Beyond the Garden Basics

Farmer Fred
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Picking up where the Garden Basics podcast left off. gardenbasics.substack.com

  1. -5 J

    All About Basil

    In this episode, we discuss the essentials of basil cultivation, highlighting the basil basics for home gardens. We cover basil soil preparation, planting, timing, and a few of the various flavorful basil varieties such as Sweet, Thai, and cinnamon basil. We include basil care tips such as watering, fertilization, and pest management. Special guest Rose Loveall-Sale from Morningsun Herb Farm shares her knowledge about basil’s cultural significance and culinary uses, as well as sharing her vast knowledge of even more basil varieties. Her audio was taken from her how-to basil video on YouTube , because this week she was busy getting ready for Morningsun Herb Farm’s annual open house day, on Saturday, May 2, an event that features speakers, vendors, crafts, demonstrations, and informational booths (including the Solano County Master Gardeners) at the nursery outside Vacaville, in the San Francisco Bay Area. More links and pictures about basil in today’s podcast transcript! ALL ABOUT BASIL - THE PODCAST TRANSCRIPT Farmer Fred: [0:00] If there’s one herb that practically begs to be grown at home, it has to be basil. The good news? It’s not fussy at all. It just wants what most of us really want. Warm weather, plenty of sunshine, and a good drink of water every now and then. Basil is happiest in fertile, well-drained soil that has lots of organic matter. Most garden soils, though, work just fine. But before you plant anything, it’s always worthwhile doing a quick soil test so you know exactly what you’re working with. Farmer Fred: [0:30] If the soil needs a nutrient boost, work your fertilizer into the top six inches. If you’re going the compost route, spread no more than one inch of well-composted material per 100 square feet. A little goes a long way here. The golden rule with basil is wait until after the last frost before planting. Cold soil is the enemy. If you’re starting from seed, basil germinates best when soil temps are between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and you can expect the little sprouts to pop up in about 10 to 14 days. If you’re starting with transplants, we’ll give them about four to six weeks to size up and aim for a mid to late May planting. You want to sow seeds about one eighth of an inch deep. That’s barely covering the seed with perhaps some vermiculite. Cover it lightly and keep the soil consistently moist. Then, once your seedlings emerge, thin them to three to four inches apart. Then gradually work toward a final spacing of about 12 inches. Farmer Fred: [1:32] Hey, and don’t throw away what you thin out. Those little guys can be transplanted elsewhere or even tossed into your dinner salad. One tip worth remembering, basil grown in full sun develops more essential oils, and that means richer, more complex flavor. Shade-grown basil? It just isn’t the same, really. So the age-old question is, well, how much basil should I plant? Over a whole season, plan on 5 to 10 plants per person for fresh use, and maybe another 5 to 10 plants if you want to put some away for storage. That may seem like a lot, but believe me, you will go through it. The Master Gardeners of Sonoma County have suggestions for basil varieties worth trying. Farmer Fred: [2:15] Sweet basil is probably the most popular. It’s a large-leafed Mediterranean variety. It’s the primary culinary basil used in Italian cuisine, and it gets up to about two, two and a half feet tall. Purple or opal basil is similar to sweet basil, but it has dark bronze-purple leaves and pink flowers, and that’s a welcome color contrast in the garden and in dishes, although visually it’s really not very suitable for pesto. A somewhat more tender variety, purple basil grows to about the same height as sweet basil, about two and a half feet. Lemon or lime basil is a smaller plant, about 12 inches tall with white flowers, and a mild citrus aroma paired with many types of food. There’s also Greek or globe basil. That’s even smaller, about 6 to 12 inches tall, with tiny compact leaves, soft stems, and a very spicy character that’s useful in salads. Its compact size makes it a good container plant, too, and its hardiness allows it to thrive in poor conditions. Another one worth trying, cinnamon basil. That’s a spicy variety with a pronounced flavor, and it gets about 18 to 30 inches tall. Farmer Fred: [3:29] Thai basil. That can be recognized by its unusually serrated leaves and a spiciness that sort of resembles licorice. Used in Thai and Indian cooking, it grows about two to three feet tall. There are a few types of perennial basil, but all types for culinary use, those are annual basils. And for even more great basil varieties, watch the YouTube video mentioned on today’s podcast. It features Rose Loveall-Sale of Morningsun Herb Farm in Vacaville talking about a myriad of great-looking and great-tasting basil varieties. Farmer