Woodshop Life Podcast

0.0 (0)
PANDUAN
DUA KALI SEBULAN

Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking

6 HARI LALU

Maintenance Routines, Knock Down Hardware, Basic Shop Tools, And MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hello Guy, Huy, and Sean,I have two questions. 1) I'd like to hear your thoughts on your workshop maintenance routines. Are there yearly, monthly, project-ly routines to the maintenance and cleaning you do in your shops? Marc What are your woodworking goals for 2025? Brian Guys Questions: Hey Guys, First, thanks for the fantastic podcast. I always enjoy listening to you gents so much so that I've managed to get through the entirety of your past episodes. A little background: I work in a small space and am consider going with a combo jointer - planer can leave me some room for something else. I am not a a professional woodworker but an enthusiastic hobbyist. Right now I have a bench top 10" jointer (I definitely understand why Guy pretty much hates these things) and a DeWalt 735 planer. I'm happy with the DeWalt, but the jointer can get finicky if it's moved or looked at. I believe I heard in a past episode that Huy is using a Hammer A3-31 jointer-planer combo. Huy - are you in fact using a Hammer combo machine? And if so, are you happy with it? Is the fence pretty solid? If you were to buy again, what else would you consider? My other option is maybe a non-combo mid-price point Powermatic or Grizzly jointer. Any other brands to consider? It's a tough choice - spend more money but use less space or spend less money and use up more of that limited space. Would appreciate hearing from each of you on this topic. Apologies for my long winded questions, but this feels like a big decision. Thanks again for the excellent show.Ron As always thank you for the podcast and sharing your knowledge. This one may be mainly for Guy as I know he’s a proponent of the Lamello Zeta P2. Like Huy I’m a bit of a tool junkie, and can't pass up a new one. I was never happy with my old Porter Cable biscuit Joiner, so I gravitated to the Domino DF500 which has been a great tool. I came across a deal where someone was selling a complete Zeta P2 system so I picked it up. I’ve watched a number of the videos guy posted using the Zeta P2 and so far she seems like a great machine, but now I have some questions that I was hoping you could point me in the right direction:1) Is there any reason to keep my old Porter Cable Biscuit joiner? 2) I have the knock down domino accessories that I’ve used on some builds in the past. Do you have a guide line or any thoughts on when you would use the Domino vs. the Lamello?Thanks again, Doug Huy's Questions: Hello gentlemen, since you have been asking for questions, here are some for you regarding tools for projects, projects for tools, and tools AS projects.First, tools for projects. Thinking back my early days in woodworking, there were many times when I would have an idea for a project that exceeded the capabilities of my limited tool collection. Some of these were a basic as ripping a board or making an accurate cross cut. I managed to get by with the most basic table saw that I could afford and an old circular saw. Since a lot has changed in the 30 years since I started, like track saws and set-ups like MFT and Kreg's table setups, what would you guys recommend for the basic tools for someone starting out? Second, projects for tools. As I started to improve my skills as a woodworker and more tools became available, I felt the need to add tools to my shop. To help justify the purchases, I found myself coming up with projects that would be easier if I had that "special tool/bit/blade." Have you every made a project specifically designed to justify a tool purchase, or is it just me? If so, what was the project and what was the tool? Third, tools AS projects. A few years ago I started to get more into hand tool woodworking after inheriting some of my grandfather's collection. I also began frequenting a couple of used tool stores in Maine while on vacation where I picked up some vintage panel saws and most of a Stanley 78 rabbet plane

1j 1m
10 JAN

A Holiday Break!

Hello all, We are taking a one episode break for the holidays and all three of us are dealing with some kind of cold/flu. See you again in two weeks!

