California Wine Country

Steve Jaxon & Dan Berger
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California Wine Country

A weekly radio show and podcast all about the business, science and pleasure of wine. Our guests are the all-star team of the most interesting and influential winemakers in the business, who bring in their favorite wines for tasting. There are always interesting stories behind each vintage and each guest, all in a relaxed, down-to-earth atmosphere.

  1. 8 NOV

    Nalle Winery with Doug Nalle

    Doug Nalle, co-founder of Nalle Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time Doug was on the show was this episode of April 19, 2023. Doug Nalle and Dan Berger have been friends for fifty years. They have three Chardonnays to taste. First, a 2021 Chardonnay from Hopkins Ranch. Doug and his wife Lee founded the winery in 1984 and they just finished their 41st harvest. They produce about 2000 cases per year. Mostly they make Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. Their Chardonnay is about 200 cases. Doug’s son Andrew is the winemaker now. He got a degree in enology from Fresno State. His wife April is a viticulturalist who went to Australia for training and works with the winery. They have roughly 24 acres of grapes and they use some and sell some. His wife’s family bought property in Dry Creek Valley 95 years ago and it is still in the family. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. Doug has brought two 2021 Zinfandels. Dan describes the Nalle property as “spectacular.” They have an above-ground cave. It is grade level with retaining walls on two sides. There are 6 feet of dirt stacked inside the walls, so the interior is naturally cool like an underground space. Back in the 80s and 90s Zinfandel was a moderate alcohol wine, between 13 and 14 % ABV. Then the trend was for higher ABV but Doug did not follow that trend. Vertical tasting of 3 Chardonnays They are tasting the 2021, 2022 and 2023 Chardonnays from Bob and Tony Hopkins’ vineyard in Russian River Valley. The 2021 is smooth and pure fruit. The 2022 has an extra layer of something. Nalle Winery is open Friday Saturday and Sunday and maybe other days too at 2383 Dry Creek Road. Exit in Healdsburg and go west about 2.1 miles to their sign. The 2023 is young, obviously and has barely been bottled. It is interesting to taste one that is so young just to know where the wines start out. Then the starting point for aging is five years, in Dan Berger’s opinion. Doug Nalle give credit to his son Andrew for the quality of the 2023. Andrew just finished a Masters degree in Enology at Fresno State. He studied particular strains of yeast and ways to use them. Zinot Noir Zinot Noir is something Doug and Andrew came up with by blending 60% Zinfandel and 40% Pinot Noir. They liked it for the forward fruit of Zin plus some "mysterious Pinot Noir thing going on." It is a modest 13.65 ABV and they made only 280 cases of it.

    34 min

  2. 1 NOV

    Melissa Galliani and Dan Berger

    Meissa and Dan. California Wine Country today features Melissa Galliani, GM of Wine Country Radio, with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Melissa is a frequent guest on the show, and was with us most recently on this episode with winemaker Dennis McCarter. Dan Berger’s first wine today is a 2023 that comes from Bibiana Ravé called Shared Notes. It is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, aged on the lees for a long time. That is what gives it a silky texture. It sells for $80 and it is hard to find because they don’t make very much of it. Next is a Vermentino. Where the last wine is subtle, this one is “in your face.” Dan Berger made this Vermentino himself. This is the 2023 bottling. The grower in Carneros is Las Brisas Vineyard. It is on a rise that overlooks the bay. There aromas of peaches and a little bit of pineapple. It is 100% natural and sells for $28 on Dan’s Bahl Fratty website. "...almost effervescent on the tongue," as Melissa observes. This is Dan’s second year of making wine and he has moved his operation to a new location. The Vermentino was made at Ektimo Winery. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. Gruner Veltliner The next wine is a Gruner Veltliner from Austria. It’s the most popular white wine in Austria and goes perfectly with Austrian style cuisine. Melissa makes a comparison between Austrian Wiener Schnitzel and Texas chicken fried steak and Steve waxes nostalgic for some. It's only slightly sweet but is delicious. "Wow! That is a smooth sucker!" exclaims the host. Next they are tasting a 2022 Governor's Bay Sauvignon Blanc. It has typical New Zealand gooseberry and passion fruit flavors. Gooseberries are sweet and tart. There is also the under-ripe grapefruit flavor always there. The next wine is a 2023 Diatom Chardonnay that has gotten rave reviews. It is all from Santa Barbara County, in a place where the soil is made of diatomaceous earth. In fact, DE filters are Diatomaceous Earth. The Diatom Chardonnay is produced by Brewer Clifton, a prominent Santa Barbara brand. It has more peach and pineapple components. There is no secondary fermentation and it is "quite soft." They didn't chill it but that would work well for it. There is a DOC Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Villa Borghetti from Italy, that is made with Pink Pinot Grigio grapes. It retails for $5.99 at Trader Joe's. Pinot Grigio grapes will turn pink if you let them stay on the vine for an extra week or two or three. Dan has a Pinot Noir, a 2019 Scherrer Green Valley Pinot Noir, from the Halberg Vineyard. Dan calls it "outrageously good." "Fantastic," says Steve. Melissa likes the spicy character that comes from Green Valley fruit.