Fred: [4:04] How about watering basil? Well, you got to be careful here. Aim for about an inch and a half of water per week. Consistent watering keeps basil growing strong. If you let it wilt and you notice the plant starts to stress out, that’s going to slow growth and damage the roots. A drip irrigation system works beautifully for basil if you want to set it and mostly forget it. You may need to water, though, more frequently. But again, this warning, high temperatures combined with water stress will trigger the plant to flower and set seed. And when that happens, leaf production stops and the off flavors can develop. So you want to keep your basil plant happy and hydrated. Basil is a bit of a hungry plant, especially when you’re actively harvesting or growing it in a pot. Once it hits the harvestable stage, side dress with a liquid nitrogen fertilizer. About one to two tablespoons per gallon of water every two to three weeks per 10-foot row. One of my favorites is fish emulsion. Container plants appreciate a weekly feeding to help keep them thriving. Farmer Fred: [5:13] Your biggest headache with basil early on are probably going to be weeds. Basil really can’t compete with them when they’re young. So cultivate shallowly around those basil plants because you don’t want to prune out their roots. And consider laying down an organic mulch, like straw, leaf mulch, or even newspaper, to keep weeds at bay until the young plants get established. Farmer Fred: [5:36] For pests, grasshoppers and slugs and snails can chew up the leaves, but a row cover over young plants does a great job of keeping them off until they’re big enough to handle the damage from those pests. On the disease front, watch out for root rot and basal shoot blight. Both are fungal diseases, and the problem there is too much water. Good spacing, too, can help keep your plants about 12 inches apart and avoid overwatering them, and that can go a long way towards preventing any problems. Of course, the fun part of basil growing is harvesting. Once your plant has six to eight leaves, you’re ready to start harvesting. Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut leaf stems, leaving just two to four leaves on the plant. Alternate which plants you harvest from so you always have a steady supply coming in. Does Pinching Off Basil Flowers Make More Leaves Grow? The question arises, though, does pinching off the flowers make more leaves grow? Well, interestingly, according to Utah State’s horticultural extension services, not really. Pinching off flowers doesn’t actually stimulate new foliage. It can even cause flowers to form in the leaf axils, and that will reduce your overall yield. A better strategy is to stagger your planting every other week of the basil plants and keep the plants from getting stressed with proper water and proper light so that they’re less inclined to flower in the first place. Farmer Fred: [7:01] But I got to admit, basil flowers are pretty. And although deadheading any flowers may not help the basil plant redirect its energy to producing leaves, consider planting more basil plants than you plan to eat and let those extra basil plants begin to flower. Oh, the beneficial insects in your garden, especially the bees, will appreciate it. And your eyes and nose will appreciate it, too (and the flowers are edible!). How about for storing your basil? How do you go about it? For fresh basil for use in the kitchen, recut the stems and place them in a jar of water away from direct sunlight on the kitchen counter. Cover with a plastic bag and then for even longer life, refrigerate them for up to 7 to 10 days. Farmer Fred: [7:44] For dried basil, bundle the stems, hang them in a shady, well-ventilated spot, and they’ll be ready in 5 to 10 days. Pack the dried leaves in an airtight jar and they’ll stay good for about a year. You can also freeze basil leaves. They can be frozen, though they do get mushy when they thaw. For best results, freeze whole leaves in ice cube trays with water, or even better, make some pesto and freeze that into cubes. Use frozen basil within three to six months. And finally, let’s talk about the nutrition of basil. Beyond the flavor, basil is genuinely good for you. It’s rich in vitamin E, folate, and antioxidants, while being low in calories, sodium, and carbohydrates. Dried basil is even more concentrated with nutrients. So what’s not to like about this herb? It tastes great, it smells great, and it’s good for you. So plant some basil in May. For more information about even more basil varieties, including how to plant them and cook with them, here’s my friend Rose Loveall-Sale of MorningSun Herb Farm in Vacaville, California. BASIL TIPS FROM MORNINGSUN HERB FARM Rose Loveall-Sale: [9:02] There’s only one word that we think of in the herb business in April, basil. This is our favorite herb we grow it all the time. The botanical name, Ocimum basilica. Everyone knows the common basils, But what I’m hoping to do today is to talk to you about some of the other basil

    32 min

  2. 24 AVR.