1 min
27/12/2024

Making Thin Stock, Angled Tenons, Dust Collector Placement and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I'm in the market to upgrade to a cabinet saw that I want to last for a long time. I've been using a Powermatic 64A contractors saw for the past two years that I bought used and have done my best to tune up. That saw still has its flaws though, and it's time to move on. I'm setting a budget of roughly $4000. I want a new saw with a 3 HP motor. 30" rip capacity is enough for me, as I can break down sheet goods using other methods, it will also fit better in my shop. I'm currently considering the Powermatic 2000B or the Sawstop 3 HP cabinet saw. Which one would you choose, and why? What other models would you consider? Love the podcast! Thanks for your advice! Mike K. Hey guys!I’ve recently started scroll saw portraits (ex. Newton Makes Art or Scrollsaw Scribbler). So far I’ve stuck mainly to using pre-milled 1/4” stock, but I would like to add some dimension to the pieces and get even thinner stock, down to 3/16” or 1/8”. I recently added a planer to the shop and was thinking of taping stock to an MDF board to thickness the stock further.So my questions, first do you think this is safe? I have fears going this thin may lead to things getting ripped apart on the planer. Second, is there any other ways you’d recommend getting boards this thin? PS I do not have a drum sander to help with that last bit of flattening.-Trevor Guys Questions: I am a relatively new woodworker. Still learning skills, techniques, and patience with woodworking.Last year I made a pair of bar stools using cherry wood. It was my first real project of any significance, and overall I am really proud of how they turned out and how they have been holding up to daily use.This is a two part question because these are the two issues I struggled with the most during the build.1. I made the legs of the stools splayed, and raked. I used blind mortise and tenon joinery to attach the rails to the legs. Since the legs were splayed and raked, I had to cut my mortise and tenons joint on an angle to accommodate the legs not being vertical. I used a forsner bit on the drill press and angled the table to roughly the proper angle, then used a chisel to square the holes. But I really struggled to do this accurately, especially when using the chisel to square the angled hole. What advice would you give to get precise angles, and to keep that angle while chiseling the holes square?Part 2. What would you suggest for attaching the seat to the base of the stool? I pre drilled holes into the bottom on the seat and used screws from underneath. You can’t see them unless you foil the stool upside down. but I felt like a bit of a hack doing that and would have preferred to use some sort of joinery instead of screws.Thanks again for providing the woodworking community with your knowledge and for the great entertainment. Braden Hey Gents! Canadian listener here, I found your podcast about a week ago and i have been listening every day now. Thanks for the content. I love the look of pure oil finishes like tung oil but I can't handle how long it takes to dry. I have heard you can thin it to help. Is this something you guys do from time to time and if so what do you thin with / what ratio? Tyler Huys Questions: Hey Guys,As I’m working on building a new shop this summer. I’m getting a little closer to figuring out dust collection for the big machines. I ended up putting two 6” runs in the slab. But I’m stuck on which DC types work best.I built a large storage shed off the back of the shop that is walled off and the plan is to store the DC, lumber , air compressor, etc.I know a cyclone with a hepa filter is the gold standard in removing fine dust, which makes sense if the DC is inside the conditioned shop.But I already have a dual bag setup from Shop fox W1687 (3hp DC with separater and bag filters). I think this setup may get better air movement than the cyclone. And since it’s housed “outside” of the shop I think the filter requirem

