Hairspring

Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

  1. 7 hrs ago

    Episode 97: Our Unpopular Opinions

    While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here.  University of Utah Hot on Journe?: https://shorturl.at/cSCXN 6538 at Sotheby’s: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless Petermann Bédat 2941: https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html Pinaud Chronograph: https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com/the-monopoussoir-chronograph/ LeComte: https://monochrome-watches.com/florent-lecomte-a-recently-discovered-gem-of-independent-watchmaking/ A bit on Akrivia and MHC/BNB Concept: https://revolutionwatch.com/the-three-kings-of-independent-watchmaking/ Famous Lange Service 17K Bill: https://www.reddit.com/r/ALangeSohne/comments/1gmdmha/17k_service_bill/ 3970: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3970ep-small-hallmark-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum 3940: https://hairspring.com/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Auctions Primer: https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/buying-watch-auction-guide 881101/01 Clapton: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/881101-01-clapton-universal-geneve-tri-compax Patek’s March to Silicon: https://collectability.com/learn/patek-philippe-advanced-research-made-simple/ Rolex Silicon: https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-dynapulse-escapement-in-depth-technical-explanation-5hz-calibre-7135-syloxi-hairspring-review/ A Great Moonphase Read: https://jackforster.substack.com/p/challenge-to-watchmakers-whos-up Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/h11-central-balance-blue-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/insight-micro-rotor-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/2526j-calatrava-frecerro-dial-yellow-gold https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/

    1h 1m
  2. Jun 9

    Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8)

    This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today.  Links Mentioned:  Arkansas: https://crystalbridges.org 6105G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001 5170: https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold 5172: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos Tamara Ralph: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch/ap-x-tamara-ralph.html 15202: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A.html VC 56: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-fiftysix-self-winding VC Quai de L’Île: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-quai-de-lile-in-steel Cabaret: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-cabaret-tourbillon-in-honeygold Saxonia: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-saxonia/ NYC Watch Guy’s Analysis: https://medium.com/@nycwatchguys/the-bull-case-for-watches-9a56450baf1e @Niccoloy: https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/ @Young.Brando: https://www.instagram.com/young.brando/ WatchCharts (Hit Max Timeline): https://watchcharts.com/watches/indexes?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email 5251 Portofino: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5251-iwc-portofino-moonphase UJ: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/reference-8-yellow-gold 5020: https://www.phillips.com/article/133156594/patek-philippe-5020-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-guide John Shaeffer: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/205999 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/201306 Tank Monopoussoir: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/cartier-cpcp-2846-tank-monopoussoir Hamatic: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-moritz-grossmann-hamatic-argente-pendulum-winding-calibre-106-saxony-glashutte-rose-gold-specs-price-review/ 1463: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/122018 5070:  https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-5070g-014-patek-philippe-chronograph PLM: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ 1675: https://hairspring.com/products/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel Deadbeat Seconds: https://thedeadbeatseconds.substack.com Grantland: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grantland Look at my *Expletive* Red Trousers: https://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.com 1815 Thin Honey: https://hairspring.com/products/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r 5374: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5374g-001 Independent Picks: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/chronometre-artisans https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-prussian-blue-white-gold-1 https://www.phillips.com/detail/petermann-bedat/205470 2RE: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ferdinand-berthoud-fb-2re-1 Handmade: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/01/greubel-forsey-hand-made-1-review.html 6238: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6238-pre-daytona-chronograph-black-galvanic-dial-steel-1 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/sport-auto-blue-titanium https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

    1h 25m
  3. May 25

    Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present)

    Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way.  Links Mentioned:  https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein The Richemont Umbrella: https://www.richemont.com Fabian Krone Interview: https://people.timezone.com/mdisher/lange/fkint/fkinterview.htm Anthony de Haas Interviews: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/history-a-lange-sohne-anthony-de-hass https://revolutionwatch.com/lange-sohne-anthony-de-haas-zeitwerk-minute-repeater/ Tino Bobe Interviews: https://yachtstyle.co/a-lange-sohnes-tino-bobe-on-keeping-time-with-tradition/ https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/tino-bobe-a-lange-sohne/ https://www.luxuo.com/leaders/watches-leaders/securing-the-future.html Krone-Era Watches: Lange 1 Tourbillon: https://hairspring.com/products/704-025-lange-1-tourbillon-platinum https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-tourbillon/ Langematik QP: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/310-021-langematik-perpetual-calendar-yellow-gold Double Split: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-double-split-rattrapante/ Tourbograph PLM: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/141658 Zeitwerk Story: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum-1 https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/10/lange-zeitwerk-guide.html Wilhelm Schmid Interviews: https://oracleoftime.com/a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-interview/ https://www.watchpro.com/the-big-interview-a-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid/ https://squaremile.com/watches/wilhelm-schmid-ceo-lange-sohne-interview/ https://www.watchonista.com/articles/interviews/chat-lange-sohne-ceo-wilhelm-schmid-about-numbers-community-and-luxury-retail Datograph U/D: https://hairspring.com/products/405-035-datograph-up-down-platinum Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar-tourbillon/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-tourbillon-lumen Grand Comp: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/grand-complication https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication 2015 New Manufacture: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-opens-new-manufactory-building Triple Split: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-triple-split-introducing Odysseus: https://hairspring.com/products/363-179-odysseus-steel https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-odysseus/ Distribution: https://revolutionwatch.com/a-lange-sohne-salons-boutiques/ Honey Gold: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/honey-gold-watches Lumen: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/lumen Handwerkskunst: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/handwerkskunst-editions Favorites: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-dubail-white-gold https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/176317 https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/1815/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange/tourbograph-perpetual-honeygold-homage-to-f-a-lange-in-750-honeygold-706-050 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-i-2/lange-1-leon-martens-maastricht-reference-101-047 https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/153737  Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/403-035-datograph-first-generation-platinum https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/167254

