Beyond the Garden Basics

Farmer Fred

Picking up where the Garden Basics podcast left off. gardenbasics.substack.com

  1. vor 3 Tagen

    Too Many Peppers? Try This Popular Sweet Pepper Relish Recipe

    In today’s podcast (above), we talk with renowned pepperhead Dave DeWitt, author of several hot pepper books. We talk hot pepper basics, and Dave adds advice on how to overwinter your hot pepper plants for a second year of growth (and heat!). We have a complete, human-corrected transcript of the podcast towards the bottom of today’s newsletter. Short of time? Here are the main points from today’s podcast: * Start from seed for variety, or order early from pepper catalogs. Super-hot varieties like Bhut Jolokia or Scorpion peppers may be difficult to find as transplants, so grow them from seed. * Don’t judge peppers by heat alone. Habaneros hit 80,000–200,000 Scoville units but have a fruity, apricot-like flavor, good for both heat and taste. Diluting them (e.g., one habanero in 4 cups of salsa) keeps flavor without overwhelming heat. * Skip water or beer for pepper burn. Capsaicin isn’t water-soluble, so the relief is temporary and heat returns. Use dairy instead: yogurt, sour cream, heavy cream, whole milk or ice cream (the casein protein strips capsaicin off your mouth). * Never let pepper roots sit in water-logged soil. Add perlite or pumice (not vermiculite) to potting soil/containers to keep roots well-drained and prevent root rot or Phytophthora fungal disease. * Give peppers 10–12 hours of full sun daily. They’re unaffected by day length until fall, and stop flowering once they hit their max fruit load. * Use moderate nitrogen fertilizer. Too much N (especially from urea) produces lots of foliage but few pods. Organic fertilizers (naturally low in salt, under 10% nitrogen) are a safer bet. * Get your soil tested annually (via a University extension service, e.g., Colorado State, UMass/Amherst, Texas A&M, or Utah St) to catch salt buildup, a common yield-killer from repeated watering/fertilizing in raised beds. If salts build up, flood-irrigate the bed heavily at season’s end to flush them out. * To overwinter a pepper plant, grow it in a container, bring it indoors (a south-facing window is enough) over winter, and move it back outside in spring. You’re just keeping it alive in the winter, not expecting fruit until summer returns. * Choose smaller-podded varieties (like pequins) for overwintering success. Pequins retain more vigor in year two, while larger-podded types (like New Mexico chilies) lose vigor and yield less after their first year. What To Do With All Those Peppers This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

  2. vor 6 Tagen

    The Best Roses For Cut Flowers

    Bullet Points from the Podcast, “The Best Roses for Cut Flowers” * Always cut long stems, not just the spent bloom. Snipping only 1-2 inches when deadheading causes the plant to push out short, crooked replacement growth; cutting deep into the cane produces another long stem. * Make cuts just above a five-leaflet leaf (not a three-leaflet one), and choose a node pointing outward from the bush’s center. This improves air circulation and keeps stems growing straight. * Recut stems underwater every couple of days, trimming about an inch off the bottom to remove air bubbles and keep water moving up the stem so buds continue to open. * Strip off any foliage that will sit below the waterline submerged leaves decay and foul the water. * Use flower food, or a sugar-water substitute like regular (non-diet) Sprite or 7Up, to keep water cleaner and nourish cut stems; tap water is otherwise fine. * For low-thorn, long-stemmed cutting roses, favor hybrid teas and grandifloras like Ring of Fire, Hot Princess, Olympiad, Veteran’s Honor, Gold Medal, and Strike It Rich. Many grandifloras have notably fewer prickles. * For reliably long-lasting vase life (opening slowly over about a week), pick Olympiad or Veteran’s Honor rather than Mr. Lincoln, which opens quickly once cut. * For fragrance, choose Mr. Lincoln, Double Delight, or Olivia (an Austin/English shrub rose). But note high-petal-count “cabbage” roses like Olivia and Tamora can shatter petals suddenly (”explode”) on the table. * For multi-bloom stems that fill a vase in one cut, use sprays/floribundas such as Sally Holmes, Julia Child, Betty Boop, and Daybreaker, or miniatures like Joy and Rainbow Sunblaze. * Build arrangements with the “thrill, fill, spill” formula: big roses as the focal thrill, small polyanthus/miniature blooms as fill, and trailing foliage (ferns, ivy, nandina) as the spill to soften the vase edge. * Add a sprig of citrus leaf or rose geranium to boost scent in bouquets from lower-fragrance roses. * To time blooms for a specific event (wedding, show), prune roses about 6-8 weeks in advance. That’s the typical bloom cycle after a hard cut. * Fertilize roughly monthly, especially after a deadheading push, and mulch to help with drought tolerance; if cutting back on water, cut back on fertilizer to avoid burning the plant. * Deadhead regularly and thoroughly; leaving spent blooms on the plant signals it to stop flowering and start forming rose hips instead. * Roses generally suit USDA zones 6-9, with best performance in low-humidity, low-rain, full-sun-but-not-scorching conditions (east-facing exposure helps colors last longer in hot climates). Beyond The Garden Basics is a reader-supported publication. To receive exclusive, new posts and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber. Thank You! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe

  3. 10. Juli

    How to Plant and Care for a Shade Tree

    Beyond The Garden Basics is a reader-supported publication. To receive exclusive posts and complete access to past editions , consider becoming a paid subscriber. Today’s podcast interview focuses on consulting arborists and how they help property owners evaluate tree health. Gordon Mann explains that a consulting arborist provides independent inspections, identifies problems such as leaning, branch breakage, bark shedding, root issues, and recommends options for treatment or mitigation rather than only suggesting removal or trimming. But we talked about a lot more regarding shade trees. Among the topics discussed: * Call a consulting arborist (not a tree-care salesperson) every few years for an independent inspection, especially if you notice leaning, breaking branches, or unusual bark shedding. Find one via treesaregood.com (ISA) or asca-consultants.org. * Don’t over-water lawns and starve trees: if you cut lawn irrigation, add dedicated deep watering for trees instead (e.g., a spiral soaker hose or concentric drip rings under mulch) so roots don’t rely on turf runoff. * Water deeply and infrequently (weekly to bi-weekly in dry season), covering the entire root zone from trunk to drip line, not just one emitter at the trunk. * Mulch with wood chips or leaf litter (”duff”), replenished every few years, as a top dressing only, never buried under the tree. It moderates soil temperature/moisture, builds soil biology, and softens rain impact. * Before planting, remove the tree from its container and check for circling roots; prune or score the root ball on four sides (and the bottom) to redirect root growth. * Use the “pedestal method”: dig the planting hole to the height of the root ball (or 1 inch less), keep that pedestal of native, unexcavated soil undisturbed, but loosen a much wider area around it (2–5x the root ball diameter). * Plant slightly high - top of the root ball about 1 inch above grade - to account for settling, and never plant in compost or heavily amended soil that will settle and bury the trunk. * If amending soil, mix in only 8–10% organic matter across the whole dug area rather than replacing native soil entirely. * Space trees for mature canopy size, not instant privacy. Plant further from fences and from each other to avoid crowding, root conflicts, and future removals. * Plant a diverse mix of species (no more than two of the same species in a row) to avoid catastrophic losses from pests/disease like Dutch elm disease or emerald ash borer; include some native trees for a stronger ecological palette. * Learn correct pruning cuts: avoid “heading cuts” (topping/chopping), which cause weak, densely packed regrowth; favor selective, purposeful cuts instead. * Prune only for a specific reason (health, structural safety, or clearance needs). Remove no more than 5–20% of foliage annually, and retire the outdated idea of “thinning” a tree just for looks. * For dead, dying, diseased, or crossing branches, evaluate each case individually rather than removing wholesale. A partial dead branch can sometimes be left for habitat. * Choose the right tree for the right purpose and location up front, accounting for underground utilities and infrastructure, since trees take 15–20+ years to deliver full shade/canopy benefits. * Give young trees a light shake 12–30 inches above the ground; if the root ball shifts, the tree isn’t rooting well and needs root pruning, transplanting, or replanting. Today’s conversation with Consulting Arborist Gordon Mann reminded me of two of the 11 Farmer Fred Garden Rules: 7. EVERYTHING YOU KNOW IS WRONG. In the 1940’s & 50’s, DDT was available to home gardeners as a pesticide. Turns out, it caused cancer and killed birds. In the 1960’s-70’s, the Modesto Ash was considered the “perfect shade tree” for the Central Valley of California. Turns out, it is susceptible to anthracnose, mistletoe and is no longer recommended. In the first decade of the 21st century, the pesticides Diazinon and Dursban were taken off store shelves. Also proven ineffective, despite claims to the contrary: Vitamin B-1 for transplant shock, store-bought ladybugs, and tomato calcium spray to cure blossom end rot. In horticulture, research is always ongoing. 