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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

  1. EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

    6 OCT

    EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

    Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering the benefits of seasonality for maximizing climbing performance, rehabbing and preventing common knee injuries while heel hooking, and off-the-wall strength training for climbers. See the show notes for the full articles here. The Nugget Training App training.thenuggetclimbing.com Get a FREE Finger Strength Testing Session and Customized Report The GRINDS Program thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds FREE Finger Training PDF Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:   thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/four-pts Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:16) – Overview (00:07:52) – Sarah’s topic (the case for taking a break) (00:10:24) – What Sarah’s research process looked like (00:11:22) – Surprises in Sarah’s research process (00:12:35) – Recommendations on when to take time off (00:15:48) – How to sustain stoke (00:18:04) – How climbing ability solidifies over time (00:20:56) – If Sarah did a follow-up study (00:28:38) – Dawson’s topic  (heel hooking and knee injuries) (00:33:22) – Common heel hook injuries (00:35:20) – Go to hip mobility exercises (00:39:00) – Heel hooking warm-ups (00:41:01) – Surprises in Dawson's research (00:43:27) – If Dawson did a follow-up study (00:49:28) – Michael's topic (off the wall strength training) (00:52:10) – How often should climbers weight train (00:55:34) – At what point are you strong enough (01:02:59) – Comparing athletes (01:09:47) – Stability-focused exercises (01:19:18) – Value in taking time off (01:21:19) – Jared's final thoughts

    1h 25m
  2. EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber

    15 SEPT

    EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber

    Adrian Ballinger is a renowned alpinist and mountain guide, and has summited Mt. Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen. We talked about his childhood, misconceptions about what he does, what climbing Everest is actually like, skiing above 8,000 meters, risking his life to send K2, sending Fall of Man 5.13b, how mountaineering compares to projecting 5.13, meeting his wife Emily Harrington, how performance changes with age, lessons everyone should know, and much more. You can learn more about Adrian at adrianballinger.com Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer) Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep system NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear) Use code STEVEN for 15% off Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:   thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-ballinger Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:06) – Growing up (00:06:08) – Connecting with adventure as a kid (00:16:08) – Misconceptions about what Adrian does (00:22:04) – Tech breakthroughs in mountaineering (00:26:04) – Client pressure around summits (00:30:04) – Alpenglow Expeditions (00:33:09) – Regulations on Everest (00:35:08) – What climbing Everest is really like (00:41:04) – Climbing Everest without oxygen (00:49:57) – Preparing for Everest without oxygen (00:58:56) – Skiing accolades (01:01:59) – Skiing above 8,000 meters (01:05:00) – Skiing down vs. rappelling massive peaks (01:08:58) – Fall of Man (01:11:01) – Physically hardest climb (01:12:56) – Mental hardest climb (01:14:57) – Most dangerous climb (01:18:01) – Why Adrian took a risk on K2 (01:21:01) – Meeting Emily (01:32:45) – What’s left for Adrian in alpinism (01:34:43) – Switching to hard sport climbing (01:46:43) – Bouldering in Rocklands (01:54:42) – Performance changes with age (01:59:42) – Athletes Adrian looks up to (02:02:40) – Lessons everyone should know (02:05:40) – Adrian’s podcast

    2h 11m
  3. EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

    1 SEPT

    EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

    Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one. The GRINDS Program (FREE Training PDF) thenuggetclimbing.com Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer) Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep system NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear) Use code STEVEN for 15% off Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:   thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusa Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:05) – Flexibility journey (00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors (00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued (00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme (00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids (00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio (00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13 (00:48:07) – Home wall training (01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training (01:11:28) – Building persistent strength (01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition (01:32:23) – Know yourself (01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability (01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset (02:01:35) – Slingblade V13 (02:10:03) – An obsessive brain (02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth (02:20:43) – Don’t get injured (02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains (02:32:46) – Ease into it (02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration (02:45:09) – Beginner's mind (02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing (02:54:26) – Power spots (03:00:30) – Weather forecasting (03:18:03) – Dew point (03:22:43) – Cold rock (03:26:36) – Morning climbing (03:38:36) – Upcoming goals (03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship (03:46:18) – Public vs. private land

    3h 53m
  4. EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

    18 AUG

    EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

    Eryn Phelps is a licensed trauma counselor who specializes in helping outdoor athletes with anxiety, OCD, and PTSD. We talked about how EMDR helped cancer survivor and podcast guest Sol Wertkin, how to navigate time scarcity and get clear on what you want, overwhelm and panic attacks, grief and shame, labels and identity, and much more. Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel) rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads) madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer) Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep system NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear) Use code STEVEN for 15% off Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:   thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eryn-phelps Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:26) – Partners (00:05:56) – Sol Wertkin (00:12:54) – EMDR (00:27:19) – Sol continued (00:34:00) – Pity, empathy, & compassion (00:39:15) – Perception & victim mindset (00:54:41) – Preventing negative beliefs from taking root (01:00:08) – Mistakes, guilt, & shame (01:05:21) – Trauma from injury (01:10:21) – Grief (01:15:23) – Accepting risk (01:25:23) – Relationships (01:31:27) – Time scarcity & OCD (01:44:17) – Labels & identity (01:48:58) – Anxiety (01:51:53) – Overwhelm (01:58:39) – Panic attacks (02:04:06) – Curing anxiety, PTSD, & OCD (02:09:28) – Getting clear on what you want (02:24:02) – How Eryn makes decisions (02:26:40) – A grass kinda day (02:29:00) – Where to find Eryn (02:32:11) – Complacency & communication (02:36:44) – Dopamine

    2h 39m

About

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

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