Off-grid and Ignorant in Portugal

Alastair Leithead

From Our Own Correspondent-style despatches from a former BBC reporter who's now battling to live off the grid in the Alentejo countryside. Selected audio recordings of his weekly blog which began in 2020. alastairleithead.substack.com

  1. 4 days ago

    Atlantic AC

    While we knew it was a good spot we’d found here on the west coast of Portugal, we hadn’t realised just how good until the heatwaves hit Europe. We love oceans – especially big ones like the Atlantic – mainly for the stunning coastline carved out by wild waves and crisp cold waters. To me, a dip in the Med can feel a bit like soaking in soup, and although here it’s sometimes quite bracing, the North Sea it ain’t and the ocean’s a wonderful 20C+ at the moment. One of our early options – as we searched for a place to call home in Portugal – was a move to the interior of Alentejo, closer to the winelands that nestle up to the Spanish border. The rolling hills and castles and monasteries streuseled around the countryside were a huge attraction, were it not for the swealtering summer temperatures. Half an hour or so east and the mercury starts rising...further still and the thermometers can head 10 to 12C higher than here on the coast. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! This post is public so feel free to share it. We found a place we could afford – far enough up from the Algarve to avoid stag dos and hen nights and south enough of Comporta to steer clear of Clooney and Kidman, the French designer crowd and the super-wealthy arrivals who have followed. It might be the busiest time of year here, but our definition of crowded isn’t Mallorca – there’s always space on the beach even at high tide and especially in some of our more secret spots. We feel the moderating influence of the ocean in the winter as well, and this year the natural air conditioning of our prevailing NW wind has created the kind of microclimate we are grateful for every day. While the rest of Europe has been sweating it out under heat domes, the only thing we are properly toasting is our decision to move here. The 300+ days of sunshine was the attraction – especially when moving somewhere off the grid – but as climate change starts messing with everything, it seems we have found a sweet spot. And thankfully I can report another so-far-so-good summer where some fascinating people from all over the world have somehow discovered us, despite our still embryonic efforts at marketing. Discretion is the best part of valuing a hidden getaway like ours, but without giving too much away we’ve welcomed a South African constitutional court judge, an ambassador, a two-time Oscar nominee who works with Ridley Scott, a former Cambridge Analytica employee turned screenwriter, an author and journalism professor, a top Dutch musician and a huge number of fabulous and fascinating folk from all different walks of life. The calendar is full of colour, including patches of red which indicate people arriving into rooms other guests are leaving on the same day. We’ve found some cleaners to help take the pressure off Krishna who also has to keep an eye on the irrigation system and make sure the vineyard stays alive. A patch of vines took a turn for the worse and the prognosis from our friend Niels was mildew. After a bit of treatment, green shoots are emerging from plants I’d written off and being dead, and hopefully the bulk of them will survive the summer and thrive enough to store up some umph to see them through winter and a start the Spring strong. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. The calendar is still looking pretty hectic, but we do have a few gaps in the last week of August...if you’re tempted to swap a heatwave for some Atlantic waves and pay us a visit. There’s still some space on our next wine retreat at the start of October as well, and with a few retreats in our diary we have no complaints in just our second year of business. Well, apart from my foot of course… Spiking it on a sharp root, deep in the forest while wearing highly inappropriate footware was clearly my own fault, but that doesn’t make it hurt any less. Two weeks and a couple of courses of antibiotics later, and it’s still curbing my usual enthusiasm. I can understand why torturers like to focus on the feet. The MRI scan came back this week and thankfully proved I’m not going soft in my old age and there is actually a piece of wood 2.5cm long lodged deep in my foot between a couple of metatarsals. If it had been nothing more than “heavy bruising” I’m not sure I could have got away with putting my feet up and abandoning Ana and Oda to the daily breakfast routine and the regular runarounds for recycling and re-supply. But despite it all we’ve continued to fire on all cylinders, keeping our people in pancakes and our clients in croissants, cakes and coffee with thanks to the irrepressible Krishna and the fabulous José. There’s much more to write about the brilliant Erasmus young entrepreneurs scheme which brought the man from Grand Canaria to our door, and every project his season has had José’s hand in it. Oda’s bartending experience in Los Angeles has also brought a twist and a shake to proceedings with her weekly cocktail nights. We hosted guests and friends for an Eclipse viewing party, and while only 93% totality it was still quite a spectacle through the special spectacles I’d ordered through Amazon. I particularly like the way the light slipped into the perfect smiley as the moon made its way across the sun. We always try to celebrate the Perseid meteor shower every year as well, and the peak of the performance was the same night as the eclipse, so one thing slipped easily into the other as we turned off the lights – cocktails in hand – and watched the shooting stars criss-crossing the sky. And everyone has been enthusiastically tucking into our new white wine – Mauro’s fabulous blend of Arinto, Fernão Pires and Gewũrztraminer with its label lovingly designed by Oda. It depicts our favourite beach, Garfunkel and the recently departed Simon staring out to sea and is a lovely tribute to our much-missed mutt. It was a big space to fill, but somehow Ronaldo Romulus the first is managing to fill it and remains just cute enough to get away with an astonishing level of puppy destruction. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

