A Scottish Castle A Day

Bagtown Clans

A Scottish Castle A Day ascad.substack.com

  1. 28/10/2024

    Linlithgow Palace

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today, we are journeying to one of Scotland’s most regal and historic ruins: Linlithgow Palace. Nestled in the picturesque town of Linlithgow, West Lothian, just 15 miles west of Edinburgh, this majestic ruin was once the favored residence of the Stewart kings and queens and remains one of Scotland’s grandest royal palaces. The first records of Linlithgow date back to November 1301 when King Edward I of England, while enforcing John Balliol’s claim to the Scottish throne, used Linlithgow as a military base. Edward quickly recognized the site’s strategic importance, located on the main route between Edinburgh and Stirling. The English King oversaw the construction of a defensive fortification, although this early version was primarily built of wood and earth. During the siege of Stirling Castle in 1304, Linlithgow became a critical supply base. After the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, the town and its fort returned to Scottish control, marking the start of its royal legacy. In 1337, King David II granted the site to Sir John Cairns to prepare for the king’s arrival. The early structures, including a royal manor, were significantly repaired, and by 1343, King David held court there. However, the true transformation of Linlithgow Palace began after a catastrophic fire in 1424 devastated both the town and the royal residence. King James I seized the opportunity and embarked on rebuilding the palace, laying the foundation for what we see today. The construction of Linlithgow Palace as a royal residence continued through the reign of James I and his successors, each monarch leaving their mark on the design. James III (1460–1488) welcomed the exiled King Henry VI of England at the palace in the late 15th century. His son, James IV, further developed the palace into a modern Renaissance residence. He added the west range, completing the courtyard structure that still stands in ruins today. James IV’s marriage to Margaret Tudor in 1503 solidified Linlithgow’s importance as a royal residence. The palace was granted to her as a dower house, and it was here, in 1512, that their son, James V, was born. But perhaps Linlithgow’s most famous royal birth took place in December 1542, when Mary, Queen of Scots, was born in the palace. Mary’s birth marked Linlithgow as a site of profound historical importance, though she herself spent little time in the palace. Her mother, Mary of Guise, had previously compared Linlithgow favorably to the grand châteaux of France, praising its princely grandeur. The palace continued to be a favored residence of Scottish royalty through the reign of James VI, but it was already beginning to decline. In 1607, the north range collapsed, though James ordered its rebuilding in the Renaissance style, which was completed by 1624. Despite these efforts, the palace saw fewer royal visitors after the Union of the Crowns in 1603, when the court shifted to London. During the turbulent years of the 17th century, Linlithgow briefly became a military stronghold once again. In 1650, Oliver Cromwell spent the winter there, and in 1745, Bonnie Prince Charlie used it during his Jacobite campaign. However, its royal days were officially over, and following the disastrous fire set by the Duke of Cumberland’s troops in 1746, the palace was left roofless and abandoned. Today, Linlithgow Palace stands as a beautiful ruin, open to the skies but retaining much of its architectural splendor. The remains of the Great Hall, the ornate courtyard fountain, and the magnificent views over Linlithgow Loch are testament to its former glory. Historic Environment Scotland now manages the palace, and it remains a popular tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world to explore its halls, climb its towers, and imagine the life of Scottish monarchs who once walked its corridors. Though roofless, the palace has found new life in the arts. It has been featured in TV series such as Outlander, where its medieval and Renaissance atmosphere serves as a perfect backdrop for time-traveling romance. The palace also hosts the annual "Party at the Palace" music festival, which has become a beloved event, bringing modern life to the historic grounds. There are even whispers that Linlithgow might still have some royal residents—of the ghostly variety. Many say the specter of Mary of Guise haunts the palace halls, watching over the home where her daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots, was born. Linlithgow Palace is much more than just a ruin; it’s a place where Scotland’s history—its wars, its monarchs, its triumphs, and its tragedies—comes to life. Whether you’re exploring its stone passages or looking out over the tranquil Linlithgow Loch, the palace continues to capture the imagination of all who visit. Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about the rich history of Linlithgow Palace. Be sure to join us again tomorrow as we journey to another one of Scotland’s legendary castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    7 min