8. IF IT WORKS FOR YOU, FINE; BUT KEEP AN OPEN MIND. If you’re using safe gardening techniques that others frown upon - and those techniques are working…well, who are we to tell you to stop? Still, new research, techniques or equipment may make your chores a heck of a lot easier and satisfying. Today’s solution could become tomorrow’s problem. Be open to change. Even if you listened to the podcast, read the transcript. Gordon Mann had so many profound ideas about trees and tree care, you’ll learn a lot more with another read (or listen). Plus, links mentioned in the podcast for more information about trees and tree organizations can be found in the transcript. PODCAST TRANSCRIPT: HOW TO PLANT AND CARE FOR A SHADE TREE Farmer Fred: Do you have trees on your property? Well, trees are usually the largest and longest live natural features on your property. Plus, they’re worth a lot of money when you go to sell your home. So it pays to take care of the trees on your property. But do you know how? Well, if you don’t know how, that might be the time to call in a consulting arborist, especially if you think that there’s going to be problems if you see the tree leaning or maybe branches are starting to break or there is some unusual shedding of bark or something like that, you want to call in a consulting arborist. Well, what is a consulting arborist? Well, let’s check in with Gordon Mann. He happens to be a consulting arborist and he has a company called Mann-Made Resources serving Northern California for residences, businesses, agencies. He’s been doing it for more than three decades and he wants your trees to succeed. But the only way those trees can succeed is if you do the right thing and treat them right. And as I’ve been saying on this program for how many years now, it’s all about the soil. And that’s so true when it comes with trees as well. Gordon, a pleasure talking with you. And I hope we can shed some light for people to help them take better care of their trees. Gordon Mann: Thank you, Fred. I appreciate the opportunity to share some information with you. And actually, I’ve been doing this for about 45 years. And seven years ago, Handmade Resources shifted our consulting to California Tree and Landscape Consulting, CalTLC. And that’s where the consulting comes from. I also, in July, started the Institute for Soil Genomics for Healthy Community Forests. And the idea is to help people learn how to get our soils back to their natural form. Farmer Fred: And I bet right now people are wondering, well, wait a minute, what is a consulting arborist? So why don’t you explain the difference between a regular arborist and a consulting arborist? Gordon Mann: A consulting arborist should be someone with enough experience to come out and make an inspection on the property or the trees and figure out what any of the issues are that are, impacting the tree health or the tree condition. Usually, the consulting arborist is not part of a tree care company because most tree care salespeople show up to your property to sell tree work. There are several of them that will give some consulting out, but their job is to sell tree care. Otherwise, the company goes out of business. Nobody can just keep giving free information and stay in business for their careers. So we do charge for our independent, unbiased inspections of the trees. And the most scientific ways to help the trees grow and stay healthy. Or if the trees have some issues, how to treat the issues. And instead of just saying the trees have to be trimmed or have to be removed, we give options and mitigation options for any issues on the property. Farmer Fred: And just like you would visit a doctor regularly or a dentist regularly, if you have trees on your property, and especially if they’re full-grown trees that could be worth thousands of dollars when the time comes to sell your property, you might want to call in a consulting arborist every few years to just do a general survey of your urban forest. Gordon Mann: I agree with you. And I’m not just trying to sell our work. But any asset that we have requires some kind of preventative maintenance or regular maintenance. We think about all the things in our homes and our cars, and we do things to take care of them. No one drives their car until the engine seizes because they never change the oil. And trees being a very valuable asset to our property and part of the community canopy are very important and do need to be inspected occasionally and help the property owners learn how to manage their trees, structure, and health in an appropriate manner. Farmer Fred: And to find a consulting arborist near you, there are a couple of good resources out there that can help you pinpoint somebody locally who can help you out. I know there’s the International Society of Arboriculture with their website, treesaregood.com, where you can find a list of arborists and consulting arborists. But also there’s one specifically for consulting arborists, the American Society of Consulting Arborists. Gordon Mann: Both of those have arborists that are either certified or with ASCA registered consulting arborists that can help you inspect the site and give you the information you need to take better care of your trees. And hopefully the person that comes out is talking to you about growing better trees and keeping your trees healthy. And helping him understand what we can do to avoid unplanned failures as much as possible. None of us are able to look completely below the ground, but we can look at differences in the site conditions, the tree trunks, and sometimes the roots. And what we normally do

