Hairspring

Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

  1. 10 hr ago

    Episode 102: Jason Fried

    This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more.  Links Mentioned: The MIH: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-elusive-mih-watch-up-for-grabs https://www.ablogtowatch.com/mih-watch-review/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mih-gaia-watch 105.012: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-65-omega-speedmaster Steel Lange 1: https://langepedia.com/stainless-steel-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-one-101026-steel (We were wrong around this timestamp Lange are at about 7,000 watches annually) Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ Inline Patek QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing 90% of Astons are still on the road: https://www.carthrottle.com/news/90-cent-aston-martin-cars-ever-built-are-still-road Rapide: https://www.the-intercooler.com/library/blog/man-maths-aston-martin-rapide/ Lagonda: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-aston-martin-lagonda-3/ Resonance Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/229536 T10: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Watch Jason is Googling Often: https://hairspring.com/products/sbgz005 Watch that Floored in Person: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/740-056-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-1 3 Watch Roll: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-patek-philippe-3670a-a-new-chronograph-in-st https://hairspring.com/products/701-011-pour-le-merite-tourbillon-pink-gold https://www.acollectedman.com/products/t10-tourbillon-40mm-platinum Only Wrist: https://naoyahidawatch.com/new-release/nh-type-7a/?lang=en https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/heuer-3646-second-execution-autavia https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honeygold

  2. 21 Jul

    Episode 99: Unusual Vacheron Constantin (Venturing Beyond the Overseas and 222)

    From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention.  Links Mentioned: Keith Mitchell TW: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches 333: https://www.iconeek.com/auction-lot/vacheron-constantin-333-automatic-333-re_53e43b99be 2045: https://www.stephaniewindsor.com/products/vacheron-constantin https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21934/lot/195/vacheron-constantin-a-fine-18ct-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-mint-green-dial-made-for-the-libyan-market-ref2045-circa-1976/ 4072: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/vacheron-constantin-reference-4072 https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/127999 4178: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/159992 49002: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt 43040: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jump-hour-43040-yellow-gold-1 6087: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 4764 ‘Cioccolatone’: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/90901 6562: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-steel-automatic-watch-ref-6562 6111: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633 2215: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2215-vacheron-constantin-royal-chronometer-1 https://www.hodinkee.com/magazine/ronnie-fieg 43031: https://hairspring.com/products/43031-perpetual-calendar-guilloche-dial-platinum 43032: https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum Don Pancho: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/125233 4261: https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/03/vacheron-constantin-minute-repeater-4261-les-collectionneurs.html 6448: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/176180 ‘Renaissance’: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-platinum-renaissance-ref-92084-incoming?srsltid=AfmBOoqbwD5TY11FkcNSn7gSE0KMsg9fakqtpPWifw1UEGgq1vTale2U 43050: https://hairspring.com/products/43050-mercator-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/enamel-taiwan-dial-43050-vacheron-constantin-mercator https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394747 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758993 Harmony: https://rarist.pl/en/products/harmony-71201-saudi-arabia Serpenti: https://thekeystone.com/products/vacheron-constantin-tubogas-snake-watch-retailed-by-bulgari 30030: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/reference-30030-a-pink-gold-skeletonized-minute Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/229790 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/226230

  3. 26 Jun

    Episode 97: Our Unpopular Opinions

    While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here.  University of Utah Hot on Journe?: https://shorturl.at/cSCXN 6538 at Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless Petermann Bédat 2941: https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html Pinaud Chronograph: https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/ LeComte: https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/ A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept: https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/ Famous Lange Service 17K Bill: https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/ 3970: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum 3940: https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Auctions Primer: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide 881101/01 Clapton: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax Patek’s March to Silicon: https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/ Rolex Silicon: https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/ A Great Moonphase Read: https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

  4. 17 Mar

    Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

    This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy.  Links Mentioned:  Voutilainen’s Early Story: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve: https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html Comblémine SA: https://comblemine.ch Observatoire: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 Urban Jürgensen Relaunch: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 Pratt Oval Pocket Watch: https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently: https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853 Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case The 3 Watch Roll: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1

  5. 20 Feb

    Episode 88: Audemars Piguet Beyond the Royal Oak

    Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD.  Links Mentioned:  5516: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar John Shaeffer Collecting Guide: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters 25881 Explainer: https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret 25881 Purple Dial: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881 Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webp https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/165533 5072: https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-1955 5503: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here) 831: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831 Collaboration Work with Cartier: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!) https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=1 1533: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/122598 25681PT ‘Clover’: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey 5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan: https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/ 25557: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost) https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar 5548: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique AP Calibre 2003: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-2003 5093BC: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volante A l’Emeraude QP: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145 (Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/) 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 6196P: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold

  6. 11 Feb

    Episode 87: Our Ultimate 3 Watch Collections

    The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician.  Links Mentioned:  404.032: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split 6105: https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-272 Early Datejust Reading: https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Clapton 5004R: https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/HK080216/1011 2497G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/160474 345.0809: https://www.omegaspeedymoon.com 403.041 Yellowjacket: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080320/240 Black 5004G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/193506 2915: https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/article/121350662/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-pisa 414.028: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/181134 Bao Dai: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90349 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bảo_Đại WMT: https://www.phillips.com/detail/wmt-(watch-experimental-unit)/202955 YG Brass Resonance: https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinum Yosuke & Dufour: https://www.instagram.com/p/DScn5Qaklh4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== RRCCII: https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two Laurent Ferrier Phillips: https://hairspring.com/products/hommage-ii-for-phillips-steel 5516: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel03_05v2 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3770-patek-philippe-nautellipse

  7. 29 Jan

    Episode 86: 3940 and Onwards, The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar Pt. 2

    It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s the second half Patek Philippe of the ‘pure’ QP bloodline this week.  Links Mentioned:  Zeitwerk Press Photo: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-honeygold-lumen Technical Review of 240 Q: https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/technical-review-of-the-mythical-240-caliber-from-patek-philippe First Series 3940: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191571 Evolution of Just First Series Dials Alone: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/the-three-dials-of-1st-series-patek-philippe-ref-3940 Early Second Series 3941: https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold Late Second Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/143107 Third Series: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Beyer First Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/183202 Interesting ‘Syrup’ 24-Hour indicator patina: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/sales-corner/p/1992-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-3940-platinum-collector-set Roman 3940: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/3940g-025-roman-dial-change-to-3940g-013-classic--value-impact/11.1590521.15856176/ 3945 (Soldered Bracelet): https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/215848?fromSearch=3945 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6102706 Saatchi History: https://www.phillips.com/article/144079689/patek-philippe-saatchi-edition-london-2015-grand-exhibition-about 5039: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5039g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5040: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5049P: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/ 5136: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/195786 5139: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/210732?fromSearch=5139 5050: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224366?fromSearch=5050 5059: https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-officers-case-perpetual-calendar-ref-5059g/ 5140: https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-5140g 5940: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5940g 5327: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-001 5320: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing 5236: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing Pocket Watch 725: https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-pocket-watch-725-2 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16018-datejust-birch-wood-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

  8. 6 Jan

    Episode 84: A Year in Auctions, with a Market Update

    The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable results, and our wildcards. Plus, an Only Wrist for the most significant chronographs of all time.  Links Mentioned: Watches We Wish We’d Had the Funds to Buy: https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/191665 https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/226566 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/224005 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6538-submariner-big-crown-james-bond-a https://www.phillips.com/detail/voutilainen/223968 https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/lange-1/little-lange-1/little-lange-1-in-750-white-gold-181-038 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-2438-1-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar Opportunities We Missed: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534101 https://www.phillips.com/detail/piaget/224987 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-70 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6534094 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/216658 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/213832 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-ba-145-022-69-speedmaster-gus-grissom-a Problem Watches: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/216213 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-25 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/216432 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-48 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6558481 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567932 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2501/reference-6034-a-pink-gold-chronograph-wristwatch https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6567913 https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-le-coultre/225242 Values: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/223633 https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-7 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-6/reference-3147-carrera-dato-45-a-stainless-steel https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-404-032-saxonia-double-split-a-pink-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/210819 Unreasonable Numbers: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224435 https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224804 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/octa-chronograph-ruthenium-a-limited-edition Wildcard: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-3/reference-3945-dore-a-yellow-gold-perpetual https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-237 https://flightbirds.net/publio-magini-the-sistema-magini/ (History of the Magini Trip) https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-2/reference-6100-dragon-an-exquisite-and-rare-yellow Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/5970r-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-5070p-patek-philippe-chronograph

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About

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

Information

  • Creator
    Hairspring
  • Years Active
    2023 - 2026
  • Episodes
    102
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Copyright
    © Hairspring
  • Show Website
    Hairspring

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