HODINKEE Podcasts

HODINKEE

This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.

  1. The Business of Watches [032] Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches, And Accessories)

    1 day ago

    The Business of Watches [032] Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches, And Accessories)

    This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces.  The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC.  Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica.  The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and to make further use of its manufacturing expertise through new designs and models that draw on Leica's long association with mechanics and watchmaking.  Show Notes 0:53 100 Years of Leica: Event in Wetzlar 2:35  Henrik Ekdahl is the new Managing Director of Ernst Leitz Werkstätten GmbH 4:13 Cartier 4:50 Rolls-Royce 4:59 Mini Cooper (BMW) 6:40 IWC Shaffhausen 8:36 The History of Leica Watches 11:30 Example of vintage Leica watch (eBay) 12:36 Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on watches (YouTube) 13:38 Reinhard Meis (Deployant) 14:37 Lehmann 16:25 Leica Watches 22:21 Leica Red Dot (Red-Dot-Org) 25:59 Leica ZM 2 Monochrom 27:00 Leica ZM 12 27:30 Chronode 28:51 Leica Stores 34:01 Gerd Plange 35:40 Leica Portugal Manufacture

    42 min
  2. The Business of Watches [031] Roy Davidoff (Geneva Vintage Watch Dealer And Collector)

    1 Jul

    The Business of Watches [031] Roy Davidoff (Geneva Vintage Watch Dealer And Collector)

    Roy Davidoff has spent a life keeping up with the time. Born into a family of jewelers and a youth spent in Geneva, followed by a move to Miami, watches have been a constant throughout his professional career.  A return to Switzerland saw stints at brands including Bovet and Jacob & Co., before becoming a dealer of vintage and pre-owned with his brother and the launch of their business  - Roy & Sacha Davidoff SA - more than a decade ago. The fraternal duo gained prominence as dealers and experts regarding the Omega Speedmaster - a specialized section of the vintage market that has most certainly had its ups and downs. A respected name and authority in the industry, Davidoff most recently served as a jury member for The Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow, where, alongside fellow judges including Kari Voutilainen, were tasked with making selections for creations from European watchmaking students who were chosen for their technical and artistic interpretations reconsidering different ways to tell time. Davidoff's role as a dealer and collector demands deep knowledge and constantly taking the pulse of the secondary market, shifting tastes, and changing demands. At the high-end and elite level, the market has changed, Davidoff says, as many collectors seek assurance and certainty in modern, independent brands and watchmakers. He's candid, enthusiastic, and dedicated to the Swiss industry, where he's found a place among the brands, component makers, and collectors. Show Notes 0:53 Roy and Sacha Davidoff, Brothers Since 1983 1:29 In-DepthThe Surprising Origins Of TAG Heuer's Formula 1 Watches (Hodinkee) 2:47 National Association Of Watch And Clock Collectors 4:09 Matthew Bain Inc. 4:20 Bovet 6:00 In Conversation with Hervé Schlüchter (Revolution) 7:59 Rexhep Rexhepi (YouTube) 8:50 Biver Watches 9:50 Cartier Maison Des Metiers Des Arts 10:41 Everything You Need To Know About The Omega Speedmaster (Hodinkee) 14:14 Omega Says Ex-Employees Responsible For $3 Million Fake Omega Speedmaster 20:46 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee) 28:00 Breguet 32:32 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned 34:05 Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow 39:03 Jean-Pierre Hagmann (Hodinkee)

    1hr 1min
  3. The Business of Watches [029]  Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co.

    10 Jun

    The Business of Watches [029] Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co.

