EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c.

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Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlay

Nuggets:

5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales

7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days

9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid

11:25 – Weather in Wales

16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others

20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there

25:27 – The ego

27:42 – How the ego manifests in our climbing, and loosening our attachment to outcomes

30:52 – Patron Question from Tyler: What type of people are most likely to seek coaching?

33:42 – Patron Question from Tyler: Differences between men and women (in general) when it comes to fear of falling

37:05 – Patron Question from Tyler: Advice when supporting someone who is working on their mental game?

40:37 – More resources on fear of falling

41:32 – Patron Question from Kellen: Differences between advanced and new climbers when it comes to mental training needs.

43:17 – Patron Question from Will: How to balance between confidence vs. cockiness, and cultural differences in confidence

48:46 – Magic Line description

54:51 – Hazel’s mental practice while climbing Magic Line

58:18 – Jasna’s email, and what inspired Hazel about Magic Line

1:04:19 – Question from Jasna: How did Hazel prepare for the possibility of failure?

1:07:37 – Keeping your head and climbing better

1:08:40 – Daily mental practices 

1:11:20 – Hazel’s thoughts on the lack of publicity of Magic Line

1:15:17 – Patron Question from Jen: Any advice from Hazel’s shoulder surgery and recovery?

1:24:03 – Patron Question from AnnaMarie: Most memorable climb? 

1:25:03 – Next El Cap route?

1:25:56 – Escaping to Greece during covid, and her upcoming trip to the states

1:29:14 – How to connect with Hazel

1:30:18 – Gratitude