    Growing Sweet Potatoes

    Sweet potatoes are one of the most under-appreciated crops you can grow. But it will reward those gardeners who give sweet potatoes what they really need: heat. As you will hear in the podcast with Master Gardener and vegetable expert Gail Pothour, sweet potatoes have some very particular needs. A San Joaquin County (CA) listener wrote in asking how to alleviate the frustration of trying to sprout sweet potato slips from organic potatoes in a cold house in January. That’s the core problem right there — sweet potatoes are tropical plants, closer kin to morning glory than to the white potato, and they simply won’t cooperate without warmth. They’ll sit, sulk, and rot before they ever sprout. The good news is that our region of California is genuinely excellent sweet potato territory. Twenty percent of all commercially grown sweet potatoes in the U.S. come out of Merced County here in California, so conditions here are about as favorable as it gets. Timing is everything. Don’t rush them into the ground — mid-May is about right, once the soil has had a chance to warm up. Plant slips, not seeds — always buy certified disease-free slips from a reputable nursery or mail-order source. More about creating sweet potato slips, from the Santa Clara Master Gardeners * To grow your own slips: * Start in February or March. * Fill a shallow container that has drainage holes with moist potting soil. * Nestle in the sweet potato so it is half covered in the soil. Place in a waterproof tray. * Cover to retain humidity and keep it warm. * Remove covering when sprouts appear in 2–4 weeks. * When sprouts are 6 inches long, clip off 1 inch from potato (to prevent possible disease propagation from the mother potato) and plant directly in pots (or root in water then transplant into pots). The Santa Clara Master Gardeners have a video, as well, about creating your own sweet potato slips. Grow in raised beds or ridged rows, about 12 inches apart with three feet between rows. They need room to sprawl. Soil prep matters too. Work in some compost and a light dose of nitrogen before planting, and aim for something loose and sandy — sweet potatoes hate compacted ground. Water consistently for the first few weeks while the vines establish, then ease off. Once they’re growing vigorously, they don’t need much babying. For fertilizer, lean toward something a bit higher in phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen — a 3-4-4 or a 2-2-2 would be ideal. Harvest runs anywhere from 90 to 140 days after transplanting. Watch for the vines to start yellowing — that’s your signal. Don’t wait too long, though. Cold is the enemy at this stage too: roots can suffer damage if temperatures dip below 50 degrees, even briefly. If frost is coming, get them out of the ground and into boxes in a warm, slightly humid spot right away for curing. More about Sweet Potato Curing and Storage From “Growing Sweet Potatoes in the Sacramento Region”: Newly harvested sweet potatoes are not very sweet. They require 1 to 2 months of curing and/or storage before they will develop the sweet, moist taste we expect (part of the starch content turns to sugar). Freshly harvested sweet potatoes can, however, be candied or made into pies. This is a good use for roots that may have been damaged during harvest. Sweet potatoes need to be cured if they are to be stored for long periods. The curing process allows any bruises or blemishes on the thin skin to dry so that rotting in storage is reduced. If the sweet potatoes are not intended for long-term storage, curing is not essential; however, storing freshly-harvested sweet potatoes for several weeks will improve the flavor. After the roots are harvested and thoroughly dry, put them in a warm, humid place (80° to 90°F at 85% relative humidity, if possible), or carefully lay the roots out in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated area for 1 to 2 weeks to cure and until all skin wounds have healed. Commercial sweet potato growers have curing rooms with heaters, humidifiers, and evaporative coolers to maintain proper temperatures and humidity. Providing such curing conditions can be rather daunting for home gardeners, so listed below are some suggestions for curing sweet potatoes at home. Several of these suggestions are courtesy of the Santa Clara County Master Gardeners who conducted a sweet potato trial in 2006. Sweet potatoes need to be handled gently, so be careful when placing the roots into containers (avoid throwing or dropping them) so that they will not become bruised, which will keep them from storing well and can trigger them to start decaying. • Put sweet potato roots in a paper bag with a wet paper towel, close the bag, and cure them in a hot attic for 2 weeks. Then store them in a cool room at 60°F until ready to use. • Place sweet potatoes in a large plastic container with damp towels, keeping the damp towels from touching the sweet potatoes. Place