What's the Problem?

Ehlers Estate

As the wine industry is in transition, it seems that many are scrambling for solutions. Taking a step back, winemaker Adam Casto is looking to define the problem. Speaking to a wide array of different industry perspectives, he aims to get to the heart of the issue from all angles. New episodes will be published on Tuesdays at Noon PST, with bonus episodes published on Thursdays. ehlersestate.substack.com

  1. 06/11/2025

    Randall Grahm

    Winegrowing, done properly, is quite unreasonable. A ballerina, spinning gracefully on their toes until they bleed, is quite unreasonable. Sailing past the horizon in a hollowed-out log with no certain aim but to go “there”, is quite unreasonable. Existence itself sometimes feels quite unreasonable. It is the varying degrees of this absurd and hazardous itch that pulled us from the Savannah and into outer space. The vast majority of us though, quite reasonably, seek stability: maximizing control to minimize risks. However, there are from time to time some strange few that seem disinhibited by prudence, cajoled by propriety and harassed by convention. They cross live wires just to make a light. Some leave little more than a mess, most leave nothing at all. But in those exceedingly rare instances where the alignment of things is just so, these sparks of innovation provide new sources of energy that fuel incalculable inspiration, pushing and pulling us out of stagnations we likely did not recognize, and opening new horizons to explore.Wine has been fortunate to attract a share of radicals and lunatics sufficient to produce relevance over millennia, but they are by no means guaranteed. Some calls go unanswered. Imagine if Punk had not existed in response to Disco. Randall Grahm’s Kantian critique of Purely Pragmatic Winegrowing has reoriented the pursuit as infinite game, effectively setting the goalpost in a dimension that will take generations to fully understand.As everything only means whatever meaning we give, looking for it is the obligation we are afforded as (mostly) self-aware beings. That Randall works so hard to articulate the purpose of his actions is evidence that he is looking for it himself, and is itself an exercise to be taken seriously. However, his work has promulgated, in an industry that often struggles under the weight of its own self-seriousness, a rare sensibility of playful yet precise intent wherein seriousness is the only fatal error. We need more Randall Grahms in the world. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    2h 28m
  2. 19/09/2025

    Matt Hardin

    Matt Hardin is a sixth-generation Napa Valley farmer whose roots in viticulture trace back to 1849, when his family first began farming in Pope Valley. After earning his degree from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, he joined Barbour Vineyard Management, eventually becoming a partner, before launching his own company, Hardin Vineyard Management, in 2021. Today, he oversees some of Napa Valley’s most prestigious vineyard sites, farming vine by vine with a focus on sustainability, precision, and respect for terroir. In addition to his vineyard management work, Matt is a vintner and co-founder of several acclaimed wine brands. He is a partner in Caterwaul Wines, where he collaborates with winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown on Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from carefully chosen Napa Valley vineyards. He also owns Matthew Wallace Wines, a project that allows him to showcase the character of sites he farms under his own label. His family name is also tied to Hardin Wines, a Napa Valley Cabernet project that has earned a loyal following for its quality and approachability. Balancing heritage with innovation, Matt brings a deep respect for Napa’s farming traditions while pushing forward viticultural practices that protect the land for future generations. His reputation as both a vineyard manager and vintner reflects his belief that great wine begins with meticulous farming and a dedication to place. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    1h 25m
  3. 15/09/2025

    Robin Lail

    Robin Daniel Lail is a name is synonymous with heritage, excellence, and innovation in American winemaking. Born and raised among the vineyards of Inglenook, founded in 1879 by her great-granduncle, Gustave Niebaum, Robin was steeped early in the traditions of fine winemaking. As founder and owner of Lail Vineyards (established in 1995), she carries forward a family legacy rooted in one of California’s most storied wine estates. After earning her degree from Stanford University in 1962, Robin’s path led her into the wine world formally in 1977, where she began working under Robert Mondavi, who became a mentor. During her tenure, she played a central role in creating the first Auction Napa Valley, an event that continues to shape the region’s philanthropic and wine culture. In the early 1980s, Robin co-founded two influential wine estates: Dominus with Christian Moueix in 1982, and Merryvale Vineyards in 1983 with Bill Harlan. She served as President of Merryvale for twelve years, helping to establish it among Napa’s foremost producers. In 1995, alongside her daughters Erin and Shannon, Robin launched Lail Vineyards, a venture that unites her family’s deep traditions with a modern vision. Beyond her winemaking, Robin is celebrated for her role in building Napa Valley’s identity — through philanthropy, sustainable practices, and fostering community among vintners. She is honored not only for preserving her family’s legacy, but for embodying the belief that quality, authenticity, and respect for the land define what Napa wine can and should be. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    2h 9m
  4. 03/09/2025

    Richard Peterson

    Dr. Richard Peterson is one of California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemakers, blending scientific rigor with creative innovation to help shape the modern wine industry. Born in Iowa during the Great Depression, he went on to earn a Ph.D. in agricultural chemistry from UC Berkeley in 1958 before beginning a transformative career at E. & J. Gallo Winery as Research Director. In 1968, the legendary André Tchelistcheff recruited Peterson to Beaulieu Vineyards, where he served as Winemaker for six vintages. He later became CEO of The Monterey Vineyard and, in 1986, took the helm at Atlas Peak Vineyards in Napa Valley. Beyond leadership roles, Peterson was an inventor whose contributions became industry standards: he demonstrated that topping barrels was unnecessary if handled correctly, designed the ubiquitous steel barrel rack, and introduced the “bung-and-roll” method to prevent barrel bungs from drying out. His innovations reflected a philosophy he often called “common sense winemaking,” the title of his influential column in Wines & Vines magazine during the 1970s. Peterson also developed his own label, Richard G. Peterson Wines, focusing on Pinot Noir and Brut Rosé, and remained active in Napa Valley through consulting, teaching, and writing. In 2015, he published his autobiography The Winemaker, chronicling both his personal journey and the rebirth of California wine after Prohibition. His archives, preserved at the UC Davis Library, document a lifetime of curiosity, experimentation, and leadership. A visionary, Peterson’s legacy endures not only in the wineries he guided but in the technical practices that became integral to winemaking around the world. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    2h 34m
  5. 26/08/2025