    This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand enjoyed a strong 2025, growing sales and volumes, according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, bucking the industry trend.  And the brand recently got some high-profile exposure on the wrist of the Roland Garros winner with French Open champion Alexander Zverev wearing Jacob & Co. during his matches and on the podium. We sat down in Geneva with Benjamin Arabov, the Chief Executive Officer of Jacob & Co., to talk about the brand's operations and strategy. You might be surprised at how Jacob & Co. watches are produced, the size of its production, and how the brand is being impacted by the war in the Middle East. Finally, looking ahead to next week's episode, number 30 in the history of The Business of Watches, we're planning a special Q&A episode and will gather some of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-In-Chief James Stacey and Editors Mark Kauzlarich and TanTan Wang, to answer your business-related questions. Want to offer up a question? Please drop it in the comments on this episode's page on Hodinkee.com. We're looking forward to hearing from you and answering your questions on all things watches and business!  Show Notes  0:40 Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee) 1:13 Chopard plans to cut jobs in Val-de-Travers (Le Temps) (French, paywall) 2:59 Chopard plans to cut around 30 jobs (RTS Info) 3:20 Swiss Watch Export Data for April (FHS) 4:35 Jacob & Co. 5:45 CEO Benjamin Arabov Triples Sales In Five Years (Bilan French)) 10:20 Jacob & Co. Collaborates On Exclusive Watch With Salman Khan (Watch Pro) 13:46 Concepto Watch Factory (company website) 14:35 Jacob Arabo / Arabov (Wikipedia) 15:17 Astronomia Regulator 18:50 Our Favorite Guilty Pleasure Watches Of 2018 (Hodinkee) 21:15 Godfather II Watch (Jacob & Co.) 25:01 In-Depth: How The Five Time Zone Shaped Modern Watch Culture (Malaika Crawford Hodinkee)

    30 min
  4. The Business of Watches [028] Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc

    3 Jun

    The Business of Watches [028] Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc

    This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year.   And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces. Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website. Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before.  Show Notes  0:40  Business News: Secondary Market Prices Climb, James Marks Jumps To Sotheby's, Christie's Grabs Cartier Watch Record (Hodinkee) 0:50 WatchCharts.com 1:49 The Cartier Crash And The New Value Of Imperfection  (MenWith Magazine) 2:42 This Record-Setting Patek Is The Priciest Watch Ever Sold In Asia (Maxim) 3:28 Visit Brighton (Great Britain) 4:40 Studio Underd0g 6:10 A Minions Children's Watch (eBay)9:17 Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair 9:23 Inside The EPHJ (Hodinkee Swiss 101) 11:33 Studio Underd0g 01Series Watermelon 13:40 Assembled In Great Britain (Studio Underd0g) 17:10 Studio Underd0g Buys Horologium (Watch Pro) 22:30 The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France 24:50 Studio Underd0g 02Series 25:08 Studio Underdog 03Series 29:03 A Fresh Passion Fruit Collab From H. Moser And Studio Underd0g (Hodinkee) 41:27 A Quirky Watch Brand Studio Gets Serious (New York Times) 42:54 Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers Bellwether Report

    51 min
  5. The Business of Watches [027] Angelus and Arnold & Son CEO Pascal Béchu

    27 May

    The Business of Watches [027] Angelus and Arnold & Son CEO Pascal Béchu

    This week on The Business of Watches, we're in La Chaux-de-Fonds to speak to Pascal Béchu, who heads not one, but two Swiss watchmaking brands, Angelus and Arnold & Son.  They're both specialized, low-production, high-horology watchmakers, with very different back stories. While Angelus is a historic Swiss brand known for its repeaters, chronographs, and long power reserve movements, Arnold & Son celebrates the work and innovation of one of history's most important (British) watchmakers, John Arnold. While quite different in their product and strategies, the two brands share the same parent company in Japan's Citizen Group, and both work closely with movement maker La Joux-Perret, with whom they share manufacturing and office space in La Chaux-de-Fonds.  Pascal Béchu is in charge of both marques. He talks about the history and the future for both brands, some recent successes in the form of celebrity clients for Arnold & Son, and a GPHG prize for Angelus. He also discusses prices and the impact the strong Swiss franc and the soaring price of precious metals are having on corporate strategy and planning.  Show Notes 3:55  Arnold & Son 4:36 John Arnold (Fondation Haute Horlogerie) 4:55 Longitude Act 1714 (Wikipedia) 6:56 Arnold & Son Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 (GPHG) 7:10 John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet (WatchAffinityUK) 7:52 John Roger Arnold (Antiquarian Horology) 8:00 The British Masters (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Oct. 2000) 10:20 Angelus Watches 11:07 Angelus Heritage 12:48 Historic Swiss Brand Angelus Is Back And Presents The U10 Tourbillon Lumière (Quill & Pad) 15:10 Angelus La Fabrique 16:59 The Strange Allure Of The Monopusher Chronograph (Hodinkee) 18:32 Angelus Instrument De Vittesse (GPHG) 19:10 Angelus Télémètre Yellow Gold (GPHG) 22:09 Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue 30:00 Angelus Tinkler (released at Watches and Wonders 2026) 30:48 Ed Sheeran Named One of Time's Most Influential And Wears a Patek and Arnold & Son in photos (Hodinkee)  33:30 Arnold & Son Globetrotter 34:27 Arnold & Son DSTB 35:50 Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 43:50 The Business of Watches Podcast: La Joux-Perret CEO Jean-Claude Eggen

