Lattice Training Podcast Lattice Training

In today's Lattice Podcast, Coach Josh Hadley sits down with Dr Simon Fryer to discuss the challenges of testing rock climbers, highlighting the differences between climbing and other sports.


Dr Simon Fryer is a Senior Lecturer in Sport & Exercise Physiology at the University of Gloucestershire, with a PhD in biomedical science. His background is in sports, exercise, and biomedical science, with a specialist interest in cardiovascular and cardiometabolic physiology. As an exercise physiologist, he delivers a range of Sports and Exercise Science courses and his research focuses on the impact of exercise and physical activity on health, disease, and sports performance, specifically concerning the cardiovascular and cardiometabolic systems. He has also delivered many talks on the importance of physical activity and health, such as his TEDx Cheltenham talk "Are You Sitting Comfortably?"


Key topics include:
Health benefits of climbingMisguided information in the climbing communityThe inconvenient truth about getting good at climbingImportance of base training and lower limb strengthAdvice for pursuing an academic or research route

We also cover:
Importance of peripheral adaptations in climbing and the role of aerobic fitnessCurrent best practices for testing climbers, including occlusion tests and near-infrared spectroscopyVision for the future of climbing performance testing, including the use of big data and technology

So whether you’re a sports science advocate, or simply curious to hear more of the science behind climbing, take a seat and enjoy today’s podcast through Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 



The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

May seem like an obvious question, but in this podcast highlight, Nate Williams shares his experience with projecting Return of the Sleepwalker, a V17/9A boulder problem, and the challenges he faces with friction control and conditions. Nate also talks about his projecting and beta sharing with Will Bosi, and how they optimise weather and friction conditions for best attempts.
Tune in to the full episode highlight on Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 
#LatticeTraining #LatticePodcast #BurdenOfDreams #Projecting #ClimbingTraining #Bouldering #Klettern


The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today’s Lattice Training podcast, coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cam Hartley to discuss three key areas; 


Training myths and misconceptionsPsychobiology and endurance performanceImportance of consistency in training for climbing

Cam is not just one of the strongest members of the Lattice Training coaching team, but also has a BSc in Sports Science and wrote his research paper on the strength differences between the strongest and weakest hand. Since then he has begun a PhD on the impact of mental fatigue on health and performance in rock climbing athletes.


As Cam is a specialist in psychobiology and its relationship to performance, Josh and Cam start to explore the psychobiological model of endurance performance and its implications for training and performance. They also delve into the aerobic and anaerobic thresholds and the importance of training in specific zones to optimise endurance. So if you are psyched about training your endurance and improving performance, this is a great episode for you! 


So whether you want to understand how to improve your endurance training, or just looking to debunk some climbing training myths, tune in to today’s show. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 



The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

People regularly get confused between a pulley strain and an irritation of the tendon, which Huffy has called 'crimp finger'. In this podcast highlight it explains the differences between the two to enable you to diagnose the correct injury so that you can seek the correct treatment. 
This podcast highlight is a snippet of our podcast with GB climbing physio,  which covers various topics related to climbing injuries and rehabilitation.
Tune in to the full episode highlight on Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this week’s podcast, join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley, as he is joined by pro climber, Nate Williams, who has been projecting ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ (V17/9A) in Las Vegas, USA, which recently saw its second ascent, by Will Bosi in February 2024. Nate’s been working on this well-known climb for over 2 seasons, since sending the stand-start version ‘Sleepwalker’ (V16/8C+) back in December 2020. In this episode, we delve into Nate's climbing journey, understanding the intricacies of this famous V17/9A boulder problem and how this recent ascent changes what he will do next.


Nate discusses his past, growing up and being mentored by Jimmy Webb, his conversations with Daniel Woods discussing a new boulder that later became Sleepwalker, and how he went from competing nationally to being a fully outdoors climber. Josh delves into his remarkable journey and learns what it takes to project at your limit and unlock new potential.


Other topics include:


Who is Nathan Williams?How Jimmy Webb influenced Nate’s style of climbingThe commitment to the process of projecting and how what to think about when choosing a boulder at your limitDifferences between the stand (Sleepwalker, V16/8C+) and the sit (Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A)How to  build friction and how holds differ in their textureSupporting Will Bosi with his recent ascent and differences in their approachWhat is next for Nate after ROTS?

And much more!


Tune in for this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! As we discuss the ripple effect of Will Bosi's recent ascent of "Return of the Sleepwalker" and its implications for Nate's own journey. 






The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson. James recently established ‘Bon Voyage’ (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport.


James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life’ (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.⁣


Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system.


The experience turned out to be a turning point for James.  He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life’ and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe’ (E11) and ‘Lexicon’ (E11 7a).


So when James established  'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra, successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade.


In this episode, James dives deep into:


Sharing ‘Bon Voyage’ with Adam Ondra
What makes this route unlike anything else out thereAdam Ondra’s approach to riskWhat beta Adam Ondra used for this epic routeWho else is trying ‘Bon Voyage’The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage’
This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends!


Don't miss this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.