  4. 3. Juli

    Home Weather Station Setup for Gardeners

    Today’s newsletter podcast is a special treat for readers and listeners of the Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter/podcast who might also be weather nerds…and what gardener isn’t? It’s an interview with climate scientist Daniel Swain, who, besides being a University of California Ag and Natural Resources employee at the California Institute for Water Resources, is well known on social media. Swain runs the Weather West website as well as his frequent presentations talking about extreme weather conditions in California and the west on YouTube, Bluesky, and other social media outlets. The interview focuses on how gardeners can measure weather conditions more accurately in their own yards. We discuss the limits of simple thermometers and the value of weather stations that measure temperature, humidity, wind, rainfall, soil temperature, and other variables, emphasizing that equipment placement is important for getting readings that reflect actual garden conditions. Swain explains that temperature measurements depend heavily on location. A thermometer in direct sun, near asphalt, dirt, or a house wall can read much hotter or colder than the standard shade temperature used by weather services. He says the official comparison temperature is usually taken about two meters (78 inches) above the ground, in shade, and that exposed thermometers can produce misleading highs and lows. The conversation then turns to frost protection in gardens and orchards. Swain says the relevant temperature depends on the plant and its height, because vertical microclimates can differ significantly within a few feet. He explains that cold air can settle near the ground, while higher air may be warmer, and that this matters for citrus, vineyards, tomatoes, and fruit trees. He also notes that irrigation and soil moisture can change daytime and nighttime temperatures. Discussing wind measurement, Swain says rooftop-mounted wind sensors often do not measure ambient wind well because the house creates turbulence and eddies. He explains that spinning-cup anemometers are vulnerable to dirt, rust, and wear, while sonic anemometers have fewer moving parts and can be more reliable. For wind, he recommends placing sensors away from tall obstacles and in open areas. Among the main points in the podcast: * Don’t rely on a thermometer mounted outside your kitchen window; it won’t reflect real conditions in your garden or orchard, which can differ by 6–8°F or more. * Test any temperature sensor in several yard locations before committing to a permanent spot; look for where it runs coldest and where it gets the most sun. * Keep thermometers out of direct sunlight and off dark, heat-absorbing surfaces (asphalt, concrete, bare dirt). These cause false highs by day and false lows at night. * For frost/freeze protection on citrus, hang the sensor at the height you’re actually trying to protect (e.g., ~2 feet, in the canopy shade), not high on a wall or pole. * Remember that a few feet of vertical height can matter more than many feet of horizontal distance, since cold air pools near the ground at night (temperature inversion). * If protecting a ground crop vs. a citrus tree, measure separately near the canopy top and under the canopy. Conditions differ significantly. * Use inexpensive multi-sensor stations (one indoor display, several remote probes) to monitor several yard zones at once rather than a single point. * Consider planting on gentle slopes or hillsides when possible. Cold air drains downhill, giving lower spots more frost risk and slopes a degree or two of protection. * Irrigated soil and plant tissue hold heat longer than dry soil, so damp areas will show a different (often milder) temperature swing than dry ones. Factor this into sensor placement and expectations. * Don’t mount wind gauges (anemometers) on the roofline. House edges create turbulent eddies that produce inaccurate, artificially chaotic wind readings. * For accurate wind data, mount the anemometer on a freestanding pole away from buildings, trees, and other obstacles, as high as practical. * If your station combines wind and temperature sensors in one unit, know that the ideal siting for each conflicts. Consider separating sensors and placing them independently. * Favor sonic anemometers over spinning-cup types if buying new. No moving parts means less error from dust, spiderwebs, or rust, and prices have dropped into the hundreds of dollars. * Clean and periodically recalibrate wind and temperature sensors. Even good instruments degrade and drift with age and grime. * Before designing a garden layout, spend a year observing your yard’s actual sun, shade, drainage, and temperature patterns month to month rather than guessing. Paid subscribers get extra editions of Beyond the Garden Basics, as well as access to over 300 previous editions of this podcast and newsletter. Home Weather Stations Podcast Transcript (originally aired on the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast in May 