The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast

Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber talks about how you can train efficiently rather than overtraining in order to get more out of your sessions.

In this episode for subscribers only, Charlie Schreiber talks about how to train power endurance, and he gets very scientific about it.

- How to train power endurance
- How to test components of power endurance
- Protocols he uses on boulders
- Qualitative parameters for stopping a session
- Using timers, different workouts you can do
- Training power endurance on routes

Climbing coach Karly Rager discusses the reasons your training and climbing in the gym often don’t quite prepare you for outdoor climbing, and what to do about it.

I do a mindset coaching session with climber Robynne Murray about her negative body image to find tools for her to have less shame about her body and more of a sense of belonging in this community. Work with me on your own negative body image at www.trainingbeta.com/mindset.

Jesse Grupper is a 27-yr-old climber who frequents podiums at international competitions, has climbed up to 5.15a and has flashed up to 5.14c. He is an amazing climber. AND I LOVE watching Jesse Grupper in climbing comps. His infectious smile, his tenacious try-hard, and his incredible climbing strength and skills are exactly why I watch climbing comps in the first place. I was so thrilled that he agreed to an interview, and I asked him a lot of questions about his approach to climbing, his detailed training program, how he maintains a positive mindset while climbing and competing, and how he’s coping with a current finger injury.

Jesse Grupper is a 2024 Olympian who frequents the podium at World Cups and other comps, and has climbed up to 5.15a (9a+) and flashed up to 5.14c (8c+). He's also an unbelievably positive, thoughtful, caring inspiration of a climber who I was honored to chat with on the show. This is a bonus interview I did with him beyond the public show.

The first question I asked him was about respect because I've been thinking about it and talking about it a lot with my mindset clients. We all want to be respected as climbers so we can belong in the community, so I wanted to know what one of the most elite climbers in the world respects about other climbers and who he looks up to himself. We also talked about what might happen if the women competed against the men in World Cups, how he fuels himself nutritionally, and how he deals with his ulcerative colitis.

Subscribe to support the show and get bonus content like this!