The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast

I talked with coaches Alex Stiger and Matt Pincus about how they coach their clients to make the best use of their time outside of work to train and climb. And I talk about how to eat well throughout every day to fuel yourself for climbing and training, regardless of what your busy schedule looks like.
We looked at three case studies:
The 9-5 employee
Shift workers (health care workers, etc)
Parent who may or may not have a job
Things We Covered
How to fit training in even on work days for a shift worker
What to do on days off after shift work stint is over
Nutrition tips for shift workers
Should 9-5’ers focus on bouldering to make the most of their time?
How often to be training and climbing
Making sure to vary sessions
Different climbing/training schedules for weekend warriors
How to avoid overtraining
Importance of having a plan B if you’re a parent
Usefulness of home walls for parents
Bonus Content on Patreon
Patreon Bonus Content
There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about:
Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
How to know what’s right for YOU
Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
What is “training” exactly?
You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.
GET THE RAW INTERVIEW AND BONUS CONTENT

At the end of the interview about full-time working climbers, we talked about the following just for subscribers:

- Having FOMO when we see pros’ training plans on social media
- How to know what training is right for YOU
- Minimum effective dosage of hanging and weight lifting
- How my climbing training has evolved to be almost completely on-the-wall and why that’s still considered “training”
- What is “training” exactly?

For more nutrition and mindset advice, go to the TrainingBeta Patreon

This is a repost of the interview Steven Dimmitt did with me on episode 214 of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In it, I talk about how mindset coaching massively improved my climbing and my life, why I got into coaching, and we do some coaching on Steven throughout the interview. Thank you to Steven for having me on the show again. I always love talking to him :) 
After the interview, we did some bonus questions from his patrons about nutrition, coaching, and the business side of things. We get into it about being entrepreneurs and what it's really like for me/us as business owners, and you can find that plus the uncut video of this interview on the TrainingBeta Patreon. 

This is reposted from the Nugget Climbing Podcast for subscribers only. Neely talks about what to eat before climbing, the hardest and easiest parts of building TrainingBeta, her plans to pivot her business, and her stoicism experiment. We also talk about the many climbing podcasts entering the space, and how we each hope to stand out.

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Eating before training

(00:02:25) – Challenges with entrepreneurship

(00:04:40) – Climbing podcasts, and doubling down on our strengths

(00:08:17) – Pivoting the Training Beta business

(00:12:16) – Subscriptions and stoicism

As a 5'0" climber with a negative 1" ape index, I am well-acquainted with the feelings that can arise when you watch someone skip all the hardest moves on your project. It can be infuriating. But sometimes it's hard to tell what you're actually upset about. And sometimes you tell yourself you're being ridiculous for feeling those things at all, which is anti-helpful.

So in this bonus episode, I talk about how I've worked through my negative feelings about being a short climber. I used to care a lot about not being acknowledged for things I thought were harder for me as a short climber, and I used to feel envious of taller climbers' long reach. But having done the kind of work I will guide you through in this video, most of the time I honestly don't care anymore what other climbers are doing or how hard something feels for me as a short climber.

This is a sneak peek at what you get as a Patreon subscriber of the Full Send tier

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.