  2. 5 Jul

    Whirlwind wedding

    I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: journalists, more than most, really need a deadline to get stuff done. And I, more than most journalists, really need a deadline. And there’s nothing like hosting a wedding for the first time – with 100 guests – to focus the mind. “Sure,” I waved, “we’ll build a deck there, and throw up a shade over the front of the Clubhouse for the meal, no bother.” It’s all so much easier said than done...but once committed, the plans had to be drawn up, the materials decided upon and delivered, and the drilling, cutting, hammering and screwing all performed around visitors here for a peaceful getaway. There’ve been many deadlines already this year: removing weeds, planting trees, shrubs, herbs, vegetables and grapes in that little window between clay soil being mud and it turning concrete. There’s been some building work, running repairs ahead of the season, raised bed making, container beautifying and competitive grass cutting, all complicated by the conflicting demands of an early start early to avoid the heat, but not wanting guests to wake up to the far-from-soothing sound of a two-stroke engine. And so began a whirlwind month of woodworking and physics to create a deck suspended over the hillside and a shade to withstand the wonderful wind from the Atlantic which – even in a heatwave – air-conditions our valley every afternoon. A hundred guests sounds a stretch for an off-grid place like ours, but with a fabulous caterer taking care of the meal service, a top audio engineer to make the most of a very talented DJ and a brilliant barman to keep the drinks flowing...I think all would agree it was an absolute triumph. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! This post is public so feel free to share it. I’ve built decks before, but every time I start on a new project it’s like I’ve forgotten everything I’ve ever learned and have to start all over again. I have to throw myself back into the YouTube videos and reconsider all the options for how to secure the foundations, which screws and supports to use, and how strong everything needs to be. The first decision was to make the platform a lot bigger than was needed for a wedding ceremony – so it could be repurposed as a starlit-sky dining deck, a yoga platform or a performance space. There was sloping ground to contend with, hard clay to drill into and planks of wood up to 5m long to manage. In situations involving structural integrity I always go overboard...something we didn’t want the bride and groom doing off the back of the deck and down the hillside, and so a rope safety barrier was added to the design. Amid a flurry of back-of-the-envelope calculations and help from Eduardo at the local farm supplies store, Krishna, José and I juggled string and stakes, spirit levels and cement to create a new space with a stunning view. But that was the easy bit – the shade over our calçada cobblestone deck proved to be even more of a challenge. When we built the place, the Clubhouse was designed around an uninterrupted view, requiring a gigantic reinforced concrete beam to support a 9m span without any posts disturbing the skyline. So we needed something strong enough to support more than 48 square metres of coconut fibre sails...but which could also be removed in the winter. Not wanting to dig up our beautiful cobbles we decided to use wine barrels filled with gravel to anchor the two posts which couldn’t be dug half a metre down. And after experimenting with different sized pipes and tubes, I discovered the joining sections of 110mm wastewater pipe was just the right size to provide a concrete-secured hole for the posts to be temporarily wedged into. With thanks to our winemaking friend Mauro Azóia for sourcing the barrels, our Stirling Architecture prize-winning pal Alex de Rijke for integrity of structure...and Isaac Newton of course for his underrated work on equal and opposite forces...we somehow succeeded in creating something both beautiful and effective. The guests appeared as if a fashion shoot had arrived in the valley. They watched the ceremony in the shade, they lunched under cover, they partied into the sunset and danced in fading light under a full moon. The VIP toilets trailered in for an off-grid celebration were fabulous, but Ana’s idea of us building a luxurious “loo with the view” to help us with big events was a great take-away. I do love a project...I wonder what YouTube has to say about that? With thanks to Chef Maria and the whole amazing catering team; Maria’s friend Lotte and her husband Auke who helped deliver a wonderful service; to Anton’s bar; Ricardo on sound...and of course to the beautiful bride Ina and dashing groom Niels for trusting us with their big day. Their guests were brilliant, dressed to the nines and we were flattered and humbled by the kind comments from their group of friends we were lucky enough to host at Vale das Estrelas for the whole weekend. We learned so much and were filled with inspiration about what we can create in the future. Sadly we didn’t need to make a speech filled with such a long list of thank yous at the awards gala we attended – despite all the votes we received from our wonderful readers we didn’t take the top prize. But we were delighted just to be there – to be nominated for a media award for our podcast series about wine – at the Portuguese Association of Hotels, Restaurants e Similar (AHRESP). It was a fantastic night out at the Estoril Casino outside of Lisbon – the place which inspired Ian Fleming’s Casino Royal – and an interesting gathering of the great and the good of Portugal’s hospitality industry. It was a great chance to dress up for the city instead of the countryside, to catch up with a few good friends and to pick up the much-needed wine barrels...and our new own-label white wine. Yes, with Mauro the winemaker and Oda the label designer (and before the labels have even arrived) we’ve already been wowing guests with our new white wine which is a wonderful blend of Portuguese grapes Arinto, Fernão Pires and the wonderfully flowery Gewürztraminer. And while I’ll be writing more about our wines and our rapidly growing vineyard in my other blog about Portuguese wines, here’s a plug for the next two wine retreats we are running in collaboration with the Hutchins Wine Academy – in early October 2026 and in April/May 2027. Please join us...and if you can’t make it, please spread the love among all your friends – the first one was amazing. And finally...and in our spare time...we have been introducing Ronaldo Romulus the first to the household. The little mutt of a dog who was born on April 1st is no joke to the other animals – asserting himself with the confidence of a small dog with big paws to grow into. We were introduced to “Ronnie” at just six weeks old – one of a litter of unexpected arrivals to a Portuguese farming couple near São Luís. He’s a cute little demon with sharp teeth who loves to chew...and he’s brilliantly turned everything upside down. Oda named him (I asked permission to add “the first” as I liked the way it sounded), but in Portugal’s first World Cup football match we were worried that Ronaldo might not be as popular a name as it used to be! The ups and downs of the tournament and Portugal’s ageing superstar are a constant cause of concern for our small dog and the reputation of his namesake, but he’s coping quite well so far. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. And he’s adjusting well to head of marketing and entertainment. Why tell everyone about how wonderful the views are, how cool it is here by the ocean while the rest of Iberia bakes, and how welcome you’ll be in the Valley of the Stars...when we can just say: “We have a cute puppy.” So come and see him now...don’t leave it until Ronaldo’s an old dog struggling to fetch a ball! Come and see us in sunny Alentejo and enjoy the ocean breeze…book here. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

