Paperback Perfumes

Clare Presser

Welcome to Paperback Perfumes! The host Clare Presser is a Librarian with a fascination for fragrances and their capacity to evokes memories and experiences through the activation of the olfactory system. In this podcast she chats with guests about their connections with scents and stories through the pairing of perfumes and literary texts. Think of it as reader’s advisory for fragrance lovers, or fragrance recommendation for bibilophiles - whichever experience is your first priority. It’s fun exercise that allows a lovely discussion around people’s personal interpretation of experience, scent, and story Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

  1. 38 MIN AGO

    The Importance of Hygiene

    “Because the middle classes and the nouveaux riches welcomed gas, water closets and piped-in water, the upper classes drew back. Many a denizen of a sprawling, stony-cold country estate looked on “mod cons” as slightly uncouth, over-eager and—worst of all—middle-class.”- Katherine Ashenburg, The Dirt on Clean: An Unsanitized History In this episode, I’m joined by Clayton Ilolahia, an Evaluation and Communication specialist at Fragrances of the World, to explore the rich intersection of art, commerce, and fragrance. Together, we discuss into how changes in the media landscape has transformed the perfume industry, reshaping not just marketing but the creative process itself. We also explore the evolving role of fragrance evaluators, the deeply subjective nature of smell, and the cultural ideas—past and present—that shape our sense of cleanliness, identity, and performance. Clayton brings a wealth of knowledge from his global fragrance writing, formal training at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, and more than a decade of self-guided learning. His background in learning and development, working with brands like Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton (to name a few), adds an insightful dimension to our conversation. His passion for education and olfactory storytelling makes this a thoughtful exploration of the changing landscape of modern perfumery and how we socialise through our scent. Fragrances mentioned: L’eau d’Issey - Issey Miyake Black Oregano - Atelier Materi Blanche Bête - Liquides Imaginaires Shalimar - Guerlain Chypre (Le Chypre) - Coty Fracas - Robert Piguet Book discussed: The Dirt on Clean: An Unsanitized History - Katherine Ashenburg Find Clayton and Fragrances of the World online here Instagram: @clayton_ilolahia @fragrancesoftheworld Website: fragrancesoftheworld.com Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    59 min
  2. 17 FEB

    A Box of Spices

    “Now, I see that every relic, however battered, every scratch on every knick-knack, is engraved with a timeless story of someone's life.” - Eve Makis, The Spice Box Letters Hosting this conversation with Alina Tadevosyan gave me the chance to learn about the powerful themes of Armenian cultural: resilience, identity and heritage preservation. Alina shared how everyday acts of cultural expression — from cooking traditional Armenian dishes to celebrating family milestones — function as meaningful forms of resistance and survival. We explored the role of storytelling in keeping collective memory alive and why these traditions remain essential to the Armenian community today. Alina also spoke about founding ARAKYÁL, the luxury fragrance house she launched in 2025, inspired by her Armenian roots and the ancient spirit of her homeland. A lifelong creative, she has worked across classical singing, fashion design, graphic design and art direction, with scent becoming her newest medium of self‑expression. ARAKYÁL, meaning “apostle” in Armenian, reflects her belief that fragrance is a messenger — carrying memory, identity and quiet power. At its core, ARAKYÁL is about helping people wear their story. Fragrances mentioned: Elixir Colour of Nur Meron Book discussed: The Spice Box Letters - Eve Makis Find Arakyal online here Instagram: @arakyal.official Website: www.arakyal.co Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    47 min
  3. 10 FEB

    Emblems

    “Like a long lost cousin to the tarot, these rich images and symbolic stories could become a source for guidance, comfort, wisdom and beauty in your life. Just open the book to any picture and fall into it. Read the motto and story, use your imagination, and let the emblem work its magic” - Mandy Aftel , Symbolorum: The Secret Wisdom of the Emblems It feels surreal to start Season 3 of the podcast talking to Mandy Aftel—an extraordinary natural perfumer and author whose influence on the world of scent and creativity runs deep. As the founder of Aftelier Perfumes, Mandy hand‑crafts her perfumes in small batches in her Berkeley studio, bringing a sense of beauty and artistry to everyone who encounters her work. Her contributions have earned wide recognition: Vogue has called her one of the industry’s “most prolific talents,” Vanity Fair has described her as an “angel of alchemy,” and Forbes has named her among the top bespoke perfumers in the world. She also serves as an advisor at The Institute for Art and Olfaction, which created the annual Aftel Award for Handmade Perfume in her honor, and she is the recipient of the Septimus Piesse Visionary Award for lifetime achievement. And then, of course, there is her micro museum, where you can see, touch and smell the history of perfumery. In our conversation, Mandy dives into the creative journey behind her newest book, Symbolorium: The Secret Wisdom of Emblems. We explore the fascinating world of 1600s emblem books, the historical texts that inspire her, and the deep connections she sees between nature, art, and the craft of perfume. It’s a rich, inspiring discussion to kick off the season. Fragrances mentioned: Patchouli Noir - Mandy Aftel Patchouli essential oil Patchouli absolute Oakmoss absolute Book discussed: Symbolorum: The Secret Wisdom of Emblems - Mandy Aftel Find Mandy Aftel online here Instagram: @aftelierperfume Website: aftelier.com Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1h 7m
  4. 04/11/2025

    The Maker

    “Bless the Maker and His water.Bless the coming and going of Him.May His passage cleanse the world.May He keep the world for His people. ” - Frank Herbert, Dune In the final episode of Season Two, I’m joined once again by Michael Nordstrand to explore the rich and layered world of Frank Herbert’s Dune. You might remember our first conversation in Episode 51, where we wandered through fairytales and fragrance. This time, we dive into Dune’s politics, ecology, and the power of scent — from the symbolism of spice to the relationships that define key characters in the text. We talk about how Dune continues to shape literature, culture, and even perfume, and reflect on what its themes of power, technology, and environment still teach us today. A reflective close to Season Two — connecting story, scent, and the desert worlds that stay with us long after reading. Fragrances mentioned: Mxxx. - Eris Parfums Passage d'Enfer - L'Artisan Parfumeur Ajedrez - Frassai Infusion d'Iris - Prada Fate Woman - Amouage Figment - Amouage 1885 Bains Sulfureux - Les Bains Guerbois Bois Datchaï - Maison Crivelli Cabochard Cherie - Gres Cabochard - Gres Shalimar - Guerlain Tilda Swinton Like This - Etat Libre d'Orange Book discussed: Dune - Frank Herbert Find Mythologist Studios (and Michael) online here Instagram: @michaelnordstrandperfumer @mythologiststudio Website: mythologiststudio.com Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    1h 14m

About

Welcome to Paperback Perfumes! The host Clare Presser is a Librarian with a fascination for fragrances and their capacity to evokes memories and experiences through the activation of the olfactory system. In this podcast she chats with guests about their connections with scents and stories through the pairing of perfumes and literary texts. Think of it as reader’s advisory for fragrance lovers, or fragrance recommendation for bibilophiles - whichever experience is your first priority. It’s fun exercise that allows a lovely discussion around people’s personal interpretation of experience, scent, and story Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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