This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code… AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands. Phew! Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out! BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents: Cape Wrath ‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild, treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels. Character: Powerful; wild; windswept
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root
Opens with a blast of bracing ocean air. Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium
Resinous smoke and geranium add both warmth and austerity. Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss Absolute
Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers. Perfumer: Euan McCall Absent Presence ‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’ The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence of one that is always felt but never seen. ‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate, So dull am, that I cannot look into The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate, Then some good body tell me how I do, Whose presence absence, absent presence is; Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’ Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance, Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De Parfum. Character: Dark; enveloping; waves. THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper
Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out of reach. Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet
Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity. Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood
Warm leather, woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning in waves. Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’ Rake & Ruin ‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth, this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London. This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin; dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and Wickedness.’
THE WEARING EXPERIENCE Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink Pepper, Orange, Lemon
Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and effervescent. Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus, Violet Orris
Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered florals. Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk
Dark woods, musk and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’ Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26) https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones ‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume and find The One(s!). It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their next scent shopping safari.’ AKRO Heat ‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance. Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it again. The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen. HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to. HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn. TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’ Jeroboam Oud Morning By Vanina Muracciole ‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth. Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual base, finishing the creation on an intimate note. Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’ Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive) ‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts. Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them, the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake. The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’ Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette ‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron, the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at Selfridges.’ Jo Malone London Veggies collection: Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’ Velvety Butternut: ‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create a woody gourmand scent. Top - Ginger Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively brightness. Heart - Butternut Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious warmth and creaminess. Base - Patchouli Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the longevity of the fragrance.’ Carrot Blossom: ‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch. Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral scent. Top - Fennel Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes. Heart - Carrot Blossom Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes of orris. Base - Patchouli Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the longevity of the fragrance.’ Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot ‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of...
