Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty Support Clotheshorse!

In honor of Amanda's video with More Perfect Union, let's get into why new clothes are kinda garbage these days!
New clothes ARE kinda garbage these days, from low quality synthetic fabrics to zippers that are a problem from the very first wear to lack of detail and poor fit.  And the low quality and short lifespan of this clothing is creating an environmental and ethical crisis for the planet and its people. Why are these clothes just so bad? In this THREE part series, Amanda breaks down the hidden reasons that new clothing is kinda garbage. This episode covers the following:
What is planned obsolescence and how does it impact cars, phones, electronics...and clothing?The process of clothing creation, from design to sample to finished product.The changes buyers make to hit the profitability targets set by company leadership.How fabric is a big part of the formula (and why so many garments are synthetic now).How overproduction is impacting product quality.Also in this episode, an audio essay from Elysha of Worth Mending, @worthmending on Instagram.
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.
Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.
Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their websi

The future of fashion is small, ethical, and circular. The problem right now? Big businesses control the supply chain, making it really hard for small brands and designers to succeed. FABRIC is working to change that by building a fully circular supply chain here in the United States, powered by many, many small businesses.
In this episode, Amanda is joined by Angela Johnson, co-founder of FABRIC. This episode discusses the following:
Angela’s experiences as a designer, both at the beginning of her career, and as she started her own brand.We’ll get a little nostalgic with some conversation about her time working at X-Girl, an iconic 90s brand founded by Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth) and Daisy von Furth. And oh yeah, we’re also going to talk about Days of Our Lives.Angela will explain how everything she learned working in the garment industry in LA (along with her loyalty to her home state of Arizona) led her to create a fashion incubator in Tempe, Arizona.We will also hear more about the vision for the Eco Parc, a fully circular fashion manufacturing hub and what it will take to bring that to life.And we will round that all out by talking about how important it is to keep up this work, even on the days when it is really hard.Find FABRIC on IG:  @fabrictempe
And HEY! BUY YOUR TICKETS TO THE CLOTHESHORSE JAMBOREE ASAP!
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.
Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.
Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently o

This episode is part 3 in a short series about SHEIN: where it’s been, where it’s going, and how it is changing everything. If you haven’t listened to parts one and two yet, go do that before listening to this episode.
In this part of the series, we will be tackling the human impact of SHEIN:
Unpacking the meaning of "sustainability" using the UN's Sustainable Development Goals as a measuring stick for figuring out just how sustainable fast fashion isHow the early days of SHEIN  might indicate something about the priorities and values of SHEIN's founderWhat it’s like to work for SHEIN in the garment factories and here in the U.S.That embarrassing SHEIN influencer trip and other bad faith marketing movesSHEIN’s connection to forced labor and how that ties into the de minimis loophole How SHEIN becoming the standard for making and selling clothing will impact everyone, even people who have never bought anything from the brandHow WE can change SHEIN's trajectory (yes, we really can)
Additional reading (lots of sources again this week):
UN Sustainable Development Goals"Fast Fashion Report Cards Show What’s Really in Your Clothes,"  Phoebe Sedgman and Jennifer Creery, Bloomberg."New study links major fashion brands to Amazon deforestation," Laura Pitcher, The Guardian."How fashion is distancing itself from deforestation," Rachel Cernansky,  Vogue Business.This is What Minimum Wage Would Be If It Kept Pace with ProductivityLiving Wage Calculator"Shein invited influencers on an all-expenses-paid trip. Here's why people are livid," Vanessa Romo, NPR."Shein exploited marginalized women for their influencer trip. It worked," Elizabeth de Luna, Mashable.Toiling Away for SHEIN, Public Eye."Untold: Inside the Shein Machine review," Jack Seale, The Guardian."PR Platitudes and New Laws: Where is Shein heading?," Public Eye."After a UK Documentary Revealed Abuses, Shein Says it Will Spend $15 Million Improving Labor Conditions," Emma Burleigh, Observer."Interviews with factory employees refute Shein’s promises to make improvements," Public Eye."Inside North Korea's Forced Labor Program," Ian Urbina, The New Yorker."Fast, Cheap, and Out of Control: Inside Shein’s Sudden Rise," Vauhini Vara, Wired."The Search for the Next Shein," Chavie Lieber, Business of Fashion.
And HEY! BUY YOUR TICKETS TO THE CLOTHESHORSE JAMBOREE ASAP!
If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.
Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and acces

