Hairspring

Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

  1. PŘED 4 DNY

    Episode 92: Pub Trivia

    Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor.  Links Mentioned:  Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/worlds-first-wristwatch-co-axial-escapement-london-science-museum-patek https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/george-daniels-so-l12313/lot.21.html Scott Carpenter History: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/scott-carpenters-breitling-cosmonaute-the-first-swiss-wristwatch-worn-in-space Artemis II Watches: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/watches-artemis-ii-moon-omega-speedmaster-breiting Walter Lange: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-homage-to-walter-lange/ Round Pusher Vichet 2499: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/12/patek-philippe-2499-vichet-case-round-pushers.html Theft of the Marie Antoinette: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-time-thief-who-stole-106-rare-clocks-in-a-daring-heist-180981979/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naaman_Diller Rolex QP: https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/ https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-prototype-oysterquartz-lot-329-378 (Most Recent Sale)  *Modified Datejust QP was allegedly Muller not Dubuis, we messed up! 1921 Vacheron True Heritage: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/an-original-vacheron-constantin-american-1921-from-1919 New 1921: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-historiques-american-1921-rose Reconstructed in Traditional Method:  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-piece-unique-vacheron-is-proof-that-sometimes-they-do-make-em-like-they-used-to HR Ekegren: https://obwcollection.com/products/h-r-ekegren-minute-repeater-wristwatch 1735: https://www.watchprosite.com/blancpain/more-on-the-iconic-blancpain-1735/4.1185931.9517651/ Piaget Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie: https://www.phillips.com/article/158023235/when-fp-journe-worked-with-piaget 4113: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/133343?fromSearch=4113 Offshore: https://www.phillips.com/article/37249232/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-the-man-who-made-it-and-the-watch-that-honours-it Carl Jung: https://monochrome-watches.com/a-most-dangerous-watch-company-iwc-and-carl-jung/ IWC 3519: https://revolutionwatch.com/special-service-the-iwc-porsche-design-ref-3519-amag/ The Most Confusing Broad Arrow: https://www.casowatches.com/catalogo/seamaster-ref-14755-61/ Roubert-Houdin: https://www.horloger.net/purchase-sales/mystery-clocks/74-robert-houdin-triple-mystery-clock/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-enchanting-allure-of-cartiers-mystery-clocks 6062 Cosmograph Ad: https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2012/03/rolex-cosmograph-moonphase-1957.html#/page/2 5738/1R: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-1r-001 Only Wrist: https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaegerlecoultre/125546 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-1958 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-past-present-and-future-of-the-rolex-milgauss https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189354?fromSearch=1019

    1 h 10 min

  2. 10. 4.

    Episode 91: Enamel 101

    A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here.  Links Mentioned:  Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs: https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/ Jean Toutin: https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/ Miklos Merczel JLC: https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/ Daniel Quare: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare Grand Feu: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1 https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241 Cloisonné: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080121/33 https://watchesbysjx.com/2024/04/patek-philippe-world-time-cloisonne-605-hu-de-world-map-pink-gold.html https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/07/why-are-vintage-cloisonne-enamel-dial-watches-collectible.html https://www.watchonista.com/articles/events/prix-gaia-2019-suzanne-rohr-craftmanship-creation-category https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/portraits/1004113605-the-multiple-talents-of-enamellist-anita-porchet.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzPx_hj6tCc Champlevé: https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-krayon-anywhere-for-only-watch-2021/ https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/selections/watches-with-an-enamel-dial https://www.patek.com/en/collection/golden-ellipse/5738-51g-001 Flinqué: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/4997-200g-001 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/life-is-a-cabaret-lange-handwerkskunst-tourbillon-that-is https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/05/hands-on-with-the-voutilainen-28-te-in-enamel.html https://www.acollectedman.com/products/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-platinum Engraved Enamel: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/engraved-enamel-why-some-dials-never https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/qin-gan-independent-watchmaker-from-china Favorites: 2526: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold 6101: https://le-monde-edmond.com/enamel_rolex_dials/ 2523 Gobbi: https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/11/patek-philippe-2523-worldtime-most-expensive-watch-sold.html 2699 Constellation: https://thekeystone.com/products/omega-yellow-gold-constellation-geneva-observatory-cloisonne-watch 3428P: https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/ 1415: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/112503?fromSearch=1415 5231: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5231g-001 Only Wrist: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar/ https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/a-lange-sohne-lange-1-sincere-singapore-ref-112-049-limited-edition-64/145895

    1 h 6 min

  3. 17. 3.

    Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

    This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy.  Links Mentioned:  Voutilainen’s Early Story: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/watchmaking-journey-kari-voutilainen The 2013 V-8R with Power Reserve: https://watchesbysjx.com/2013/04/baselworld-2013-voutilainen-v-8r.html Comblémine SA: https://comblemine.ch Observatoire: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 Urban Jürgensen Relaunch: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025 Pratt Oval Pocket Watch: https://www.phillips.com/article/149733060/derek-pratts-oval-pocket-watch-voutilainen-urban-jurgensen-phillips-reloaded Watch Mr Voutilainen is Googling Recently: https://www.phillips.com/detail/andreas-strehler/190853 Last Watch which Impressed Mr Voutilainen in Person: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-decimal-strike-honeygold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-case The 3 Watch Roll: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/11/breguet-1890-four-minute-tourbillon-sothebys.html https://quillandpad.com/2016/07/21/let-eat-cake-intriguing-story-marie-antoinette-legendary-breguet-pocket-watch-no-160/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/09/the-fake-rivalry-that-created-the-worlds-most-expensive-timepiece.html Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16528-daytona-floating-cosmograph-gold-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/885104-01-universal-geneve-space-compax-1

    44 min

  4. 11. 3.

    Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016

    Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise.  Links Mentioned:  https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t 10K and Under:  https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993005 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/100180 https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/quick-study-omega-seamaster-chronographs https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.52.html https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/iwc-ref-r-816-ad-lot-302-11 https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/99735 https://www.phillips.com/detail/jaeger-lecoultre/98071 50K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5992999 https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/a-lange-sohne-lot-300-164 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.275.html https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003298 https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/101404 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028350 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.7.html 200K and Under: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6003385 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028355 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-n09593/lot.272.html https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/watches-l16053/lot.140.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/breguet/97620 https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/97159 Unlimited: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028459 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/100888 https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2016/important-watches-ge1604/lot.317.html https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97683 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/97817 Wildcard: https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976969?ldp_breadcrumb=back https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101552 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/145-005-ultraman-omega-seamaster-321

    1 h 29 min

  5. 20. 2.

    Episode 88: Audemars Piguet Beyond the Royal Oak

    Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD.  Links Mentioned:  5516: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-reference-5516-perpetual-calendar John Shaeffer Collecting Guide: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/buying-selling-collecting-john-shaeffer-repeaters 25881 Explainer: https://singaporewatchclub.com/blogs/articles/john-shaeffer-ap-s-best-kept-secret 25881 Purple Dial: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/repetition-minutes-john-schaeffer-reference-25881 Ceramic-Link Bamboo ref. 66192 & 66172: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--cd79969e-bfab-495f-8049-3a18d16e361a/ap-chronicles-image.webp https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-bamboo-ref-66172ba-gold-diamond-set-quartz-wristwatch-24/165533 5072: https://www.db1983.com/product-page/audemars-piguet-5072st-vzssc-37mm-1955 5503: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-the-archives-of-audemars-piguet https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-vacheron-minute-repeater-at-christies (Scroll Down Here) 831: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/183251?fromSearch=831 Collaboration Work with Cartier: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080515/233 (Erik was Wrong, Henry is in fact American not English!) https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier-and-audemars-piguet/221688?fromSearch=audemars%20piguet%20cartier&searchPage=1 1533: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/90520 https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/122598 25681PT ‘Clover’: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/quantieme-perpetuel-clover-asprey 5661 / ref. 25661 Tuscan: https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetuel-tuscan/ 25557: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel16_2v2 (Rightmost) https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/reference-25557ba-a-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar 5548: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique AP Calibre 2003: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/calibre/Calibre-2003 5093BC: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gubelin-signed-5093bc-audemars-piguet-disco-volante A l’Emeraude QP: https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080424/145 (Which Inspired this https://monochrome-watches.com/collectors-series-nopstar83-audemars-piguet-edward-piguet-ultra-thin-skeleton-perpetual-25734or/) 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar 6196P: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation 5270: https://hairspring.com/products/5270r-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-pink-gold

    57 min

  6. 11. 2.