    1h 37m
  4. May 14

    Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting

    Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers.  Links Mentioned:  The Three Sales in Question: https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601 https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-31080/ The PLM Result over 1M: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4/tourbillon-pour-le-merite-reference-701-007-a Prototype Urban Jurgensen: https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jürgensen/231710 Prototype AP: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584403 https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080226 Sports Betting: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584544 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584458 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/231677 https://www.phillips.com/detail/auffret-paris/231274 https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/chronometre-bleu-reference-cb-a-tantalum https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584401 Highest Hammer Relative to Estimate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232384 https://www.phillips.com/detail/f.p.-journe/229223 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191622 Wildcard That Could be 1/3 or 3X Estimate: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584504 Case Patina: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191674 Cleaned 1526: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191577 5007P: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/232263 Only Wrist: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6139093 https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/passion-time-important-private-collection-watches-timepieces-online/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-royal-oak-moon-phases-2237/201101

    1h 20m
  5. Apr 29

    Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026

    Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider.  Links Mentioned:  Winners: Streamliner 34: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm Streamliner QP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-moser-streamliner-perpetual-concept Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel Saxonia Annual 36: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-downsizes-the-saxonia-annual-calendar-to-36mm Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold Lange 1 Tourbillon QP Lumen: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-lange-1-tourbillon-perpetual-calendar-lumen Precious OP: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-goes-full-solid-gold-in-34mm-and-28mm-ref-124205-and-276208 Alternate: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Enamel Daytona: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-126502-in-rolesium-with-enamel-dial-and-grey-bezel Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/128046 VC: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-2500v https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-dual-time-cardinal-points Alternate: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/225008 RRCHF: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rexhep-rexhepi-chronograph-flyback-rrchf Alternate: https://hairspring.com/products/414-028-1815-chronograph-white-gold Blunders: 6105G: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-6105g Alternate: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2577r-calatrava-enamel-dial-pink-gold https://hairspring.com/products/anywhere-aurora-titanium IWC Vertical Drive: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-heads-for-space-with-the-pilots-venturer-vertical-drive-with-spaceflight-qualification-from-vast https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/about-us/unvrs/freak-2001 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/jaeger-lecoultre-amvox-q192t440-10-10-jlc-yzr0es Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/105-012-66-omega-speedmaster Cartier: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-celebrates-10-editions-of-prive-with-six-new-editions Alternate: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2396-cartier-cpcp-monopoussoir JLC Master Control Chronometre: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-chronometre-a-new-integrated-bracelet-sport-watch-in-three-model Alternate: https://www.berneron.ch/quantieme-annuel-black https://hairspring.com/products/25654st-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-salmon-dial-steel Only Wrist: Grahame Fowler: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-grahame-fowler MN: https://hairspring.com/products/9401-0-marine-nationale-submariner-steel Langematik: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-langematik/

    1h 4m
  6. Apr 22

    Episode 92: Pub Trivia

    Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor.  Links Mentioned:  Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html Scott Carpenter History: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space Artemis II Watches: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting Walter Lange: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/ Round Pusher Vichet 2499: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html Theft of the Marie Antoinette: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller Rolex QP: https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/ https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale)  *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up! 1921 Vacheron True Heritage: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919 New 1921: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose Reconstructed in Traditional Method:  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to HR Ekegren: https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch 1735: https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/ Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie: https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget 4113: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113 Offshore: https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it Carl Jung: https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/ IWC 3519: https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/ The Most Confusing Broad Arrow: https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/ Roubert-Houdin: https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks 6062 Cosmograph Ad: https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2 5738/1R: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001 Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019

    1h 10m
  7. Apr 10

    Episode 91: Enamel 101

    A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here.  Links Mentioned:  Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs: https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/ Jean Toutin: https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/ Miklos Merczel JLC: https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/ Daniel Quare: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare Grand Feu: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1 https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241 Cloisonné: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33 https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc Champlevé: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/ https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001 Flinqué: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum Engraved Enamel: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china Favorites: 2526: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold 6101: https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/ 2523 Gobbi: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html 2699 Constellation: https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch 3428P: https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/ 1415: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415 5231: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001 Only Wrist: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/ https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895

    1h 6m
  8. Mar 17

    Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

    This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy.  Links Mentioned:  Voutilainen’s Early Story: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve: https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html Comblémine SA: https://comblemine.ch Observatoire: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 Urban Jürgensen Relaunch: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 Pratt Oval Pocket Watch: https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently: https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853 Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case The 3 Watch Roll: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1

    44 min
5
out of 5
6 Ratings

About

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

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