25 episodes

Ever wish you had a personal mentorship with a climbing specific sports medicine provider? One at your fingertips who you could ask all the big questions to? That's exactly what you have with this podcast! Join Dr. Lisa Erikson-Brin, author of Climbing Injuries Solved, past USAClimbing medical and writer for Climbing Magazine for guidance, self-care tips, and step-by-step recommendations to help you get through the toughest aches and pains. Tune in weekly wherever you get your podcasts. Access your freebies and tutorials at at climbinginjuriesolved.com

Un-Sprained Dr. Lisa Brin

    • Health & Fitness
    • 5.0 • 1 Rating

Ever wish you had a personal mentorship with a climbing specific sports medicine provider? One at your fingertips who you could ask all the big questions to? That's exactly what you have with this podcast! Join Dr. Lisa Erikson-Brin, author of Climbing Injuries Solved, past USAClimbing medical and writer for Climbing Magazine for guidance, self-care tips, and step-by-step recommendations to help you get through the toughest aches and pains. Tune in weekly wherever you get your podcasts. Access your freebies and tutorials at at climbinginjuriesolved.com

    Nasty Feet- What Research Says About Climbers And What You Can Do About It

    Nasty Feet- What Research Says About Climbers And What You Can Do About It

    Today we jump in to the nasty topic of feet. Or those feet which have been ruined by climbing shoes, cramped quarters, and pulling hard.
    I'm excited to cover a new Spanish research study on foot pain in climbers (April 2022)and what the takeaway is for self-care, home-care and prevention.
    Topics hit up:
    >> Bunions
    >> Halux Valgus
    >> Bursitis
    >>Claw toe deformity
    >> Age vs abuse
    >>And much more

    Today I hit up these topics as well as give you info on an upcoming episode with Marissa, a climbing specific nutritionist (Nutrition for Climbing, 2020).

    Don't forget to grab my CANDO HandWeb deal, I'm selling out of all stock, when its gone, its GONE!!
    See you next time, same place same time. And our episodes are bimonthly through the summer to make more room for... Climbing (and the clinic!) See you soon! Dr. Lisa
    Questions?! Email me at drlisabrindc@gmail.com

    • 30 min
    Episode 24- My Big 3 Reasons Injuries Don’t Heal. Why Is My Injury Not Healing!?

    Episode 24- My Big 3 Reasons Injuries Don’t Heal. Why Is My Injury Not Healing!?

    So you’ve done everything and your injury is still rearing it’s ugly head. It’s time to get down and nasty… with updating your wheelhouse ….to ensure you not only heal… but thrive.
    Joi me for todays podcast to hit up the big 3 reasons why your injury is not healing, and *what* you can do instead.
    that lasts.



    Check out Unsprained Episode 10- 3 Simple Tricks To Implement Now To Boost Your Volume for Simple effective tricks that you can implement NOW to help craft your comeback..


    So for the big 3 reasons why your injury is not healing:

    >> We discuss strength training around and at an injury site.
    >> Incorrect applications of strength training.
    >> Time off for proper recovery
    >> When do we stop healing as fast (age) human growth hormone,
    >>Knowing how long it takes our bodies to heal.
    >> High stress, not enough sleep, horrible diets,
    >> Overcoming other physical issues that take energy and the bodies focus to heal.
    >>Too much load outside of climbing .
    >>Other daily activities also using your hands.

    >>Ergonomics at work and injury prevention/healing.
    >> Developing a different tissue that has a better base health.

    
I love to give supporting materials, so if you love checklists, pop onto my website to go through a list of things you can do to make yourself better. climbinginjuriessolved.com

    If you liked this episode, check out Episode 16, perfect warmups.
    I'd love a like or a share and don't forget to grab your bonus material on my website, climbinginjuriessolved.com
    See you next week, same great time same great place! Questions, reach out at drlisabrindc@gmail.com

    • 24 min
    Episode 23- 5 Exercises For Shoulder Stability

    Episode 23- 5 Exercises For Shoulder Stability

    Today we hit up the shoulder. There is SO much to cover in terms of pain and rehab, but today, I hit my 5 exercises to help YOU become injury free. We hit up theraband exercises specifically for the scapula (the shoulder blade) and discuss WHY you should be pulling with it instead of your fingers.
    Join me for exercises that mimic climbing as much as possible for aretes, clipping that draw, reaching to that next hold, climbing overhangs, and much more.

    Check out my website for free resources at climbinginjuriessolved.com/learn-with-lisa for building some momentum in your climbing.
    All the exercises will soon be up at climbinginjuriessolved.com/shoulder

    I'm honored you listened today! Leave me a like or share with a friend to help spread the good vibes?!

    • 31 min
    Unsprained Episode 22- 5 Symptoms to Tell If Your Finger Is Injured Or Overworked.

    Unsprained Episode 22- 5 Symptoms to Tell If Your Finger Is Injured Or Overworked.

    Have a finger that you feel is on the cusp of injury? Debating whether your finger is truly injured or just a result of overtraining? Often we climb to the strength of our shoulders and our minds, but not our fingers. Overuse injuries of the finger can often be noticed too late in our sport, leading to unwanted time off.