  2. 22/10/2024

    Toward Castle

    Welcome back to A Scottish Castle A Day, brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we delve into the turbulent history of Toward Castle, the ancestral seat of Clan Lamont. Nestled on the Cowal Peninsula in Argyll and Bute, this castle has borne witness to moments of grandeur, royal visits, and tragedy. As we explore its story, we uncover not only the history of the Lamonts but also the wider conflicts that shaped the Scottish Highlands. Toward Castle, or Caisteal an Toll Àird in Gaelic, is a site with deep roots in Scottish history. The Lamonts, originally styled “of Inveryne,” came into possession of the lands surrounding Toward at the southern tip of the Cowal Peninsula through a charter granted in 1472. This charter transformed their holdings into a barony, cementing their influence in the region. However, it was Sir John Lamont, the 10th Chief, who further expanded the clan’s presence by purchasing more land from James V in 1535. One of the most storied events in Toward Castle’s history took place in 1563 when Sir John hosted none other than Mary, Queen of Scots. In anticipation of her visit, the castle underwent hasty renovations—what had once been a simple keep with thick defensive walls was expanded to include rooms and a great hall. Legend has it that before leaving Toward, Mary planted a tree on the grounds, which stood for centuries until it was felled in 1818. The wood from this tree was crafted into a crown, which was later presented to the 10th Duke of Hamilton and still resides in Dungravel in Lanarkshire. But Toward Castle was more than just a royal stopover. In 1579, it hosted an allegiance pact between the Lamonts and the mighty Clan MacDonald, overseen by the Lord of the Isles. It must have been a sight to behold: birlinns—traditional Highland longships—beached on the shore while the castle, standing tall with its battlements, filled with the sounds of bagpipes, harps, and revelry. The castle became a cultural and political hub for the Lamonts, a place where bards and poets gathered, and where alliances were made and celebrated with feasting and wine. However, the fortune of the Lamonts, like many Highland clans, would take a dark turn during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms in the 17th century. Sir John Lamont, the 14th chief, found himself in a precarious position during the conflict between the Royalists and the Covenanters. Though King Charles II had ordered Lamont to lay down his arms, he was besieged by a force of Campbells led by Campbell of Ardkinglas—who was, ironically, the brother of Lady Lamont. For two weeks, Toward Castle endured a brutal siege. The Lamonts, cut off by land and sea, held out against cannon fire until Sir John agreed to parlay. Under the terms of surrender, the Lamonts were promised safe passage, but the Campbells had other plans. Declaring, “no capitulations should be kept with traitors to God and His covenant,” the Campbells broke their promise, capturing and slaughtering the Lamont men, women, and children. In Dunoon, over 200 Lamont men and boys were executed, marking one of the most brutal massacres in Clan history. Toward Castle was pillaged and burned, leaving it in ruins, and the clan’s chief was taken prisoner. In a moment of courage, Sir John’s sister, Isobel Lamont, hid the signed capitulation document in her hair, smuggling it out of the castle. The massacre at Toward became one of the charges leveled against Archibald Campbell, the 1st Marquess of Argyll, who was executed in 1661. The Lamonts, who had been one of the most powerful clans in Argyll, never fully recovered from the devastation wrought by the Campbells. After the destruction of Toward Castle, the Lamonts moved their residence to Ardlamont, and the ruined stronghold was sold in 1809 to Kirkman Finlay, a Glasgow merchant and former Lord Provost. In 1820, Finlay built a new residence, Castle Toward, just 500 meters from the old castle ruins. Designed in the Gothic Revival style by David Hamilton, this country house replaced the medieval stronghold and became the new symbol of Toward. By the 20th century, the castle had undergone significant renovations, including ornate Italian plasterwork and grand landscaping. It was a luxurious estate, far removed from the ancient fortress that once housed the Lamonts. During World War II, Castle Toward played a unique role as HMS Brontosaurus, a training center for amphibious landings. Soldiers and officers trained on nearby beaches in preparation for D-Day. After the war, the castle became an outdoor education center, providing a different kind of training for school children in Glasgow and beyond. Though the original Toward Castle stands in ruins, its history is far from forgotten. Now managed by the Clan Lamont Society, it remains a place of pilgrimage for those connected to the clan and for history enthusiasts drawn to its storied past. Castle Toward, the 19th-century mansion, was sold to private owners in 2016, and while its future remains uncertain, its past is indelibly linked to the legacy of the Lamonts. Today, Toward Castle is more than just a ruin on the Cowal Peninsula—it’s a testament to the resilience of a clan, the intrigue of Scotland’s royal history, and the devastating consequences of clan warfare. For those who visit, the stones of Toward whisper stories of glory, betrayal, and survival. Thank you for joining us on this episode of A Scottish Castle A Day. I’m Colin MacDonald, and I hope you’ll join us tomorrow as we uncover the fascinating tales behind another of Scotland’s historic castles. Until then, Slán go fóill. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    7 min

