The Struggle Climbing Show

Ryan Devlin

Named one of Climbing Magazine’s favorite podcasts. 2M+ Downloads! If you love rock climbing, self-improvement, and inspiring stories... chalk up and pull on.

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  1. 22 Jul

    Weekend Warrior: Busting Plateaus, Intentional Training, and Intuitive Eating

    Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores: Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet Quitting climbing for 32 years  Ninja training crossover  Being more intentional with training  Focusing on technique The power of reflection and journaling  How to avoid gym distractions  Training indoors for just a few outdoor days Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food Drill work to improve movement The benefit of “coaching” our friends  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Low Hanging Gains 00:56 Meet Jeff Ashe 09:53 Jeffs Climbing Roots 15:18 Life Break From Climbing 18:01 Return After 32 Years 22:59 Old School Ethics 23:50 Rebuilding At 50 Plus 26:02 Arcteryx Academy Plug 27:15 Shoe Gear Talk 27:43 Scarpa Shoe Picks 29:10 Software Engineer Origins 30:12 Tech Then and Now 32:03 Houston Gym Routine 34:04 Intentional Technique Gains 39:16 Planning Sessions and Drills 43:30 Outdoor Goals and Route Style 50:08 Intuitive Eating Coaching 54:57 Root Causes and Habit Fixes 58:40 Journaling Patterns in Training 01:00:33 Exaggerate Hip Technique 01:02:45 Drills and Coaching Tools 01:04:29 Film Your Sessions 01:07:38 What to Look For 01:12:12 Board Video Comparisons 01:13:24 Train Hard Then Have Fun 01:14:44 Summer Endurance Goals 01:17:10 Community Feedback and App 01:22:02 Jet Lag and Australia Trip 01:25:19 Back Injury and Reset 01:27:01 Training Plan Ahead 01:28:45 Closing Motivation   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

    Weekend Warrior: Busting Plateaus, Intentional Training, and Intuitive Eating
  2. 21 Jul • Subscribers Only

    EARLY & AD-FREE | Weekend Warrior: Busting Plateaus, Intentional Training, and Intuitive Eating

    Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores: Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet Quitting climbing for 32 years Ninja training crossover Being more intentional with training Focusing on technique The power of reflection and journaling How to avoid gym distractions Training indoors for just a few outdoor days Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food Drill work to improve movement The benefit of “coaching” our friends - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Weekend Warrior Intro 06:10 Jeff Joins the Show 07:07 Quick Demographics 07:28 Texas Heat Climbing 09:04 Sport Climbing Focus 09:56 Started in the 80s 13:07 Albuquerque Scene Then 14:43 Gear and Bolting Era 15:18 Stepping Away From Climbing 18:01 Return After 32 Years 19:39 Ninja to Climbing Comeback 22:29 Modern Style and Head Game 23:50 Biggest Struggles Now 26:04 Software Engineer Life 29:14 Gym Setup and Routine 31:34 Intentional Progress and App 33:27 Technique Notes That Matter 36:05 Weekly Training Priorities 39:34 Staying Focused in Sessions 40:20 Goals Indoors vs Outdoors 40:51 Chasing 12A Outside 43:23 Mental Game and Route Choice 45:54 Heel Hooks and Style Fit 46:57 Intuitive Eating Explained 51:46 Symptoms Not Problems 54:12 Applying Root Cause to Climbing 55:30 Journaling for Intentional Sessions 57:14 Drills and Exaggerated Technique 01:01:18 Video Review for Movement Gains 01:09:02 Board Climbing and Smart Downtime 01:11:34 Summer Training and App Roadmap 01:16:42 Wrap Up and App Offer 01:18:51 Jet Lag and Australia Climbing 01:22:09 Back Injury and Training Reset 01:23:50 Looking Ahead to Fall Goals - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard.

    EARLY & AD-FREE | Weekend Warrior: Busting Plateaus, Intentional Training, and Intuitive Eating
  3. 24 Jun

    Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results

    Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: How to test critical force  Why it matters My critical force test Why MVC is still king How critical force tells us what to train  Improving power endurance on and off wall The big change I’m making to my training now What boulderers should focus on kill Why so many pros don’t test finger strength    Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.   Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser 00:22 Show Intro and Focus 01:39 Critical Force Explained 05:20 Host Updates Australia 06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson 08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown 11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers 15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau 18:23 Testing Method Matters 23:58 Who Should Use This 25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad 26:59 What Results Mean Training 31:42 Route Goal Flower Power 33:28 Training Interventions Percentages 41:49 No Gear Testing Options 43:49 Treadwall for Endurance 45:28 How To Train From Metrics 47:38 Critical Force Takeaways 48:57 Power Endurance Priority 50:28 Training Tools Setup 52:09 Active Rest Explained 53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks 56:11 Retesting and Progress 57:35 Elite Curve and Technique 01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing 01:04:00 More Quality Attempts 01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details 01:11:41 In Season Projecting 01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season 01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol 01:23:49 My Current Training Plan 01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

    Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results
  4. 17 Jun

    Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

    Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional     Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Elite climber Adam Ondra explores: Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders How he’s stronger than ever at 33 The new training tools he’s using  The truth about his "secret" crimp grips  Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?) His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts  Training solo vs with a crew  Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 App Announcement 01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra 03:46 Life in Arco Italy 05:39 Smith Rock Stories 06:57 Retiring From Comps 08:49 Flash Mindset Explained 12:20 Training Tools and Crew 16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown 19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx 20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex 22:35 Strength Testing Habits 24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb 32:09 Flash vs Project Potential 35:02 App Break Intentional 37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts 38:47 Flash Warmup Routine 40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely 43:37 Solo vs Crew Training 46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility 51:39 Sport Climbing Goals 53:49 Arco New Route Potential 55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated 59:20 What Makes 9C Plus 01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing 01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo 01:09:45 Host Training Update 01:11:13 Intentional Climber App 01:14:29 Final Wrap Up   - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

    Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes
  5. 16 Jun • Subscribers Only

    EARLY & AD-FREE | Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

    Elite climber Adam Ondra explores: - Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders - How he’s stronger than ever at 33 - The new training tools he’s using - The truth about his "secret" crimp grips - Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?) - His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts - Training solo vs with a crew - Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 App Announcement 01:15 Meet Adam Ondra 03:46 Life in Arco 05:39 Smith Rock Stories 06:57 Retiring From Comps 09:25 Flash Mindset 12:20 Training Tools 16:49 Board Climbing Transfer 19:08 Testing and Weaknesses 21:20 Thumb Crimp Hacks 28:32 Bouldering vs Routes 31:29 Flash Warmup Routine 35:25 Using Beta Videos 37:36 Solo vs Crew Training 39:11 Staying on Plan 40:55 Regimen by Discipline 43:13 Energy Systems Explained 46:05 Sport Goals in Arco 48:14 Bolting New Hard Lines 50:07 Will 9C Get Repeated 53:45 What Makes 9C Plus 56:13 Conditions and Pressure 57:57 Why the Stoke Lasts 01:01:19 Wrap and Bonus Tease 01:04:11 Host Training Update 01:05:38 Intentional Climber App 01:08:54 Final Thanks and Outro - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

    EARLY & AD-FREE | Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

About

Named one of Climbing Magazine’s favorite podcasts. 2M+ Downloads! If you love rock climbing, self-improvement, and inspiring stories... chalk up and pull on.

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