    Welcome to Episode 22 of UnSprained, a must-listen for five common symptoms to assist in assessment of if your finger is injured, or if you are just overtraining. I not only give you my 5 big symptoms, but guidance with what I'd recommend for each with an action plan for you to claw your way back to health. I'm here with guidance that should give you the self esteem and the building blocks to make your year a great one.
    Ok, for the first symptom, which can be a bit tricky...


    #1: Pain with Load


    Pain is a pretty great indicator. Mainly, this “check engine light” is one that your body uses over and over to tell you not to use an injury, and also a PRE injury. Essentially, your body is trying to protect your finger.
    You can have stabbing pain, sharp pain, a glimmer of pain (its here and then its gone) or a momentary strange symptom that never appears again. Many of you have had quick pains that were never felt again, so pain is the most common, but the most useless indicator of if you are truly injured. Now I'm talking momentary pain. Pain associated with a true injury (an impact, a jarring force, a fall where a finger gets stuck in a pocket or a crack is often a quick indictor that yes, you are injured… but it isn’t the most specific indicator of a big injury. So don’t let pain be the first and foremost indicator you listen to. I've seen many injuries that are BIG that have NO pain associated with them. And that’s scary. Myself, I’ve had 7+ fractures, many of which feel like a quick bee sting, and then squishy, or increasingly painful. So let the increase or the ramping up of symptoms also be important, (perhaps more than just a sharp pain itself).

    As climbers we have a ton of pain right, mainly on the pads of our fingers, and as we get blisters and lose skin. Its part of the game.

    Still on the #1 symptom of pain, now we know it can be a mirage, not really telling us the true story, or the full story. so lets get more into that…

    Listen every week, same great time same great place. Join me at climbinginjuriessolved.com for free downloads, step by step plans, and skills to get you climbing again.

    If you like this podcast, will you share it?! Thanks!!

    • 34 min
    Newbie Love- 5 Newbie Lessons I Wished I'd Learned.

    Newbie Love- 5 Newbie Lessons I Wished I'd Learned.

    In a sport that is exploding such as rock climbing, chances are you are either a newbie, or you are climbing next to one at the gym or crag. This episode is focused on what I wish I knew as a newbie, and as guidance for those who are currently supporting or cheering on a new climber.

    We are only as strong as our weakest link. And a new climber needs to understand their skills, and their level of learning far surpass their grade. Join along as we hit the following hard topics:

    >>What should newbies be focusing on for training?
    >>How quickly should a new climber progress through the grades?
    >> What should you be recommending for a new climber to focus on?
    >> What skill sets are important for a new climber?
    >> What tools should a new climber buy (or borrow) to begin learning important self-care techniques?
    >> Why chasing grades can be dangerous and a set-back
    >> Why working on your weaknesses is the best (and hardest) goal
    >> Why core matters more than finger strength
    >> And more!

    Join me for my big 5 recommendations that I WISH someone had TOLD ME and my action plan for building any newbie (even yourself) up with a big beautiful base.

    We are an injured, unhealed sport, join me for a discussion and comparison with football, track and field (sprinting) and tennis.

    I'd rather see you at the crag or the gym than in my clinic. Share this episode with your injured or newbie friends and please add any recommendations YOU wish YOU had been given when you were new ;-)

    See you next week, same great time, same great place!!

    XX,

    Dr Lisa

    • 36 min
    Episode 21 MINI: What to do About Pain & Stiffness In The Back Of The Hand & Fingers

    Episode 21 MINI: What to do About Pain & Stiffness In The Back Of The Hand & Fingers

    Do you suffer from pain or stiffness in the back of the hand and fingers? Join Dr. Lisa for Episode 21 of a current patient, symptoms and care, and guidance for this strange tension based syndrome that (spoiler alert) ends with great results. Climbers are predisposed to adhesions, or scar tissue that adheres the skin to the gliding structures beneath the skin (think tendon, fascia and muscle). In today's episode (a MINI because I am on vacation Climbing in Moab!), we hit up many topics that can clear up the stiffest of hands.

    In Today's Episode:
    >> Learn what adhesions are
    >> Learn why adhesions form
    >> How are climbers predisposed
    >> Research on hand adhesions (and pain)
    >> Test out a self-care "tester" session
    >> Learn guided recommendations
    (how much, how often, with what)
    >> Graston, Guasha, Wavetool, and Armaid discussed
    >> And more!

    I'm excited to give you concrete guidance in which the test is also the treatment. If you test this out, and notice great results, it is your recommended homework.

    Happy Spring Break. Make sure to LIKE this episode if you enjoyed it and please share it with a friend if you think it might help them! We are stronger as a team!
    Also, check out my latest youtube video (@thelcimbingdoc) on how to use the WaveTools Therapy Arete on this area for best results. 30 seconds, once a week, thats seriously all it takes for many symptoms to go away (IF it is adhesion/scar tissue related). Test this out and see if it helps!

    See you next week. same great time, same great place!


    XX,

    Dr. Lisa

    • 25 min

Customer Reviews

5.0 out of 5
1 Rating

1 Rating

Top Podcasts In Health & Fitness

Scicomm Media
Jay Shetty
Aubrey Gordon & Michael Hobbes
Rob Dial and Kast Media
TED
Betches Media

You Might Also Like