  3. 21/10/2024

    Eilean Donan Castle

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re delving into one of the most iconic castles in all of Scotland—Eilean Donan. Nestled on a rocky promontory where three sea lochs—Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh—meet, this stunning stronghold has captured imaginations for centuries. Eilean Donan is more than just a picture-perfect location; it’s a castle steeped in history, legend, and the dramatic power struggles of the Highlands. So let’s set the stage and step back in time to uncover the stories behind this legendary fortress. The island where Eilean Donan Castle now stands has a rich history that stretches back long before the first stone was laid. Evidence of an ancient Pictish fort was discovered during excavations, hinting at the strategic importance of this location as far back as the Iron Age. Around 600 AD, the island became the home of St. Donan, a religious hermit who sought solitude among the rugged landscape. It’s from him that Eilean Donan—meaning "Island of Donan"—takes its name. The first fortified castle on the island was built during the reign of Alexander II, sometime between 1214 and 1250. This was a period of significant change for Scotland, as the kingdom was solidifying its territories and defending against Norse incursions from the west. In fact, Eilean Donan’s early role was as a defensive outpost against Viking raids, a threat that loomed large over the Scottish isles during the medieval period. The curtain wall, constructed in the 13th century, enclosed most of the island and created a formidable defense. Eilean Donan’s fortunes shifted in 1263 after the Battle of Largs, when Alexander III defeated the forces of the Norwegian king, Hákon IV. As a reward for his services in this critical battle, the castle was granted to Colin Fitzgerald, son of the Earl of Desmond and Kildare. Colin’s descendants would eventually form Clan MacKenzie, and Eilean Donan would become their most prized stronghold for centuries. One of the most famous legends surrounding the castle involves none other than Robert the Bruce. In the early 14th century, when Bruce was fleeing from English forces, it is said that he found refuge at Eilean Donan, sheltered by John MacKenzie, the second of Kintail. This act of loyalty would later be repaid when Bruce became king, further solidifying the bond between the crown and Clan MacKenzie. By the 16th century, the MacRaes had risen to prominence as the loyal bodyguards of the MacKenzie chiefs, earning the nickname "MacKenzie’s Coat of Mail." In 1509, they became the castle’s constables, cementing their place in the history of Eilean Donan. As political turmoil gripped the Highlands, the MacRaes played a critical role in defending the castle and the surrounding lands. Eilean Donan, however, was not immune to the sweeping forces of history. The castle became embroiled in the Jacobite uprisings of the 18th century, which sought to restore the exiled Stuart monarchy to the thrones of England, Scotland, and Ireland. In 1719, during the brief but significant Jacobite Rebellion, the castle served as a base for Spanish forces supporting the Jacobites. This turned out to be a disastrous decision. On May 10, 1719, three English warships—the Worcester, Enterprise, and Flamborough—opened fire on Eilean Donan, bombarding it into submission. A detachment of Royal Navy marines landed on the island, discovered barrels of gunpowder within the castle, and promptly destroyed the remaining walls. For the next 200 years, the castle lay in ruins, a silent witness to the collapse of Highland resistance. Yet, Eilean Donan’s story didn’t end there. In 1912, Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap embarked on a labor of love to restore the castle to its former glory. Guided by historical plans and local tradition, and aided by Farquhar MacRae, who had a vision of the castle restored, the work took nearly 20 years to complete. By 1932, Eilean Donan stood once more, not as a ruined relic, but as a magnificent fortress blending medieval authenticity with 20th-century craftsmanship. It’s this restored version of the castle that has become an enduring symbol of Scotland’s cultural heritage, appearing in countless films, postcards, and photographs. Today, Eilean Donan is one of Scotland’s most visited and photographed landmarks, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. The arched stone bridge that connects the island to the mainland, the breathtaking views over the sea lochs, and the castle’s towering silhouette against the Highland backdrop combine to make it a truly iconic sight. Whether you're fascinated by medieval architecture, clan history, or the allure of the Jacobite risings, Eilean Donan has something for everyone. And as you walk through its halls or stand by its thick stone walls, it’s impossible not to feel the presence of the many generations who have lived, fought, and died within its embrace. Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." I hope you’ve enjoyed our journey through the rich history of Eilean Donan. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we explore another one of Scotland’s captivating castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and until next time, slán go fóill! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    7 min