the container in a sunny location for 10 to 14 days, rewetting the towels if they become dry. • Cure the roots in a warm, humid place (about 80°F) for 10 to 14 days. Then wrap each root in newspaper and store at 55° to 60°F, taking care not to injure the roots. • Place roots in a single layer in a container on the floor of a greenhouse where the temperature ranges from 80° to 90°F during the day and no lower than 50°F at night. Let them cure for 10 to 14 days. • Lay roots in a container placed near a furnace vent for warmth. If the temperature near the furnace vent is between 65° and 75°F, the curing period should last 2 to 3 weeks. To maintain high humidity, cover the container with paper or heavy cloth. The roots can also be packed in perforated plastic bags which will keep the humidity high, yet allow excess moisture to escape. • Place a heater in a pantry or small room and adjust the temperature to about 85°F; place a bucket of water in the pantry/room as well. Gently place the sweet potato roots in well-ventilated boxes and place the boxes on a small table or platform above the heater (several boxes can be stacked). A week of curing is sufficient with this method. Caution: be sure the heater is not near flammable items and that safety precautions are taken to avoid overheating of the heater, which can cause a fire. The heater should be placed on a non-flammable surface. STORING When the roots are cured, they can then be stored in a dry, dark, well-ventilated place at 55° to 60°F for several months. Sweet potato roots are very sensitive to chilling injury at temperatures below 50°F, so do not store them at lower temperatures or quality will deteriorate. Symptoms of chilling injury include fungal decay, internal pulp browning, and root shriveling. Storing them in an unheated garage or storage shed may be too cold during the winter months. Try wrapping cured sweet potatoes in newspaper and storing them indoors in a box beneath a bed, in a closet, or in an unheated room where room temperatures are slightly cool. Storing the roots in temperatures warmer than 65°F can cause the roots to sprout. Check stored roots periodically and remove any that begin to decay or show other signs of deterioration. SWEET POTATO VARIETIES Visual comparison of diverse sweet potatoes included in a trial conducted by UC Davis Plant Sciences entitled, Opportunities to Breed Diverse Sweetpotato Varieties for California Organic Production. These materials varied in root yield, size category distribution, color, and other characteristics. Many existing heirloom varieties and landraces, including purple-fleshed varieties, produce low yields and a low proportion of roots in the No. 1 size category, despite being favored for culinary traits, such as flavor and/or visual appearance. Contents of each crate are the harvested roots of a single plot (1.83 m × 0.762 m). Varieties shown are (a) Okinawa Purple; (b) Nancy Hall; (c) Murasaki; (d) L-15-39; (e) Shore Gold; (f) All Purple; (g) Nam Hai; (h) Porto Rico USDA; (i) Viola; (j) Kekori; (k) Seon-Mi; (l) Dingess Purple; (m) Camote Morado; (n) L19-53-P; (o) Beauregard [10]; (p) L-19-18; (q) Molokai; (r) Morado; (s) Carolina Ruby; (t) Diane; (u) Vermillion [13]; (v) Waimanalo; (w) L-19-42; (x) L19-56-P; (y) Red Japanese; (z) L-17-182; (aa) CA O’Henry; (bb) L-19-15; (cc) L-17-189; and (dd) Covington [12]. From the Study: Opportunities to Breed Diverse Sweet potato Varieties for California Organic Production. SWEET POTATO VARIETIES TRIALED AT THE FAIR OAKS HORTICULTURE CENTER, 2013 Results: A total of slightly over 51 pounds of sweet potatoes were harvested from the five plants. ‘Japanese’ was the winner with 15¼ pounds, followed by 10½ pounds each from ‘Bonita’ and ‘Covington’. ‘O’Henry’ had a yield of 9 pounds, and ‘Diane’ had a yield of 6 pounds. There were a variety of sizes and shapes of sweet potatoes that were harvested, with a 5-pounder from ‘Bonita’ and a 6-pound ‘Japanese’ sweet potato. SWEET POTATOES PODCAST - TRANSCRIPT Farmer Fred: As we are fond of saying on this program, the healthiest food you can eat is the food you grow yourself. And one of the healthiest foods that you can grow in your backyard are sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes offer great immune system support.One sweet potato can provide over 100% of your daily vitamin A requirement, and that’s essential for immune function, skin health, and eye health. It’s a high fiber food too. Sweet potatoes, a single cup, contain about 6.6 grams of fiber that promotes gut health and provides a feeling of fullness and that helps you manage your weight. It’s an antioxidant powerhouse as well. Sweet potatoes have anti-inflammatory and cancer-preventative properties. It’s a heart healthy crop, too. Sweet potatoes are a solid source of potassium, critical for regulating blood pressure and maintaining optimum heart function. There are some tricks to growing sweet potatoes, though. And that’s what today’s B