57 min
13/12/2024

Jig Making, Too Many Exotics?, Honing Hand Tool Skills and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hola fellas,Been a minute since I've bothered you, I've been busy with rebuilding my 1000 sqft deck with black locust I am milling from logs. It's taking a while, and most of my families patience with me. I took a detour to rebuild my music studio, so now all my neighbors get to listen to death core metal. I need to mill up this beech tree for a giant dresser but that's a topic for another time. Lot going on around here.I got a hot one for today:Some unbridled genius at my kids' day camp decided it would be a good idea for me to teach young children woodworking. I tried to explain that I have a company to run, am really irresponsible with other people's kids, don't know how to keep myself safe, etc. but they're pretty insistent. I talked them down from me being an actual camp counselor, to doing one or two workshops a week with different age groups from 6 up to 12 years old.I have a ton of scrap that can be used, a box of screwdrivers and crab mallets, 20 little glue bottles, and a bunch of sandpaper. Now I need some projects.Any ideas? I have the standard bird house / solid wood cutting board / pencil holder type stuff you can find online but I want something more exciting. What else can I do with young kids, that can be glued, nailed, tied, or screwed together from pre-fabricated parts? I want to get them to decorating whatever we make as quickly as possible, I've found with my kids that's when they get really excited.I should mention the camp has offered to purchase some tools for the kids, and materials, so I'm not limited there, but I think i want to keep power tools out of it. Make me a hero here gentlemen and I will be certain to share the accolades with WSLPC (WLP?). Happy Thanksgiving / Holidays / New Year's. Big Tom Hello guys,Is there a material / construction method that I should be preferring for making jigs if I want them to last a long time?Max Greddie Woodworks Guys Questions: I am looking to build a dresser. Tentatively, I am thinking zebrawood main structure, which I would stain to match a cinnamon-brown stained maple desk that will be sitting beside the dresser. I am thinking about doing the drawer fronts in Bubinga, which also looks similar in color to the maple and zebrawood, when finished. The top of the dresser, I was thinking of quartersawn Sapele. Sapele is relatively inexpensive and I love the ribbons and chatoyance of Sapele. The mirror surround material I am still undecided on, but probably Sapele.Is this too many wood types on one piece ? I have a few more bedroom pieces to eventually make and it seems like I risk having every species in The Wood Database in my bedroom, but my last couple of pieces have been Sapele and Khaya, and although I like the look, it's time for a change. Stephen It's rather simple or basic, actually. When I first entered this school shop, it had been a while since there was a dedicated teacher. As such, some of the equipment was in need of some maintenance attention. Specifically, the tops or working surfaces of various pieces of equipment (3 table saws, planer, jointer, sanders, band saws, etc. - hopefully you get the picture). I purchased a can of Johnson's paste wax, a couple of wax applicators and went to town. Now, in the present, I can see the bottom of my can of wax - AND THERE IS NO JOHNSON'S PASTE WAX TO BE FOUND (except for certain websites that want an near fortune for the stuff). I know there are other products that companies have dedicated time and money to develop just for this purpose (various sprays and the like) but am wondering a couple of things. Should I, because according to the company, it isn't coming back so I should just embrace the change and just use the new stuff - OR - is there a similar product that can accomplish the same objective and is a simple solution? Will any paste wax work? I have seen a product called Shop Wax made by Bumblechutes and am wondering if that will w

59 min
30/11/2024

Workbench Stability, Drum Sander Woes, Veneer Glus and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions Brians Questions I was at a big box store the other day getting a new toilet. As I passed the lumber section, I saw what looked, from far away, like a piece of walnut. On closer inspection, it was a piece of rainbow poplar in with the ugly, green big box poplar for the same price as the regular poplar. Of course I bought it. My question is: was that awesome and, if so, how awesome?Thanks, Sincerely, American Bob Hey Gents! Canadian listener here, I found your podcast about a week ago and i have been listening every day now. Thanks for the content.I started woodworking this year and just built a new workbench using Paul Sellers plans. It has a laminated 2x3 top with a well so it's quite heavy. I use both power tools and hand tools. The main point of making this new bench was to make it heavy so it doesn't slide during hand planing, but it still slides!!! Any tips on how to prevent workbench slide?My workbench needs to float away from the wall so i am looking for a solution that isn't "put something behind it".Any tips would be greatly appreciated!Thanks again! Tyler Guys Questions I have a question regarding the drum sander. I only swear while doing two things, playing golf and using my drum sander. I bought a new Supermax 16-32 and had nothing but problems with it and had to send it in for warranty repair. I sold it and upgraded to a Powermatic PM2244 which I believe Guy has. I definitely have had better luck with the Powermatic but still have issues with burning at times. I do make end grain cutting boards for friends, family and donations. I know the end grain is extremely hard. I take very shallow passes, usually .002 to .004 per pass running the conveyor at 4 FPM and no matter how careful I am I still will get burning and grooves. It doesn’t matter the grit of the sandpaper. I’ve experimented with feed rate with no luck. I know the glue does create heat and builds up on the paper so I clean the sandpaper often. Do you have any recommendations or should I start a swear jar to raise money for charity? Thanks again, Matt Good evening, gentleman! Thanks for this amazing podcast and all the info! I had a quick question on blades for a cheap table saw.I used to use the newer delta contractors saw (miss it so much..best saw I've used) unfortunately, had to down size. So I'm back to my ryobi cheaper saw. I keep the blade and adjustments true, so it cuts well....for what it is. Yall mentioned a few weeks back, thin curf blades vs regular 10". Question: I use a smaller circular saw blade in my table saw. Have you? Have you noticed more power and better cuts? Because I have. In all saws I've used. Would you recommend using a smaller blade in a cheap table saw to get more power to the blade? I'm just kinda wondering your thoughts on that. I'm a one man backyard shop that mostly is building cabinet doors out of poplar and barn doors out of pine, and poplar. Thoughts? Thanks in advance! Keep up the amazing programming! Crafted Carpentry Canada Huy's Questions EH gentlemen from the Niagara region in Ontario Canada, been listening to your excellent podcast for some time now and thoroughly enjoy it so thank you for that. My question concerns urns and specifically how it seals. For context, my wife's grandmother has recently passed away and I was asked by my wife's family to make her urn.I don't own a lathe but I very carefully using an angle grinder with a shaping disc, orbital sander and an excessive amount of hand sanding created a typical tapering cylindrical urn that is fatter about 1/3 of the way down from the top, tapering upwards and downwards from there and I used segmented layers to achieve this.The urn is made of blood wood and has soft maple accent rings.The lid I created was a simple circle that I used dowel pins and magnets to secure it to the top of the urn.I am extremely happy with how the urn turned out and how the lid looks on the urn but I am n

