Kevin Bersofsky, Montagne Russe, Petaluma Gap

Kevin Bersofsky from Montagne Russe Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, most recently on this episode of August 3, 2022.

On Saturday August 10, the Wind to Wine festival is at the Gambonini Family Ranch in Petaluma.

They start by tasting a sparkling wine that Kevin Bersofsky has made. Dan calls it “a very serious bubbly.” It’s a Brut Rosé and it is very dry. The flavors are fruity but not sweet.

The Petaluma Gap was designated as an AVA in 2017. Kevin was using vineyards that were there before the AVA became official, like Springhill Ranch, Roberts Road, Gap’s Crown, Terra de Promissio, Keller Estates, Sunchase, Night Wing, …

Montagne Russe

Montagne Russe is the French, Italian and Spanish word for a Roller-Coaster. It literally means “Russian Mountains” because it was russian impresarios who brought ice to Paris and used it to decorate their roller coaster attractions.

It can be in the 90s in the Petaluma Gap area, but by evening the wind comes in and it can be 20 degrees cooler. It blows in from Bodega Bay, off the sea. There are only two places that have east-west valleys that produce great wine, Santa Barbara County and Petaluma Gap.

Dan says that the Petaluma Gap wines all have good structure because the acidity is strong. The grapes don’t ripen as fast, so by staying on the vine they build up acidity. The average wind speed is 8 MPH faster in the gap than anywhere else in Sonoma County. The grapes like to cool down.

The Gambonini Family Ranch will be the host of the Wind to Wine festival, with food music, wine talks and 30 or more Petaluma Gap wineries pouring wines.

Dan’s favorite Syrahs come from northern Victoria in Australia. They don’t even import them to the US, but Dan Berger has some in his estensive personal cellar.

The next wine they taste is the Montagne Russe 2021 Pinot Noir from the Roberts Road vineyard. Kevin knows that this is a vineyard that always makes good wine. Dan gets traces of cherry and also pomegranate. Steve likes the neologism Nutmeggy.

Dan explains how the Sonoma Coast appellation was too varied and needed better definition. So the Petaluma Gap AVA was truly unique and deserved to be created.