    16 min

  3. 17 AVR.

    Mycorrhizal Activity and Your Plants' Health

    Soil mycorrhizae. What is it? If you’ve seen any of the “Avatar” movies, you would know that James Cameron probably has a good grasp of the subject…and you would have a basic understanding of what we are going to talk about today. Without mycorrhizal activity, there would be very little gardening. To return to the “Avatar” comparison, you know how in those movies, if anyone fell ill or was near death or they needed to call in the National Guard, they could stick a tree root in their ear and they’d get healthy or victorious, and then the movie could have a happy ending? To quote the “Avatar” Wiki: In Avatar, tree roots are critical, bioluminescent conduits for Eywa, Pandora's neural network, allowing Na'vi to connect to their deity and ancestors. Key structures include the Tree of Souls and Tree of Voices, featuring complex, willow-like root systems that facilitate tsaheylu (the bond) for communication and data transfer. Can you see mycorrhizae activity? Yes! If you have a microscope: (p.s. “Arbuscular”: Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) are soil fungi (subphylum Glomeromycotina) that form symbiotic relationships with roughly 80% of terrestrial plant species. They colonize plant roots, forming tree-like structures called "arbuscules" inside root cells that act as exchange sites. AMF improve plant uptake of phosphorus, nitrogen, and water, in exchange for plant carbon, increasing plant biomass and stress tolerance.) Aren’t you glad you asked? What about if you turn over the mulch that’s beneath your persimmon tree. Is that white stuff on the bottom of the mulch that’s in contact with the soil…is that mycorrhizae? Short answer: No. Long answer: That white stuff on the bottom of mulch is a decomposing fungi, saprophytic fungi. Saprophytes act as decomposers breaking down dead organic matter, while mycorrhizal fungi form symbiotic partnerships with living plant roots. Falling asleep yet? Here’s Ben Faber, a soil, water, and subtropical crops advisor for the Ventura/Santa Barbara UC Cooperative Extension, with his more astute look at mycorrhizae. This is from his newsletter, “Topics in Subtropics”: Mycorrhizae means fungus (myco) root (rhizae). These root-associated fungi predate the evolution of terrestrial plants, and the partnership with mycorrhizal fungi facilitated the establishment of plants on earth. Mycorrhizae form symbiotic associations with more than 70% of land plants across a broad range of terrestrial ecosystems. Plants supplies mycorrhizae with photo-assimilated carbon in exchange for nutrients and water. This is the definition of a perfect relationship whereby the two sides support each other and have a personal interest at maintaining their counterpart well-being for survival. Once mycorrhizae colonize the host plant, its mycelium can grow over large distances to neighboring plants connecting them together by a common network. This extension of the root network allows plants to acquire water and nutrients (especially nitrogen and phosphorus) far beyond its root zone, rendering plants more resilient to drought and nutrient deficiency. The ability of mycorrhizae to form this underground web also enables the connected plant to communicate with each other through chemical signals and exchange water and nutrients. For example, in forest ecosystems, saplings rely on nutrients and carbon supply from older trees sent through the mycorrhizal network. This underground mycorrhizal web has also great physical properties because they improve the soil structure by forming stable soil aggregates thereby limiting erosion and leaching of nutrients. Today’s podcast features two interviews. The first is with Sacramento County Master Gardener Pat Rosales. We discuss the chances of you buying living mycorrhizae that might be an alleged part of that bag of potting soil you’re coveting. Or even more doubtful, an ingredient in the fertilizer you’re reaching for. Science says: doubtful. Science also says: “You’ve got to be kidding me!” We do discuss ways to create your own soil mycorrhizae, as well as how to keep what mycorrhizae you already have in top shape. The second part of today’s podcast features Alaskan garden writer Jeff Lowenfels, author of the “Teaming with…” series of books about what’s in the soil below your feet, including microbes, fungi, bacteria, and nutrients. Lowenfels, besides talking about fungi, is a fun guy. He talks about his previous career (he’s a self-described “recovering lawyer”), and his short stint as a Congressional candidate, campaigning on the platform of, “don’t rake your leaves!” Joining us in the conversation is America’s Favorite Retired College Horticultural Professor, Debbie Flower, who thoroughly enjoyed geeking out with Jeff. Warning: this podcast runs nearly 90 minutes. You may want to change drivers frequently if you’re listening to it on a car trip, so no one will