1j 4m
15/11/2024

Small Shop Lumber Storage, Hard Oil Waxes, Board Width For Glue-Ups and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I have a question on wood storage I have a smaller shop and lots of tools so wood storage space is tight. I purchase my wood based on what I have planned for the next 2-3 projects and try not to stock many extra boards. I store them on end leaning against an outside wall. I often clamp several boards together to help avoid bowing. So far no problems but I am fairly new to full time woodworking as I retired 2 years ago. Do you see any problems with this method that I haven't experienced yet? With the cost of hardwood lumber I don't want to be surprised with wood that I cant use. Thanks Dean I’m just finishing up building all the cabinetry for my Seattle home and decided to take on the interior doors as a new challenge. I’d like the doors to appear as if they’re made from 5-6 vertical wood boards, with a small 1/8” kerf between each board (I’ve attached an inspiration image). I know that a large glue-up of solid wood would expand and contract undesirably for a door, so here’s my current plan to keep things stable:I’m planning to veneer 1 1/2” by 5 1/2” TimberStrand engineered studs with 1/8” shop-sawn veneers in a vacuum press, ending up with a 1 3/4” stile. Then, I’d edge glue the 5-6 stiles together, reinforcing each joint with Dominos. Once glued up, I’d add the 1/8” kerfs with a track saw.My questions are as follows: 1. Would you recommend using the largest 14mm x 140mm Dominos between each stile, and if so, how many and at what spacing across each 8-foot section? 2. Do you have any tips for gluing the doors up flat? 3. Does this seem like a viable method to achieve a flat, stable door with the look I’m after, or is there another approach you’d suggest?Thanks for your input and for all the time you put into creating such a great show! Best, Sam I would like your thoughts on the depth/ratio you prefer for cabinet or bookcase dado's for shelves - for example if using 3/4" plywood for a cabinet, or 3/4" hardwood a bookcase. It is my understanding that 1/4" is a good depth overall. I am planning on building both some cabinets this fall, but my current project that I am preparing for is a hardwood Scandinavian bookcase. I am considering fixed shelves installed via dado. Each shelf will have an offset vertical shelf divider, also installed via dado. John Sanchez Guys Questions: A few years ago I refinished our oak dining table. It may be close to 100 years old. My mother used it in her youth, and I am now 61 years old. To refinish it, I used - sorry to say - MinWax - stain and water based satin Polycrylic. We use this table everyday for any meal we eat at home. Well, the finish has gotten gummy where I rest my arms on the table. Now I need to refinish it again. I had recently applied Osmo Polyx-Oil hard oil wax on a guitar neck that I finished, and really like it. Would this be a good, durable finish for an oak dining table that sees daily use? And not gum up again?Thanks, David Vespoint I am contemplating a (non-epoxy) dining table build using some soft maple slabs I have acquired. I will mill the slabs into as wide of boards as I can and glue them up and get them surfaced so that my final dimensions will be about 84”x35”x2.5”. I want to add a fairly significant under bevel, leaving about 3/4” on the edge and cutting at a 16 degree (or 74 degree, depending on how you measure it) angle, so that the bevel ends about six inches from the edge on the bottom of the table. My question is: How the heck do I do that? I have a table saw, but I don’t think I’m lifting this whole tabletop and running it through my table saw (the blade isn’t long enough anyways). I thought about getting a track saw, but it turns out they use dinky little blades. Do I make an angled sled for my router? Do I use my 4” handheld power plane? Is there another solution I am not imagining? Thanks! Jon I'm building a couple of nightstands for my daughter bas