  3. 31 May

    Simon’s Rainbow

    “It’s how we’re related to Drew Barrymore,” is how I’ve always started Simon’s story, so it’s a good way to also bring it to a close after 14 and a half years. As a hack I do like headlines. “I met Ana playing tennis with her husband...but we got together through clowns and fire,” is a favourite introduction to our love story. More about that another time. Oda and Ana found Simon cowering under a table at a fabulous little dog rescue place called Bark n’ B*****s in Los Angeles in early 2012. Having arrived in LA from Bangkok six months earlier we had made a few attempts to adopt a dog directly from a shelter, but baffled by bureaucracy which made it extremely difficult to find one, the girls looked elsewhere. Bark n’ B*****s was a strange blend of animal accessory shop and zoo, where the dogs were all off leash to hang out with each other and interact with the hopeful foster parents looking for their soul mate, or dæmon if you’re a Philip Pullman His Dark Materials fan. It was a chaos of yapping and blurred movement, all with one member of staff on hand with a mop and bucket to deal with any accidents and an air-lock style double door to stop escapees racing out into the Fairfax and Melrose traffic. But the dogs could be themselves, not frightened or over-compensating animals alone in a cage at the pound, competing with their neighbours to be rescued. I was working away and we wanted us to decide on a dog together...but Simon was incredibly cute and the owners warned he’d soon be snapped up, so after a quick call, the adoption was agreed by all parties and the small ball of fur was brought home. We don’t know much about the first three months or so of his life – we picked November 15th as his birthday – but for years he was petrified of metal dustbins and Hispanic men. I presume you’re still wondering where Drew Barrymore comes into all this? Well, she adopted a dog called Oliver from the same place the next day...so Simon had almost certainly sniffed the ass of the Golden Globe-winning actor’s dog. I mean we don’t send each other Christmas cards or anything, but we’re close like that 🤞and definitely related. And so the only American in the family learned to walk off-leash with Ana on the streets of LA, not to beg and – honest to his Hollywood roots – learned to perform a series of tricks from “high five” to “bang” where a finger gun persuaded him to play dead. (The initial trigger word for training was “die” but I questioned that one, as Ana and Oda were shouting it over and over again while rolling him over and popping treats in his mouth. I feared the police might be called). He developed his jaunty walk in Los Feliz during the four years Oda spent at the nearby High School and we all lived in California together, and surprised himself – and us – one day when a nearby LA fire truck siren sent him into an involuntary howl and look of confusion which we forever tried to recreate elsewhere through YouTube. These wonderful little animals are so interwoven with our lives – constant companions – and it’s only after they have gone that you realise all the moments, big and small, that we shared together. Simon was part of almost half of Oda’s life thus far, and was well-travelled, moving from LA to Nairobi, from Nairobi back to northern California via a summer in Sweden, and then to here in Portugal in the middle of COVID. The story of Simon’s life is the story of most of the time Ana and I have spent together, and it’s a long story...too long to write about here...and amid a grief that is deep, I can do little more but share some memories. Oda used to joke Simon was my son, and this is certainly the hardest blog I’ve written so far. It’s taken me a few weeks to put down on paper. Simon was ring-bearer at our friends’ outdoor LA wedding...complete with a tux, top hat and small ring box attached to his collar. Ana dispatched him down the red carpet towards the happy couple whom he knew and loved, I lured him offstage with dried chicken jerky and it’s only by the grace of dog that a squirrel didn’t distract him and throw the whole ceremony into a human/dog/squirrel farce. In the heat of one Palm Springs summer we had to buy some emergency protective rubber shoes which turned him into Spider Dog at the nearby Joshua Tree boulder park...leaping between rocks he defied gravity for 15 minutes until they were worn through. We tried to instil in Simon our love of fancy dress, but as he aged and understood we were laughing at him rather than with him, he developed a very effective strategy for countering such humiliation. Dressed as a T-rex, a lobster, a Christmas elf...or in any of the other costumes we acquired...he would simply stand still and look miserable until we took it off. Only the matching Kenyan shirts Ana bought for Simon and I were acceptable...probably because they were quite nice shirts. It was a full life: he was kidnapped by the FBI, was almost killed by a tick in Kenya which left him with a weak liver which is probably what got him in the end. We hiked the Hollywood hills of Griffith Park, ran the tracks of Karura Forest, and explored the Portuguese countryside and coastline together...although he was always more comfortable in Lisbon checking his pee-mail, inhaling gasoline fumes and being the city dog he was born to be. Ever the California shade monkey, on the beach he would race ahead to steal a stranger’s towel while they swam, and after cooling off would check if they had any chicken. I prolapsed a disk helping him fight off a slum dog in Kenya, and during our year at Stanford he delighted (almost as much as I did) in pooping on rich people’s lawns in Palo Alto...and developed a brief desire to act like a dog and fetch a ball. It didn’t last long. At our Nairobi house parties he would slink upstairs for an early night, despite our bar being named after him (the “Dog and Hound” sign beneath a clock bearing our faces always prompted the question “which one’s the dog and which one’s the hound.”) A week before he died, with faltering health, eyesight and hearing, he dragged himself all on his own up the hill from our house to join a late night party...his last. He died a little before 8.30 in the morning on the last day of our wine retreat. As he was breathing his last, our neighbour Daniel took an amazing photograph of a rainbow in our valley. A weird wind whipped through the house as he slipped away. After our retreat guests had left, we dug as deep a hole as we could in the hardened clay...and then we dug it a little deeper until our hands were sore. We went to buy an olive tree, stopped off at one of his favourite beaches to take some time to remember, and then came home to place him in the ground and plant the tree above his grave. The spot we chose reflected our happiest memory of headstrong, independent Simon – that same jaunty walk developed in LA, tail wagging, as he made his regular morning trips up the drive to visit our neighbour Daniel, where he would bark at the door for a better breakfast than ours. Tree planted, we sat back to pour a little beer on the soil, say cheers and thank you to our wonderful little dog – our Sssssssimon, our SiFi, our puppy – for all the wonderful years of companionship he had given us. We hung his Kenyan, bead-work rainbow collar on the tree and as we looked up a huge rainbow spread across the sky. Being neither religious, nor particularly superstitious, we just enjoyed one of those beautiful moments that provide people faith in something greater than ourselves. Simon’s rainbow above Simon’s tree. Next morning I walked up to the spot, cried a little and then turned around to see another giant rainbow behind me above the house. Let’s just call it his farewell. We haven’t seen a rainbow since...except on the little collar that still hangs on Simon’s tree that we drive past every day and sometimes walk to for one of the most beautiful views of our valley. I’ll make a bench soon to place there. We’ve always wanted to use that space. We will be able to sit and contemplate the lives we shared – the unquestioning love and joy he brought to our nomadic lives – and the companionship he shared with us in our Portuguese home. As he declined in health, a good friend told us it’s our responsibility to give a dog a good life, but also a good death. When he stopped eating and drinking, did we really want him alone in a sterile veterinary hospital to be put on a drip and kept alive? When my father was dying I had fought the hospital hard for the energy drinks and liquid foods to give him more strength to keep him alive. Thankfully a doctor suggested perhaps it would be better to let him slip away. We had said our farewells. It was good advice. If you met Simon and have any memories or photos of him you’d like to share please send them to me…I’m going to do a little YouTube collage for us to remember him. We made Simon as comfortable as we could. Ana sang him old Swedish songs, I urged him to let go. He had a good life, and dying in our arms, I believe we gave him a good death. It’s the first time I have lost a dog. As everyone who has lost a dog knows already, it is hard – it is proper grief – especially perhaps when the grief over the loss of family – of people – has perhaps been pushed down and put off for another time. My only remaining family is on Ana’s side. One friend said he finally understood why as a child there was a “gap between dogs” as his parents grieved. One approach is leaving time before falling in love with a little ball of fur all over again, knowing our lifespans are out of synch. Another is continuity – our other two dogs have helped comfort us, despite Garfunkel’s name now being much harder to explain. Let’s go with Garfie. Through chance, circumstance, luck and perhaps with a little help from a