doze off at the wheel. On the other hand, THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT STUFF AND IT’S WHY PLANTS GROW. Be advised: this material may appear on the Final. If you’re still reading this, you must be a curious gardener! Free or paid, either is welcome. However, I am praying for the eternal salvation of the souls of the paid subscribers. No pressure. Soil Mycorrhizae TRANSCRIPT Farmer Fred: Today on the Beyond the Garden Basics podcast, we’re talking mycorrhizae. No, don’t go away. Don’t go away. Please. Just listen for a minute or two, would you? Mycorrhizae is the reason you have successful plants. If we didn’t have mycorrhizae, you wouldn’t have a garden. So how can you make more mycorrhizae? Well, you can. You don’t have to buy it. We’ll tell you how. Pat Rosales is with us, Master Gardener in Sacramento County, who wrote an excellent article for the Sacramento Master Gardener newsletter in April, all about packaged mycorrhizae. Now, I think we have to establish something right off the bat. A lot of people think mycorrhizae are critters. But no, Mike and Cora don’t live in your soil. It is a relationship that’s called a mycorrhizal relationship. And it’s because it’s a mycorrhizal relationship is the reason a lot of these fungi, these various funguses, if you will, are called mycorrhizae because they’re involved in a mycorrhizal relationship. It’s basically a two-way street between the roots of your plants and the fungi in your soil taking care of each other, which makes your garden thrive. Farmer Fred: But there are things you could do to it that could destroy it. There are things you may not be even aware of, and you may not even realize you don’t have any mycorrhizae. There are certain conditions where you need to have some mycorrhizal relationships going on where none existed before. And we’ll tell you how. Farmer Fred: It’s mycorrhizae today on the Beyond the Garden Basics podcast. By the way, if you think this is daunting, stick around for part two of today’s podcast, where we talk to Jeff Lowenfels, the author of several books about soil microbes: Teaming with Microbes, Teaming with Fungi, Teaming with Bacteria, Teaming with Nutrients. Well, you get the idea, and Jeff will really give you the lowdown and delve deep into the science of mycorrhizal relationships and why they’re so important in your garden. Pat Rosales, French horn musician and Master Gardener, pleasure to have you with us again to talk mycorrhizae. And a lot of people think that, “okay, I’ve heard about the benefits of mycorrhizal relationships and mycorrhizae now for, oh, most of the 21st century. I guess I’ll go buy me some”. Well, before you do that, let’s talk about exactly what they are and what they do, Pat. What are they? What do they do? Pat Rosales: Well, mycorrhizae are collectively the mycelium of the fungus that lives in our soil. And they develop this, as you said, a very symbiotic relationship with your plants. And so the plants produce a carbohydrate because they photosynthesize from the sun. And they produce this carbohydrate, which they exude at the root tip. The mycorrhizae come along and they live near the root tip. And they use the carbon from the plant as nutrients. In exchange, the mycorrhizae provide nutrients, make nutrients available to the plant that they otherwise wouldn’t be able to use. Farmer Fred: It sounds like a fair exchange to me. One of the big ingredients that the mycorrhizal relationship can provide to the plant is phosphorus. And this is where a lot of gardeners might go askew because if you add your own phosphorus fertilizer, you inhibit the mycorrhizae, the beneficial fungi that are in there. It doesn’t necessarily kill the fungi, but it sidelines it because the plant says, “hey, I’ve got all this fertilizer falling down as a little blue powder. I’ll use that instead. You go play with yourself or something. Just leave us alone.” And the poor mycorrhizae basically just have nothing to do, so they do not thrive. Pat Rosales: And then the plant can’t really use the phosphorus in that form. Farmer Fred: That’s right. Somebody has to change it to something that they can use. Pat Rosales: That’s exactly what the mycorrhizae do. They make the phosphorus available to the plant. Farmer Fred: And that’s soluble phosphorus that we’re talking about. When you apply phosphorus via a fertilizer, that’s usually soluble phosphorus. And that, again, sidelines the mycorrhizae. Mycorrhizae, though, are very good at using insoluble phosphorus and converting that to something that the plant can use. So this is one of the reasons why mycorrhizae are so popular in agriculture. It’s cutting fertilizer costs for agriculture for those who are farming organically or farming sustainably or just want to cut their fertilizer costs by having a thriving soil with mycorrhizal relationships going on. There’s all the phosphorus you need so those ships can just keep circling in the Strait