48 min
01/11/2024

Dye Colors, Mitered Boxes, Glue Creep and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hello Guys,Love the show so much great information. I have recently got into scroll sawing. I am a comic book fan and I want to start scrolling the comic book art that I love. As you may know comic book art is very colorful. My goal is to start getting enough exotic wood to try and cover as much color as I can. In the mean time I would like to start using stain to color the woods. Are you all aware of any stains that have a good color spectrum.ThanksKorey from Independence KY I am looking to build a shop building on my property. What is the minimum square footage you would recommend for a home hobbyist? I will have a miter saw, router table, table saw, and eventually a planer and dust collector. And of course a work bench with a saw vise.I have plenty of room on my property, so that isn't a limiting factor. My biggest concern is not spending money that I don't need to on a building that is larger than needed.What are some things you recommend that I plan for when building? Power outlet locations and qty, ceiling height, lighting type, etc.?Thanks in advance! Kyle Guys Questions: I know you guys have referenced putting shellac under water based finish so you can have the richer look in the wood but ease/quick timeline of water based. I typically use an airless sprayer to apply General Finishes High Performance. I have some projects with walnut that I would normally finish with Arm-R-Seal to get the rich walnut tone. Id like to try the shellac coat first and then High Performance on top. I was wondering what is your standard application practice when you do this. Do you apply shellac (by hand or spray) and then wait a few hours/a few days/a week? Thanks for the advice and looking to avoid any pitfalls in the process being that Ive never done it before. Thanks and keep up the good work on the podcast.Pete from Uncarved Block Woodworks, Madison, WI Do you have any tips for glueing up mitered-corner boxes to ensure they are square/plumb, etc.? I've had a hard time with this. Thanks David Vespoint Huys Questions: My local Rockler shut down and I found myself purchasing the Dark Half Tung oil from the real milk paint company at a steep discount. Never used the stuff but I’ve heard that dark tung oil can help give cherry a patina look without aging. I’m wondering if it can help walnut preserve its dark color over time?Tung oil is supposed to be a pretty durable finish on it own. Have you guys tried using it as part of an arm r seal mix?Thanks again for the help! Jose All of my furniture pieces seem to have glue creep on all the table tops and panels. I switched from using titebond pva to titebond hide glue thinking this would solve the problem. On some newer pieces I built with the hide glue, I can now slightly feel the glue seams after a few weeks. The tops all have biscuits for alignment as well. Could this be a matter of temperature and humidity change from my shop to my house? About 40% humidity in my shop through the use of a dehumidifier. Temperature ranged from in the 50s this past winter to now it's in the 80s. Would you sand the seam lightly with 0000 steel wool or very high grit sandpaper? And any tips for future builds to avoid this again? Thanks guys! Jeff