    27 min

  3. 25 OCT

    Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines

    Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines founder and winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Greg is coming from the winery, where they are busy with harvest time. He is going right back too, after the show. He was a chemist and did some work in early Aids research and then went back to school in food science and enology. Greg had the good fortune to work at Beaulieu Vineyards under André Tchelistcheff. They had similar technical backgrounds. André challenged Greg, telling him that he would learn the heart and soul of wine if he came to work for him, rather than stay in the lab. Greg turned out to become one of André's greatest disciples. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. They are drinking a Colombard, which was once the most widely planted white wine grape up until the early ‘7. Now, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most planted. Colombard and Cinsault This 2022 Colombard is from two vineyards in Russian River Valley, planted respectively in 1902 and 1961. “It has a lot of bracing acidity,” and is only about 10.8% alcohol. Greg and his wife were working with owners of an abandoned Colombard vineyard, to restore it. Then, Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg asked Greg to make their house wine. The only proviso was, no Chardonnay and it had to be from Sonoma County. Colombard was perfect for that, but after the pandemic there was too much of it so they relabeled it. They named it Marchelle, after their wives Mara and Michelle. Their daughter Sophia designed the label. Marchelle wines are not really widely available but the best way to get them is at a tasting. Book that at their website. The Historic Vineyard Society will hold its main event in Lodi, California. There are actually a lot of old vines around Lodi. Evan Damiano is the winemaker for Greg La Follette now. Evan was on CWC earlier this year and he gives credit to Greg and André's legacy and influence over his own work.

    39 min

  4. 18 OCT

    Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini

    Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Mike was last on CWC on this episode of on September 15, 2023. In 1979 there was hardly any Pinot Noir planted in the Russian River Valley. When Mike decided to open this property, it was risky because the region had not yet developed its reputation. Other better financed growers made a bigger impression. Mike describes their secret to success as a balance between ignorance and passion. They started making wine in the garage in 1978. His late partner Mike was the only man he knew who could fall asleep in his chair holding a wine glass and never spill a drop. An "Interesting" Harvest Mike says this has been an “interesting” year. In the 1980s the wine tourists would visit a winery and buy a case. Now the consumer has changed and a new generation wants a story, an experience and a photo op. Then, maybe, they buy a bottle, not a case. That is why this show is so important because the market is going through a great transition. People’s ability to appreciate the best wine depends on good information. As Mike says, change is inevitable. Wine sales are down but it is cyclical, but wine is getting better and better every year, says Dan. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. This year's harvest is completed. The harvest has gone well, for Mike. The heat spells were stressful but the job is done. The vineyard demands 12 months of work all year, but the action happens in the three weeks at harvest time. Dan points out that a vineyard can be changed a little at a time, such as making adjustments to trellises. They are located on Barlow Lane at the intersection with Occidental Road.

    46 min

  5. 14 OCT

    Harvest Fair Winners with Dan Berger

    Dan Berger is in the studio today with Sonoma County Harvest Fair Winners on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger had decades of experience as a wine judge and he was a judge in this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair competition. He describes the new organization this year, where the judges only had 25 or 30 of one type of wine, instead of 55 or 60 of the same type. Dan likes this because the judges can get tired on too much of the same varietal. So, with a limited exposure to a single type of wine, the palette has a chance to regenerate. Also, the judging of each type is more spread out across all the judges. What is the difference between a Gold Medal and a Sweepstakes? asks Steve. The Sweepstakes is a second round, more like a final round taste-off, where different varietals are against each other. This can be more difficult to understand. Dan says take it with a grain of salt. Gold Medal is good enough as a winning designation. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. The 2023 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc is the Sweepstakes winner. Jeff Hinchliffe made it at Hanna. It is from Russian River Valley. There is not a lot of Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc available because Jeff has been contracting for all the best fruit. Not only does it smell and taste right for the variety. Instead of favoring the strong herbaceous components, he favors the tropical fruit. It is rich with a great aftertaste. It sells for about $20 but Bottle Barn has it for $13.99. Bottle Barn has all he award-winning wines in the store, with the awards listed on the wine display. Shone Farm Next is a 2022 Shone Farm wine, made by the students at SRJC. It is 13.9% ABV, so lower than average. It has fruit and spice flavors. The vineyard has been in the ground for 35 years. It’s a wine of personality, it is balanced with structure and good acidity. It is remarkable that the students at SRJC have won a Gold Medal for their wine, in competition with all the other great winemakers in Sonoma County.

