Climbing on the Bookshelf Stuart Rhodes

David Smart is known for his historical climbing biographies and in depth research on his subjects. Paul Preuss, Emilio Comici and now Royal Robbins gets the Smart treatment, all being pioneers of their age and paving the way for future generations of climbers by pushing the limits of what is possible.
We talk about his past work and his love of climbing and climbing writing and his new book on Royal Robbins "The American Climber". Also if you pay attention you get a sneak peak of what he is working on next!
You can buy the book from wherever you normally get your books from! Or here :

Royal Robbins: The American Climber — Books (mountaineers.org)


Royal Robbins: The American Climber: Amazon.co.uk: Smart, David: 9781680516586: Books

Enjoy!


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Mimi Zieman has treated frozen limbs on the highest mountain, delivered triplets near the deepest ocean trench, tap danced through Broadway studios, and has been a suburban mom of three – all experiences that have prepared her for new challenges. Her latest challenge, writing Tap Dancing on Everest, about the risks we take to become our truest selves.
A small team of four climbers would attempt a new route on the East Face (Kangshung Face) of Mt. Everest, considered the most remote and dangerous side of the mountain and only successfully climbed once before. Unlike the first larger team, Mimi Zieman's team would climb without using supplemental oxygen, porter support, or chance for rescue. She would accompany the climbers as the doctor and only woman, although she was still in her third year of medical school. Full of self-doubt, Zieman grappled with whether to go but couldn't resist the call of the mountains. When three climbers disappeared during their summit attempt, she reached the knife edge of her limits and dug deeply to fight for the climbers' lives and to find her voice.
Tap Dancing on Everest is a coming-of-age story about the risks we take to become our truest selves. Zieman weaves her childhood as the daughter of immigrants raised in 1970's New York with capturing the curiosity and awe of a young woman as she faces down messages to stay small and safe and ventures into the unknown.
Find out more about Mimi here :
https://www.mimiziemanmd.com
IG @mimiziemanmd
You can buy the book from all good bookshops.


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In the 1950's and 60's Yosemite Valley was the centre of the rock climbing universe. Camp 4 was the gathering place for the "Golden Age" of Yosemite climbing.
Steve Roper lived in Yosemite Valley for nearly 10 years, this is his story from the inside of that era. In 1967 he co founded the Sierra Club magazine "Ascent" with Allen Steck, he was the author of and "Fifty classic climbs" which is still used today and not forgetting "Camp 4 - Recollections of a Yosemite climber" which was such a significant book that it was used against the Park Rangers in a legal battle against them closing Camp 4! . In this candid and raw interview he talks about his early years climbing and his writings of the books mentioned above.

Many, many thanks to the AAC Library archive with their invaluable help for the access to the interviews (shout out to Shane Johnson, Pete Takeda and Katie Sauter). Without their dedication to their work this episode would not have been possible. THANK YOU.
IG - @Americanalpine & @Alpinelibrary


IG - @Climbbookshelf
climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com




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We go again with Deucey to chat about his research for his two volumes of work "Mechanical Advantage, Tools for the wild vertical". Kindly and readily available to download as a PDF or to order and own an actual copy of the volumes (for those of you that prefer actual things!). Then eventually moving onto another use for his Portaledge design, Rain forest activism.💪 AWESOME!!
Volume 1 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609796-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical
Volume 2 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609835-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical

Google search for:
"Blurb John Middendorf" or
"Blurb Mechanical Advantage"

Check out his research on : https://www.bigwallgear.com/
OR have a look at : https://www.bigwalls.net/ Also check out his YouTube channel which has the latest talk from Flagstaff https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CoYF4fSNfZ0
Check him out on IG @johnmiddendorf4


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John "Deucey" Middendorf is one of the 80's & 90's big wall pioneers and has climbed all over the world from Baffin Island to El Cap to Pakistan. His Portaledge design revolutionised big wall climbing and has had many iterations and what he is perhaps best know for, although he has made many other types of gear. In Two parts (just like his new research volumes) we delve a little into his past, portaledges and his beautifully researched volumes (In 2 editions) "Mechanical Advantage, Tools for the wild vertical" on equipment design which you can find and buy from......

Volume 1 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609796-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical
Volume 2 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609835-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical
OR
Google search for:
"Blurb John Middendorf" or
"Blurb Mechanical Advantage"

Check out his research at https://www.bigwalls.net/ OR https://bigwallgear.com
Also check out his YouTube channel which has the latest talk from when he went to Flagstaff https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CoYF4fSNfZ0

Check him out on IG @johnmiddendorf4


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Katie Quinn AKA The Sports Librarian reviews and recommends sports literature online. Her real passion is the outdoors and mountaineering literature where I chatted to her about this, and other stuff too! Listen out for some really great recommendations of mountaineering books, films and podcasts. Her favourite book is the episodes picture. You can catch up with Katie on most socials @thesportslibrarian OR katiequinn88.com OR even check out her site on https://bookshop.org/shop/thesportslibrarian for detailed recommends. I had a great time chatting, nice one Katie! thank you ❤️
MERCH - https://ab9542.myshopify.com/

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