sleep (waking up in the night and then going back to sleep some time later) is actually quite normal historically and why it's so stressful for us now.

I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like.
We looked at three case studies:
The 9-5 employee
Shift workers (health care workers, etc)
Parent who may or may not have a job
Things We Covered
How to fit training in even on work days for a shift worker
What to do on days off after shift work stint is over
Nutrition tips for shift workers
Should 9-5’ers focus on bouldering to make the most of their time?
How often to be training and climbing
Making sure to vary sessions
Different climbing/training schedules for weekend warriors
How to avoid overtraining
Importance of having a plan B if you’re a parent
Usefulness of home walls for parents
Bonus Content on Patreon
Patreon Bonus Content
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
How to know what’s right for YOU
Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
What is “training” exactly?
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
GET THE RAW INTERVIEW AND BONUS CONTENT

At the end of the interview about full-time working climbers, we talked about the following just for subscribers:

- Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
- How to know what training is right for YOU
- Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
- How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
- What is “training” exactly?

For more nutrition and mindset advice, go to the TrainingBeta Patreon

This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on Steven throughout the interview. Thank you to Steven for having me on the show again. I always love talking to him :) 
After the interview, we did some bonus questions from his patrons about nutrition, coaching, and the business side of things. We get into it about being entrepreneurs and what it's really like for me/us as business owners, and you can find that plus the uncut video of this interview on the TrainingBeta Patreon.