  4. 17 May

    Retreat, retreat...real treat

    Before we start, I would like to ask you a favour – it won’t take long and it’ll really help us out. Portugal’s main tourism and hospitality association AHRESP has shortlisted us for a media award for our podcast series Ana & Al’s Big Portuguese Wine Adventure. We’re in the final five and the winner is decided by popular vote - your vote. Please could you vote for us? ONLY TWO DAYS LEFT - PLEASE VOTE TODAY!!You just need to click here, put in your name and email address (so they know we’re not cheating), we are the third category (“Media & Comunicação no Turismo”) and we’re the first option. Click on us, scroll down and admit to not being a robot, before clicking the big button to register your vote. Oh, and if you haven’t listened to the podcast yet, you can find it here, or in all the usual places. Thanks! The word “retreat” gets bandied around quite a bit in these parts, usually preceded by the words yoga, tai chi or tantric. But ever the mavericks, we went out on a limb and chose wine to prefix ours. And so the first Wine Retreat at the Valley of the Stars was held last weekend...and it was a rip-roaring success. We had a full house of guests from self-proclaimed wine beginners, to a couple so obsessed with vinho that their dog’s called Pinot (Noir)...and we even had a qualified sommelier join the course which was held in partnership with the Hutchins Wine Academy. Joanna Hutchins led the daily and sometimes twice-daily masterclasses, teaching participants how to “Taste Like a Somm,” blind-sampling “noble grapes” on her way into the wonderful world of Portuguese wine – with its 350 grape varieties, many of which are a lot easier to drink than they are to pronounce. Would-be wine aficionados used Joanna’s wine compass to learn how to talk about what they’re tasting, before learning which Portuguese grapes relate to the famous varieties they’ve had before. There were what-goes-with-what classes and a wine-pairing dinner along the lines of “what grows together goes together” and then participants were encouraged to define “their core wine identity” at the end of the four day retreat. We kept everyone well fed and entertained between classes, with a Portuguese wine story-tasting and taking them all to the nearby Vicentino for a tour of the vineyard and new winery by its fabulous winemaker Ana Rita Bouça. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. We tried to give everyone a chance to enjoy the peace and quiet and explore the region, hiking down the valley to our friend Jorge’s medronho distillery for a tour and a tasting. Ana was queen of the kitchen, creating three fantastic meals a day and pulling out all the stops to keep the tasters on track I did my best to keep the charcoals hot for black pork and grilled fish, and we were blown away by how so many people from such different backgrounds bonded over the (many) bottles. Aged from 30 to 90, participants travelled from as far away as North Carolina and Shanghai to this wild west coast of Portugal’s Alentejo and tasted well in excess of 50 different wines. Among them was Prof Bob Lauterborn – one of the original Mad Men (“I drank beer rather than martinis”) whose academic work led him to create the famous marketing discipline of “the four Cs” (Consumer, Cost, Convenience & Communication). This was a joint 90th birthday and pre-wedding trip with his grandson Evan. We had ex-journalists – a former BBC colleague – business folk and a fabulous American couple who have recently retired to Portugal from the US. It was a first for us all, but we were delighted with the way it went...and the wonderful feedback we received from the pioneer gang of wine retreaters. We enjoyed it so much we’re already getting excited about the next one we will be hosting in October. Running from 1st-5th it’ll be even better...we already have a few folks interested, so if you’re keen to join, please drop us a line for the details as we suspect the next one might be a sell out! And while wine is definitely our thing we also have a couple of yoga and Tai Chi retreats coming up later in the year...and a wedding as well...off grid? Absolutely...and entertaining! And as spring marches ever towards summer and the weeds increase my land-cleaning workload by the day (yes, I am definitely starting the strimming this week!), the wine retreat was just one highlight of early May. We had a big 50th birthday party celebration featuring some of our favourite friends from Bangkok days – a fabulous festa of pig spitting, oyster shucking, Portuguese champagne popping and silent disco dancing. We are so grateful that our pal Isabell Poppelbaum picked our piece of Portugal to celebrate her birthday – and it was amazing to spend time with her and all the old friends she brought along for the weekend. We hiked the coastline to build up an appetite for a lavish lunch at O Sacas – our favourite restaurant in the region – and had loads of extra help from our friends here in the area so we could join in the celebrations as well as keeping the guests fed and watered. And this weekend we welcomed the winners of the Sovereign Art Prize Gala silent auction to stay with us here in sunny Odemira for a crash course in coastal Alentejo. With thanks to the legendary Howard Bilton for inviting us to donate a prize, we were delighted to hear stories from Hong Kong and from around the world from the winners. Canadians David and Liz even brought their lovely friends Carey and Kimberley along for a weekend of winetasting, walking and exploring...and we hope they’ll be back soon and spreading the word among their friends in Lisbon and beyond. It’s only mid-May, but we’re delighted how things have got off to such a busy start. July and August are always crazy here, but with 30C predicted for the week ahead, now is a great time to come and see us. The flowers are in full bloom, our young vines are starting to get themselves properly established, and everything is blooming thanks to all the sunshine and all the winter rain. Come and see us – we’ll offering a special discount for all our readers from now until the end of June. Just book on our website and enter the code JOYOFJUNE to get 15% off. * And don’t forget to vote for us and help us win an award. Here’s a video to show you how… This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