This episode is part 2 in a short series about SHEIN: where it’s been, where it’s going, and how it is changing everything. If you haven’t listened to part one yet, go do that before listening to this episode.
In this part of the series, we will be tackling:
An update on SHEIN's IPO plans.Why and how SHEIN's low prices are unnaturally and unethically low.How SHEIN’s byzantine corporate structure virtually shields it from any legal accountability.SHEIN is infamous for stealing designs from artists and smaller brands. And also big brands! How is it doing that?How the way SHEIN runs its business could be endangering its customers (along with the people making its products).Additional reading (lots of sources again this week):
"Experts say Shein’s U.S. IPO is all but dead," Ece Yildirim, CNBC."Shein sought to reassure US over China supply chain ahead of IPO," Financial Times."Shein’s London IPO plan in regulatory limbo as investors grow jittery, sources say," Coco Feng and Wency Chen, South China Morning Post."Shein UK breaches company law by failing to disclose human owner," Julia Kollewe, The Guardian."Shopping platform Shein poised to take major U.S. market share. UBS thinks these companies will be hurt most," Alex Harring, CNBC."Shein stole my design so I’m spilling all the tea and it’s PIPING HOT.""40+ Businesses Shein Stole Designs From: The Complete List," Ethically Dressed."‘Details I made, they made’ – designers hit back at Shein’s imitation game," Ellie Violet Bramley, The Guardian."Shein’s fast fashion comes with fast-finance risks," John Foley, Reuters.
"Artists Accuse Fashion Brand Shein of Using AI to Steal Their Designs," Maya Pontone, Hyperallergic."China’s Fast-Fashion Giant Shein Faces Dozens of Lawsuits Alleging Design Theft," Dan Strumpf, Wall Street Journal."New Lawsuit Lifts the Lid on Shein's AI-Powered Ultra-Fast Fashion Model,"The Fashion Law."How bots are stealing artwork from artists on Twitter," Tim Gerken, BBC."Experts warn of high levels of chemicals in clothes by some fast-fashion retailers," CBC News."Taking the shine off SHEIN: Hazardous chemicals in SHEIN products break EU regulations, new report finds," Greenpeace Germany."Seoul finds high levels of toxic chemicals in Shein products," AFP."What “Millennial Gray” Is, and Why It Has TikTok in a Tizzy," Apartment Therapy.
And HEY! BUY YOUR TICKETS TO THE CLOTHESHORSE JAMBOREE ASAP!
Want to take advantage of the payment plan?
Each payment is $50, spread over 4 payments.The first one happens when you buy your ticket.  You will use promo code INSTALLMENT1 at checkout (when you enter your payment info).  You will be charged $50 and you will receive your actual ticket via email immediately. Amanda will send you a link to pay the remaining payments on 6/25, 7/25, and the week of the jamboree.If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicate

SHEIN has–and is– changing what it means to buy and sell clothing on planet Earth.  And it’s not a change for the better. It’s a change we should all care about, no matter where WE buy our clothing. Because SHEIN and what it means for the future of making and selling just about any category of stuff WILL impact every one of us: no matter what we wear, where we live, the kind of job we have, or how much money we have. 

The SHEIN-ification is such a big deal, so impactful for every one of us, that this episode is part 1 in a short series about SHEIN: where it’s been, where it’s going, and how it is changing everything.