  4. 20/10/2024

    Castle Stalker

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re heading to the west coast of Scotland, to the shimmering waters of Loch Laich, where one of the most iconic castles in all of Scotland stands tall: Castle Stalker. Rising dramatically from a tiny islet, this stunning medieval stronghold offers more than just breathtaking views—it’s a portal into centuries of Highland history, clan feuds, and royal connections. So, grab your walking boots and let's take a journey through time to uncover the remarkable story of Castle Stalker. Castle Stalker—whose name originates from the Gaelic "Stalcaire," meaning hunter or falconer—has a history deeply intertwined with two of Scotland’s most notable clans: the MacDougalls and the Stewarts of Appin. Its story begins as far back as 1320 when this very site was believed to have hosted a simple fortified building, known as a fortalice, constructed by the MacDougalls when they were the powerful Lords of Lorn. This was a time of great upheaval in Scotland, as the MacDougalls had recently lost their title following their defeat by Robert the Bruce at the Battle of Brander Pass in 1308. However, they managed to regain their influence for a brief period, and Castle Stalker became one of their key strongholds. But, like the ever-shifting tides that surround the castle, power in the Highlands was also in constant flux. In 1388, the Lordship of Lorn passed from the MacDougalls to the Stewarts—a change that would shape the future of Castle Stalker. It was around this time that the castle we see today was likely built in its present form by Sir John Stewart, the Lord of Lorn. Now, Sir John was a man with ambitions both on and off the battlefield. He fathered an illegitimate son in 1446, and it’s believed he constructed Castle Stalker as a residence around this time. The drama in Sir John's life, however, didn’t end with castle-building. In 1463, while attempting to legitimize his son through marriage, Sir John was murdered by Alan MacCoul, a renegade from the MacDougall clan. But in true Highland fashion, vengeance was swift and bloody. Sir John's son, Dugald, went on to kill MacCoul at the Battle of Stalc, just across the water from Castle Stalker. This victory not only cemented Dugald as the First Chief of the Stewarts of Appin but also solidified the castle’s place as a seat of power. One of the most colorful chapters in Castle Stalker’s story involves none other than King James IV of Scotland, who was related to the Stewarts of Appin. The King, known for his love of hunting and hawking, frequently visited Castle Stalker in the late 15th century, using it as a base for his excursions into the Highlands. During his stays, it’s believed that upgrades were made to the castle, possibly adding the top floor and roof. It’s said that the royal arms above the front door may even date back to this period, a lasting reminder of the castle’s connection to Scotland’s monarchy. Yet, Castle Stalker’s history is not just about royal visits—it’s also about bitter clan rivalries. In 1520, Sir Alexander Stewart of Invernahyle, a relative of the Stewarts of Appin, was murdered by the Campbells while fishing near the castle. This gruesome act sparked a wave of revenge, with the Stewarts, led by the formidable Donald "nan Ord" Stewart, launching attacks on the Campbells. Donald, a legendary figure known for his incredible strength—rumor has it he could wield a blacksmith’s hammer in each hand—became a key player in the Stewart-Campbell feud, and his actions would resonate for generations. Fast forward to the 17th century, and the fate of Castle Stalker would take another dramatic turn—this time due to a drunken wager. In around 1620, Duncan Stewart, the 7th Chief of Appin, lost the castle to the Campbells of Airds in a bet involving an eight-oared boat. Such a loss didn’t sit well with the Stewarts, and they managed to reclaim the castle in 1689, only to lose it again after a prolonged siege by the Campbells. The ebb and flow of control between these clans became a recurring theme, with each trying to hold onto this strategic fortress. During the Jacobite rising of 1745, Castle Stalker found itself back in the spotlight, held by the Campbells and garrisoned with government troops. Despite their loyalty to Prince Charles, the Stewarts of Appin—whose regiment fought valiantly in the Jacobite cause—were unable to retake the castle. Its thick walls proved too strong for their small cannons, and the castle remained a vital link for government forces throughout the uprising. Following the disastrous defeat at Culloden, the castle became a place where Highlanders were forced to surrender their weapons, marking the end of an era for the clans. By the late 18th century, the Campbells had abandoned Castle Stalker, leaving it to fall into ruin. Its roof collapsed, and it became little more than a storehouse. However, in 1908, the castle’s story took a hopeful turn when it was purchased by Charles Stewart of Achara, who carried out basic preservation work to save it from further decay. The most significant restoration, however, came in 1965 when Lt. Col. D. R. Stewart Allward took over and, with the help of family and friends, spent a decade painstakingly restoring the castle to its former glory. Today, Castle Stalker stands as one of the best-preserved medieval tower houses in Scotland, its walls now fully habitable thanks to the dedication of Lt. Col. Allward. It’s a fitting legacy for a castle that has seen so much history, from clan battles to royal hunts, and even a brief appearance in the world of cinema—Monty Python fans may recognize it as "The Castle Aaaaarrrrrrggghhh" from Monty Python and the Holy Grail. So, whether you're a history buff, a fan of Highland landscapes, or simply someone who loves a good clan feud, Castle Stalker offers something for everyone. Its rugged beauty, perched on its tiny islet, serves as a reminder of Scotland’s turbulent past and the resilience of those who fought to hold it. Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed unraveling the rich history of Castle Stalker. Tune in tomorrow as we journey to another of Scotland’s remarkable castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and until then, Slán go fóill! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    8 min

