BETA 5 Matt Chapman

E18: In this episode of Beta 5 we chat with the Olympian, Kyra Condie - about her brightest and darkest moments at the Games, competition nerves, idiopathic scoliosis, self-pity, and turning strengths into super powers!

E17: In this first episode of Season 2, we chat with Bouldering World Champion, Natalia Grossman - about her first World Cup win earlier this season, idiotic comments on social media, preparation for competition, the practice of gratitude, and chocolate cake!

Natalia Grossman winning her first Bouldering World Cup, in Salt Lake City: (1:42:34) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg

Follow her on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nataliaclimbs/?hl=en

E16: In this, the final episode of Season 1, we chat with Kai Lightner about the climbing ratio: strength to body weight. Kai also shares about his non-profit C4C, Climbing for Change, and the amazing work they are doing! *Please note, the issues we discuss in this episode my be triggering for some. Please see below for support resources.

Kai's Post: "Reflections on my Rock climbing Journey:" http://www.kai-lightner.com/blog/reflections-on-my-rockclimbing-journey

Climbing 4 Change: https://climbing4change.org/

Support Resources for Eating Disorders: 

US: https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/

US: https://anad.org/

CAN: https://www.eatingdisorderstreatment.ca/

CAN: https://nedic.ca/contact/

E15: In this episode we chat with a young up-and-coming artist about his story of coming out, and how learning to value who he was became the onset of his success story. Whether or not you are a high performance athlete, we can only ever be the best version of ourselves, when we learn to love and value who we are.

Daniel's website: https://www.danielstudio.org/art

Daniel's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realtimeartho/?hl=en

E14: In this episode I share 4 foundational rules for getting stronger. I also share a little of my growing up story, and how I built a fitness and training methodology that stayed with me for 35 years.

Link to the Guinness World Record for the 1 finger / 1 arm pull up:

https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/423701-most-one-finger-one-hand-chin-ups-in-one-minute

E13: In this episode we explore why people always seem to trip when running away from zombies... And how this is directly connected to the Olympics and competition climbing. Why do athletes “choke” in a competitive environment? What is "pressure," and how does it affect us? We cover some essential mental skills for preparing athletes for the big event, or for preparing anyone to face the moment that counts.

Video of Natalia Grossman on the final boulder of the World Cup in Salt Lake City: (time code: 1:42:35)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg