From the beginning, the Hermes Family knew they were in the craftsmen business. Making products that last for generations. Dave Young: Welcome to the Empire Builders Podcast, teaching business owners the not-so-secret techniques that took famous businesses from mom-and-pop to major brands. Stephen Semple is a marketing consultant, story collector, and storyteller. I’m Stephen’s sidekick and business partner, Dave Young. Before we get into today’s episode, a word from our sponsor, which is, well, it’s us, but we’re highlighting ads we’ve written and produced for our clients. So here’s one of those. [Wagmore Garage Doors Ad] Dave Young: Welcome back to the Empire Builders Podcast. Dave Young here, along with Stephen Semple. And Stephen, just before he whispered the topic in, this tells you what Stephen thinks about me. He said, “Yeah. I’ll tell you this one, but I don’t think you’re going to know about it because it’s a really high-end fashion.” Yeah. Stephen Semple: It’s not exactly what I said. Dave Young: Not … Well, I’m telling the truth in a more powerful way. And as we call them in Nebraska, Hermès, but it’s Hermès. Say it for me. Stephen Semple: I think it’s Hermès because it’s French. Dave Young: Hermès? Hermès? Stephen Semple: Yeah. Dave Young: Is the H pronounced at the beginning or not? I don’t know. Stephen Semple: I think it would be very soft. Dave Young: Scarves and things like that, that’s all I know. Stephen Semple: Well, the big thing they’re known for is handbags. Dave Young: Things I don’t own is what they’re known for. Stephen Semple: Correct. Dave Young: And I will admit you were absolutely right to think that I probably don’t know a whole lot about these people or this brand. Stephen Semple: The more I looked into this company, the more interested I got on it because I got fascinated by some of the history. Dave Young: I got to share with you just how much I don’t know about them. You see this shirt I’m wearing as we record? Stephen Semple: Yes. Dave Young: This is from the fishing department at Walmart. Not the men’s clothing section. Fishing. And I- Stephen Semple: And, Dave- Dave Young: Here’s the other thing. Stephen Semple: Dave, you don’t fish, dude. Dave Young: I don’t fish. No, I don’t. I don’t fish at all. I stumbled across these shirts one time. I’m like, “I love these shirts.” But yeah, anyway, they’re not Hermès. Stephen Semple: So this is a really interesting company. It was founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès. And he’s a German-born craftsman. And the company started in Paris. Now, what makes it super rare is here we are, close to 190 years later, and it’s still primarily owned by direct descendants of Thierry. Dave Young: Wow. Stephen Semple: There you go, Dave. Dave Young: Okay. That’s pretty cool. That’s a family business. Stephen Semple: That’s interesting on its own, isn’t it? Dave Young: Mm-hmm. Stephen Semple: So the family owns somewhere between 65 and 70% of the business, and is publicly traded at around a valuation of about $200 billion. Dave Young: That’s a lot of billion. Stephen Semple: That’s a couple of billion, isn’t it? Dave Young: Yeah. Wow. Okay. Stephen Semple: They only have like 70% of that 200 billion, so … Dave Young: Oh. Well, just downgraded their jet. Stephen Semple: Yeah. That’s it. So in 2010, the luxury giant LVMH tried to take the company over, and the family blocked it. There was a time where they tried to take over. And the CEO, Axel Dumas, is a sixth generation member of the Hermès family. So today, they have 300 stores. They do 14 billion EU, which is about 16 billion US in sales, which means they sell $50 million per store. Dave Young: I was going to say that’s not very many stores. Stephen Semple: No. And put in perspective, Gucci does about 25 million. Prada does half of that. Tiffany’s does about 15 million per store. $50 million per store. Dave Young: It’s got to be a front for something else. Stephen Semple: Now, their big product, so we talked about … Is this handbag called the Birkin bag. And the Birkin bag sells for anywhere from $10,000 to $100,000 per bag. Dave Young: Get out of town. Stephen Semple: Yeah. And often sells for more- Dave Young: Is it bottomless? Can you crawl into it? Stephen Semple: Seemingly, it’s a pretty big bag. I personally- Dave Young: Will it transport you to other dimensions? Stephen Semple: I personally have never known anybody who’s had one, so I can’t really comment. Dave Young: No. No. I just want to touch one. Stephen Semple: And here’s the other crazy thing, is they often sell for more on the secondary market. Dave Young: Sure. Stephen Semple: Yeah. Dave Young: Why not? Stephen Semple: They’re super- Dave Young: Because they only make a couple of them, or enough to sell. Stephen Semple: They’re super scarce. You cannot walk into a store and buy one. There’s a waiting list. Dave Young: Wow. Okay. Stephen Semple: Even celebrities, doesn’t matter who you are, have to get on the waiting list. They’ve really leaned into this whole idea of scarcity. Dave Young: Yeah. Stephen Semple: They’ve really leaned into it. Dave Young: How many billion dollars worth of scarcity? Stephen Semple: Oh, in terms of their sales? Dave Young: 300 stores. And how much per store? Stephen Semple: Well, 50 million a store. Dave Young: It doesn’t feel like scarcity, but when the handbags are 10,000 and up … Wow. Stephen Semple: And to this day, the leather bags use the original hand saddle stitching. Every bag is made by one person, beginning to end, handcrafted. Their scarves, which are also really known for, are hand screen printed. The edges are all hand rolled. And the CEO personally signs off on every product. Dave Young: All right. Stephen Semple: So there is this real high level of craftsmanship with it. So Thierry was born in 1801 in Krefeld, Germany. And at the time, that part of Germany was under the control of Bonaparte, which made him a French citizen. So that’s why though he was German-born, French citizen. Dave Young: Oh. Okay. Stephen Semple: And the town was known for textiles and was considered the city of velvet and silk. And in 1821, most of his family had died of famine and disease due to the war. So he moved to Normandy, where he learned the art of saddle and harness making under the Palmieri family. 1828, he married. And in 1837, he moved to Paris and opened an equestrian supply store. I’m going to butcher this. Dave Young: Of course you are. Stephen Semple: Rue Basse-du-Rempart. Dave Young: You said it perfectly. Stephen Semple: Okay. There we go. There, he made bridals, harnesses, carriage fittings using leather and wrought iron, right? And he became famous for a particularly strong saddle stitch that basically uses this opposite stitching. If one of the stitches broke, the other held. Dave Young: Now, here’s what I know about horses in Paris. Stephen Semple: Okay. Dave Young: Ain’t no cowboys over there. So again, this is the rich folk doing equestrian things and pulling carriages. Stephen Semple: That’s it. It was a mode of transportation. Dave Young: Yeah. The average folk are walking around the streets of Paris. Stephen Semple: Correct. Correct. It was the nobility who had horses and carriages. Now, that original stitch is still the stitch that’s being used today. Dave Young: Hey, if it works. Stephen Semple: Yeah. So this stitch is important to the history because to your point, horses and carriages were a mode of transportation. And, look, the roads were rough. Transportation was rough. So durability was really important. And his skill attracted the nobility. People like Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III. So Thierry went on to win several medals for this design and his work. And he became known because his stitching did not break, the leather aged beautifully, and the workmanship was flawless under stress. So he died in 1878. And his son, Charles-Émile, took over. And like his dad, he was dedicated to this quality. The business expanded. They started creating more products, including these really large bags that could actually carry a saddle and the boots, right? Because- Dave Young: Wow. Okay. That is a big bag. Stephen Semple: Right? Because if you had a horse and you’re showing up, you take the saddle, you take the boots off, right? Dave Young: Yeah. Yeah. Stephen Semple: And it’s really considered the forerunner to this big handbag that they make today. So you’re asking, “Is it big?” It’s a big