59 min
18/10/2024

Miter Station Size? Catastrophic Failures, Outdoor Finishes and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions: Guys Questions: Gentleman, Chris here @custom_by_chris on Instagram. My shop is a single car garage roughly 11.5’ wide by 22’ long. I’d like to build a miter station along the front wall for my Kapex. Will I regret confining myself to that 11.5’ width? I would position the saw so I have at least 8’ of cutting capacity to one side. I am not doing regular trim work so don’t frequently deal with long stock. Lastly, when designing and building the miter station what features would you consider must-haves or things that aren’t necessary? It’s easy to get sucked into the YouTube rabbit hole of miter stations so please guide me back to the light. Chris Zach from Minnesota here. I recently constructed a box using box joints for the first time (thank you, I hold the applause.) As the tutorial by wood magazine suggested, I cut the fingers a little long with the intention of trimming them later rather than risking them being slightly too short. I have come across numerous suggestions regarding the best way to trim flush these protruding fingers, and as with most things to do with woodworking every suggested method also includes a comment claiming that following any of the other suggestions will ruin my work piece. What method do each of you prefer to use when flush trimming your box joints? Thanks in advance.Sincerely, Zachary T Owens Hi Guy and other guys,Thanks for the great podcast. I have learned a lot from all the great content you put out. I really appreciate your advice and perspective. I have a couple questions I was hoping you could answer.Recently I was rubbing a beeswax and tung oil finish on a little box I made for my mother in law. I was using a white scotch bright pad. I guess I didn't softened one of the corners enough because the pad caught the grain and torn out a little piece of edge. My question is what do you do if something catastrophic happens while finishing? Do you sand it back repair it and then finish again? Do you have to sand the whole thing back or just the piece you are repairing? Or is there some trick to repairing finished wood? Or do you just trow it in the fireplace curse a lot and start over?Thanks. Keep up the great work. Jon Moch Huys Questions: Hey guys, longtime follower and still enjoy listening to the podcast. Guy, it seems like you’ve fallen out of love with woodworking a bit and moved onto 3d printing? Is that just because you’ve been doing it forever haha? Always good to have a change. I wanted to ask you guys about pigmented conversion varnish. I often hear you talk about it and I’ve never heard of it mentioned here in the uk across the pond, the only thing I can find online is it’s potentially the same as what we call acid catalyst? Is it dangerous to spray? Here in the UK acid catalyst (or commonly called AC) is quite toxic and you have to be in a proper booth with serious fume extraction and prober PPE respirator. Is this the same stuff? I’m guessing a pigmented conversion varnish would be a paint finish? Such as a solid colour? Any info would be great.Keep up the great work guys, Mike Hey guys thank you for all the information in the podcast and your previous answers to questions. For the most part I make sawdust. I build some furniture pieces, picture frames, boxes, etc. I also build some shipping crates for my real job which helps offset some of the cost of this hobby. The crates use 4x4, 2x8, 2x10 & 2x4 construction lumber and plywood. I've been using a sliding compound miter saw to cut up the boards. I'm reorganizing my garage and was thinking of selling the miter saw and going back to a Radial Arm Saw. I do not do any type of trim work or anything like that. Am I making a mistake wanting to go to the radial? It would just be for breaking down the boards to length. Thanks, Doug Hi everyone,Pretty much a novice woodworker with some questions on sapele. My primary question: I have a sapele front door that I inherited that has a finish

44 min

Lihat Semua (100)

Bi-Weekly Podcast Focused on the Craft of Woodworking

Pencipta

Woodshop Life Podcast
Tahun Aktif

2018 - 2025
Episod

100
Penilaian

Bersih
Laman Web Rancangan

Woodshop Life Podcast

Hobi

Hobi

Dua Minggu Sekali
Hobi

Hobi

Dua Minggu Sekali
Santai

Santai

Setiap Bulan
Hobi

Hobi

Setiap Bulan
Hobi

Hobi

Dua Minggu Sekali
Panduan

Panduan

Dua Minggu Sekali
Hobi

Hobi

Setiap Minggu

Woodshop Life Podcast

Maintenance Routines, Knock Down Hardware, Basic Shop Tools, And MORE!!!

A Holiday Break!

Making Thin Stock, Angled Tenons, Dust Collector Placement and MORE!!!

Jig Making, Too Many Exotics?, Honing Hand Tool Skills and MORE!!!

Workbench Stability, Drum Sander Woes, Veneer Glus and MORE!!!

Small Shop Lumber Storage, Hard Oil Waxes, Board Width For Glue-Ups and MORE!!!

Dye Colors, Mitered Boxes, Glue Creep and MORE!!

Miter Station Size? Catastrophic Failures, Outdoor Finishes and MORE!!!

Perihal

Maklumat

Anda Mungkin Turut Menyukai

Woodshop Life Podcast

Episod

Maintenance Routines, Knock Down Hardware, Basic Shop Tools, And MORE!!!

A Holiday Break!

Making Thin Stock, Angled Tenons, Dust Collector Placement and MORE!!!

Jig Making, Too Many Exotics?, Honing Hand Tool Skills and MORE!!!

Workbench Stability, Drum Sander Woes, Veneer Glus and MORE!!!

Small Shop Lumber Storage, Hard Oil Waxes, Board Width For Glue-Ups and MORE!!!

Dye Colors, Mitered Boxes, Glue Creep and MORE!!

Miter Station Size? Catastrophic Failures, Outdoor Finishes and MORE!!!

Perihal

Maklumat

Anda Mungkin Turut Menyukai