    24 min

  6. 4 OCT

    Barry Herbst on Harvest Fair

    Barry Herbst is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about Harvest Fair Winners available at Bottle Barn. Barry is a frequent guest and his last time on the show was this episode last December to talk about sparkling wines. He has brought some winning wines from this year's Harvest Fair. This year there were two little late heat waves and harvest was hectic. There were whites and reds coming into the wineries all at once. The Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine winners have been published on the website. The Sweepstakes winners will be announced at the event, Saturday Oct. 12. Then there will be another episode of this show with more of those winning wines. Dan Berger, Wine Judge Dan Berger served as one of the judges. The competition is entirely for Sonoma County. The judges are all locals or people with a long history of association with Sonoma County wines. Also, they have more time to evaluate the wines. Deborah del Fiorentino does a great job running the competition. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. They taste the Capo Isetta Rosé that won a double Gold Medal. Three of their wines won medals. This wine sells for $15.99 per bottle. The grapes are Pinot Noir from Carneros and is fairly dry. Barry says that given the rising price of grapes, it is harder and harder to get Rosés for less than $20. Everyone understands that good quality Pinot Noir grapes are expensive and are mostly going to making reds. The firstHarvest Fair was in 1975 and today it is one of the premier regional wine competitions in the country. Dan appreciates the organization that gave the judges plenty of time and also a rotation of wines, so they did not get tired of any of them.

    44 min

  7. 27 SEPT

    Black Kite Cellars, Tom Birdsall

    Dan and Tom. Tom Birdsall, owner of Black Kite Cellars, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is Tom's first time on the show however their winemaker Jeff Gaffner was on the show on this episode of March 11, 2020. Black Kite Cellars began when Tom and his wife Rebecca went on a cycling tour through Burgundy. They were just consumers of wine at that time. Then in the late 1990s his wife’s father bought a vineyard in Anderson Valley and planted the 12 acres to Pinot. Not all the fruit was sold. He had some leftover grapes in 2003 and found a winery, Handley Cellars, to produce some wine from that harvest. Then Rebecca made the plan started Black Kite Cellars as a small family-owned winery. Tom mentions that they were lucky to find Jeff Gaffney to be the winemaker, right at the beginning. Now they are specialized in Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley. The coast has weather conditions perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  They begin by tasting a Chardonnay that Dan calls “substantial” and "opulent." The Black Kite or White-tailed Kite The Black Kite is a bird, a small hawk, which is Rebecca’s father’s favorite bird. The local was known as the black-shouldered kite, now known as the white-tailed kite. Dan mentions that this bird is good at controlling voles and mice which can wreck vines. Another word for this bird is “angel hawk” which winemaker Jeff Gaffner remembers calling it. This is because of the way they hover over the land while hunting. So Angel Hawk became the name of their reserve label. They only make about 3000 cases per year and they are in local shops and restaurants. They also now have a new tasting room in the town of Freestone. It is small but very well appointed. It is also right at the corner of the vineyard. They are open 7 days a week and they prefer appointments. The West Sonoma Coast, the newest appellation in the county, is their specialty. Their current production is eight Pinot Noirs and four Chardonnays. The wine they are tasting is a Pinot from Roberts Road vineyard, in Petaluma Gap, that the Sangiacomo family owns.

    36 min

  8. 20 SEPT

    Longboard Vineyards

    Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before. His last appearance was this episode on November 17, 2023. He has a long history of making high quality wines from his small properties. He grew up surfing in Israel and then, looking for good waves, he went to surf the Atlantic beaches. In France, he discovered wine, then he heard about UC Davis, came to study in the program and, “never looked back.” He had a series of winemaking jobs and started his own vineyard On West Side Road he has about five acres where he grows about 40% of the grapes he uses at Longboard. His neighbors are the Rocchioli family, and their famous vineyard. He feels lucky that they sell some grapes to him. As neighbors, their kids played sports together. Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines. They begin tasting the Rocchioli Vineyard Chardonnay. He wants people to consider aging this white wine. A well-made white wine, not over-oaked and doesn't have residual sugar, it gets a "sun-dried linen" character, as one of his professors described it. They also taste a Syrah, which reminds Dan that all these wines need some time in the bottle. Wines are like cakes in the oven, says Oded. You have to have patience for the wine to develop complexity. Dan says that if you open it and taste it two days later, it can also open up a lot. They have a cellar, a lounge and vineyard in Healdsburg. The place used to be the Magnolia Cannery, then it was Clos du Bois winery, and later under other brands. Oded says his job title could be "vinegar stopper" because wine will occur naturally and also turn quickly to vinegar if you're not careful. You can actually observe their cellar operations and get close to the process.

    20 min
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About

A weekly radio show and podcast all about the business, science and pleasure of wine. Our guests are the all-star team of the most interesting and influential winemakers in the business, who bring in their favorite wines for tasting. There are always interesting stories behind each vintage and each guest, all in a relaxed, down-to-earth atmosphere.

Information

  • Creator
    Steve Jaxon & Dan Berger
  • Years Active
    2017 - 2024
  • Episodes
    88
  • Rating
    Clean

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