  5. 19 Apr

    Planting the Vineyard

    For the best part of six years, a crazy combination of ambition, naivety, mis-placed confidence and pig-headed determination has created Vale das Estrelas. It’s living proof that ridiculous ideas which might just work, can actually work. Continuing the theme of doing something which creates far more work than we actually have time to spend...and so utterly outside our comfort zone that it shouldn’t really be possible...we have planted a vineyard. Just a small one...but if you’ve ever planted 1,000 grape vines by hand you’ll know it’s not that small. And we’ve been doing it all against the clock. The only remaining memory of the wet winter is the lush greenery taking over the valley and the flowers now springing into life. The beautiful white and yellow esteva rock rose blooms are bursting out across the hillsides of Alentejo as the race is on to get the good plants in and the bad plants out before everything gets a lot...harder. Summer arrived this week with temperatures in the mid 20Cs, and working outside in the middle of the day started getting uncomfortable again. The weeds which used to easily just lift up out of the gravel paths are now set in stone as the soaked clay soil is turning into concrete and muddy cars become dusty cars. At least the vines are in – and a few trees and shrubs alongside them. Hopefully a few more of the plants and bushes we’ve been buying will be in the ground over the next few days...when the attention will turn to cutting back brush to abide by fire prevention laws. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! This post is public so feel free to share it. Planting a vineyard – it turns out – requires a lot of planning and persuading people with machines to get a series of things happening on time and in order. In the background was always the question of could we afford the time and money of another project, versus could we afford not to convert the dusty big space behind the houses into something beautiful...the first thing people see as they arrive at the Valley of the Stars. We always planned to plant a vineyard of Portuguese grapes – not because we know what we’re doing, but because we like to learn and tell the story. I’d had high hopes for a field blend – a traditional Portuguese insurance policy mix of many different grapes all harvested together when most are ripe and ready and only a few are either green or raisins. But over the last couple of years continuing our wine journey through Alentejo we’ve been seeking advice from all sides...and after deciding this would be the year to plant, the stalking of anyone who would still pick up the phone has only intensified. We’ve been worrying winemakers in the way stray dogs worry sheep. But that’s not all: we’ve been annoying oenologists, vexing viticulturists, aggravating agriculturalists, irritating irrigation experts and getting on grape growers nerves. We’ve stretched “friendly advice” to its limits. We’ve asked everyone what we should do – at least twice – and have been sending a barrage of texts and videos: “Is this how we should water the plants?” I whined. “Is it too much water? Is it not enough? Did they go in early enough? Did they go in too late? Will they sprout? They’re not sprouting. Are they dead? Maybe they’re still sleeping.” And that’s just been the last week of worries for a would-be winemaker. It all started much earlier with a few friends and friends of friends in the know and in the business dropping by to advise us how to grow the best grapes and make the best wine from our cleared eucalyptus forest. The patch of fast-growing, soil-poisoning, water-hungry monocrop on our land wasn’t well maintained and so one of the first things we did was cut the whole thing forest to make way for the new houses. Once Lionel the chainsaw man had flattened the forest for free and sliced the wood up into half meter lengths to sell to bakers, we brought in a bulldozer to dig out the roots...and then another one to cut a trench around the perimeter and bury them. We pondered the standing water in winters, tested the soil, checked the profile and realised we had about 40cm of nutrient-starved soil atop a thick layer of solid clay. It was such a hard layer that the pine trees which had managed to find enough light to compete with the eucalyptus had roots growing sideways rather than down – which is why they toppled over in the winter winds. It was established early on that we would have to break that clay crust to give the grapes a good chance to grow down and tap into the water which would be retained through the heat of summer in the clay. Planting a vineyard isn’t rocket science – it’s farming. Sadly, I’m neither a rocket scientist or a farmer. “Winemaking starts in the field” we were told: in our case a large flat one of about half a hectare. It’s always been my job – and my approach to this crazy new life – to gather information from all possible sides and then either write up the story or implement the findings. But sometimes gathering too much information from too many people can hamper decision making by flooding the zone, to quote a phrase. At the end of it all we had to make the big decisions: which varieties, how far apart, how would they be guided to grow, how would they be irrigated? The winemaking stuff, we have been assured, isn’t something to worry about for at least a few years. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. We are hugely grateful to everyone who has advised us – and apologise here and now to Hamilton Reis, Mauro Azóia, Miguel Mimoso, Ana-Rita Bouça, Niels Ulmers, Carsten Jensen, Dorina and Luisa Lindemann...and the many others involved in the making of this movie...for either not doing what they said, or not doing it well enough. And in my defence, everyone I asked had a slightly different idea of what we should do. We leaned heavily on Hamilton – the famous Mouchão winemaker with his own wonderful Natus Vini winery – who planted not just his own vineyard recently, but also many hectares of the grapes growing in our vicinity over the past 20 years. And on speed-dial was patient Mauro – of Porta 6 fame, but also a wonderful small-production winemaker at Velvet Boutique and Artisan’s Terroir who creates our own-label wine (while we wait for our new guys to get producing). The first big decision was the grape varieties, whittled down to just three: Castelão for the red and Arinto and Alvarinho in the white. The field isn’t square and amid a confusion of measurements and drone photographs I left the geometry to ChatGPT which advised 800 grapes would be sufficient. Once we ploughed and were prepping to plant, by putting in wooden posts and stretching long lengths of wire marked with tape every 1.5m (the distance between each plant), we realised it was nearer 1,000 and so upped our Castelão order to 600, settling on 200 for each of the two whites. The delivery of one thousand grape vines was much more straightforward than I expected. It was a lot easier than receiving the 25 tonnes of compost in a 16m truck, finding a bulldozer with a big enough “ripper” to cut deep through the clay, and much easier than planting 1,000 vines. Like many of the busy delivery people who buzz up and down this coast the woman delivering Plansel’s plants wanted to meet at the local petrol station rather than venturing into our valley. You can listen to the story of how our grape vines were grafted in the third episode of our podcast series Ana & Al’s Big Portuguese Wine Adventure, in all the usual podcast places or here: I’ll be going into a lot more detail about creating our vineyard on The Big Portuguese Wine Adventure blog, so do sign up if you’re interested. I didn’t even need to hitch up the trailer – they came tightly packed and chilled in five small boxes. Of course that was the last part of the puzzle. First of all our local cow king farmer António “O Rei das Vacas” Oliveira, and his fabulously helpful son Gonçalo had to plough, distribute the organic material and plough again...all amid a much-changing weather forecast. Once the ripper did it’s work cutting through the clay in a day it was over to us, to Krishna and José, and with friends and guests Andrew Major and Howard Fenwick, Joanna Hutchins and Paul McGibney. It all took a lot longer than we expected. The grapes languished in bathtubs with their roots under water until we were ready for each bundle of them and five days after arriving all the plants were in. Rather than providing the vines with the usual wire trellis, we favoured “Bushvine” as they call it in South Africa – each plant clinging to its own bamboo stick and growing individually into a little bush. Local irrigation expert and general good-egg Cristiano taught us how best to run the water pipes and gave me a shopping list which he and his brother turned into a working irrigation system in a couple of hours. Automation will come soon, but for now the grapes have been given a good soaking – forcing the air bubbles away from the roots which everyone tells us is important. Now we wait. We hold our nerve and don’t give them too much water so they learn to grow deep roots down through the clay. Let’s hope the plants wake up soon and like their new home. * If you want to escape into the country, get away from it all and check out our new vineyard, next weekend is a great time to visit Odemira – the April 25th celebrations commemorating Portugal’s 1974 Carnation Revolution are a thing to behold. Come and see us! * And it’s your last chance to sign up for the Wine Retreat which we’re running with the Hutchins Wine Academy Thursday 7th May - Monday 11th May. We have just two places left. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscri

  6. 29 Mar

    Summer Time

    Dry January is a distant memory, Lent is nearly done, the sun is shining here in the valley, and spring has not only sprung, but is now powering into Portuguese summer time. Personally, January wasn’t terribly dry (because of my birthday...and the weather) and I somehow missed the start of Lent altogether...presumably due to that food and wine binge in Cape Town I told you about last time. But my annual weight-loss programme doesn’t usually get underway until around this time of year anyway. The need to shed pounds was the biggest take-away from my annual medical MOT this week – at least the blood pressure, blood sugar and cholesterol levels are in strangely reasonable shape. But it’s a good incentive to get the legs moving with a daily walking routine – all good preparation for the Big Countryside Strim-Off. For new readers...and loads of you have been arriving recently (thanks for following our journey), there’s a legal fire-prevention requirement in Portugal to cut back all the vegetation within 50m of every building. It was tough with two buildings, it got even harder with five, and after such a wet winter it’s going to be a busy one this year. The undergrowth is exploding thanks to all the water in the soil and the power in the sun, so I am currently watching in trepidation as my workload grows by the day. It’s always that balance of leaving enough time to do the work before an usually moving deadline, but not cutting too early...a bit of April rain can bring a second spurt of growth which then needs another round of grass-cutting and a doubling of the workload. Speaking of spurts, one of our agaves has already got a head start on us...and all its chums. The oldest of the plants are maybe 20 years old now and reaching the end of their lives – their last act is to use up every bit of remaining energy and fire a flower many metres into the air. They grow incredibly quickly – this one has done its first metre in under a week. Every year we kick ourselves because the plan is to intervene just before the flower starts to grow, cut out the sugar-filled core of the plant, smoke it, ferment it and distil it into mescal. Every year the buggers beat us to it. There’s already a lot of energy being expended here in the valley – I’m amid a DIY frenzy of getting everything ready in preparation for this year’s high season. I’ve been doing what they always tell you not to do and playing with electricity – as well as plasterboard, plumbing and paint. The weeds have been exploding through the gravel and we’ve been trying to pull them up while the currently malleable clay soil turns into concrete. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. The transformation takes just a week of warmth – which we’re now enjoying – and so we’ll be turning to strong vinegar and that electric high temperature zapper thingy I bought last year to keep control of our paths and walkways. Krishna is working like a demon as ever – painting, cleaning, weeding and planting. Pumps and pressure switches have been coaxed back into life or repaired (thanks Cristiano), a few solar panels which flipped over in high winds are back in business and after being some winter neglect, the salt-water swimming pool is back to its gleaming best. And it’s not just getting out the unwanted plants of course – Spring is also about getting all the new ones in! A bag of old potatoes hastily planted in our raised beds has already become a jungle of greenery trying to crowd out the garlic, spinach, spring onions and parsley which are all doing fabulously. We’ll be popping into the plant nursery this week with the trailer to plan some new additions to our landscape, but the big news this year is the vineyard. The Post-It note wall may be full of many, many projects...so many that their very presence strikes fear...but we’ve decided to become viticulturists as well. The 800 plants have been ordered, and despite all the time spent on reading, research and asking advice from so many wonderful people, it’s all happening now extremely quickly. The half hectare we’ve set aside for the vines was first cleared by Gonçalo Oliveira – the Cow King’s Son (does that make him O Príncipe de Vacas?) - before Christmas and before all the rain came along. We delayed ploughing in the organic material needed to boost around 40cm of acidic topsoil exhausted after decades under eucalyptus, and we’re glad we did – the heavy rain would have leached out many of the nutrients. Everything below that thin layer of soil is clay with a crust so tough the pine tree roots spread sideways rather than down...making them teeter in the wind. It’s a juggling act of doing everything in the right order so the young vines can be planted the day they are delivered, and it’s even more complicated because the soil is still wet. We have a narrowing window to arrange the delivery of 25 tonnes of organic material, a tonne of phosphates and whatever lime we can find to reduce the acidity, which all needs to be moved into place and ploughed into the soil. Then we have to decide where the plants are going, arrange for a “ripper” to visit - a bulldozer with a big metal spike mounted on the front to rip lines through the clay crust down to about 1.2m to give root growth a head start. Only then can we place the irrigation lines and plant the Portuguese wine grapes we have chosen: 400 Castelão reds , 200 Arinto and 200 Alvarinho in the whites. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! This post is public so feel free to share it. The clock is clearly ticking – the table grapes which grow near our house are already bud-bursting, and we need to get the vines in before summer properly arrives. The wet winter delayed building and landscaping work across the whole region for everybody, and so there’s a sudden rush of demand to dig and clear and plough and rip, so it’s a challenge...let’s hope we can keep the juggling balls spinning and the plates in the air. With a long to-do list we’re delighted to have a new arrival – Jose Perez has joined us for six months as part of the Erasmus European exchange programme for Young Entrepreneurs. Jose is from Gran Canaria where his young business is to set up an off the grid tourism lodge 1,700m up on the edge of a dormant volcano crater. The programme is about the age of the business rather than to entrepreneur, which thankfully means he’s got a lot of experience in sales and in handywork. I’d obviously heard of the Erasmus programme supporting students for European exchanges, but wasn’t aware of the entrepreneurs scheme until it was introduced to me by the head of the British Portuguese Chamber of Commerce, Chris Barton. I’m going to do a deep dive into the scheme for a magazine article which I’ll share here, but suffice to say the EU is funding Jose’s six months with us and we are hugely appreciative of his help. He’s been diving into the DIY and it’s great having someone with a business mind and fresh eyes moving into the valley. In exchange, Jose will learn about all our off-grid systems and how a new business navigates a scary new world. Jose has English to level A2. I passed my A2 in Portuguese a couple of years ago and have just passed my B1 this month...but his English is soooooo much better than my Portuguese. More speaking practice required, I think, as I embark on the next level B2. It’s unbelievable that Easter is already just around the corner – we have a fantastic weekend planned with sommelier Joanna Hutchins so why not come and join us? Our Easter Sunday food and wine pairing lunch is a dress rehearsal for the wine retreat in May (we still have two places left...and another retreat in early October if you’re interested!). And if cancelled flights have messed with your holiday plans come and stay with us for a few nights. Book online here or get in touch – the 15% Readers’ Discount still applies. Just add the code SPRING26 on checkout. See you soon! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