  5. 18/10/2024

    Kinloch Castle

    Welcome back to “A Scottish Castle, A Day,” brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re heading to the rugged Isle of Rum, one of the remote and mystical Small Isles off the west coast of Scotland, to explore the grand, eccentric, and controversial Kinloch Castle. This Edwardian mansion, built by industrialist Sir George Bullough, stands as a monument to a bygone era of extreme wealth, indulgence, and the opulent lifestyle of the British elite. Its story is a fascinating mix of luxury, invention, and controversy, and it remains one of the most enigmatic structures in the Scottish Highlands. To understand the grandeur of Kinloch Castle, we must first go back to the 19th century, to the origins of the Bullough family’s fortune. George Bullough inherited the Isle of Rum in 1891, following the death of his father, John Bullough. John was a self-made man, a Lancashire textile magnate who co-founded Howard & Bullough, a manufacturing company that played a key role in the industrial revolution. The company’s vast Globe Works in Accrington employed half of the town’s population at its height, and the Bulloughs quickly became one of the wealthiest families in Britain. The Isle of Rum entered the Bullough family’s story in 1879 when John Bullough, seeking a Highland retreat for hunting, leased the island as a shooting estate. A few years later, he purchased the entire island for £35,000, marking the beginning of the family’s connection to this remote Scottish isle. The estate came complete with the modest Kinloch House, a building constructed in the 1820s by Dr. Lachlan McLean, who had cleared the island’s inhabitants as part of the infamous Highland Clearances. But after John’s death, young George Bullough was not content with the simplicity of Kinloch House. By 1897, he embarked on a grand vision, commissioning the construction of Kinloch Castle, a stately home that would embody the height of Edwardian luxury and excess. Employing 300 men, most of them brought over from Lancashire and the nearby island of Eigg, construction on the castle began. Built from red sandstone quarried on the Isle of Arran, the castle rose out of the rugged landscape of Rum, overlooking the tranquil waters of Loch Scresort. The lavishness of Kinloch Castle knew no bounds. Inside, it was filled with extravagant furnishings and cutting-edge technology, some of which still amazes visitors today. Bullough had installed his own hydroelectric power plant, ensuring that his castle was one of the few places in Scotland with electric lighting at the time. Central heating, double glazing, air conditioning, and a state-of-the-art telephone system were all installed, making the castle a technological marvel of its day. And the crown jewel of the home’s indulgent features? An orchestrion—a mechanical music machine that could simulate the sound of an entire orchestra, offering entertainment for guests without the need for live musicians. Bullough’s penchant for eccentricity didn’t stop at technology. His personal menagerie at the castle included pet alligators, giant turtles, and, in a now-lost conservatory, hummingbirds. The gardens surrounding Kinloch Castle were just as grandiose, with formal layouts, exotic plantings, and even a walled garden briefly home to alligators. The landscaping required 250,000 tonnes of soil to be imported from Ayrshire, a staggering feat of Victorian engineering and excess. For nearly four decades, Kinloch Castle was the site of lavish parties, hunting excursions, and high society gatherings. George Bullough, later knighted for his contributions during the Boer War, hosted an array of celebrities, nobility, and even royalty. His half-brother Ian’s wife, Lily Elsie, was a star of Edwardian theater and brought an extra dash of glamour to the events hosted on Rum. But despite its grandeur, Kinloch Castle became a symbol of the excesses of the British aristocracy, a controversial monument to wealth in an era when the gap between rich and poor was starkly visible. By the time George Bullough passed away in 1939, the heyday of Kinloch Castle had long faded. The Bullough family’s estate went into trusteeship, and by the late 1950s, the island and castle were sold to the government agency responsible for natural heritage, now known as NatureScot. The castle and the island of Rum were designated a National Nature Reserve, but the castle itself began to fall into disrepair. In recent decades, efforts have been made to save this crumbling piece of history. In 1996, the Kinloch Castle Friends Association was formed to help preserve the building and its contents. In 2003, Kinloch Castle featured on the BBC series Restoration, narrowly missing out on a £3 million grant to fund much-needed repairs. Despite this setback, the castle attracted the attention of Prince Charles, leading to ongoing discussions about how best to preserve this unique structure. Today, Kinloch Castle still stands, though its future remains uncertain. Once operated as a hostel, part of the castle is open for tours, giving visitors a glimpse into the extravagant lifestyle of its former inhabitants. The Friends Association continues its efforts to secure funding for restoration, but as time passes, the challenges grow. Kinloch Castle is a Category A listed building, a testament to a lost age of opulence and indulgence, but also a reminder of the costs of maintaining such vast estates in a changing world. Whether it can be saved or not, Kinloch Castle’s story is one of ambition, excess, and the fleeting nature of wealth and power. From its cutting-edge conveniences to its exotic gardens, it’s a place that captured the imagination of all who visited. Yet, as with many grand houses of its era, it now stands at a crossroads, its survival dependent on the dedication of those who wish to preserve its remarkable legacy. Thank you for joining us on this episode of “A Scottish Castle, A Day.” I hope you’ve enjoyed this journey into the fascinating and extravagant world of Kinloch Castle. Join me tomorrow as we uncover the secrets behind another of Scotland’s architectural treasures. Slán go fóill, and until next time, keep exploring! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    8 min