    Episode 87: Our Ultimate 3 Watch Collections

    The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician.  Links Mentioned:  404.032: https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split 6105: https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-272 Early Datejust Reading: https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Clapton 5004R: https://www.phillips.com/detail/PATEK-PHILIPPE/HK080216/1011 2497G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/160474 345.0809: https://www.omegaspeedymoon.com 403.041 Yellowjacket: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/CH080320/240 Black 5004G: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/193506 2915: https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-omega-speedmaster-steel Pisa: https://www.phillips.com/article/121350662/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-pisa 414.028: https://www.phillips.com/detail/a-lange-sohne/181134 Bao Dai: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90349 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bảo_Đại WMT: https://www.phillips.com/detail/wmt-(watch-experimental-unit)/202955 YG Brass Resonance: https://hairspring.com/products/chronometre-a-resonance-brass-movement-platinum Yosuke & Dufour: https://www.instagram.com/p/DScn5Qaklh4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== RRCCII: https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two Laurent Ferrier Phillips: https://hairspring.com/products/hommage-ii-for-phillips-steel 5516: https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/asset/140_carousel03_05v2 Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5100-rolex-texano https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3770-patek-philippe-nautellipse

    1 h 11 min

  7. 29. 1.

    Episode 86: 3940 and Onwards, The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar Pt. 2

    It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s the second half Patek Philippe of the ‘pure’ QP bloodline this week.  Links Mentioned:  Zeitwerk Press Photo: https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/zeitwerk/zeitwerk-honeygold-lumen Technical Review of 240 Q: https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/technical-review-of-the-mythical-240-caliber-from-patek-philippe First Series 3940: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/191571 Evolution of Just First Series Dials Alone: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/the-three-dials-of-1st-series-patek-philippe-ref-3940 Early Second Series 3941: https://hairspring.com/products/3941j-perpetual-calendar-dore-dial-early-second-series-yellow-gold Late Second Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/143107 Third Series: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/3940p-perpetual-calendar-third-series-platinum Beyer First Series: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/183202 Interesting ‘Syrup’ 24-Hour indicator patina: https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/sales-corner/p/1992-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-3940-platinum-collector-set Roman 3940: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/3940g-025-roman-dial-change-to-3940g-013-classic--value-impact/11.1590521.15856176/ 3945 (Soldered Bracelet): https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/215848?fromSearch=3945 https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6102706 Saatchi History: https://www.phillips.com/article/144079689/patek-philippe-saatchi-edition-london-2015-grand-exhibition-about 5039: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5039g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5040: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5040p-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar 5049P: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/latest-addition--ref-5049p/11.1467591.13835786/ 5136: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/195786 5139: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/210732?fromSearch=5139 5050: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/224366?fromSearch=5050 5059: https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-officers-case-perpetual-calendar-ref-5059g/ 5140: https://mrwatchley.com/products/patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-5140g 5940: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5940g 5327: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-001 5320: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing 5236: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5236p-001-in-line-perpetual-calendar-a-first-for-patek-introducing Pocket Watch 725: https://thekeystone.com/products/patek-philippe-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-pocket-watch-725-2 5740: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5740g-patek-philippe-nautilus-perpetual-calendar Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/products/16018-datejust-birch-wood-dial-yellow-gold https://hairspring.com/products/1655-explorer-ii-steel

    1 h 18 min

  8. 17. 1.

    Episode 85: Hot Takes & Resolutions

    Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this episode concludes with resolutions in watches for the new year.  Links Mentioned: Roman Numerals Discussed: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/19019-rolex-oysterquartz-day-date-1 https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/880 https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire-1 5374: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendar RD2: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-rd2-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-ultra-thin-hands-on 5327G: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5327g-001 90s IWC: https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/heres-why-im-so-into-90s-iwc-right  History of the Calatrava: https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/ Regulator Dial: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/laurent-ferrier-micro-rotor-regulateur-ecole 70s Longines: https://www.fratellowatches.com/buying-guide-the-best-longines-watches-from-the-1970s/ 13ZN: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/longines-13zn-still-collectible 116500: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/ur-210s-full-metal-jacket-steel-titanium https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ https://www.hytwatches.com

    1 h 23 min
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Informace

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

Informace

  • Autor
    Hairspring
  • Aktivní
    2023 - 2026
  • Díly
    92
  • Hodnocení
    Explicitní
  • Copyright
    © Hairspring
  • Web pořadu
    Hairspring

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