  7. 16 Mar

    Returning Refreshed

    Portugal’s unusually wet winter put a dampener on everything except perhaps reservoir levels and groundwater reserves. So it was great to swap the “conveyor belt of storms” for a real-life airport conveyor belt as we closed our doors for a couple of weeks and headed south for some southern summer and two glorious weeks in Cape Town. We’ve now returned from the sunshine, a deep dive into South Africa’s wine industry, and the celebration of our daughter Oda’s 30th birthday, feeling like we’d had the first proper break since our crazy Alentejo adventure began. The long list of named storms that hit Portugal was a distant memory in the South African summer, and we thankfully brought the sun back with us. Even my lost bag made its way home less than 24 hours after missing its transfer in Milan with wine and biltong all present and correct. There’s something deeply relaxing and inspiring about the city perched at the end of Africa. We love Cape Town. It was my first posting as a foreign correspondent in 2001 and it’s held a special place in my heart ever since. I was immediately blown away by its beauty, it’s wild oceans and mountains and its stunning winelands where I first got a proper taste for vinho at a remarkably good exchange rate. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. A few years later it was my escape from the chaos of covering the war in Afghanistan; Ana and I made a few trips to the “Mother City” when we lived in Nairobi; and Oda also fell for its beauty, it’s fabulous affordable food and its small city life. It was her boyfriend Derek’s first trip to South Africa and he threw himself into an adventure which included jamming on a township electric guitar fashioned from an oil can, leading a packed field in a karaoke bar and climbing up Table Mountain with me (boy, I’m out of shape). Despite being on a budget we ate and drank extremely well, went to wonderful wineries and rediscovered the city, the beaches and the dramatic coastline. Oda’s birthday lunch was at an amazing place called Salsify at the historic Roundhouse building above Camps Bay and with a view of the “12 Apostles” – the mountains which line up one after another south of Table Mountain. The wine pairing menu was a wonderful blend of tastes flavours with small-production and old vine wines...I’m salivating just thinking about it. It was great to hear more Portuguese grapes are growing in South Africa and even amphora wines are being introduced, but the comparison of the two countries and the direction their wine industries are taking is another story in itself I promise to share. We stayed a couple of nights in Franschhoek, dined at Reuben’s, and I was able to catch up with the indefatigable former BBC cameraman Richard Atkinson whose house building project with the best view of the valley inspired us eight years ago. We missed university pal Nick Spotswood by a couple of hours as he headed to the UK, but his folks Bill and Judith gave us a warm welcome at the family wine farm in Stellenbosch. The view of the mountains from their stoop only gets better, their wine is delicious and the welcome as warm as ever. Luke and Lauren Hirst treated us to a proper braai and we opened some of our wines they’ve been looking after for eight years. The whites had sadly passed their best, but the reds more than made up for our sense of loss. We had a close encounter with a couple of the African Penguins formerly known as Jackasses (after their call), we hung out with some seals at the Waterfront, wandered Saturday and Sunday markets and enjoyed South Africa’s version of the Time Out Market which Lisbon is famous for. It was a great reminder of the similarities between my three favourite places: Cape Town, Portugal’s Alentejo litoral and the Central Coast of California. All have an almost identical latitude, similar climate and vegetation, beautiful light, stunning mountains, wild oceans and great wine. That’s the boxes, and they’re all ticked. While we were living it large our animals were under the excellent care of two fabulous couples. Our friends Rob and Emily who live in Lisbon took the first two week shift to watch over our house, our cats and our dogs...including the now 100 year old Simon who dabbled with incontinence and old-guy confusion before his new liver and thyroid medication properly kicked in. Alan and Margery Gledson kindly took the final stretch and helped us with some Spring cleaning and some building work before and after we returned to the valley. Thanks so much to you guys for giving us the chance for a welcome break which revitalised us as we prepare for our next full season. This week marks the one year anniversary of our tourism licence and our opening up for business, and we’re already delighted at the number of people – and retreat organisers –supporting us for 2026. While we were away a few more people signed up for our first Wine Retreat in May with the Hutchins Wine Academy. There are still a few spaces left, but it’s proved so popular we’ve already set the date for our second “Taste like a Somm” residential course: October 1st to 5th...so if you were one of those people who couldn’t make May please get in touch. In preparation for one of the retreat highlights – the “What grows Together Goes Together” pairing dinner – Joanna Hutchins (DipWSET) will be in the valley at Easter to pair up with Ana to create an Easter Sunday spectacular. We’ve built a whole weekend around it, including three nights B&B, a Good Friday fish braai and an Alentejo wine story-tasting. If you’d like to take the chance to join the party, just drop me a line or go to our website, pick your room for either Thursday-Sunday or Friday-Monday, and choose the “Escape for Easter” plan. It starts from €456pp (based on two sharing). Joanna’s still bouncing between Alentejo and Nuuk in Greenland but has recently launched a great Substack page on wine and we hope to hear more about her Portuguese wine adventures. We eased ourself back into work by hanging out with the Gledsons and it gave us a great reminder of all the interesting people you stumble across in our weird little part of Portugal. We met Nils and Erling together at the Crabstaurant (A Chaminé in Brejão) and got talking... Nils Lou is a former pilot who has a small quinta on the edge of our nearest village of São Teotónio and spends his time between here, native Denmark, and the front line of the Ukrainian war. He has more than 70 years of stories all delivered in a quiet and calm 1950s-style English accent picked up during a stint with the Royal Air Force (RAF) in the UK. He flew all sorts of jet and propellor aircraft, including the first civilian United Nations flight into Kuwait during the first Gulf War, has tales of daring-do in all sorts of odd and extraordinary places, and it turns out he and his visiting pal Erling have a new hobby. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! This post is public so feel free to share it. They drive donated trucks from Denmark to Ukraine to help with the war effort – delivering them where they’re most in need and then finding their own way back. Keep your heads down fellas. I’m going to post another update in a week or so about another character we’ve come across in our neighborhood – I’ve mentioned the international wood architect Prof Alex de Rijke before and I’d love to share a BBC radio programme and magazine article on Portugal’s Wooden House revolution which I produced with his help...but space is too short today. Everything looks brighter after a break and in the glorious sunshine and warmth of Spring. The colourful pointillism painting our landscape becomes at this time every year is slowly starting to take shape, with the first yellows, the white seas of daisies and the tiny blues already bursting out. The energy from the sun and the water in the soil is boosting everything – the olive trees, the succulents...and of course all the weeds. The Spring strimming workout is going to be epic this year. And the real welcome home (apart from the animals) has been all the interest in our place for the summer and the autumn – planning is well underway for our first wedding in June and more yoga and tai chi retreats are blocking dates later in the year. There’s no better time to come and visit – Easter will be fun and it’s such a special time of year here in the valley. And as a thank you for following our journey please book with the code SPRING26 for a 15% reader’s discount for the rest of March and April (not including the Easter weekend). Right...got to go...wish me luck...my final B1 Portuguese exam is tonight and I really need to cram it this afternoon! Até proxima as they say around here, or see you next time. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