  6. 17/10/2024

    Rosslyn Castle

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re diving into one of Scotland’s most storied and atmospheric fortresses: Rosslyn Castle. Standing proudly in the scenic village of Roslin, just a stone’s throw from the world-famous Rosslyn Chapel, this castle holds an incredible legacy intertwined with Scotland’s feudal history, architectural innovation, and, of course, a fair share of mystery. Rosslyn Castle has three great attractions: its wonderful Chapel, the ancient Castle itself, and its breathtaking valley. After visiting the intricate and world-renowned Rosslyn Chapel, we now turn our attention to the Castle—a site of rich history and once one of the most important strongholds in Scotland. The castle is dramatically perched on a rocky promontory, surrounded on three sides by the winding waters of the River North Esk. The approach to Rosslyn Castle is itself a journey back in time. You enter via a 50-foot-high stone bridge that spans what was once a deep ravine, crossed originally by a drawbridge. Below, the river flows, having long carved this striking landscape into a natural fortress. This impressive entry sets the tone for what lies ahead—a castle steeped in grandeur, history, and a bit of the eerie charm that only such ancient ruins can evoke. The first records of a fortified structure on this site date back to the early 14th century when the powerful Sinclair family, Earls of Caithness and Barons of Roslin, claimed the land. The Sinclairs, a family of Norman origin, have held Rosslyn since 1280, and their deep connections to Scottish history make the castle’s story all the richer. The castle’s present ruins, however, date primarily from later centuries, as Rosslyn was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. Its strategic position near the site of the Battle of Roslin—where in 1303, the Scots triumphed over the English—ensured the castle would always be a point of both defense and contention. As you pass through the ruined gatehouse and cross the narrow bridge, you are greeted by the remnants of the Lantern or Lamp Tower at the northeast corner, built around 1304, shortly after that decisive battle. Some historians suggest there may have been an even earlier structure here, but it is clear that by the 14th century, Rosslyn was taking its present shape. What remains of this early construction still speaks to the castle’s role as a military stronghold. The dungeon, located in the southwest corner and known as "The Great Dungeon," was erected around 1390 by Sir Henry Sinclair, the second Prince of Orkney. This tower, rising five stories high, once dominated the landscape, fortified by walls over nine feet thick. In the medieval period, this part of the castle was essential for defense, but also for demonstrating the Sinclairs' power and wealth. Sir Henry’s son, Sir William Sinclair, who founded the nearby Rosslyn Chapel in 1446, further expanded and beautified the castle. The Rosslyn of Sir William’s time was a place of both luxury and fortification. According to Father Hay, the 17th-century Sinclair historian, Sir William lived in “regal magnificence,” served on gold and silver, surrounded by nobles like Lord Dirltone, who acted as Master of the Household, and Lord Borthwick as his Cupbearer. The castle would have been filled with the bustle of attendants, soldiers, and skilled craftsmen, with its grand halls hung with richly embroidered tapestries, and its grounds hosting a veritable army of courtiers. But this grandeur wasn’t without its interruptions. In 1452, a domestic fire caused significant damage to the castle, but quick-thinking courtiers managed to save the Earl’s precious charters and manuscripts by lowering them out of the windows to safety. Rebuilding followed, only for the castle to face even greater destruction in 1544 during the War of the Rough Wooing, when Henry VIII’s forces razed the castle in retaliation for Scotland’s refusal to allow a marriage between his son, Edward VI, and the infant Queen of Scots, Mary. Though the keep was nearly destroyed, the resilient Sinclairs rebuilt once again, adding the grand east range, which still partially stands today. Perhaps most striking is the five-story east range of the castle, cut directly into the rock face. Built during the late 16th century, its grandeur is matched by its functionality, with lower floors serving as kitchens and service rooms, while the upper floors were home to the lavishly appointed principal chambers. The grand hall of Rosslyn Castle, once filled with the sound of banquets, music, and laughter, has since been divided, though the main fireplace, carved with the initials of William Sinclair and his wife Jean Edmonstone, still stands as a testament to their legacy. One particularly intriguing feature of Rosslyn Castle is its connection to the arts and culture. The castle housed a scriptorium in the 15th century, where manuscripts were painstakingly copied and illuminated. Several manuscripts from this period survive today in the National Library of Scotland, including the Rosslyn-Hay manuscript, considered one of the earliest examples of Scots prose. Though Rosslyn Castle was repeatedly damaged and rebuilt, it remained a Sinclair stronghold well into the 17th century. Even the artillery of Oliver Cromwell’s forces during the siege of 1650, which battered much of the castle, couldn’t break the family’s ties to the land. The Sinclairs continued to rebuild and occupy parts of the castle, and in more recent times, the castle’s east range has been restored as holiday accommodation, offering a unique way to experience the history and splendor of Rosslyn firsthand. Whether you visit Rosslyn for its stunning scenery, to explore the ruins, or to steep yourself in the history that permeates every stone, the castle offers a window into the fascinating legacy of one of Scotland’s most prominent noble families. From the ravages of fire and war to the refinement of its halls and towers, Rosslyn Castle is a symbol of resilience and nobility in the heart of the Scottish Lowlands. Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we uncover more of the stories behind Scotland’s most iconic castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    8 min

