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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn
  • 4.5 (368)
  • NATURALEZA SALVAJE
  • CADA DOS SEMANAS

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

  1. HACE 6 DÍAS

    TBP 296: Coaching Session on Fear of Falling and Learning to Try Hard

    In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Robyn Steuber, a 33-yr-old climber whose main barrier in climbing is her fear of falling and inability to try hard above her bolt. She also struggles with performance anxiety and fear of failing. So I did a complete one-hour session with her, just as I would with any climbing client, and we dissected exactly what she's afraid of and made a plan for her to start overcoming her fears. We discussed fall practice, quantitative ways for her to start learning how to try hard in general (and eventually above her bolt), and I gave her strategies for dealing with the big emotions that come with a stressful day of climbing.  If you want to work with me on your own mental barriers in climbing, visit www.trainingbeta.com/mindset.

    1 h y 9 min

  2. 27 AGO

    TBP 295: Climber & Doctor Katie O'Brien on Perimenopause: Hormone Replacement Therapy, Nutrition, Supplements

    Dr. Katie O'Brien is a functional medicine doctor who specializes in perimenopause, and in this episode she goes into great detail about what perimenopause is and how to navigate it with hormones, supplements, nutrition, and lifestyle choices so you can continue climbing hard in your late 30's, 40's and beyond.  This episode is not just for perimenopausal women! This is for everyone so that you, as a woman, can be sure you recognize signs and symptoms of perimenopause when they happen (and know what to do about them), and so that you, as a man, can help advocate for the women in your life. This is crucial for every woman's health and happiness. I hope you get a lot out of this conversation :) Dr. Katie's new supplement FemmeMD - get 20% off with code friends20: https://shop.femme-md.com/

    1 h y 32 min
  3. Neely Quinn on The Struggle Climbing Show Talking about Perfectionism in Climbing

    20 AGO

    Neely Quinn on The Struggle Climbing Show Talking about Perfectionism in Climbing

    Ryan Devlin invited Neely Quinn (the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast) to be on his podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show, to talk about perfectionism in climbing. Neely talks about common symptoms of perfectionism in climbers, how it can hold people back, and how it's actually kind of a super power. She also did some coaching on Ryan to help him enjoy climbing a little bit more, instead of being so intent on constantly achieving big things in his climbing. Ryan kindly shared this recording of the interview with Neely to share on this podcast, but it was originally published on The Struggle Climbing Show, which you should definitely check out.

    1 h y 16 min

  4. 6 AGO

    TBP 294 :: Nutrition Session with Climber for Sugar Cravings and Weight Gain

    In this episode I did a full nutrition session with a climber, Katelin Hollowell who was struggling with intense sugar cravings and some weight gain. I treated this episode as I would any client session and asked her a bunch of questions about her goals, her lifestyle, her training, etc., and then I looked at her diet log on the MyFitnessPal app and gave her some concrete suggestions for what to do next. I then asked her for an update about three weeks after our initial conversation and I included that at the end of the episode.  If you want to follow along with her diet log screensharing that I did during the episode, you can watch this episode on video on youtube. If you'd like to work with me on your nutrition, I'm currently taking new clients and would love to help you!    I also mentioned in the podcast that I created another podcast! It's completely off the topic of climbing and it's called The Spelling Bee Podcast, where I quiz you on the spelling of 10 challenging words each week and teach you about the origins of the words. You can find it wherever you get your podcasts :)

    1 h y 18 min

  5. 23 JUL

    TBP 293: Sport Psychologist Kat Lumby Uses REBT to Deal with Fear in Climbing

    Kat Lumby is a Sport and Exercise Psychologist in Training (SEPiT) out of Wales, UK who works with all kinds of athletes, especially climbers and surfers. She has been a climbing coach for many years and has been able to take her skills to the next level with her SEPiT education. In this episode she talks about the specific kind of therapy she uses with athletes to deal with fear (and other barriers to performance). It’s called Rational Emotion Behavioral Therapy (REBT), and she will literally take you through the “ABC’s” of this modality. She also does a quick therapy session with me during the interview where we talk about my fear of falling. We come to some pretty great insights, which I’ve been using ever since in my climbing sessions. We also talk about some research she did on climbers and how you can put this kind of concrete thinking to use in your own climbing. You can work with Kat Lumby as your coach or your sport psychologist at labyrinthclimbing.co.uk.

    1 h y 14 min

  6. 9 JUL

    TBP 292: How 13 Elite Climbers Approach Rest Days

    I recently received an email from someone asking for a podcast episode that talked about resting. They wanted to know how elite/pro level climbers spend their rest days, how often they rest when they’re projecting, when they’re training, and generally just how they think about rest. So I reached out to a bunch of elite climbers and got 13 responses to these three questions: How many days a week do you rest when you’re projecting? What about when you’re in a training cycle? What do you do on your rest days in terms of physical activity when you’re projecting? What about when you’re in a training cycle? How old are you and how long have you been climbing? They sent me emails or a voice memo and here’s who responded: Emily Harrington Alex Honnold Lynn Hill Hazel Findlay Jonathan Siegrist Bill Ramsey Katie Lamb Paige Claassen Matt Pincus Alex Stiger Luke Parady Sam Elias Dusty Rasnick In this episode I’ll give you a short bio of each of these climbers and then either read or play you the recording of their response. Hopefully you learn something from this episode, but mostly it’s just interesting to see how pro/elite climbers approach resting. Enjoy!

    51 min

  7. 18 JUN

    TBP 291 :: Alex’s Experience Being Coached by Roap for 6 Months

    In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger talks about her experience being coached by Alex Puccio and Robin O’Leary (ROAP) for the past 6 months and what it’s done for her climbing. She started board climbing 2 grades harder and has improved her outdoor climbing experience as well because of the coaching she received. Alex strongly believes in the benefits of being coached and talks a little bit about being coached for the video game StarCraft as well. She’s currently offering a 6-month coaching package for 15 new clients and she talks about what it’s like working with her at the end of the episode. Episode Details Why she wanted to be coached and why she chose ROAP What worked for her How their coaching style is different from hers Why it made her try harder and be more consistent in her training The thing that Puccio said to her that changed her climbing immediately How her board climbing improved by 2 grades almost right away

    1 h y 7 min

  8. 11 JUN

    TBP 290: How to Effectively Train with a Busy Schedule - Coach Collin McGee

    Collin McGee (@liftsmcgee) is a personal trainer and coach at C4HP with Dr. Tyler Nelson. He is also a personal trainer and coach to athletes of all sports, ages, and abilities and he has a firm grasp on how to become a stronger, better athlete no matter what your objectives are. In this episode he breaks down the basics of training and how to get better at climbing even if you have a busy schedule. Here’s what he covers: Assessment Strength Training Power Training Endurance Flexibility Making a Plan

    1 h
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Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

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