  8. 7 Feb

    Biblical Weather

    Marta has arrived. After being battered by Ingrid, Joseph, Kristin...oh Kristin...and Leonardo, the sixth named storm of the year has done what only storm systems can do...and is “barrelling” into Portugal. There are certain words and phrases it’s hard to separate from their familiar context. Is anything else dour (pron: DOO-er) except a Scotsman? Only perhaps the weather in Scotland...which is remarkably similar to the last five weeks in Portugal. It’s just a lot warmer here and being up on a hill removes the threat of flooding. As I write, the wind is whipping up a hoolie (that’s the Scottish gale, not the Irish party), all the animals have elected to stay inside, the fire is on and we are sitting in the warm watching the weather apps, monitoring our solar battery levels and hoping nothing too important blows away. Of course, on the news, storms barrelling into the coast often cause “devastation” and in some cases “utter devastation.” It might be a trope or journalese, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t true. The Portuguese government described this as “devastating crisis” caused by the wave of storms – the state of emergency here has been extended and there’s talk of generational flooding...all with a presidential election taking place on Sunday. Tens of thousands of people were still without power a week after a bomb cyclone and sting jet hit Leiria which is mid-way between Lisbon and Porto quite a way north of us. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. More about those two phenomena later – and about their connection to Britain’s Great October Storm in 1987, Krakatoa, bombing raids to Japan during the Second World War, and the two policemen responsible for sending us British weather. I have organised my life very carefully around avoiding British weather for the best part of 25 years, so you can imagine my current disappointment, even if I haven’t yet needed to change out of my shorts. But we’ve been lucky here in the valley – the worst so far was the departure of a large section of protective glass from its moorings next to the pool, which somehow didn’t break in the fall. A few sections of plastic roof have been relocated and retrieved from the forest, the solar panels deep in the valley have flipped over onto the pillow tank, which have so far avoided puncture despite Daniel’s metal pumphouse roof sprouting wings and taking flight. One gigantic eucalyptus tree has been uprooted and is being desperately supported by one of its neighbouring trees, slowing its journey to the forest floor...we’re already eying that one up to make a bench. Check out journalist Jorge Branco’s latest Substack update on the storms: Many of the tall dead eucalyptus trees on our neighbour’s land that were sheltering in place amid the new growth following the fire a few years ago have taken a tumble making the wood look more like a giant game of Pick Up Sticks. Our track is a little cut up but has been worse as main roads have been blocked by falling trees and firefighting bombeiroshave been busy with their chainsaws. At least 13 people have been killed across the country. And while some communities are still without water, others have far too much. The incessant conveyor belt of extra-tropical storm systems being guided straight into the Iberian coast since the start of the year has soaked the soil, filled up the reservoirs and sent storm surges flowing up the rivers...to meet the runoff coming down. The consequences continue to be dramatic. Riverside shops and homes in Alcácer do Sal were flooded up to the first floor as the Sado River level went up two metres in 20 minutes. Memories of covering hurricanes, typhoons, cyclones and tornadoes as a foreign correspondent have come rushing back this week. The chaos in the French Quarter as Katrina hit New Orleans; the entire bowling alley flattened by a twister in Oklahoma (but with the pins in one lane somehow still standing); Manila under water; and then riskily escaping Madagascar’s east coast by helicopter just ahead of a massive storm. But with the hatches firmly battened down – and lunch plans quite literally rain checked by a downpour that will undoubtedly trap our neighbours on their land until the flash flood has risen and abated – I’ve had time ponder wordplay and meteorology and to have a deep dive into why we’re getting such a hammering this year. Thanks for reading Off-grid and Entertaining in Portugal! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. My geography degree and years of watching weather patterns in our new off-grid home, to understand when to expect trouble, were augmented with a couple of long and slightly confusing conversations with two Portuguese professors. But I think I’ve worked it out, and with advance apologies to the meteorological purists, I’m going to have a go at explaining it...on the basis that any accuracy lost in the act of simplification is all my own fault. It’s the Jet Stream. There we go. You need more? Ok... There are a number of jet streams, but the one affecting us is a fast-flowing river of air flowing west to east at around 30,000 feet (9,000m) across the Atlantic. It’s what planes fly into when going from the US to the UK to save fuel and time...and what they try to avoid on the way back. It’s created as heat from the equator flows towards the poles and is pulled east by the earth’s rotation. It speeds up where the warm air meets cold polar air. Like a river it can run fast and straight at 250mph or 400km/h, or meander more slowly making weather systems linger longer…and it can also move further north or further south. This year it’s further south, broadly bringing icy temperatures to northern Europe, the split of weather we see across North America and more storms to Iberia. The Baltic’s been, well, Baltic. The minus 34.3C in Lithuania is the lowest since 1996 and Tunisia’s had its heaviest rain in 70 years. There’s so much more I want to tell you about the Jet Stream...about how it was noticed after the 1883 Krakatoa volcanic eruption created an “equatorial smoke stream”; about how it slowed American bombing raids to Japan in World War Two, but at the same time sped Japanese explosive-laden hydrogen-filled paper balloons towards the US. (Fo-Go Balloon bombs were the first intercontinental weapons system and there’s a great episode of the wonderful Radiolab podcast all about it). Some blue-sky, moon shot thinkers believe it could even be a source of sustainable power generation (presumably once they work out how to keep an aerostatic wing at 30,000 feet...and get the electricity back down to earth). “They [jet streams] meander around the globe, dipping and rising in altitude/latitude, splitting at times and forming eddies, and even disappearing altogether to reappear somewhere else.” [Source: NOAA] But there’s more to discuss. The jet stream guides mid-Atlantic storms and affects where the “two policemen” direct traffic to quote Prof Carlos DaCamara from the University of Lisbon. The conveyor belt of storms are delivered between the clockwise turning Azores High (in the south) and the anticlockwise spinning Icelandic Low in the north...their position and strength also contributes to pushing six named storms into Portugal this year like on a conveyor belt. Warmer ocean temperatures and a ready source of water vapour arriving on an atmospheric river from the Caribbean...and we here in Portugal have a lot of wind and a lot of rain. Many British readers will remember the Great October Storm of 1987 which killed 18 people, felled 15m trees with gusts of 115mph...and came the night after BBC weather forecaster Michael Fish joked there wasn’t a hurricane coming. He was right – in a way – it wasn’t caused by a hurricane, but by the same phenomenon that caused all the damage in Leiria, according to Prof Pedro Miranda, also of the University of Lisbon. He explained it was years later in 2004 when Prof Keith Browning and colleagues at the University of Reading identified an intense localised wind descending from a great height where you wouldn’t normally expect it in a storm system. They dubbed it a “sting jet” after a noticeable pattern on satellite maps resembled a scorpion’s tail. They happen in “bomb cyclones” – depressions which form quickly and deepen rapidly to produce higher winds and stormier weather. The discovery helped forecasters alert people in Scotland in 2011 and 2012 and it was predicted in Portugal last week...only a bit further north than anticipated. That’s a lot to take it...and if you’ve made it this far, congratulations. There’s so much more to say, but this is neither the right time or place...I need to head up the hill soon to see what these crazy winds have done. With the rain still falling and full reservoirs starting to release water into the rivers, there’s more flooding and chaos to come in Portugal no doubt, but a break in the conveyor belt of named storms is predicted. Somehow, between squalls, our solar panels bring in plenty of power to keep our batteries well and truly topped up. But it’s time to bring on some more sunshine, a little less wind and a less cloudy dramatic view of our valleys and the mountains beyond. Our tanks and our lakes are full...it’s now time for a break in the weather. To learn more about how to visit Alastair & Ana’s eco-luxe lodge Valley of the Stars or Vale das Estrelas, visit the website where you can check availability and book your stay. They’re also running their first Wine Retreat in May with the Hutchins Wine Academy. It’s already filling up, but there are still some places available. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit alastairleithead.substack.com

About

From Our Own Correspondent-style despatches from a former BBC reporter who's now battling to live off the grid in the Alentejo countryside. Selected audio recordings of his weekly blog which began in 2020. alastairleithead.substack.com