  7. 16/10/2024

    Dirleton Castle

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we journey to East Lothian, where the yellow towers of Dirleton Castle stand high on a rocky outcrop, just a few miles west of North Berwick. As one of Scotland’s oldest surviving castles, Dirleton has seen its fair share of Scottish history, from Norman knights and English invaders to clan feuds and sieges during the English Civil War. Dirleton Castle is a striking fortress whose imposing silhouette stands out, surrounded by lush, beautifully maintained gardens. But don't let the idyllic setting fool you—this romantic site has a history of violence and upheaval, making it much more than just a picturesque ruin. The original structure was built in the 13th century by the de Vaux family, Anglo-Norman knights invited to Scotland by King David I. It has since been expanded, destroyed, rebuilt, and abandoned, each phase of its history leaving a mark on the stone walls. The de Vaux family, originally from Rouen, France, began construction of Dirleton Castle around 1225 under the leadership of John de Vaux, whose family had been granted the barony of Dirleton. The site of the castle was carefully chosen—built on a rocky knoll and surrounded by marshland and a deep moat, Dirleton’s natural defenses made it a formidable stronghold. The castle's original layout featured a series of round and square towers arranged around the site, their placement dictated by the natural contours of the rock. The most notable of these towers was the keep, still largely intact today, which offered both a defensive position and living quarters for the lord and his family. Dirleton Castle also served an important strategic purpose. Perched on the agricultural lands of East Lothian, it guarded the coastal routes leading to Edinburgh from the south, making it a prime target during periods of conflict. And conflict there was, especially during the Wars of Scottish Independence. Dirleton played a key role during Edward I of England's invasion of Scotland. In 1298, English forces, under the command of Bishop Antony Bek, besieged the castle, which held out for months until Edward's victory at the Battle of Falkirk allowed for the deployment of siege engines. The mighty walls of Dirleton finally fell, and the English occupied the fortress for years. It wasn’t until Robert the Bruce came to power that the Scots regained control. As a measure to prevent future English use, the castle’s towers were "slighted," or deliberately demolished to make the fortress uninhabitable. But Dirleton Castle would not remain in ruins for long. In 1350, the Haliburton family came into possession of the castle when John Haliburton married the de Vaux heiress. Under the Haliburtons, Dirleton saw a massive phase of reconstruction. A new gatehouse, a great hall, and vaulted kitchens were added, using the stumps of the ruined 13th-century towers as foundations. The Haliburtons transformed the castle into one of the finest noble residences in Scotland, blending defensive military architecture with the emerging trend of more comfortable living spaces. The next chapter in Dirleton’s history came in the 16th century when the castle passed to the Ruthven family. This period saw not just architectural but also landscape changes, as the Ruthvens added a walled garden outside the castle walls, one of the first of its kind in Scotland. The Ruthvens also constructed the Ruthven Range, a residential building that brought additional comfort to the inner courtyard. However, their time at Dirleton was marked by controversy, as the Ruthvens became embroiled in several political plots. The most notorious of these was the Gowrie Conspiracy in 1600, in which John Ruthven, 3rd Earl of Gowrie, was accused of plotting to assassinate King James VI. Following the conspiracy, the Ruthvens were executed, and their lands, including Dirleton, were forfeited to the Crown. By 1650, Dirleton once again found itself embroiled in conflict—this time during the Third English Civil War. A group of Scottish moss-troopers—essentially guerrilla fighters—were using Dirleton as a base to harass English forces under Oliver Cromwell. Cromwell’s army retaliated, bombarding the castle and breaching its walls with mortars. After capturing Dirleton, Cromwell's troops dismantled much of what was left, leaving the castle in ruins once again. By the late 17th century, Dirleton Castle had been largely abandoned. In 1663, it was purchased by the Nisbet family, who chose to build a new, more comfortable manor at Archerfield nearby. For a time, the castle became a quarry, with local builders taking stone from the ruins to construct cottages and walls. However, the Nisbets maintained the gardens, preserving some of the beauty that had once surrounded the fortress. The garden's history stretches back to the 16th century, but what visitors see today is largely a 20th-century reimagining, including a Victorian herbaceous border that holds the Guinness World Record as the longest in the world. In 1923, Dirleton Castle was placed into state care, and since then, Historic Environment Scotland has worked to maintain the ruins and the stunning gardens that surround them. Visitors today can explore the well-preserved dungeons, kitchens, and gatehouse, and imagine life in a medieval fortress that stood at the heart of some of Scotland's most tumultuous times. Whether you're interested in its military history, the romantic tales of the Ruthvens, or simply want to take in the breathtaking gardens, Dirleton Castle offers something for every visitor. Its yellow sandstone towers, standing tall against the lush greenery of East Lothian, are a reminder of the fortress's long and eventful history—a history that continues to captivate those who visit today. Thanks for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." Be sure to tune in next time, when we’ll explore another hidden gem in Scotland’s long and storied landscape. I'm Colin MacDonald, and until then, Slán go fóill! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    7 min

