Uphill Athlete Podcast

Uphill Athlete

We educate and inspire you to be the best mountain athlete you can be with unmatched experience and proven training knowledge.

  1. Voice of the Mountains: Success is Not the Summit with Peter Metcalf (Director's Cut)

    7 APR ·  VIDEO

    Voice of the Mountains: Success is Not the Summit with Peter Metcalf (Director's Cut)

    This is the full, unedited version of Steve House's conversation with Peter Metcalf — extended and running longer than the standard episode release. Before Black Diamond Equipment became the most trusted name in mountain sports, there was Peter Metcalf: a teenager from Long Island hitchhiking to the Gunks every weekend, a dogeared copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills on his nightstand, and a conviction that the mountains were where he belonged. In this conversation, Steve and Peter trace the full arc of that conviction — from his early apprenticeship years through a harrowing 13-day first ascent on Mount Hunter, where hallucinations, extreme cold, and frostbite tested everything he had. That experience forged a lesson Peter would call on again in 1989, when he organized a team of fellow climbers to buy bankrupt Chouinard Equipment out of collapse — using retirement savings, high-interest loans, and a shared sense of purpose — and rebuild it into Black Diamond. What emerges is a portrait of someone who applied the logic of alpinism to every domain of his life: patient apprenticeship, commitment without a visible outcome, and the willingness to keep moving when the only way to live is forward. This is a story about climbing — and about becoming. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com

    3h 9m
  2. Gas Exchange and Altitude Acclimatization with Dr Patrycja Jonetzko

    24 FEB ·  VIDEO

    Gas Exchange and Altitude Acclimatization with Dr Patrycja Jonetzko

    In this science-focused episode, host Steve House sits down with Dr. Patrycja Jonetzko, a cardiothoracic anesthetist and high-altitude medicine expert, to explore the fundamental mechanics of gas exchange and oxygen delivery in mountain athletes. Dr. Jonetzko breaks down the journey of oxygen from atmosphere to working muscle, explaining the oxygen cascade, the critical role of partial pressure versus oxygen concentration, and why altitude performance is diffusion-limited rather than VO2 max-limited. The conversation illuminates why the body's adaptation to hypoxia is far more complex than simply producing more red blood cells. The discussion moves beyond basic physiology into practical application, covering breathing techniques like pressure breathing, the importance of hydration for gas diffusion, and why slower, deeper breaths are more efficient at altitude than rapid shallow breathing. Dr. Jonetzko advocates for reframing "acute mountain sickness" as "altitude adaptation syndrome"—recognizing that most symptoms represent normal physiological adaptation rather than pathology. She emphasizes that while genetic factors play a significant role in altitude performance, pre-acclimatization strategies including hypoxic tents and intermittent hypoxic training can meaningfully prepare athletes for high-altitude objectives. Drawing from both her clinical intensive care work and decades of Himalayan expedition medicine, Dr. Jonetzko reveals that success at extreme altitude ultimately comes down to energy management and self-awareness. The ability to maintain physiological efficiency while operating within narrow margins—controlling breathing rate, managing fear responses, and reading subtle body signals—often distinguishes those who summit from those who don't, regardless of baseline fitness levels. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com

    1hr 32min
  3. Voice of the Mountains: The Responsibility to Remain with Mark Twight (part two)

    10 FEB ·  VIDEO

    Voice of the Mountains: The Responsibility to Remain with Mark Twight (part two)

    In this concluding conversation, Mark Twight takes Steve into the harrowing heart of the 1988 Nanga Parbat expedition—four climbers clipped to a single ice screw, buried under avalanche debris for thirty minutes on the world's largest mountain wall. The vivid recounting reveals how total commitment to an ideal can blind climbers to approaching storms, yet paradoxically, that same commitment becomes the forge where transformation happens. The conversation traces Mark's evolution from elite alpinist to founder of Gym Jones, where training fighters, military operators, and eventually Hollywood's Spartans became his vehicle for service. What began as "grad school for himself" shifted into duty—a way to repay the society that had given him freedom to pursue his obsessions. Through years training actors for films like 300 and Wonder Woman, Mark applied the same all-or-nothing intensity that defined his climbing, discovering that accountability to a creative partner mirrors the trust demanded on a mountain face. When Steve asks about the through-line connecting all versions of Mark—the nihilistic Dr. Doom, the alpinist, the trainer, the writer—Mark distills it simply: chasing human potential, first for himself, then wanting it for others. The episode closes with Mark reading Bukowski's "No Leaders, Please"—a meditation on reinvention that has meant different things across different chapters of his life, now a celebration of constant growth rather than a confrontational manifesto. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com

    2h 14m
  4. Voice of the Mountains: The Hunger for Redemption with Mark Twight (part one)

    3 FEB ·  VIDEO

    Voice of the Mountains: The Hunger for Redemption with Mark Twight (part one)

    In this first installment of a two-part conversation, Steve House sits down with legendary alpinist Mark Twight for one of Voice of the Mountains' most anticipated episodes. This deeply personal dialogue - the show's first in-person recording - reunites two climbers whose friendship spans more than three decades. The conversation opens with Twight's 2019 book Refuge and his struggle to redefine himself after stepping away from elite climbing. As the 25th anniversary of their landmark Slovak Direct climb approaches, they examine what that 60-hour nonstop ascent of Denali meant then and what it reveals now about ambition, limits, and the courage to walk away. Twight shares candidly about the costs of single-minded pursuit: failed relationships, financial instability, and the brutal honesty required to assess one's own decline. He traces his evolution from uncompromising soloist to gym owner and trainer, including his work preparing actors for films like 300and Man of Steel. Most powerfully, Twight reflects on the deaths of friends and mentors - Mugs Stump, Jeff Lowe, Scott Backes - and the weight of survivor's guilt. He and Steve explore what it means to remain open to relationships despite knowing the potential for loss. Part 1 ends on a cliffhanger: the setup for Twight's harrowing survival story on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where four climbers hung from a single ice screw while buried by avalanche. That story continues in Part 2. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com

    1hr 42min

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We educate and inspire you to be the best mountain athlete you can be with unmatched experience and proven training knowledge.

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