    James Conaway

    James Conaway, born in Memphis, Tennessee, is an acclaimed author and journalist whose work has left an indelible mark on both American letters and the cultural history of wine country. Educated at the University of North Carolina, Southwestern at Memphis, and Stanford University, where he was a Wallace Stegner Fellow in creative writing, Conaway began his career as a reporter for the Times-Picayune in New Orleans, and his early experiences in the newsroom shaped the sharp observational style that would define his later books and essays. He went on to serve as a wine critic for the Washington Post and an editor at Harper’s Bazaar before dedicating himself to a life of freelance writing. Conaway is perhaps best known for his trilogy on Napa Valley: Napa: The Story of an American Eden (1990), The Far Side of Eden (2002), and Napa at Last Light (2018). Together, these works chronicle the transformation of Napa from a patchwork of small family farms to a global luxury destination, while also questioning the environmental and social costs of its rise. His candid portrayals of power struggles, land use battles, and the commercialization of wine earned him both acclaim and criticism within the wine industry. In addition to his books, Conaway has contributed essays and reportage to The New York Times Magazine, The Atlantic, Harper’s, The New Republic, Gourmet, Smithsonian, and National Geographic Traveler, among many others. His fiction includes The Big Easy, a novel drawn from his experiences as a crime reporter in New Orleans, and Nose, a satirical mystery set in Northern California’s wine country. Residing between Washington, D.C., and California, Conaway continues to write and reflect on the intersections of culture, landscape, and human ambition. His papers, including original Napa Valley notebooks, are archived at the UC Davis Wine Library, underscoring his lasting influence as one of the foremost chroniclers of America’s wine country and its broader environmental and cultural narratives. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    1h 12m
  6. 12/08/2025

    Lamberto Frescobaldi

    Lamberto Frescobaldi is the President of Marchesi Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s most historic and influential wine families, with a legacy that spans over 700 years and 30 generations. Born into this lineage of Tuscan nobility, Lamberto was immersed in the world of viticulture from an early age. He studied Agricultural Sciences at the University of Florence and later completed a Master’s degree in Viticulture at the University of California, Davis, equipping him with both traditional knowledge and modern scientific expertise. Under his leadership, the Frescobaldi group has expanded its portfolio while staying rooted in its commitment to terroir and authenticity. Lamberto has overseen the growth and innovation of iconic estates such as Tenuta Luce in Montalcino, Ornellaia in Bolgheri, and Gorgona—the only vineyard in the world run by inmates on a prison island, in partnership with the Italian government. His approach balances sustainability, social responsibility, and premium winemaking, and he has played a key role in reinforcing Tuscany’s global reputation for fine wine. Lamberto is known not only for his stewardship of the family business but also for his forward-thinking vision in the broader wine industry. A vocal advocate for environmental stewardship, he has implemented biodiversity programs, reduced chemical use in vineyards, and invested in renewable energy across Frescobaldi properties. With a rare combination of tradition and innovation, Lamberto Frescobaldi continues to shape the future of Italian wine while honoring the weight of his family’s extraordinary legacy. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    1h 7m
  7. 31/07/2025

    Jason Haas

    Jason Haas is a second‑generation proprietor of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, California, where he serves as Partner and General Manager. Raised immersed in the wine world, Haas accompanied his father, Robert Haas, the founder of Vineyard Brands and co‑founder of Tablas Creek, on numerous buying trips to Europe. Under his stewardship, Tablas Creek has continued to flourish as a benchmark for Rhône‑style wines in California. Haas has taken the winery’s sustainability mission to new heights, guiding it through certifications including biodynamic farming and, most notably, becoming the first U.S. winery to earn Regenerative Organic Certified status. In addition to his role at the winery, Haas has played influential leadership roles within the industry. He served as president of the Rhone Rangers, contributed on the boards of Free the Grapes and the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, and has been recognized by peers as the 2015 Paso Robles Wine Country Industry Person of the Year and the 2017 San Luis Obispo County Wine Industry Person of the Year. In 2022, Food & Wine Magazine honored him as a Drinks Innovator of the Year. Beyond the vineyards, Haas has established himself as a prolific writer and speaker. His articles have been published in Wine Business Monthly, Wines & Vines, Decanter, and others. As principal author of the Tablas Creek blog, which has been nominated eight times and won twice for Wine Blog Awards’ “Best Winery Blog”, he combines thoughtful commentary with a commitment to education and transparency. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ehlersestate.substack.com

    58 min

About

As the wine industry is in transition, it seems that many are scrambling for solutions. Taking a step back, winemaker Adam Casto is looking to define the problem. Speaking to a wide array of different industry perspectives, he aims to get to the heart of the issue from all angles. New episodes will be published on Tuesdays at Noon PST, with bonus episodes published on Thursdays. ehlersestate.substack.com