    51 min
  6. The Business of Watches [026] Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

    20 May

    The Business of Watches [026] Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

    This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. But first, we're joined by Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich to talk about the Audemars Piguet X Swatch Royal Pop collaboration and its launch day, which certainly didn't go according to plan at some locations where massive crowds overwhelmed staff and security and forced store closures.  Show Notes:  1:30 Mark Kauzlarich 1:50 Royal Pop (Swatch) 2:40 Hands-On: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop (Impressions, Live Photos, And More) (Hodinkee) 3:30 Sotheby's Sale of the Audemars Piguet 'Grosse Pièce' Shatters Records, Becomes By Far Most Expensive Audemars Piguet At $7,736,000 8:00 Royal Pop Sales Resume After Launch Rush For Audemars Piguet X Swatch Collaboration Forced Store Closures (Hodinkee) 12:05 Watch Spotting: The Watches Of Super Bowl LX (Hodinkee) 16:48 Our Story (Christopher Ward) 17:28 Christopher Ward showrooms 20:39 Windup Watch Fair22:10 Christopher Ward Forum 26:30 How Christopher Ward Became a £100m Watch Brand (Esquire) 28:29 Mike Pearson (Christopher Ward) 36:41 The Christopher Ward 'C63 True GMT' Adds A Local Jumping Hour Hand GMT To The Lineup (Hodinkee) 44:50 Business News: Christopher Ward To Roll Back U.S. Tariff Price Hit By 29% With Corporate Structure Shift (Hodinkee) 48:47 Business News: Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee)  49:50 Introducing: The Christopher Ward C12 'Loco' (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 52:53 Introducing: Christopher Ward Overhauls The Sealander Line With Design Refinements And Upgrades 56:26 Trump tariff refunds begin but consumers likely to miss out (BBC)  1:01:57 In-Depth: How One Chiming Watch From Christopher Ward Turned The Watch World On Its Head

    1hr 10min
  7. The Business of Watches [025] Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito

    13 May

    The Business of Watches [025] Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito

    This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We talk about Credor's positioning within the Seiko group and its expansion into international markets. The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for. We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is becoming an increasingly popular choice for some clients. But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.  Show Notes 1:18 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee) 1:34 Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen "The Oval" (Phillips) 3:20 Akrivia AK-06 (Phillips) 3:41 Louis Richard "Triple Detent Constant Force One Minute Tourbillon Chronometer" 5:04 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 "Polychrome Two-crown World-time", "Doppia Corona Policromo" (Phillips) 6:10 Records Shatter at Sotheby's Hong Kong: Important Watches Auction Soars to HK$414.2 Million / US$52.9 Million 7:25 Audemars Piguet Coussin Tortue (Christie's) 8:22 Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 (Phillips) 13:33 Credor (company website) 14:22 Interview: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito On Grand Seiko's Future (Hodinkee)  19:38 Introducing: Credor Makes Its First Watches And Wonders Appearance With Three Novelties (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 20:00 In-Depth A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 1 (Hodinkee) 21:10 Introducing: Credor's Revival Of The Locomotive, A Long-Overlooked Gerald Genta Design (In-Depth, Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 22:53 Credor Studios (Credor) 24:36 Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value (Hodinkee) 25:00 Credor History 28:07 Introducing: Grand Seiko Shrinks Ultra-Accurate U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers To Less Than 41mm Wide (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 30:26 Grand Seiko 9F Quartz

    33 min

About

This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.

You Might Also Like