In this part of the series, we will be tackling:
SHEIN’s impending IPO. And WTF is an IPO?How SHEIN grew and grew and grew (blame 2020 and sweatpants).What in the heck is the de minimis loophole and how is this benefiting SHEIN?And, are there really empty airplanes flying back to China every day so they can be loaded back up with SHEIN and Temu parcels?Also, an update on the Fashion Act and how/why we are still in the early stages of the fight to end fast fashion!
Thanks to this episode's sponsor, Made by MLE, @madebymle on Instagram.  Use code CLOTHESHORSE to receive 10% off your first order!
Additional reading (lots of sources this week):
Maxine's statement about the Fashion ActWhat is an IPO?"NEW REPORT FINDS SHEIN EMITS MORE POLLUTION THAN THE COUNTRY OF PARAGUAY," Janelle Sessoms, Fashionista."What’s ‘Really Scary’ About Shein’s Breakneck Growth," Jasmin Malik Chua, Sourcing Journal."NRF rejects Shein membership as retailer pursues U.S. IPO," Gabrielle Fonrouge, CNBC.  Financial Times."Fast fashion retailer Shein hikes prices ahead of IPO," Helen Reid, Reuters."Synthetics Anonymous 2.0: Fashion’s persistent plastic problem," Changing Markets Foundation."You’re Buying So Much From Temu And Shein The Air Cargo Industry Can’t Keep Up," Cyrus Farivar, Forbes."The Time Has Come to Address the De Minimis Loophole," Timothy Lyons, Vermont Law Review."Labor unions, domestic manufacturing groups launch coalition to reform de minimis import loophole," Chelsea Cox, CNBC.
And HEY! BUY YOUR TICKETS TO THE CLOTHESHORSE JAMBOREE ASAP!
Want to take advantage of the payment plan?
Each payment is $50, spread over 4 payments.The first one happens when you buy your ticket.  You will use promo code INSTALLMENT1 at checkout (when you enter your payment info).  You will be charged $50 and you will receive your actual ticket via email immediately. Amanda will send you a link to pay the remaining payments on 6/25, 7/25, and the week of the jamboree.If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different cha

Amanda is joined by Dr. Colleen Pokorny, Assistant Professor of Apparel Design at Oregon State University. Before making the shift to education, Colleen was a technical designer in the world of fast fashion.  And there is so much to cover in this episode:
What is a technical designer?How has the speed of fast fashion made clothing fit even worse?Why aren't clothing sizes standardized here in the US?Why do your product reviews matter?How do we set students up for a better transition from school to the fashion industry? And how can schools prepare designers for a more sustainable future?What does a more sustainable future for the fashion industry look like?Why and how did Colleen leave the fashion industry? And does she have any advice to share with us?And somehow, we will also talk about Trader Joe’s and how it has been caught behaving like fast fashion. Also, Amanda shares her own experience escaping the fashion industry.
About Colleen:Dr. Colleen Gelhaus Pokorny is an Assistant Professor of Apparel Design at the Oregon State University. Her research interests include sustainability trends impacting apparel product design and development; how cultural and technical innovations influence craft and design processes; and how design technologies can address gaps in diversity, equity, and inclusion. Her current research examines how designers revalue material culture through sustainable design processes when upcycling quilt materials into fashion garments. Before pursuing her Ph.D., Colleen was a Technical Designer for seven years at Thirty-one Gifts and Abercrombie & Fitch. She specialized in men's knitwear, thermal and home soft goods, and handbags. You can read more about Colleen’s research at https://hdl.handle.net/11299/258647 and https://business.oregonstate.edu/users/colleen-pokorny. Or follow along on her various quiltmaking adventures @Cpokorny
Additional reading:"We need to talk about Trader Joe's," Adam Reiner, Taste."Trader Joe’s Threatened Workers Ahead Of Union Vote, Feds Allege," Dave Jamieson, HuffPost."‘Just lie after lie’: Inside the fight to unionize at Trader Joe’s," Gabriel Thompson, Capital + Main.
And HEY! BUY YOUR TICKETS TO THE CLOTHESHORSE JAMBOREE ASAP!
Want to take advantage of the payment plan?
Each payment is $50, spread over 4 payments.The first one happens when you buy your ticket.  You will use promo code INSTALLMENT1 at checkout (when you enter your payment info).  You will be charged $50 and you will receive your actual ticket via email immediately. Amanda will send you a link to pay the remaining payments on 6/25, 7/25, and the week of the jamboree.If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world
Did you actually read this far into the show notes? First off, thank you.  Secondly...if you're the first person to email me, I will give you a free ticket to the Clotheshorse Jamboree.
Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse
Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:
The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com
St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you tho