    1 h 23 min

  4. 14 AVR.

    How Safe is Rain Barrel Water? When to Plant Warm Season Vegetables and Flowers.

    We talk about water safety and rain barrels with Sacramento County Master Gardener and vegetable expert Gail Pothour who swears up and down on her stack of Ruth Stout gardening books that she would NEVER drink water from a rain barrel…nor would she water her edible plants with it. What’s a gardener to do? This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

    15 min

  5. 10 AVR.

    The 2026 Tomato Preview Show!

    If we sound excited, we are! It’s getting close to tomato planting time! In this week’s podcast and newsletter, Don Shor of Redwood Barn Nursery in Davis, CA and I discuss this year’s unusual weather, emphasizing the importance of proper soil temperature and patience when planting. Don shares insights on different tomato varieties, explaining determinate, indeterminate, and heirloom types, alongside effective watering and mulching techniques for possible drought conditions. We offer tips for new gardeners, encouraging variety and restraint in their tomato-growing journey. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

    59 min

  6. 3 AVR.

    Growing Citrus Trees in a Non-Citrus Environment

    This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit gardenbasics.substack.com Farmer Fred interviews horticulturist and commercial citrus grower Lance Walheim about the history and cultivation of citrus fruits, covering varieties, growing tips, pest challenges, and the joys of homegrown citrus.

    25 min

  7. -1 J

    Tips For Growing Blackberries

    If you’re looking for a superfood to grow, it’s hard to beat blackberries. They can be grown in just about every state in the United States. They’re highly adaptable, and they thrive in USDA zones from 4 all the way up through 10. Here in California, in USDA zone 9, they do quite well. They grow nearly anywhere that has enough sun. Today, we talk with Master Gardener and berry expert Jeff Smoker, who has tips for growing blackberries. Blackberries are considered a superfood. According to North Carolina State University, a superfood is so-called because it has a high ratio of nutrients to calories, and that is a perfect description of a blackberry. According to North Carolina State University, blackberries are low in fat and sodium. They make a very heart-healthy snack. They’re loaded with fiber, 7.6 grams per 100 per cup. Only 62 calories per cup. Carbohydrates, 13 or 14 grams. Less than 7 grams of sugar. Less than 1 gram of fat. And they even has 2 grams of protein. Plus, they are loaded with vitamin C, manganese, vitamin K, vitamin E, potassium. They’re high in antioxidants, which reduce free radicals, combat oxidative stress, and may protect against cancer, heart disease, and cognitive decline. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

    50 min

  8. 13 MARS

    The Preserver's Garden

    This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit gardenbasics.substack.com In this podcast episode, I speak with Staci and Jeremy Hill, authors of "The Preserver's Garden," at their 11-acre farm Gooseberry Bridge in the Ozark Mountains. We explore their transition from urban life to sustainable farming, emphasizing self-sufficiency and healthy eating through preserving homegrown food.

    30 min
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Picking up where the Garden Basics podcast left off. gardenbasics.substack.com

Informations

  • Création
    Farmer Fred
  • Années d’activité
    2023 - 2026
  • Épisodes
    174
  • Classification
    Tous publics
  • Copyright
    © Fred Hoffman
  • Site web de l’émission
    Beyond the Garden Basics

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