  8. 15/10/2024

    Edinburgh Castle

    Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we venture into the heart of Scotland’s capital to explore Edinburgh Castle, one of the most iconic fortresses in the world. Perched high atop Castle Rock, a volcanic crag rising 130 meters above sea level, Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline, offering breathtaking views of the city and the surrounding landscape. But it is much more than just a stunning landmark—it is a site rich in history, having played a pivotal role in shaping Scotland’s destiny over centuries. Let’s start by talking about the geological marvel that is Castle Rock. Around 350 million years ago, during the Carboniferous period, volcanic activity forged this solid mass of dolerite, a type of basalt, which stood resilient as the glaciers carved out the surrounding landscape. The defensive advantages were obvious—sheer cliffs on three sides made it almost impenetrable, with only a gentle slope on the eastern side providing access to the fortress. Early human habitation likely dates back to the Bronze or Iron Age, and archaeological evidence suggests it has been occupied for over 2,000 years, making it one of the longest continually inhabited sites in Scotland. The castle as we know it began to take shape during the reign of Malcolm III (1058-1093). His son, King David I, is credited with building one of its earliest surviving structures—St. Margaret’s Chapel, a small yet charming Romanesque building that remains the oldest standing structure in Edinburgh. Named after his mother, Saint Margaret of Scotland, the chapel provides a rare glimpse into Scotland’s medieval religious architecture and offers a quiet, sacred space amidst the imposing military fortifications. Fast forward to the late 13th century, and Edinburgh Castle became the center of fierce military conflicts. In 1296, Edward I of England, known as "Hammer of the Scots," stormed the castle during his invasion of Scotland. This marked the beginning of the Wars of Scottish Independence. Just 18 years later, in 1314, the castle was retaken in dramatic fashion by Sir Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, and his small force of men who scaled the cliffs and surprised the English garrison. Robert the Bruce, after his victory at Bannockburn, ordered the castle to be destroyed to prevent its future use by the English, though it was rebuilt in the following decades. During the centuries that followed, Edinburgh Castle stood witness to countless sieges, battles, and political machinations. In 1440, one of the most infamous events in its history unfolded—The Black Dinner. Sir William Crichton, keeper of the castle, invited the young 6th Earl of Douglas and his brother to dine with the king. After the feast, a bull’s head—a symbol of death—was presented, and the two boys were dragged outside and beheaded. This event is believed to have inspired the "Red Wedding" in George R.R. Martin’s Game of Thrones. In the 16th century, the castle became the epicenter of another siege, known as the Lang Siege (1571-73), when the forces loyal to Mary, Queen of Scots, held out against the supporters of her son, James VI. Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange, a staunch supporter of Mary, held the castle but was eventually forced to surrender after English cannons bombarded it relentlessly, leaving much of the medieval defenses in ruins. One of the most famous additions to the castle in the aftermath of this siege is the Half Moon Battery, an imposing artillery defense built over the remains of David’s Tower, destroyed during the Lang Siege. The battery still stands today, its thick walls a testament to Scotland’s turbulent military history. Nearby, visitors can find Mons Meg, a gigantic 15th-century siege cannon that could fire massive stone balls over two miles. Although its military use was short-lived—Mons Meg’s barrel famously burst during a ceremonial firing in 1681—it remains an awe-inspiring symbol of medieval warfare. Yet, the castle is not only about military might. In the Crown Room, visitors can view the Honours of Scotland, or Scotland’s Crown Jewels, including the crown, scepter, and sword of state, as well as the Stone of Destiny, which was used in the coronation of Scottish and later English monarchs. These treasures, hidden away during Cromwell’s rule, were rediscovered in 1818 by Sir Walter Scott and are now on proud display, offering a glimpse into Scotland’s regal heritage. Edinburgh Castle is also home to the Scottish National War Memorial, a solemn tribute to the Scots who fought and died in the First and Second World Wars, and the National War Museum, showcasing centuries of Scotland’s military history. Today, this majestic fortress, cared for by Historic Environment Scotland, is the country’s most-visited tourist attraction, drawing over two million visitors each year. It remains an active symbol of Scotland’s storied past, hosting the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo every summer, where the sound of bagpipes fills the air against the castle’s illuminated backdrop. Edinburgh Castle is not just a monument of stone and mortar but a living embodiment of Scotland’s fierce independence, resilience, and cultural pride. Whether you’re wandering through its ancient halls, gazing up at its towering battlements, or marveling at the views from its lofty heights, Edinburgh Castle offers a unique connection to Scotland’s past that no visitor will soon forget. Thank you for joining us on today’s journey through the history of Edinburgh Castle. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we explore another remarkable Scottish castle. Until then, I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

    7 min
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