2025) Farmer Fred: [0:00] If you’re a longtime gardener, well, you just might be a weather nerd. You may want to know what’s happening, especially around your garden area and greenhouse, about many things, such as what’s the high temperature, what’s the low temperature, what about humidity, wind, soil temperature, rainfall, evapotranspiration rate, chill hours, growing degree days, heat index, UV radiation, and a lot more that can be affecting you and your plants. And your meteorological equipment right now may be as simple as a thermometer hanging outside your kitchen window, which may not be the best idea. We’ll have more about that in a minute. Or it could be as complex as a really nifty weather station that set you back $1,000 or $2,000 that sends a myriad of data to your computer or phone or your in-house monitor. So if you’re considering upgrading your backyard weather equipment, you also need to consider the placement of those various devices in your yard to get more accurate readings about what is really happening in your garden area, especially near your food crops. Today, we’re going to get some answers to those questions from Daniel Swain. If that name sounds familiar, you may know him as the man behind weatherwest.com. He’s a climate scientist focused on the dynamics and impacts of extreme events, including droughts, floods, storms, and wildfires. Daniel holds joint appointments as a climate scientist within the California Institute for Water Resources, within the University of California Ag and Natural Resources, the Institute of the Environment and Sustainability at UCLA. And he’s a research fellow at the NSF National Center for Atmospheric Research. He’s an alumnus of Davis and Stanford, and he completed postdoctoral work at UCLA. And again, his Weather West blog is excellent reading wherever you might be on social media, especially Twitter, Blue Sky, and YouTube, where he does presentations all the time about upcoming weather events. I’ve been a fan of his for years. Daniel, I’m finally glad to be able to talk to you in person. Welcome to the Garden Basics podcast. Daniel Swain: [2:15] Yeah, so thanks for the invitation to be here today. It’s great to be on the show. Farmer Fred: [2:19] All right, let’s talk about, I’d be curious about your own home weather setup. What’s that like? Daniel Swain: [2:26] Yes. Well, you know, today where I live, I actually am based physically in Boulder, Colorado these days because of that NCAR appointment, despite the primary one with the University of California. So we don’t own a home here. So I’m somewhat limited when I can personally install on this side of the Rocky Mountains. But back in California, I actually, back when I was in high school, believe it or not, installed a weather station on my parents’ home in the North Bay. And that is something that I have maintained over the years on their roof. It’s still there. It still gets maintained. And I’m still trying to use, to the best extent possible, best practices for meteorological station siting on that one. Farmer Fred: [3:08] I understand completely. I think when I bought my first large parcel of land, I got myself a Davis Instruments weather station, which was at the time one of the best you could buy. And that let me know a lot of things like wind direction, the high temperature, the low temperature, rainfall amounts, things like that. But it has gotten so much better over the last 20 or 30 years. And the data is much easier to comprehend as well because of either in-house monitors or the data is shot straight to your phone or your computer. It makes it a lot easier. As they say in the computer world, garbage in, garbage out. So where you put that home station, no matter where, what kind it is, where you put it in your yard is very important, isn’t it? Daniel Swain: [3:55] Oh, it’s incredibly important. And this is actually something that I think is not always as obvious for a lot of folks as it might be to some meteorologists, although perhaps not even to all the meteorologists in the world who haven’t worked a lot with, actual physical instrumentation. And I think this is because, you know, as you say, exactly where you put these devices and where they are relative to other things that might be, in the immediate vicinity can make a huge difference into the numbers of the data you’re actually seeing in front of you. And, you know, as you mentioned, there’s any number of different ways. Companies that manufacture weather instrumentation or packages of weather stations. For my part, just as was the case with you, the one I installed was indeed, I think it was one of the Davis Vantage Pro stations, sort of the best consumer grade ones that they offered for many years. And it’s still there. It’s still chugging along. It’s been recalibrated a couple of times over 20 years at the factory. But it is still the same origi

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Picking up where the Garden Basics podcast left off. gardenbasics.substack.com

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