That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia
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A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

  1. Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing

    13 APR

    Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing

    Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches. Guest links: Sam’s Instagram Guitar Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old 7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing 9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure? 12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits 16:51 - Rough 2025 season 22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy 26:37 - Being a short king 31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings? 35:41 - Training with the French team 37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach? 41:21 - Training only with climbing 45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris 47:05 - Secrets to French slab 51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing? 56:06 - Mental game 58:41 - 2026 goals 1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar? 1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing? 1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength? 1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine? 1:15:56 - Where to find Sam

    1 u 17 m
  2. Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting

    30 MRT

    Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting

    Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL. Guest links: Kiter’s Website Jackie’s Instagram Pro Climbing League Website Kilter Youtube Reference links: Underrated hold Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL 5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option 7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter 15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps 20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter? 22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team? 28:46 - What made setting different for PCL 32:09 - How to get separation 36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy? 41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?! 43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors 51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown 58:24 - Different competition strategies 1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup? 1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup? 1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future? 1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder? 1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks? 1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold? 1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours 1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!

    1 u 30 m
  3. Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing

    16 MRT

    Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing

    Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters! Guest links: Mickael’s Instagram Reference links: Climbing with Jonathan Sin Video Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa 7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC 13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor 24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present 28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight 30:51 - Why he still chose climbing 34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC? 38:33 - The goal: be rich 45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders 53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever 1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training 1:06:12 - How to work on your technique 1:11:47 - The secret to French slab 1:14:28 - Why he trains alone 1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing 1:25:44 - His future in climbing? 1:31:01 - New climbing goal 1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up? 1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like? 1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured? 1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael

    1 u 46 m
  4. Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

    23 FEB

    Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

    Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics. Guest links: Mo’s Instagram Mo’s Website Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym 3:28 - The 'stump' impairment 7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing 13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama 28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now 29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027 30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications 32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing 35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping" 38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics 42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old 46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics? 48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves 50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump? 52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents 58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory? 1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story? 1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo

    1 u 9 m
  5. Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

    2 FEB

    Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

    Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches. Guest links: Rachel’s Instagram Rachel’s Youtube Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs 4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete 8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance 13:46 - Becoming a coach 15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior? 20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition 23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches 31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches? 34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches! 40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style 43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness... 45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques? 50:17 - Climbing goals 53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics? 56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad? 58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes? 1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches? 1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches? 1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel

    1 u 14 m
  6. Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

    19 JAN

    Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

    Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING. Guest links: Emma’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:11 - My annual stretching resolution 5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?! 9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing 11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit 14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja 16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior? 17:02 - Climbing styles 20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster 24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out 27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing? 29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o 31:40 - Being a taller climber 32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms 38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella 39:47 - Season expectations? 42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture? 46:45 - Outdoor Climbing 47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities 50:29 - Trying to balance training with school 53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at? 55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last? 59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup? 1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups? 1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet? 1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma

    1 u 7 m
  7. Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series

    5 JAN

    Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series

    This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well. Guest links: PCL Website PCL Instagram Charlie’s Instagram Reference links: Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story) Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:13 - PCL test event 3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background 6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League? 11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition 15:21 - YOU may be able to compete! 19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league 24:25 - Why PCL was started 29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format? 34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format? 40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp? 44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league 47:08 - Most expensive part 53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like? 1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting 1:05:08 - What does success look like? 1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations? 1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most? 1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp? 1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!

    1 u 19 m
  8. Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL

    01-12-2025

    Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL

    Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present. Guest links: Declan’s Instagram Zoe’s Instagram Reference links: Fukuoka Competition Playlist Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Starting climbing and competing 4:48 - Strength training BAD?! 10:18 - Japan traveling 11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process 14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs 18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp 20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates 23:51 - Team competition strategies 28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days 31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream 33:15 - The stress of youth competitions 35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable 40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference 44:37 - Future climbing + education goals 49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego 54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event? 58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training? 1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers" 1:03:08 - Outdoor goals 1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring 1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds! 1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

    1 u 10 m
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A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

Informatie

  • Maker
    Jinni Xia
  • Jaren actief
    2023 - 2026
  • Afleveringen
    59
  • Beoordeling
    Veilig
  • Copyright
    © Jinni Xia 2023
  • Website van aflevering
    That's Not Real Climbing

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